Mike Y

The bench really ties the room together Very realistic and human-like! And a neat description of the dependency chain in the beginning of the post

Pillar production continues. Tenons are milled on one side first and then hand trimmed in places where keelson is at an angle Marking up pillar locations on the keelson is a bit tricky. First I tried to make a plumb bob, but it's not easy on that scale, can't make it heavy enough to stretch the line consistently. So instead I use a carefully aligned gantry to find a vertical line along the side of the beam. A familiar jig has notches to offset the mortise from the side of the beam, and by flipping the gantry around I make sure it is symmetrical. As always, it gets tricky around the edges Now I can cut pillars to final length. Measuring with a caliper and then subtracting the beam thickness ended up unreliable where the keelson is angled, so I made that jig instead. A groove helps with keeping it straight and adds a bit of necessary friction. Once positioned in the mortises - gently press on the beam to compress it to fit. Measure it with a caliper and scribe a line on the pillar, easy Trimming each pillar to final size took a while. I did not dare to mill it directly to the line, so every pillar was slightly oversize (0.3-0.5mm), with hand chiseling and a lot of dry fits. Pink Ivory is very hard to trim with a chisel, takes a lot of force sometimes, and can split on you if you are not careful. Got a pretty deep finger cut when trimming these pillars, luckily avoided getting blood on the model But my chisel safety definitely improved afterwards! But it is a very satisfying feeling when finally the pillar sits just right - the beam is not rocking side to side, but also has zero vertical bend no matter how much weight you put on it. I was surprised how flexible the beams are, even if made of boxwood 4.2mm thick! The Admiralty ordered a load test to ensure the correct installation of such a critical element. Test passed with flying colours! 😎 Final result, all the beams are dry fit in their final positions and dimensions. Careful markup and fine tuning paid off - good alignment in both dimensions, no gaps, I am happy! Now I can take time making them pretty - add chamfers, sand and finish. It is a bit of a puzzle how to install them later on. I am planning on gluing them only to the keelson, even before the deck is installed. I hope that pillar tenons would poke right into the beam mortises with ease, I chamfered the edges to simplify it. Keeping them off the model for too long will be risky, I want to use them as height limits when gluing in the carlings that might affect the deck curvature. For now I am too scared to glue anything really, the pile of "completed, but not yet installed" parts just keeps growing

Thanks for the full description, Alan! Now it all makes sense, will try your method too!

Alan, I never had any splits with notches for the aft platform, but it was done in pear, maybe boxwood is more prone to it. But it was just me pushing too much I actually enjoy the process of cutting notches! Filing a chamfer sounds more error-prone in some sense, pieces sliding around in a glue instead of being firmly fixed in the notch. Meanwhile I started drafting the lower deck layout. Will build the deck in parallel with the shot locker and other items in the hold. Am I making some obvious mistake? Please ignore the "fore mast is too far forward", it is intentional and a part of the changes that were done by the British. The plans have not indicated any shift in the beam positions, so I am showing like it was done "cheap and easy" way, by just moving the mast two feet forward until it almost hits the next beam. The locations of hatches/gratings, masts and ladder opening are from the plan. Carling and beam arms locations are improvised based on the TFFM.

Speaking of wood imperfections - I was visiting the Naval Museum in Karlskrona (the naval base city in the South of Sweden). It had a fascinating bit of naval archeology on display - parts of the hull of an Age of Sail ships (1678 and 1717) excavated in the area. I did not realise how massive these timbers are in person! Impossible to convey on a photo, but these knees are a size of an adult human and likely heavier. The famous hull cross-section drawings look much more impressive when you can touch them... Speaking of the wood grain - note some knots and imperfections, as well as a non-ideal grain direction in the knee. Here is the deadwood - also far from the prime cut of a tree. That was the real life, a crude build reality rather than a work of art. Unfortunately knots and grain do not translate well in scale... And here is the rudder next to it: Sorry for the offtopic, just wanted to share. It's not often you get to see such structural pieces are on display, and not yet another salvaged cannon that museums like so much!

