Mike Y

Some more work done on the windlass and this time I've made the Carrick piece (the larger part) and the cheek.  But before I made them I wanted to make the big locking bolts that run completely through them.  To do this I first had to drill a 0.68mm hole (the smallest end mill that I have) through a 1.5mm diameter brass rod.  Here's a close up of the drilling which makes it look like I'm running a 6mm drill through a 10mm bar 😜

A bit of perspective

These were the beginning of the bolts which were then cut to size and a tapered 0.8mm pin put through and soldered in place.  I then chemically blacked them and here's the result.

I haven't taken any pictures of the making of the Carrick piece or the cheek as it's very straight forward.  I did however take one of the drilling of the holes for the bolts.  I temporarily glued the two halves together and ran the drill straight through.  This worked great and was very easy to do and once again a little IPA separated the parts.

The finished parts with the bolts in place.


Finally here are parts all dry fitted into the hull.  Nothing is glued in at the minute including the beams but it all fits quite nicely.



So thats it for a couple of weeks as I'm in for a quick surgery (nothing major) which they have told me will restrict my lifting and moving.  As soon as I'm fit I'll be back on it.
 
Cheers Mark

Pop the champagne, I'm finished with the deck planking!  While a challenging and rewarding experience, I'm happy to be finished with planking.  Like everything else with this build, planking the deck didn't quite go as planned, even with the tick marks and planks drawn out beforehand.  And as you other perfectionists out there can sympathize with, there are a bunch of things that didn't turn out the way I would have liked.  That said, I'm happy with the results, and the quality of the deck planking is in line with the rest of the build.  Which is all I can really ask for as someone being new to this wooden ship building thing.
 
After thoroughly cleaning my hobby area of sawdust, which is also my home office, I'm happy to be moving on to less dusty parts of the build!  I plan on starting Chuck's mini-kit of the windlass this weekend.
 
Erik

Thanks for the likes and the encouraging comments.  I finished more of the deck planking this week.  I did my first scarph joints on the deck.  The remaining planking will be more time consuming since it involves cutting the planks out of wood sheet.  One note on planking color.  Since I have 2 different batches of 3/16" wide wood for the main planking I used, which are both different from 7/32" wide planking I used, which is different again from the wood sheet, I decided to deliberately mix up the planks of different shades from the beginning.  The plank color would vary anyway, and this kept it varied throughout the deck, rather than having bands of different shades as I transitioned from the planking stock to sheet stock.  The photos were taken after a quick first sanding.
 
Erik
 

Välkommen!
Very refreshing genre and looking forward to following your build log!

Välkommen!
Very refreshing genre and looking forward to following your build log!

Välkommen!
Very refreshing genre and looking forward to following your build log!

Thank you for the warm welcome all!
 
I am attaching here my work in progress on the Ironclad Turenne. Not next to other models yet (I have but not good pics). I will post them in a build thread or when done a bit more, currently it is in very early stage: 
 
 
 
No, have not seen! My reference point is something like Victory built by Kostas Katseas in 1/700 and Jim Bauman as we speak is building his Bretagne in 1/700 from scratch. I am also following Marijn Van Gils build of Redoutable vs Victory in slightly bigger scale. So Im glad Im in a good company of mighty makers who are doing tall ships in tiny, plastic scale. I hope to be half as good with this project.
 
 

Hi everybody! 
 
Joining here as my passion always lied with the warships of late 19th century, but you would not know it looking at my work. Which is mostly 1:700 scale grey warships for 1900-1945 period.  I have boxed myself into quite a corner: 1:700 only, full hull only, weathered only! There is a limit to kits available with that requirement.
 
I dont do anything else, Im agnostic to submarine or a carrier (OK, Im not a big fan of carriers) and I quite like capital ships, models of ship wrecks and submarines. I love comparison modeling, where you build several ships of the same scale to get a sense of how they relate to each other. I kind of think thats my main goal, build different ships in small scale and compare them to each other. And make them weathered, alive, as if plucked from the sea during a voyage. I dont do dios or figures, Im purely after the object modeling. 
 
Which brings me here. My secret desire for a long time has been to get out of the grey fleet and into the tall ships, of the 1800s and the steam era. In a scale that noone really does, 1:700. So this should be fun. 
 
