Mike Y

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello modeling friends.
The model is planed according to the plan drawings of Gerard Delacroix, Le Fleuron 1729.
Scale: 1/60, Wood: Elsbeere (Sorbus torminalis).
I will build the model as "La Charpente", as shown in picture 0.01.
i.e. only the carpentry / joinnery,
without interior fittings and carving of the exterior.
 
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice progress and thanks for sharing your tricks. Some angles remind of the Tally Ho series, indeed

Nice progress and thanks for sharing your tricks. Some angles remind of the Tally Ho series, indeed

In an attempt to stay somewhat true to the original detailwise, I mused over how to fabricate the coppling between the rudder and rudderstock. Se the picture below.

What I came up with I figure is an alternative way to make trucks for gun carriages. For those of us that do not own a precision lathe, that is.
How then? Well, I used my bung drillbit, then swapped it for a regular drillbit without moving the stock. Then parted it off with the bandsaw.


Apart from the coppling I also used it as bottom support for the rudder. 🙂 

This was all for today. Now that the rudder assembly is figured out I can turn my attention to the bitts for the bowsprit. That also includes the bowsprit itself. So back to the plans and software...

Yes yes, the measurements are to scale and not real world dimensions. My reasoning behind that is so that I not necessarily need to print them out, but instead just can look at the drawing and fabricate the spar from that.
 
That's all for now, cheers!

I agree @wefalck, if you haven't already, look up the Tally Ho rebuild on youtube. The documentation is superb and I was especially impressed when one of the shipwrights drilled holes for the fastenings for the chainplates. All holes were at different angles and he managed to hit spot on every time. 
I learned from a fellow of mine, his job is to drill in concrete, that using drill bits (or augers) with four flanges(?) makes for straighter holes. Which confirms your thesis also.

I am always amazed watching videos of full-time construction how they manage to come out at the right location, when they drill deep holes ...
 
I think in the old days they used augers or 'canon-drills', rather than spiral drills. The former have less tendency to wander.

Calling in sick has its advantages on modelling time... but it does not help the revenue, so I'll go back to work tomorrow. Feeling way better today than yesterday. I even fell asleep mid-day yesterday. I normally don't do that. "What so special about that? I do that every day", I hear you say. Well, I'm not THAT old yet. 😄 
 
Thanks for all the likes in my humble build log.
 
Wisky plank is in!

And all treenails are in.
Hull i sanded, painted, and sanded down through 100/120/180/240 grit. Yes, there are seams still open. Yes, you can see individual planks. Yes, it is not a museum quality piece. In fact, I will try to weather it a bit to go with the less than meticisously perfect hull. 

And I thought this image looked cool:

Look @KeithAug, I did not turn it into a lamp-shade material!

Next up... hm, two things, 1. rudder shaft and rudder. Need to find the drawing and print according to scale. And 2. Drill for prop shaft. Needless to say, they will be done in reverse order...
Pax et bonum!

Thank you Vladimir 👍
Hi Dave thanks for your nice comments.  I work to the dimensions on Gerards drawings as best I can - so if I measure a piece to be 5.8mm I try and make it that size rather than rounding up to 6mm.  I have found that I get very little cumulative error by doing this   BTW have a really great holiday you lucky fella 👍
 
Okay - the windlass 😍 what a lovely piece this is to make on this ship.  Although I've not strictly adhered to Gerards drawings as it should be slightly barrel shaped I have enjoyed making this.
 
So first of all I had a bit of play to work out the indexing on my rotary table which you can see standing on the mill slide.  Once sorted I shaped a hexagonal piece which was again made by gluing two bits together.  Its dimensions are just over 18mm wide it's quite a chuck of wood.

Looking at the drawings there is a 3 degree angle to be cut on the length of the windlass and also the pawl cut outs are set 12 degrees back from the hexagonal facets.


So I set the 3 degree angle and cut the taper and also rough cut the pawl locations.


Once that was done I revised the pawl cuts and milled them to their final size.  This is easy to do as long as you do not accidentally reset your mill dials.

