jud

Thanks Chris.
 
Thanks Steve I am impressed with the quality of your build. I'm not sure about the CC kit companion either but I wanted to build it. Yes those iron bars don't make a lot of sense for their time as iron wasn't as strong as it is today and it would have been a lot of weight. As a compromise I've painted the brass surround walnut to represent the bars as black strapping in a wood frame but I havn't posted any pics of these yet. But I agree it could have been the same as the replica with a wood grating. From the deck draught it looks as if it slightly tapers towards it's aft as the deck rises. The only thing that I can think might cause this is a roof that has a level ridge line fitted directly to an angled deck. What do you make of the taper? Maybe another discussion topic so we can colate information?
 
Regarding the fore tack bumpkins. I mentioned in an earlier post that I have a working theory based on a scetch from the time and think they should be positioned closer to the bowsprit at around 36 deg from centre leaving room for the seats of easement whilst clearing the cathead tackle. In this position I think they can also be shortened but I won't be up to finalizing that until after the false rail is fitted.
 
Thanks Paul for the heads up about those pumps. I might try and hold off glueing them in position for as long as possible so I can move them out of the way for rigging.

Small update: Pumps and skylight or companion as it's called in the 1768 draught.
 
After several attempts with the kit pump I managed to file it down to a shape I can live with. I used a slightly larger dowl than the kit instructions so I could file it octagonally. I also filed the metal pieces into what I think is a closer shape to the photos I have researched. But I couldn't live with the kit handles so bashed some out of a nice length of 2x2mm walnut which I already had on hand.
 
With the the companion/skylight and quarterdeck hatch I had a moment of madness with the pigmented stain and surprised myself with the result. 
 
The companion windows next I tried different colours but settled on white. So after painting I removed them from the spru and filed them to fit snuggly into the roof. For the glass I ca glued them to a sheet of clear film I bought from the stationers. When it had dried cut them off around the frames using a new blade. After a slight filing I dry fitted them and touched up the white.
 
As part of the process of choosing the colour for the companion window frames I dry fitted two of the great cabin stern window frames which already I'd decided to paint yellow ochre. 
 
Now I'm completing the hatches and bashing hatch covers as it makes sense to finish the deck furniture before I finish the deck while I'm constantly dry fitting stuff incase I make any mistakes or have any accidents.

You need something to tie your horse up with.
jud

You need something to tie your horse up with.
jud

If you consider that each rope on a ship is either being hauled on or slacked off to accomplish some task you will quickly see that there needs to be some length on the hauling end of the rope that will need to be coiled on the belaying pin.
 
Take for example a halyard.  With the yard in the lowered position the blocks for the halyard tackle are at their farthest apart.  There is a certain amount of rope that makes up this tackle.  As the yard is hoisted by hauling on the tackle fall these blocks get closer together and all of that rope that used to be in between the blocks is now in your hands at the working end.  That is the rope that must be coiled and hung on the belaying pin.
 
All of the lines on the ship function this way.  So, there will almost always be a coil of line to be found at the working end.
 
Regards,

You need something to tie your horse up with.
jud

Good candidate for using your bondo corrected and cleaned up part to create a rubber mold, then a wax model. Might be able to take your wax model to your local Community College Art Dept and have a lost wax copy made. Your wax model and it's copy will be a true copy of every flaw and finish you allow. You can do it at home with low melting alloys, but using an art department with kilns that will handle brass you can upgrade from a Babbitt alloy.
jud

Frank. First thank you. I am not sure however that these beams will hold much weight. I have not tested them yet because they are on the jig but they aren't oak beams - they are styrene. There is a lot of play to the structure. That is why I am sure I will have to add stanchions under them. I will be trying to divert any structures requiring support (such as fife rails with rigging) to the under section and gun deck. I have no idea if this will work yet but am hopeful.
 
Dave

Thank you Mark! your input is always invaluable to me. Not to mention everyone else. Oh btw, links to more places to get lost in the details for one with significant OCD is not very helpful, lol!!!
 
Thank you Don and Frank!
 
Grant, appreciate all the help in spending my money, lol!
 
Update; We had to drop an extra $1,800.00 into the shop floor structure to support the equipment coming. So the mill/lathe combo will have to wait til the June billing cycle.
 
Ironically, with that sais, the Byrne's table saw arrived today along with the Grizzly 12" Extreme 5 hp, 220v cabinet saw. kinda the long and short of it! I'll post a pic of the two together..should be fun!
 
 
Bill

Richard,
 
I'm not sure what the P/N on mine is... but here's a link to a review I did:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/256-micromark-micromill-review/
 
It's not an upgrade as such but more of a backyard mechanic kludge.   I took off both pulleys and re-machined them on the lathe such that they fit on the opposite shafts from original.   I hope that makes sense.  If I get some time, I'll pop off the pulley cover and take a picture.