Here is some of my work attached, and you can find my under "shipific" here, on Instagram or under my old handle "pascalemod" on other modeling forums. I am from Estonia originally, residing in sunny Sweden. 
 

Hallo Modellbaufreunde.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Vielen Dank an alle für die freundlichen Kommentare.
 
Kleine Fortschritte bei dem Baum des Modells.
Erklärungen dazu erspare ich mir, Bilder / Fotos zeigen es ja.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hello All,
 
As announced work on the tilting table now concentrates on fixing the bad alignment of the pins that connect the tilting table to the bearings. The ‘plan B’ is presented in the next figure.
 

 
As you can see the 2 pins are replaced with 1 cylinder that is mounted to the tilting plate with a V-groove. The 1 cylinder will result in better alignment to the bearings. But that shifts the problem now to the fit of the cylinder in the V-groove. I have no equipment (larger mill) to make this accurate groove. So I will make it to the best of my abilities and use a clever interconnection technique to join cylinder to the tilting plate.
 
First things first: the V-groove. I first removed both steel pins and then cut off a small strip of the edge. This is to assure that the new cylinder which has a 6 mm diameter will be in the same position then the former pins.
 

 
Next is the V-groove that I will make with 2 saw cuts at 45°. For that I need a fixture to hold the tilting plate at 45°. The fixture is made of some scrap wood glued together and then sanded a bit. It is not perfect at 45° but will do.
 

 

 
Then the V-groove can be sawn.
 

 
The next close-up of the V-groove show that it is far from perfect. When the cylinder is pressed in the groove it shows small misalignment to the top or bottom of the tilting plate. Then I realise that gluing the 2 parts together can compensate for the misalignment on condition the I can position both correctly to one another.
 

 
So lets start, the next picture shows all parts involved before gluing. I have 3 dowel pins that are ground accurate at a diameter of 3 mm. That is exact the distance between base plate and tilting plate in horizontal position, see the picture below.
 

 
The 2 dowel pins under the cylinder will support both the cylinder and the tilting plate so that they are level. The 2 small plates at both sides of the base plate will align base and tilting plate. A weight on top covering part of the tilting plate and cylinder assures that everything stays in contact while the glue sets. As a last measure I put 2 calipers set at 73.1mm over tilting plate and cylinder at both sides. Now I hope I cancelled most sources of bad alignment. The whole setup is shown next.
 

 
Now its time to take a break and cross my fingers.
 
Best regards,
 
Kris

Hello All,
 
This is my mini proxxon mill. It consists of a MB200 drill stand, a KT70 xy-table and a 230V ISB/E drill/grinder. I already added an extra z-control on top of the drill stand as you can observe in the next picture.
 

 
Milling small wooden (or aluminium) parts to precise dimensions is possible but you must take into account that total run-out at the end mill can be up to 0.2mm.
From time to time I need to do milling at an angle and I used to make small wedges to be placed under the workpiece. An example is shown next.
 

 

 
It requires some calculation of the wedge dimensions and precision sawing to get it right. The problem is that a next piece more often then not requires a different angle and a repeated effort to make the wedge.
That is the reason I want a small tilting table on this mini mill. Looking around on the internet, I could not find any suitable solution for such a small mill. So I started my CAD program and tried to design something that would support the MS4 machine vice at an angle. See below an animation of this design.
 

 
And here is a view with all parts made semi transparent.
 

 
So I started construction. First ordered some aluminium parts of different sections: 6x70 mm for a base- and the tilting-plate, 3x20 mm for the bearing-holders and 2x15 mm for the locking plates.
 

 
The base and tilting plate were sanded to make the surfaces clean and flat. Then some machining followed: threaded holes for M3 and M4, 10 mm holes for the MF105zz bearings and 4 mm holes for the cylinder pins that connect the tilting plate to the bearings. Here you see some finished parts.
 

 
These parts could be assembled and checked on the xy-table.
 

 
While the result was quit good (< 0.1 mm over a 50x50 mm area) I could see that when tilted the tilting plate moves different left compared to right. That is because the holes for the cylinder pins are not positioned equal at both sides (see next picture).
 