Then I drilled out the holes for the windlass lever which are set a 90 degrees to each other and go all of the way through too.  I also cut the windlass bearings.
So now I've ended up with a piece looking like this - Now anyone that does machining knows that my biggest problem is turning the windlass around in the chuck.  I cannot grip on the tapered surface with the 4 jaw chuck.

So to solve this problem I made some tapered inserts that I glued on using PVA knowing that I can remove them later using IPA.

I then turned the windlass around in the chuck and repeated the same processes to the other end.


Now the chances of me hitting exactly the same angle with such a Heath Robinson solution was slim.  The windlass did not come out entirely symmetrical but it looks ok to me.  If I made it again I expect that I would get the same result so upwards and forwards.  
 
The next stage was to make the round holes square for the lever which I intend to make later.  I'm sorry but I forgot to take any pictures of this process - Its time consuming to get the square hole completely through but the end result is well worth it.
 
Finally there are 2 iron bands that fit around each end of the windlass.  These are hard to make and get a correct fit being hexagonal  - my advice is just keep at it until you get it right.  Due to my taper/angle discrepancy the ends of my windlass differ by 1mm so each one had to be custom made.

So here's the final result all cleaned up with blackened iron bands - I've never used brass black before but its very easy to use and the results are lovely.



So next I need to make the windlass supports - Thanks everyone for the likes and support with my build
 
Mark
 

Hello,
now all the beams are installed. Not every beam got a hanging knee. Only there where they go strait down, that was enow of finger artistic for me  
Is there something like Murphy's law, that the knees dry fit perfectly, but with some glue on it not  



And also the number of cannons increased.

The next thing to do are the coamings for the gratings and the stair.

I have decided to install cross sections os the lower deck partitions. This the powder room, the lowest store. As this is a merchant vessel, it would probably double as a filling room and be accessed from a flush scuttle in the deck above. No iron fittings were allowed and all nails were of copper. A small scuttle in the floor would allow powder spills to be swept out to avoid risk of explosion. It is a good exercise to build the s storerooms as it made me research more .

this shows the sliding panels for distribution of filled cartridges. I assume that the powder barrels were loaded through the scuttle above. I have not shown the light alcoves  which separated the lanterns from the powder store . These would have been in the starboard wall. These would exclude flame from the store.
 

 

The beams for the deck above are in place.
Dick

here is the completion of the framing of the bow module. Phew!
 
The jarrah has been oiled to nourish the wood. It wont remain shiny and the wood will darken.
 

 
hawse holes are yet to be made.
 

 

We are planning to move to a retirement village later this year and I won't be taking my larger workshop tools with me. I've already put my larger lathe and mill on ebay, but would much rather my modelling equipment went to a Forum member (I'm also listing my oscillating bobbin sander). I'm hanging on to smaller tools and in a funny sort of way I'm looking forward to going back to a simpler way of modelling.
 

This is Proxxon's top of the range scroll saw and does everything you could want such a machine to do. I've used it quite a bit but it's still in perfect working order and comes with a set of coarse, medium and fine blades. I particularly like the handy slot on the table that keeps the blade holders exactly the right distance apart as you fit the blade. 
 
The saw currently retails for around £450 and I would be happy for it to go to a Forum member for £300.
 
The saw is heavy (20kgs) so will need to be collected in person, from Worksop in North Nottinghamshire.
 
Derek
 
 

That's a ship of my own design,sort of my training ship,incorporating features of different  ships and countries,it's  still in the rigging stage as I'm using it to learn how to make certain parts and  on getting it to the right scale,it started out years ago as a scratch built victory then took a right turn somewhere,it's unique and original and it is very detailed.

Long time since I posted an update. 
 
I have some progress to share with you all. A mold for the ships boat. It is based on a plan that I found at DigitaltMuseum. It's laminated from thinner strips and formed using files and sand paper. The final mold is treated with shellac, and I plan to wax it so that glue won't stick to it.