Now back to the pillars! Pink Ivory put my planing jig to the test. It is not easy to work with - burns when sawing, very prone to tearout, one must be very careful with the grain direction at all times. That made it unrealistic to plane multiple blanks in one go without messing up grain the direction. The other downside of that jig is the requirement to keep the plane straight, without rocking it side-to-side (this photo is exaggerated to illustrate the point). But in the absence of a proper thickness sander it gets the job done, cheap and silent I decided to cut real mortise and tenon joints into the pillars, mostly to help myself with the alignment. I doubt I can drill precise holes join them with a pin, and without some mechanical help to ensure alignment - gluing those together without making a crooked mess would be impossible. Mortise would allow for some adjustments in the very end - if I need to move the end of the pillar a tiny bit - I will just shave off one side of the tenon! And you can't imagine how satisfying the dry fit is, it is held nice and tight without any glue! It is hard to make such a tiny mortise deeper than 0.5mm though (due to the angle of the chisel), but it is enough to firmly register the beam in place. To help mark up the mortises I made a small styrene jig. It has a friction fit to the beam, a bit lower than the beam, and scored marks align with the centerline marked on top of the beam: On the underside a square opening is centered around these scored marks, and the chisel fits nicely in it. Not much pressure is required to mark it. But then I overestimated the strength of the beam, cracking it all the way through along the grain imperfection A clumsy builder can break even a boxwood beam! Luckily the crack is quite clean, so should be easy to glue back like it never happened.

I was trying to imagine the process of marking up the deck inside the hull. Even with carefully prepared notches in the deck clamps it's not an easy work - the downside of Hahn's method is that working deep inside the hull always feels like a surgery, working through an narrow opening on top. So I decided to make my life easier and do it off the model instead Luckily that hull has a very modest tumblehome, so getting it in and out is geometrically possible. Beams are spot glued to boxwood strips and the entire deck would be assembled on them. Later strips would be removed using some alcohol or water. It would require a bit of a cleanup, but much easier overall. It fits perfectly into all notches, very satisfying! Now I can work with it The deck has a very gentle curve along the hull, so I will take care to glue carlings and ledges on the model to avoid loosing that curve.

Unbelievable! I found Volume 1 in the wild, english version, not used, and it does not cost a fortune - but a list price of a mere $52! For comparison - the only second hand offer I found on Amazon is $1362 😳 It is on the shelf in the Marinmuseum (maritime museum) in Karlskrona. The treasure is there, among other books in the gift shop! I could not believe my eyes. On the official museum website it is listed as ”sold out”: https://www.smtm.se/om-myndigheten/forskning/publikationer/vasa-i And the shop personnel could not find the book in their computer, which made the transaction a bit complicated 😊 But you can try to contact the museum shop directly (their english is most likely very good) - you might persuade them to check the physical stock on the shelves, my picture might even help. There were at least two books there, I bought one, the other one remains, complete with plans and diagrams. If someone was hunting for it for years - do not miss the chance

Very neat trick! Sounds easier than soldering and bending it, and "wasting material" is a non-issue at this scale

It is coming together very nicely! Looks like the preparation is paying off

Really like the organic shapes of the framing! It feels like the tree is growing around the mast step, hugging it with branches A bit too much decking obscuring it, the photos in post #135 are golden!

Great repair! Interesting gantry, could you please show more of that measurement probe mechanism on top?

Modelling ”career” definitely splits on ”before and after getting your first lifting table” 😊

Next was the fitting the lower deck beams. Fairly straightforward and the alignment "jig" helped, though awkward to use (need to clamp its parts in a specific sequence, I dropped parts of the contraption into the hull many times, etc). Of course my deck clamps were not perfectly level to begin with, so some notches needed to be cut deeper than necessary to ensure a level deck. A curved Vallorbe file came in really handy to tune the depth of some notches! Once all beams were horizontal - the run of the deck was already quite fair, with only a minor adjustments to be done for a couple of beams. I was worried it would be a never ending process of alignment (fixing one dimension just to re-align the other), but it was not that bad. End result. Note the tiny gaps on the right side, I do not want beams to push into the frames on both ends to prevent any buckling or tilting due to the seasonal wood movement. The gap would be hidden by the inner planking on the right side, while allowing the hull to "breathe" a bit. My mind got carried away with plans for the deck structure, all the carlings and ledges, thinking how I would approach the construction. Marking up in situ? Making some paper template? Add temporary spacers to lift the deck in one "piece"? Use some rubber bands to firmly fix beams in position without drilling pin holes? Oh, right, that comes much later, I only did them to install pillars... I then remarked the true centerline using a string and placed these two test pillars under a beam. To my horror the beams standing on the keelson looked clearly off-center! The centerline string was already removed by that point, so I pulled two strings for a quick illustration. After careful checks the reason was found - the keelson is not perfectly level and is glued slightly tilted, resulting in a skewed pillar if you just place it on top. No big deal, can be easily compensated for. Luckily there is no issue with an off-center keelson or an incorrect hull shape. Always a bit scared of finding some critical mistake done 10 years ago... 🫣

I use a very thick black fishing monofilament for the bolts (designed to catch alligators and giant squids, I guess). No problems with any chemicals bleeding into the wood, etc. It is held inside the wood with CA glue and sands nicely to be flush.