In other news: with the foredeck fully exposed I bought some 1/96 coal for the camboose and grass/hay for the manger from Hobbytown today. Now I can start to look for a way of making these. (I almost bought the 1/96 hogs but wasn't sure about what animals they actually kept in there.)
 
Now, how do you glue down coal lumps at this level? They are like grains of sand. I do have a friend who is into model railroading and I bet he knows all about it - can't wait to ask.
 
I also bought a 3v red LED and am going to try to replicate Modeler12's methods. So let the experiments begin...

I have a broken plastic sign holder from the office that is not being used. It has the right curvature for the beam camber. I did a couple tests with different glues (styrene) and unfortunately the Evergreen plastic stuck to the plastic sign as well. So instead I added a Ziplock bag 1 ply thick and stretched it with Duck Tape. No sticking this time. It was initially set up in a convex style configuration...
 

 
 
... but I quickly realized the beams would not be flat to the deck in this configuration so I reversed it to  concave. I have to keep the plastic down with weights and clamps as they are glued but so far so good.
 
 

Suspect the Turner drawings are showing rain gutters. There to prevent any rain water from freely running off in sheets, drenching the helmsman along with the drenching of anyone needing to pass under that deck edge.
jud 

Bill,
 
A mill's feeds and speeds are to a large extent governed by the material you are working on. Maybe this calculator can give you some insight.
 
Lou

Thanks Ron.
 
After successfully bashing a pair of replacement windlass standards from the sheet that the originals came from I thought I might post some progress photo's of where I'm at rather than wait until the deck furniture and deck are finished. Everything is pinned and dry fitted to the deck and uncompleted at this stage.
 
The pencil lines crossing the deck are marking the beam centres for when I ink in the butts and trunnels. 
 
Most of these photo's refer back to my previous post #77. The main hatch on the right is my first attempt from following the kit and so is too small. The new hatch on the left is closer to scale at 9x7'.
 
I've also included my bashed 'Tiller Sweep Support', from the discussion that can be found here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13109-hmb-endeavour-tiller-and-steering-question/page-6%C2%A0 which I've briefly mentioned in post #66 of this log but to recap based upon the navy deck draught of 1771, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery part 1 Steering, section 2 Tiller and Whipstaff and the physics that we worked out. Unfortunately I've had no answer to the replica tiller. I'm not an engineer so could be wrong but we worked out that the physics of a projecting 19 foot tiller unsupported made from 9x9" to 7x7" solid oak including 3 foot of solid iron tip would generate around 2 ton of cantilever pressure while at rest in the rudder head. It would blow apart if unsupported! Therefore we suspect that the replica tiller is made from modern lighter and stronger material so unless new information comes to light I can't use it as a historical reference. For these reasons and again unless new information comes to light the tiller sweep support is assumed to have been fitted along with the tiller that we can confirm was in the 1768 navy draughts.
 
The tiller sweep support is made so I can do a refit should our findings be proven incorrect. How it is made is by soaking and then glue laminating two lengths of 4x1mm walnut together around a container which had the correct diameter. Then I shaped it to the deck camber and then realized it needed to follow the vertical arc of the tiller. Then I filled scuppers under it and fretted some 0.5 brass into it's face to mark the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full rudder positions. On it's upper surface I glued some black card to represent a metal runner and decided on painting it black because it would have been greased. On the underside of the tiller is a small block that rides on the runner. I've added stops which made sense to minimize damage should the tackle break.
 
Post script: For the wheel drum the kit uses a 6mm dowel which is smaller than scale so I've used and 8mm dowel sanded down to 7.5 mm with thinly sliced 10mm dowel on the ends.  It has a capped removable pin which I'm still refining and turns. The capstan I've used card to make some rings.  The pawls are made out of wood and brass.

Anhydrous Ammonia is stored under pressure because it is gaseous at atmospheric pressure, containers may burst, but by itself will not explode. Years ago Aqua Ammonia was used for fertilizer and other things, went out of favor for farm use because of the mass. The last Ammonia I bought was in a liquid form, not under pressure and came in gallon plastic jugs, 4 to a case which was the minimum you could purchase and have shipped as hazardous material, that freight cost about 5 times more than the case of ammonia did. Needed it as a developer for my blue print machine, still have 2 unopened jugs left. Ammonia regardless of form is not an explosive or fire hazard but it can hurt or kill you if precautions are not taken, it displaces air and will form a cloud that burns your eyes and leaves you with no air to breath, the Aqua you can just move away from unless a lot is atomized quickly, the Anhydrous, being under pressure until released can burn you, 'actually frost bite', burn your lungs and eyes as well as displace your air. Every applicator I have been around is equipped with an emergency water eye rinse. Have used ag applicators to inject a lot of it into the soil as fertilizer, turns into nitrogen in the soil which can be made to explode in some forms but not in the soil as used for fertilizer. Those machines have a lanyard and valve used to pre-charge the system so skips aren't made when first starting from a stop, if not careful using it, you quickly learn about overdoing it as well as to keep the machine down wind if you can. If you need a small bit of ammonia, might try peeing on your board.
jud

