Jump to content

Mike Y

Members
  • Posts

    1,432
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Remco, thanks for sharing your situation, and truly hope it would be back on track soon! The journey of the Kingfisher would continue one day, I believe! Someday when it's done I hope to see it again, regardless of the location (it's worth a roadtrip!) Merry Christmas, and let's hope that this curveball is a beginning of something new, something great! 💪
  2. It's so nice to realise that we inspired some to start building with their kids Hopefully there would be more! Will try to share all my observations, maybe it would be useful. Of course, everything is different, and I only have one child to compare. The modelling sessions were around 20-30 min at the age of 6. There was no expectation of a quick result, but more of "I want to do the same thing my dad is doing", plus a natural interest in doing something crafty. Each finished phase was treated as a semi-finished thing you can play with. I remember same when I was a kid - finished model was as exciting as an unfinished one, so do not stress too much about it. It is unlikely to be finished unless you can do it many times per week. Expect some deviations from the plan, this is normal and increases the interest. For example, my daughter likes to build things from small scrap pieces left over from my build, by gluing them together and to a piece of paper. The starting skills are non-existing, every technique needs to be explained with some practice and help. How to hold a file? Sanding? Gluing? Cutting? Every single operation is new, account for that when planning a build. Prepare every session, so you have parts at hand, tools ready, etc. Each method and skill is introduced the following way: show it first, explain how it works. Let the kid practice on some scrap, first holding hand, then letting go and allow to make some mistakes. Do not start with safety precautions, introduce them gently where necessary. Dremel is quite kid friendly, by the way (if you do not use cutoff wheels and such). One of the hardest skills is keeping a consistent angle / plane when using a tool, as well as consistent pressure. Steady hand when using a file, for example. Still struggle with that a little bit, so do not have a very high demands on filing quality. Sanding is tedious, plus a pressure level is different. Split the time evenly, so kid feels that the contributions is fair. But just because of skill and pressure, your sanding would do 70% of the job. The other person holds a vacuum hose, which also counts as help. Let the child help, find some "busywork" in a delicate situations. For example, some of the planks in our kit are a very thin and delicate veneer, which breaks easily. I was doing any edge shaping, but she was helping to fit, hold the light, etc etc. Safety-wise - perfect time to introduce dust protection and safety glasses, no problem with that if you both use it. Dust protection is mostly decorative, all the masks and respirators are way too big for a child face, but it's still a good habit. I used a vacuum to really catch small particles when sanding. Plastic or wood? Plastic models involve CA glue or cement, both are harder and more risky to use by a child. Also parts are smaller. Wood - larger parts, safer tools (file, sandpaper, PVA glue). Some machine tools are also fine - with some help and introduction, she learned how to use Dremel (nylon brush to clean the glue squeeze-out, sanding drump, drill), disk sander (low power, so it would stop even if you stick finger into it) and even a bandsaw (of course, all supervised). At the same time, I would not dare introducing table saw or a mill, that one is too risky. Planking is actually doable by a kid if planks are pre-shaped (laser cut). Assembling the hull (bulkheads and so on) - doable as well. The rest is up to you, probably a lot of details needs to be skipped. But even if you will end up with just a planked hull - it is already something that is nearly finished. Add a mast and few sails - imagination runs wild! Do not forget that it's all for the process - positive reinforcement, highfives and a good mood is the most important technique in the whole exercise. It helps to be a big goofy, make stupid mistakes and let a child correct you and help you - it makes them very very proud Hope you will have many enjoyable sessions with your granddaughter, that she will remember for a long time afterwards. Does not matter if she will end up with a finished model.
  3. Hoorray, another Hahn build, this time from giampieroricci! I like the transformation of a rough hull to a smooth one after fairing, very satisfying! More progress pictures, please!
  4. You need quite some rigidity when sanding, to achieve it and prevent misalignment when humidity changes - you need temporary spacers between frames anyway. Hard to imagine how that can be done with a non-temporary joints. Replacing a frame or two is doable by just dissolving PVA as described above, but getting them all in and out?
  5. Wow, that is quite an impressive weathering (not overdone) and quality of details on this scale!
  6. Great start! Hahn simplifies a lot of details in his drawings, you will find plenty of "giant pieces" that were built out of multiple pieces in reality. Just use more detailed sources if you want to build it in a more realistic way. For example, the stem is likely made out of more pieces, etc etc. They are quite visible on a model, and actually look way nicer in a detailed form, to my taste... On my model, Hahn version looks like this: Looks too crude, so I scrapped it and re-made in a bit more detailed way, based on other drawings and books. Note that this is not a full level of details, for example that triangle in the middle should have been broken down as well, etc etc. But still looks a bit better.