I have also started with the sails. The are made in thin paper. The paper is nothing fancy like silk span. Just something a shirt I bought was wrapped in. The paper is spray painted in parchment color. The seams are marked with a hard pencil. In the picture below I'm gluing the edge rope (bolt rope?) to the top sails.
 

 

Time for another update. I have continued forward on the deck with fittings and equipment. Nothing has been permanently mounted yet. I want to see everything together first, to check that the proportions looks good.
 
In this photo, we can see the top of the windlass. Nothing else of the area in front of the fore mast can be seen above the railing. I need to make an educated guess.

I have decided for something similar to the layout shown in the following photo. It is from another schooner from about the same time. It shows the windlass, a companionway and a hatch. There are also two bollards at the railing, similar to the photo above.

For the windlass, the kit contained some nicely made brass pieces.
 

However, I don't feel that the roll is accurate enough. So I decided to make my own pieces.


The result, thus far. There are still the handles, and the mechanism for turning the drum to install. Maybe I will wait with that for later, so I won't break them when working with other things.

I'm still thinking about redoing the windlass drum. It may be a bit too big. I will look at how it looks together with the rest and decide later...

The trip to the Netherlands was very fun and interesting. However, it turned out to also gift me with a sample of the Coronavirus. The security queues at Schiphol airport on the way home were far from orderly, and quite long. I think that was where I caught it. As I'm vaccinated, the sickness wasn't too bad, and while recuperating I have been able to continue forward with the next installation on the deck.
 
In the photo below, there is a construction just fore of the main mast that the boom and gaff are resting on.

I interpret that as a winch of the following type. (The photo is from the 50 year older brig Gerda of Gefle, but I think it could serve as a prototype.)
 

I salvaged some cogwheels from a broken timer.

The final result does not quite work. For that, I think I would have needed some better precision tools, like a lathe.

 

The progress of this build has been slower the last couple of weeks. Other things have come in between, such as a trip to the Netherlands with the "Friends of the Vasa museum". It was four very interesting days, with visits to several museums and other maritime themed places (including the Rotterdam harbor).
 
Back home, I have finished the hatches.
 
The top is covered in thin dark olive colored cloth, which has been soaked with two coats of shellac.

The metal clamps are made from thick paper, and glued in place.

And the finished result.

I have started planking the deck. For this I have bought a 0.5 mm maple sheet, to replace the kit's precut deck that I have already discarded. I don't know the real dimensions of the deck planks, but from the blueprint I posted earlier (from another vessel) and photos of similar schooners, I think that 150 mm is about right. So, I have ripped planks using a knife and a steel ruler that are slightly narrower than 4 mm. This method requires that plank edges are sanded to get a smooth edge, so they end up about the correct width.

Before installing, I use a soft pencil along the edges to simulate caulking.
 
 

About a year ago, an offer was made on a Swedish model building forum of a barely started model of Billing Boats Meta. At the time, I had just started to work on my Sloop from Roslagen and had begun to read about the costal sailers and small workboats of the late sailing period in the Baltic. I was considering a fore-and-aft schooner as a possible future subject. When I learned that Meta originally had such a rig, I reached out to the man offering the model. As it turned out, he lived just 15 minutes away, and I went over an evening in August last year.
 
He told me that he had gotten the model in about 79 and had started to build it. But soon he went of to university, and it was abandoned. It had then been sitting in first his parent's house, and then in his own basement. Hopefully waiting to be finished. Now he had sold his house and planned to move to something smaller. Apparently he still felt for the model, as he had kept it all these years, and had now reached out to offer it to someone to complete.
 
What I got was the box with all material and fittings, and the bulkheads and keel assembled.




As can be seen from the pictures, this kit was made before the introduction of laser cutting. The paler wood looks like Obeche and the darker strips as Walnut. The pale wood is relatively soft and has quite visible grain, but is otherwise of good quality and clean cut. I plan to replace some, possibly all, of the wood with better quality. The same goes for the fitting, a few pieces looks usable, others must be replaced. The brass belaying pins looks OK, while the plastic blocks and dead eyes are terrible.
 