Anhydrous Ammonia is stored under pressure because it is gaseous at atmospheric pressure, containers may burst, but by itself will not explode. Years ago Aqua Ammonia was used for fertilizer and other things, went out of favor for farm use because of the mass. The last Ammonia I bought was in a liquid form, not under pressure and came in gallon plastic jugs, 4 to a case which was the minimum you could purchase and have shipped as hazardous material, that freight cost about 5 times more than the case of ammonia did. Needed it as a developer for my blue print machine, still have 2 unopened jugs left. Ammonia regardless of form is not an explosive or fire hazard but it can hurt or kill you if precautions are not taken, it displaces air and will form a cloud that burns your eyes and leaves you with no air to breath, the Aqua you can just move away from unless a lot is atomized quickly, the Anhydrous, being under pressure until released can burn you, 'actually frost bite', burn your lungs and eyes as well as displace your air. Every applicator I have been around is equipped with an emergency water eye rinse. Have used ag applicators to inject a lot of it into the soil as fertilizer, turns into nitrogen in the soil which can be made to explode in some forms but not in the soil as used for fertilizer. Those machines have a lanyard and valve used to pre-charge the system so skips aren't made when first starting from a stop, if not careful using it, you quickly learn about overdoing it as well as to keep the machine down wind if you can. If you need a small bit of ammonia, might try peeing on your board.
jud

Anhydrous Ammonia is stored under pressure because it is gaseous at atmospheric pressure, containers may burst, but by itself will not explode. Years ago Aqua Ammonia was used for fertilizer and other things, went out of favor for farm use because of the mass. The last Ammonia I bought was in a liquid form, not under pressure and came in gallon plastic jugs, 4 to a case which was the minimum you could purchase and have shipped as hazardous material, that freight cost about 5 times more than the case of ammonia did. Needed it as a developer for my blue print machine, still have 2 unopened jugs left. Ammonia regardless of form is not an explosive or fire hazard but it can hurt or kill you if precautions are not taken, it displaces air and will form a cloud that burns your eyes and leaves you with no air to breath, the Aqua you can just move away from unless a lot is atomized quickly, the Anhydrous, being under pressure until released can burn you, 'actually frost bite', burn your lungs and eyes as well as displace your air. Every applicator I have been around is equipped with an emergency water eye rinse. Have used ag applicators to inject a lot of it into the soil as fertilizer, turns into nitrogen in the soil which can be made to explode in some forms but not in the soil as used for fertilizer. Those machines have a lanyard and valve used to pre-charge the system so skips aren't made when first starting from a stop, if not careful using it, you quickly learn about overdoing it as well as to keep the machine down wind if you can. If you need a small bit of ammonia, might try peeing on your board.
jud

I think what you need is a surfactant to make the water wetter so it penetrates more deeply into the wood (xylem cells). I use a common household product call "clean shower" as a 1:10 solution dissolved in distilled water.

Further to Druxey's post, the Swan Class ships in David Antscherl's series date 1767 to 1780, closer to the 1788 Shipbuilder's Repository than the 1805 Steel Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture.   There are many differences in the two sets of scantlings including the size and number of bolts in various locations on the various size vessels.
 
Allan

Would be careful with cardboard, it's a paper product and will absorb fluids. Don't know what your finish is, but if it is not cured dry, there is a risk that the cardboard will draw enough of it to self glue itself to your model. Perhaps a wax coating or paint sealer on the cardboard might be good insurance.
jud

Would be careful with cardboard, it's a paper product and will absorb fluids. Don't know what your finish is, but if it is not cured dry, there is a risk that the cardboard will draw enough of it to self glue itself to your model. Perhaps a wax coating or paint sealer on the cardboard might be good insurance.
jud

The cardboard (actually it's chip board) has been on and off the deck for months with no issue 
 
Just for reference....the finish is Teak Oil (cured for quite some time).
 
Thanks for the reply

I used a simple method for the boats made from 1" X 4" lumber and a saw. Required a Horse Trough, some stones and a careful stacking of those stones onto the deck of my boat, when it dumped them I knew the limit. A very reliable method unless I introduced some wave action and lost my cargo. Needed to  spend some time retrieving stones from the bottom of the trough, for butt protection.
jud

I think the answer to the question about all that rigging for hauling boats, cargo, provisions, guns, etc. is "depends".   Not a solid answer but there's variables such as type of ship, country of ship, and even the Captain and  the Master have input.  
 
I've seen some where the line is left run through the blocks and then both ends are coiled and belayed.  The free hanging block has a hook and is set to an eyebolt.  Others, just pull the lines and blocks and not worry about it.  The pendents are usually fixed. I suspect they were coiled on the stay or yard they were attached to.  But again, I've seen where they ran a line through, put a stopper knot and belay the bitter end.  
 
If you can, look for James Lee's book on Masting and Rigging of the English Man of War.  It's very thorough.