It's been 1.5 months of "aging" the Pink Ivory sample - the plank was laying on one specific side in a sunlight on my table, but not in an extreme way, sun hits it at an angle. As expected, it got darker, almost like a fresh vs aged red brick Coincidentally I bought that piece of Ivory because of the build log where brick oven was made out of pink ivory "bricks": https://modelshipworld.com/topic/11140-washington-galley-by-yamsterman-148-scale-pof/?do=findComment&comment=436782 To simplify the comparison I split it in half, the difference is clear (on the second photo both halves are flipped). No sanding to avoid damaging the "patina" layer, so sorry for some stains or fingerprints. Text says "shadow" and "exposed", but you can easily guess which one is which Both pillars were also in a direct sunlight, and looks like the one with Osmo finish aged tiny little bit less. Even when aged they look quite fine, and I think I'll go with it instead of a pear / box / ebony that are the usual candidates The texture is interesting - it has some grain, but not extreme like a walnut. It looks rougher when surrounded by the pear/box hull, but not too extreme or out of scale, even on close-up photos: (I know that this is not how pillars are attached to the beams, these are just test pieces freestanding on the keelson)

I love your building jig! Looks like a loom from some angles

Now that is "painting with wood" taken literally, well executed!

Such a beautiful scale! Very charming model.

As always strongly recommend to buy an electrical lifting table, they are quite affordable nowadays with many companies on the market (including IKEA that sells frames separately). Replace a flimsy office tabletop with a sturdy solid wooden one - and you will end up with a fantastic build table that allows you to find a perfect height for any operation. I added an inset vise and peg holes into mine, the possibilities are endless. It is a relatively new "accessory" that is often overlooked, well worth the cost. I would avoid hammering mortise joint with a chisel on such a table, so it is not a full replacement for a workbench if you do a normal woodworking. But more than sturdy for all the modelling needs. Some examples of my setup (IKEA table frame, solid top cut to size of the working area, Veritas inset vise), very easy to customize it for your space.

Glad to see your new build, subscribed with interest

Thanks Druxey and Alan! Sometimes a little nudge is all we need Toni, it feels similar to pear or box when it comes to hardness, definitely not soft. Holds an edge pretty well, but despite a clean geometrical shape the edge blurs visually due to the grain of the wood. But definitely an interesting wood to have in your palette. Will report in a couple of months on the way it ages!

Experimenting with different woods for the Pillars in the Hold. Thought it might be a good opportunity to use Pink Ivory that I had in the stash for some reason. It is a very beautiful wood with pink shavings, indeed! A simple jig really helps to hold these tiny pieces when shaping. Scraping is a great way to get a smooth surface with a clean edge! Completed test pieces. The one with a tenon was finished with Osmo Polyx and the one on the left (with no tenon) has no finish. For colour comparison I made a photo on top of some pear parts (one finished and one - a rough sheet cutoff) Pink Ivory has a clearly pronounced grain resembling walnut, clearly out of scale. Though pillars in the hold definitely have a rough life I might still go with it, it might add an interesting accent deep in inside the hull when viewed from the side: As most of such woods it would likely loose its beautiful colour when exposed to UV, and would likely become brown-ish. I left these test pieces exposed on the table and will check them in a couple of months. Does anyone have any experience with this wood? What do think on the colour? I don't want my model to look like a clown car, but a bit of variety might not hurt

Tools update time! A friend printed some vacuum adapters for me The one for the planer works like a charm! Using the model from Oliver (see https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36705-suction-adapter-for-the-proxxon-dh40-for-download) Table saw received an update as well, the factory design is squeezing all the air through a narrow opening, generating a whistling noise louder than the actual saw. Now the opening is opened up, so the air can flow freely with a nice wind noise Link to the model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742157 Since I was short on space - decided to make the adapter removable, on magnets. To improve the connection a groove should be machined. It was impossible to clamp that soft plastic part on the lathe, it was just sliding out of the chuck So I milled it on the rotary table. A single flute mill makes a dramatic difference - the dual flute quickly jams with a blob of melted plastic, while a single flute cuts clear separated chips (that are light, fly all over the place and get stuck to everything, argh). The resulting performance is not as great as on the planer, some dust still escapes, but it is still a great improvement comparing to the default adapter. Can absolutely recommend both upgrades, especially the planer!

This definitely looks repairable (replacing only these particular frames), Isopropyl Alcohol is a common solution - it dissolves the glue and then evaporates without leaving a trace, allowing you to replace the parts without going for a full rebuild! Hope to see you back in this log after a well deserved break 😊