When I got it, the keel and bulkhead assembly was slightly twisted. It might have been assembled such, but I though that it had been lying on the side for many years in a basement. I bought a building slip from Hobbyzone, soaked the assembly and put it to dry for several months while straightened in the building slip.

It did not turn out totally straight, the last bulkhead must have been misaligned when installed. I have not decided if I should disassemble the offending bulkhead, or if I can correct it in place with shims on one side and filing on the other?

My plan is to modify the model to make the model look like the ship was originally built. In a future post I will present what I have found out about so far, and what I plan to modify  in the model to get her to look like it.

Alas, sawdust!
Same scale, a lot bigger... as per usual I have started with the stem pieces. By no means perfect and also managed to incorporate some sapwood in the lower part of stem. I will redo the stem buildup another day. Today I was more interested in what kind of challenges I have with tooling. Square faces and all that. Anyway, it didn't come out half-bad. Also, being constantly tired, long days in the shop is not feasible sadly enough.
 
But why start building, the drawings aren't finished, are they?
No, they're not. But I had some challenges in "seeing" the stern part since the center-line has different widths (sidings) around the rudder and propshaft. Therefore I though it better to start putting the center-line together and move on with drafting after that.
 
The wood is apple, if anyone wonder. Harvested some 10 years ago... 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

To finish up chapter 4 and the forward platforms,  the breasthooks were made.  There are two of them.   These are laser cut for you in two halves.  Its just easier to work with them this way.  I usually shape one half and lightly tack it in position.  Then I shape the other half and fit it in next to it.   At this point they can both be removed and joined together.  Do a quick sanding to refine everything and add the bolts.  The bolts are 30 lb. black line.  
 
The lower breast hook has etched bevel lines because the side that fits against the frames needs to be beveled.  Its just a start because everyone's model will be slightly different.
 

Lastly..to finish off this chapter I made the riding bitts.  Like the fire hearth, this wont be glued in position yet.  But its good to have at the ready.   We will need it before framing out the rest of the forecastle deck later.  So the cross beam is laser cut for you.  Just clean it up and shape to suit.  I just used some needle files, etc.   The uprights are basically made from 5/16" x 5/16" strips.   Measure against the plans and shape the tops to suit.  Use the plans as a guide.  Nothing earth shattering with these.  
 

 
 
I will paint the riding bitts red above the gun deck.  I used the plans to determine where that break would be.   Here is what it looks like after being painted and test fit.  Note the string...this is good to get in place now too.  Its glued lightly to the center of the stem and then taped to the top of the stern post.  It will help guide you when setting fittings along the center line.  It helps a lot!!!
 

The fire hearth and riding bitts have been set aside for safe keeping.
 
Next up chapter 5 which will take care of the aft lower platforms and a few other odds and ends.
 

More done this time it's the forecastle deck waterways.  As with the main deck these are tricky to make and get a good fit.
 
Here I'm just pretty much roughing out the shape to get a good fit on the hull and beams.  I learn't from last time to leave loads of extra material on until the final shaping.
 


This is what the final piece looks like - It varies in thickness, angle and profile.  I haven't put any of the making pictures up as its a replica of the process that I followed before.



Just dry clamped in place to check that all is ok.



It's all still a bit scruffy and needs cleaning up and pencil marks removed but on the whole they fit nicely and now I know that everything lines up.
 
So I can now put these parts away until later as I want to make the windlass, stove and office that sit between these decks.  Once they are made and installed I'll finally fit all of these pieces too.
 
Mark

The next step was to create the bulkhead on the lower platform.   This was laser cut.   All I had to do was cut some 1/8" x 1/8" strips to simulate the vertical beams.  I just cut them to length and glued them on.   Now this piece may not actually fit your model perfectly.   There are just too many variables.   It all depends on where you placed that first platform beam.   It also depends on how you faired the interior of the hull.  But I sure it could be tweaked in most instances.   If you had to, you could use this as a starting point template to make another.  It isnt very difficult to do.
 

