Bill Hudson
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Posts posted by Bill Hudson
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Back in the world again.
Back on the mini cutter. The clamps I was using to clamp on the keel to hold the boat while I was working on it were causing damage to the keel wood. I drilled the keel to accept two heavy wires to use as standoffs. I will probably keep them on the boat to mount it to a simple stand. I have spread a coat of white primer. Tomorrow I milk sand it out, repair the flaws and apply a second coat. I'n not sure what color I will paint the main hull. Black seems too blah. I think I read somewhere blue was used for hull colors. Maybe I will use a very dark blue.
- Tony Hunt, GrandpaPhil and mtaylor
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Would be awesome people to work with.
- ferretmary1 and mtaylor
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A break away from the ship momently. Trying to airbrush has been a problem. Only had a very noisy compressor out in the garage. It is not at all compatible in my little shop off the dining room. I looked on the internet and found several about 4"x4"I was reluctant to order from the unknown source but discovered a similar on in the Micro-Mark catalog that is rated at 25psi. . I ordered it but the hose connections do not fit my Passche airbrush. I contacted the MM tech department and got Dave. He sent me an adapter free of charge which works. Has a nice flow of air although I haven't tried any paint through it.
- mtaylor, Tony Hunt, GrandpaPhil and 1 other
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I decided it would be bestt to remove the bad gunnel and bend a new one.
- mtaylor, GrandpaPhil, ccoyle and 3 others
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- GrandpaPhil, John Fox III and mtaylor
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Still at it. Progress slow yet. This time I added walnut gunnel trim. Nothing like photos to show the screwups. Eventually it will clean up nicely. Looking ahead; what do I do for blocks? I have not calculated it out but at best guess 1/16" diameter on average. Same for cannon balls. Probably next stepwise to primer the hull to protect it from damage.
Bill
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- John Fox III and GrandpaPhil
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Still going. Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions for hull and painting. Despite the setbacks of age and tremors I have decided not to give up just because my work now is not any near what it used to be. Ths model keeps my active an d helps me mentally.
I have built a hatch. I used fine strips painted black on sides as I would for decking. Nothing like photograph to shoe you al the flaws however I think that once i finish with ll the deck furniture I can give it final primer and fine sanding.
Thank you ll for your indulgence and good feed back.
Bill
- GrandpaPhil, wefalck, ccoyle and 2 others
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Thanks Phil, No gun ports just one swivel gun in center of deck. Will probably do black hull, white gun'l. Not sure what for copper. I may be able to find some copper leaf.
Bill
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I turned 92 last month and My hands are quite shaky but I have not given up, it is still on my workbench. I have done some minor work recently. Am fitting the rudder next. Question: would the cutter have copper on hull back then? What might have been an upper hull color?
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Bob I agree with you about being awkward to hold and operate. Best I can tell is that you would need to hold the brush at 45º or so sideways in your hand to put the finger in a position to operate the trigger. Sorry about your peripheral neuropathy. I have been fighting that for many years and at times I have thought of using it as an excuse to quit modeling. But modeling is so much a part of me that I can't give it up even though I am now pushing 92 years of age. Hang in there and keep your mind on the project rather the pain. You can do it. As for the self contained airbrush I can not see ant advantage. I do not have room in my tiny studio for a noisy compressor and air brush but there are some very small compressors for limited use time. Presently I am using CO2. Not the best environmentally.
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Still very slow progress. Eventually the cabin will be let into the deck.
- ccoyle, wefalck, John Fox III and 5 others
- 8
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- mtaylor, John Fox III, GrandpaPhil and 5 others
- 8
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If it is or contains lead, after time it will darken. Pewter will also darken over time but will still be some what silver-gray in color.
- mtaylor, Canute and thibaultron
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On 4/5/2023 at 12:52 PM, bob66home said:
Lead is no longer legal. When I was casting metal O scale kits the metal at that time did contain lead. When I saw the writing on the wall I changed to Pewter. It is a little stiffer but still bendable. I would suggest using support while bending it like bending over a round object. If it is zinc, as some one suggested, it can still be bent this little bit. I doubt it is zinc. That is a whole different casting method and more expensive than Pewter.
- mtaylor and thibaultron
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How many here use dust masks while sanding and respirators when paint spraying?
Bill Hudson
- East Ender and mtaylor
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Thanks Denis,
This ship model is just a fun project to bide some time. I am using any kind of scrap from my bin that will work. Although am using traditional methods for building a sandwich hull, nothing unique.
Before you start whacking away at a chunk of wood I suggest you do some research on carving a solid wood hull. Also use an easy carving wood. Several of Blue Jacket kits (several builds posted here) are solid wood hulls. They come simi preformed and you will have do the finish carving. I suggest that would be a good place for you to start.
Revenue Cutter 1829 by Bill Hudson - miniature
in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Posted
I am thinking blue with white below the water line. I like the look of copper but I'm not sure if copper was used back then. Quite possibly lead (pewter) though. Lead would oxidize to off white or light gray; still in the thinking box with colors. I feel I need to have the hull painted before I go to above the deck work.