albert

Hi Glenn, great work.

Fantastic,very clean work,wonderful ship model.

Hi Glenn, great work.

Hello all,
Thank you for comments and likes.
 
Here is another update on my Victory.
Alexandru

Hi Glenn, great work.

Fantastic,very clean work,wonderful ship model.

Hi Glenn, great work.

Hello,
here it continues with a brief update.
The attachment of the gunwales are preceded by the marking.

 

Fantastic,very clean work,wonderful ship model.

Hi Giampiero, beautiful work.

Hi Glenn, great work.

Fantastic,very clean work,wonderful ship model.

Small update: I built the cleats in horns, the lower mizzen mast and the first of the quarter-deck railing to the right of the hatch
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 
 

 

 

 
 
All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.
 
1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.
 
4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.
 
6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  
 
7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start on the winch!!!

Thank you very much!!!
 
I have started on the pumps today.
 
Basically I started with a 3/16" square and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert it to an octagon.   You can see how I carefully marked the blank and then filed the piece to shape.   The end was drilled out afterwards.
 

 
I also laser cut the handle from 1/64" thick boxwood.  The handle bracket was made from 3/32" thick stock.   The bracket was tapered where it attaches to the pump tube.  Then it was notched out with a fine file to make it look like a fork.  The handle will fit into this.  But first I must paint the pieces and then assemble them.  Maybe tomorrow.
 
Chuck

More progress.  I finished the planking around the port side gun ports.  I've done the preliminary sanding, and also the fairing of the top where the cap rail will go.
 

 

 

 
Erik

This week I finally got back to the boilers.  We only have a handful of pieces for the boiler so the appearance is a little generic.  I decided to go with a wood for that will be sheathed with brass and blackened.  Unfortunately, I didn't get many photos this week so I wasn't able to show all the steps I wanted.
 
 
Milling the boiler tubes.  The capacity of the TAIG mill prevented me from milling all tubes at once so I had to mill them in pairs.

 
First pair off the mill.  I tried to mill these with a 10 percent stepover but only got through half of it in 3 hours.  I switched over to 25 percent and you can see the difference about halfway through the part.  The previous photo is being milled at 25 percent and you can see the rough finnish.

 
Handful of pieces from the feedwater system.  The top flange on the standpipe supported the boiler tube and the arched webbing on the crosspiece supported the boiler sheathing.

 
Experimenting with the location of thefront of the boilers and the standpipes.

 
 
 The jig i used to crossdrill the standpipes.

 

 
Standpipes with bases added.  I still need to add the rest of the flanges and the webbing in between.

 
Boiler ready to be sheathed.

 

 
 
 

I see that it has been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Here are some current photos. David Antscherl (of Greenwich barge fame) and I are currently working with SeaWatch books on a book featuring her construction in both plank on frame and plank on bulkhead versions. She's a sweet little vessel and will be fully rigged. At 1:48 scale she won't take up a lot of space in my study.
 
The fore platform with the boatswain's cabin and sail room. There is a properly tagged and stowed sail on the lower sail rack but it is no longer visible.
 

 
The well sitting beneath the main mast partner with it's two octagonal pump openings. there is a small cleanout door at the bottom of the well.
 

 
I made a jig to shape the round-ups of the various deck elements. Basically, I have connected several properly shaped deck beams (laser cut by Chuck) with planks on the convex and concave surfaces. I then affixed 150 grit garnet paper with rubber cement. Adding the round-up is then a simple matter of moving the piece up and down the paper. i use a small plank to keep the pull straight. You know when you are done as the dust spreads entirely across the paper above and below and the bottom of your thumb is raw.
 

 
The upper deck back to the aft platform has been framed. It is a fairly tedious job adding each new beam with it's lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, ledges and bolts. Depending on the amount of deck planking one plans to add, some of these elements could be omitted. I plan on adding very little deck planking so most of it will be visible.
 

 
In the final photo, the capstan upper and lower partners have been added. Speedwell's capstan is a bit curious as it is designed to be raised and lowered. It seats on a removable spindle cup on the lower partner. Neither David and I have any idea why it was designed this way.
 

 
That's it for now. Next will be the framing of the aft platform and quarterdeck.
 
 
 
 

Part 13 – Installing the Frames – cont’d
 
My last post was last Sunday, and I was pleased with the progress so far.  Well, I guess I spoke too soon – on Monday evening I had a medical issue that took me out of the shop for most of the week.  I’m back at work on Dunbrody now, and have made some more progress.
 
By Monday I had 13 frames installed.  I noticed that the last frame to be installed was slightly narrower on top, so I needed to come up with a way to spread out the tops.  After glueing in the filler blocks behind this frame, I then used a couple of long clamps to align it with the frame preceding it.
 
                        
 
I was surprised by the lack of alignment, since I’ve been using the pin indexing approach.  After trying to determine why the top was not correct, I think the answer lies in the scarf joints being too tight at the point where the top timber will want to pivot.  The clamping mentioned above appears to have corrected the problem, and from now on I’ll be making sure all the joints are properly fit before glueing.
 
Here’s the current state of the build:
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
I’m trying to make sure I have enough frames lofted so that the building activity isn’t slowed.  I have another frame almost ready for installation, two more in the construction phases, and 4 frames lofted.  It’s probably time to start planning how to secure the frames via ribbands, so that will likely be the subject of a post in the next few days. 
 
Thanks everyone!

Hello,
many thanks to Jose and Karl
for the kind posts,
and to all the others for many Likes.

So it goes on:

 

Thank you all, I´m proud you got this flattering impression, but in fact the guys from the late 18th century were simply better and by far more experienced !
 
Well, I "choose the lesser of the two weevils"...  :-)
 
By the way, in the german translation of this famous dialog, they choose the term "bug/beetle" instead of "weevil". Believe it or not, a "pretty/cute beetle" is in german the equivalent of a nice girl.
 
So Jack Aubrey says: Didn´t you know, in the navy we allways choose the prettier beetle...
 
"Wifes and mistresses, may they never meet!"
 

Great beautiful work.

I graduated align the body halves. Now I will deal with the limbs - the bow and stern.            

A little update concerning the progress in rigging HMS Surprise.
 

 
It was a surprise for me how time consuming the detailing of each and every sail turned out...
 

 
...and there are quite a few very specialized objects to create. In scale 1:48 you see allmost everything.
 

 

yes sorry the 1779 model.
 
I am thinking i might cut the project down to just a cross section for now.. here are two frames under construction