This is a picture of the bulkhead glued in position.  It is glued on the forward side of that first platform beam.   The templates are there to help me during the next step.   I will be adding the carlings and ledges.  They can be taken right from these templates which are on the plans.  
 

Here is a photo of the ledges and carlings completed.  These will support the scuttle lids once planking is finished.  I plan on planking the entire platforms.  I think it will make creating the various cabins a lot easier.
 

Planking is underway with 5/16" x 3/64" cedar strips.  I am not too concerned about getting up close to the sides of the hull.  Depending on how fairing went, this could sometimes lead to a weird shape along the edge of the platform.   So I concentrated on making a nice shape with the outer edge of the platform deck planking since the sides of the hull inboard will not be planked.  I am getting close to the side though and creating a consistent shape port and starboard.  It will be impossible to see the sides of this planking when done.  Once I get this done I will add the metal work (eyebolts with rings) for those scuttle lids.   Then its onto the two aft platforms which are done in a very similar way.   Also note the two cut-outs for the legs of the riding bitts.   The planks were cut so I could slip the riding bits down into those slots...hopefully!!!
 

Somebody asked to see a wider shot of the hull with the depth gauge in position.   So here is a picture of the hull all dusty after finishing the planking on those forward platforms.  Dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  
 

Before I can begin placing the beams for the lower platforms,  I must make a height gauge first.   There are many ways to do this and a system will be very important to have moving forward on this project.   Greg describes one method in his books on Speedwell.   I have decided to go another way.  I prefer to make a depth gauge of sorts.  
 
Here is a photo...you folks can of course select any method you prefer.  I am fond of this one and such a gauge can be made with readily available scrap strips...Note how the pointer is a separate it to be slipped onto the lower shaft.   It is basically a very large T-square.   I used 3/32" thick strips but they are fairly wide so they wont bend or flex.  The center of the "T" is thinner at about 1/16" thick.

The pointer is meant to be slid onto the center shaft of the "T".  Everything is squared up and at perfect right angles.   Nice and neat.

Basically take the measurements from the plans to find the depth of any beams etc.   Like the forward platform beams.   The underside of the "T" is set flush with the sheer on the plan.   Then I mark the top of the platform beam on the center shaft...without the pointer on it.   Just a pencil tick mark.
 

Then the pionter is added to the shaft and lined up with the tick mark.  The pointer must fit nice and snug so it doesnt shift around.  Its a very tight fit on purpose.  Then the depth gauge can be brought to the model as shown.   Repeat on both sides for each beam end.  I am marking the height for the tops of the beams.  Find where that beam should be and mark its height on the model.  Repeat this process for every lower platform beam end.  Then connect the marks to find the proper height for the platform.   Basically repeat this on both sides.  Hope that makes sense.
 

I am basically trusting that my sheer on the model is correct and even on both sides.   I am confident...
 
But if your sheer is off you have bigger problems anyway.  No matter what method you choose there will be issues.   This is just one method that can be used.  I did this for all the lower platform beams which are 3/16" x 3/16" cedar.  That is except for the most forward platform which has 1/4" x 3/16 beams just under the stove.  Check you plans carefully.  The beams have no roundup and are just cut from strip stock.   They are carefully measured and shaped to fit snug.  Placement is important here.
 

In fact the placement of the first 1/4" x 3/16 beam of the forward-most platform is very important.   It is exactly 5/16" away from the beam aft of it on the lowest platform.   So a small jig was laser cut to help find its location.  This will be provided.   It sits on the lower platform beams which went in first.   It has laser etched marks to help you place that first beam in position correctly at the right height and the right distance from the lower platform beam.
 

Once all seven of the forward platform beams were in place I tested my placement with the a cutout of the plans.  Everything is level and the plans fits pretty darned good.

Next up is to add the a bulkhead and some additional framing on these platforms before I plank them.
 
Hope this makes sense...
 
Chuck