 
I already noticed that the 4 mm drill was wandering a bit to much at 1 side when making the hole.
Also drilling the 10mm holes in such small parts is not easy to keep them at the wanted position. I tried to fix things by enlarging the M3 holes to 3.5 mm in the bearing holders. It helped a little but not sufficient to meet my requirements. So it is time for a ‘plan B’ to fix this. But that is for a next update.
 
best regards,
   Kris

Continuing with the lower platforms...there are two aft platforms.  They are framed exactly like the two forward ones.   Mark out the heights for the frames etc.  I wont go through the step by step and instead just mention the a couple of noteworthy things.  
 
There is another jig that helps with finding the height and position of the first beam on the upper platform.   Dont throw it away after using it.  It will come in handy later.  Note that the mizzen mast partner is laser cut for you.   Its a little longer on the forward and aft sides so you can adjust its position over the mast step to match the plans.  
 

Just as with the forward platforms...use the plans as templates to help fins the proper positions of those ledges for the scuttle openings as well.   Using them as templates helps so much and really help you see the final product.
 

Now that the framing is done,  the next stage is to plank the lowest platform.   Once again the templates of these really helps.   Everything is laid out on them.  Note how the deck planking hangs over the forward beam.  The planks also run over the aft beam as well.   Use the string to keep everything lined up down the center.
 

It was hard to keep everything focused in this last picture because the camera wanted to only focus on the string....but here I have attempted to show the templates positioned down the center line.  They fit perfectly.   I will be back with more pics after the planking is done and I start to cut some beams on that after-most platform for the stairs...
 
Its just busy work for a while getting the planking done.  You should keep these templates because it will make life very easy when it comes to laying out all those cabins later in the project.
 

Hello modelingfriends,
 
thank you very much for the kind comments and likes.
Remaining frames were installed the inside was straightened and sanded.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

There is a topic very close by where this is discussed: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/31657-seawatch-books-is-open/
 
A bit worried about Mike, no email updates since November (except a few sales) and last login to MSW in December last year. Hope it he is ok and just hiding under a lower deck until the Volume 3 is finally available  
Let's keep in mind that it is a small niche business that is mostly driven by enthusiasm, let's be gentle and cooperative with people who provide that invaluable service to the modelling community
 

Hi Everyone!
 
Allow me to provide an update here. First to @Mark P, my apologies on not returning your email. I am looking into whether my spam filters are blocking emails from the website (I've had a few people mention this to me recently).
 
To everyone, I am sorry for the repeated delays and I am embarrassed that it keeps happening. Simply stated, when I turned on pre-orders last summer (!), I thought the book was further along and that there were just some simple edits to do ahead of sending it to the printer. It was actually a much more involved process to get it print ready (note this is on me, not the author). Then, each time I think we're close, I find something else in the layout.
 
Here's where things stand: I am expecting the final layout from the designer in the next 24-48 hours. Then we just have the dust jacket to finalize, at which point it will go to the printer and when it does, I will have a rock solid delivery date.
 
This is not how I wanted things to go - chalk it up to some rookie mistakes on my part. But we are on track and as always thanks for your patience.
 
Mike

There is a topic very close by where this is discussed: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/31657-seawatch-books-is-open/
 
A bit worried about Mike, no email updates since November (except a few sales) and last login to MSW in December last year. Hope it he is ok and just hiding under a lower deck until the Volume 3 is finally available  
Let's keep in mind that it is a small niche business that is mostly driven by enthusiasm, let's be gentle and cooperative with people who provide that invaluable service to the modelling community
 

There is a topic very close by where this is discussed: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/31657-seawatch-books-is-open/
 
A bit worried about Mike, no email updates since November (except a few sales) and last login to MSW in December last year. Hope it he is ok and just hiding under a lower deck until the Volume 3 is finally available  
Let's keep in mind that it is a small niche business that is mostly driven by enthusiasm, let's be gentle and cooperative with people who provide that invaluable service to the modelling community
 

The first project completed this year. The work began several years ago. A set of decor for one of the most beautiful ships of the 18th century - the French 64-gun ship Le Fleuron 1729

Hi all. I haven’t been here for a long time, since then there have been new exhibits in my virtual museum 🙂
 

Internal Bulwark planking completed, now to pack her up and get ready for the move.