  7. With your quite serious and thought through approach, how are you planning to address a possible warping / shrinking / cracking in case of humidity changes?
  8. This is something else, but there is more than one "correct one". Try it, shake it, make sure it is not too flimsy, check the max height if you are tall
  9. Hi Andre, They are fairly common in modern offices, and allow to work while standing. Height is adjusted smoothly and continuously with two buttons under the table, no tools required and it takes a few seconds. It is not a fixed set of positions, you can move it like you move your car window. I move it up and down all the time, depending on the work being done. They used to be expensive, but then IKEA released a very decent version for half the price (model name BEKANT). You can buy the ready-made office table, or just a frame separately. Screw any tabletop on it and you have your custom made electrical table. It is nice to have a solid wood instead of an office fiber board, so you can add a vice and clamp things without damaging the top. They exist in different sizes, colors and even corner versions are available: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/products/?q=bekant frame stand The only downside - it is a table for light work, not a replacement for workbench, since legs have motors and screw rods embedded into them. So I would not recommend chiseling a tenon an mortise joints for your furniture projects on such table... Otherwise it is great There are a few topics on this forum where this was discussed in details, with photos, etc.
  10. Thanks, Michael! Your words mean a lot to me Getting second thoughts about some distant plans on making a 1:96 model, too fiddly indeed. At least planking at my scale is easier than with 1:24, I guess!
  11. This was an interesting part of the build, though pretty repetitive. I am glad that I took internal planking first, it would be barely visible, and a good practice before doing an external planking. One more time thanks to Chuck for showing how to edge bend. Got the hang of it, no more broken planks, and I get quite close to desired shape from first or sometimes second attempt: Got more Pfeil chisels, this time to simplify in-situ fairing. Works like a charm! Closer to deck clamps it became harder to clamp, so some awkward arrangements were used: The last streak was difficult. Even though I used tick marks, the last forward plank ended up a bit too narrow. Will be careful next time, does not worth re-doing this time. A blade is used as a wedge to press planks into each other in the areas of some gaps. More glue to soak into the gap. It is cheating, I know During the last few months I was sneaking to my modelling corner regularly (which is a challenge with a newborn), and managed to install all planks before the end of the year! Yay! I did not expect it to take this long though - with an average of 4-5 hours per streak and 14 streaks it sums up to 60-ish hours. So here is how it looks today, before treenailing / fairing / smoothing / trimming. When in display case, light coming from the bottom of the case goes through frames and makes an interesting pattern on the planks: There is plenty of dust over the model, that I will need to carefully remove after sanding. Hope to finish it in a near future and get to less repetitive parts (breast hooks, mast steps, deck structures, etc etc). But before that I need to decide on a finish to use (or maybe no finish at all), will make some test pieces and try all the sanding sealers that I bought last year. Also I got a surprising color deviation in planks, even though they are all cut from a few sheets of castello box, and sheets had no obvious discoloration. Maybe it is a side effect of heat bending, may go away after final sanding. Anyway it is not so bad, shows individual planks. A bit of deviation is good!
  12. Not for modelling purposes, but as soon as you start making small woodworking projects, or even a display case for the model...
  13. Great layout! Hope it would work great for you. I would recommend to put a disk sander closer to your working area. It is by far the most used power tool when you make small things, once you are used to it.. Like who needs a table saw for cutting planks into proper lengths, where you can just cut rough dimensions using some wire cutters or any other simple tool, and then fine fit using a disk sander? Combined with some small household vaccuum to catch airborne dust - it is handy to have it close by. P.S.: consider an electric lifting table, it is actually the most used "tool" in my shop overall
  14. Make sawdust out of the wood you use for planking, mix it generously with a pva-based wood glue that dries clear-ish (not yellow) - that would give you a custom made filler for your wood
  15. Very interesting model, hope you will make the launching cradle as well!
  16. I was fooled by these renders as well, thought they were photos! Incredible! But what was a hint is the same look & feel for side grain and end grain. Frames will definitely look different comparing to deck planks. Any plans to build this beauty in wood?
×
×
  • Create New...