bhermann

I received this as a Christmas gift last year and recently decided to give it a shot.  The model comes packaged in a 6"x6" box and works up into a 5 1/2" model stem to stern.
 

 
The materials consist of two steel sheets with all parts attached via sprues.  Construction is of the "insert tab a in slot b" type.  The tabs can be folded over or twisted 90 degrees to lock the parts together.  Steps are laid out in a series of diagrams - no text here.
 

 
Tools used for construction - a wire cutter to cut parts loose (some have three attachment points and I cut one before twisting the parts loose) and a needlenose plier to fold or twist the tabs to lock in place.
 

 
The order of steps is logical and I was able to follow with no deviation.  Here is a shot of the underside that shows several of the tabs twisted and locked in place.
 

 
A few shots of the finished model follow.  The pieces were not dangerously sharp, but I wouldn't recommend this for younger kids.  I was thinking about getting one to build with my 7 year old granddaughter, but I think I'll hold off on that.  I have a paper pirate ship I picked up a few years ago - we may start there.
 



 
A size comparison with my Bluenose in progress
 

 
and the model in it's display location atop my monitor.  We'll see if the cat allows that to continue.
 

 
Overall the model went together well.  The pieces were strong enough to take some flexing, the assembly plan was logical (although a third hand would be useful at some points), and the completed model holds together well.  In short it was just the thing to help me keep my hand in model building, while I continue in my Bluenose doldrums.  It's a fun little project that takes a short amount of time and provides completion satisfaction quickly.  Now I can say I have a completed build!
 
Bob
 

I hear you Bob. Unfortunately I have also had to learn that one has to think in years here, rather than days or weeks...
Since we built our house 3 years ago my Bluenose is also patiently awaiting better times...
It is what it is. I look forward to seeing more of your work, knowing that this seems far away now but will be there before I know it. 😉

Hi BigJ and welcome to the Bluenose club.  My recollection of those filler blocks is that I traced the cross sections from the plans onto the sides and end of the blocks and removed the excess material with a coping saw, then glued them in place and finished shaping them as part of the bulkhead fairing process.  Of course this all happened 12 years ago, so there is no guarantee that is exactly how it went down.
 
My advice is to take a deep breath, take your time and work the excess away slowly.  And always remember - it is wood, if things get too bad, you can always remove what you've done and start over with new filler blocks
 
Bob

LOL - if you do order the tap and die set make sure to get both RH and LH threads - so you can make those working turnbuckles!
 
I am not at a complete standstill - in fact my mind is going 200 mph, even though the build itself is crawling.  I did manage to finish making and cutting out the templates for the sail set.  Don't know if I'll use the fisherman sail, but I have it if needed.  I may add a third reef band to the mainsail - it seems too large not to have the option.
 
The sails laid out:
 

 
and where they are going to:
 

 
A closer look at the destination.  I see the mast hoops are too thick, but I have to remember I have a few extras on the mast in case of breakage.
 

 
Still working out the details of sail construction in my mind.  I am pretty clear on drawing the hem lines, not stitching them.  I am debating on whether to fold the hems over and glue them, or to get an iron-on edge and trim that to the actual sail size.  Anyway, here are a couple of shots of where I am at the moment.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Capt. Jack - I used Testors Model Master acrylics in painting Bluenose.  Four colors - Insignia Red, Blue Angels Yellow, Flat Black, and Flat White.  I did prime and sand the surfaces before applying final coats.
 
I recommend flat paints as they tend to scale better.  Gloss paints will pop, but to my eye they look a bit unrealistic.
 
Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 299 – Crojack Yard 4
 
This part will wrap up the rigging work on the lower mizzen yard – aka the Crojack.  The last lines to be installed were the bowlines.  These were used to control the windward leech of the sail when the yards were braced at an angle.  They consisted of three parts each:  the 3" bowline, itself, a 3" lizard" about 25' long, with bullseyes spliced into each end, and one or more "bridles".  The single starboard bridle is shown in the first picture.
 

 
This is about 20' long and also 3".  The splices at the ends of this would be fastened to the bowline cringles on the sail, but since there are no sails on this model, the bridle is tied off to the jackstay where it could be cut loose and tied to the cringles when "bending" the sail to the yard.  The picture shows the upper bullseye of the starboard lizard. The the full length of the  lizard is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows both bowlines installed, with arrows to help see the parts of the lines.
 

 
The standing end of each bowline is secured to the lower part of the mizzen topmast stay, passes up through the lower lizard bullseye, and finally belays on the outer arm of the main mast fife rail. 
 
The last two pictures show the fully-rigged crojack at this stage.
 

 
The loose chains hanging from the ends of the yard are the lower topsail sheets that will be connected to the clew lines when that yard is rigged.
 
 

 
So, as I mentioned in one of the responses, this is the seventh spar to be rigged, with another dozen to go – most being simpler, however.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 298 – Crojack Yard 3
 
In the first picture, the yard has been permanently hung on its truss, the sling chain fastened to the mast, and the two triple tackles for the lower topsail yard sheets rigged.  These are shown in the first picture. 

 
The tackles are fixed to the sheet chains with wire shackles, formed in place.  At the lower ends the blocks are hooked to deck eyebolts.  The tackle falls pass through sheaves in the sheet bitts and will be belayed on pins through those bitts.  The next picture shows the two yard braces with their pendants.
 

 
I am installing the mizzen braces as each yard is rigged because they run forward toward the center and should not interfere with later rigging access like those on the forward masts that run outboard.  Those are being deferred until later.  In the picture the two pendants are threaded on to a wire that will form the common shackle by which they are secured to an eyebolt on the main mast.  The next picture shows that shackle being formed.
 

 
To make the shackle, the wire is passed through the eyebolt from both sides.  A single overhand loop in the wire is then pulled tight through the eyebolt to simulate a shackle.  The wire will later be painted black.  The braces are spliced to eyes in the block straps as shown in the previous photo.  The lines then run through blocks shackled to eyes at the yard arm, back through the pendant blocks and are belayed on the main mast fife rail below.  The next picture shows the run of the two braces.
 

 
The next picture shows the brace connection at the yardarm.  The blocks are shackled to the forward band eyebolts on each side as shown below.
 

 
The next lines on this yard to be rigged were the clue garnets with their sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached, followed by the bunt and leech lines. These are virtually identical in configuration to their counterparts on other masts that were described in earlier posts.  They may be seen in the next photo.
 

 
The clue garnet blocks are positioned by temporary belaying of the tacks and lazy tacks.  This will be adjusted later when the sheets are rigged.   These, along with most other outer rigging is being deferred until later to maximize access.  The next picture shows the bunt and leech line blocks on the yards and hooked under the top. 
 

 
These six lines pass through fairleads on the lower shrouds, then belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The reef tackles were then rigged, one of which is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The standing end of the reef tackle is spliced to an eye on the yardarm block that is shackled to the bottom eye on the yard arm band.  It then passes through a block tied off to the jackstay as shown, then back through the outer block, inward to the double quarter block on this side, then down to the fife rail.  This picture also shows a close view of the shackled brace block and the shackled topping lift pendant on the top eye of the band.  The loosely hanging chain is the lower topsail sheet that will be rigged later.
 
Whew!  These descriptions are like a rewrite of the rigging list.
 
Next, the bowlines.
 
Ed

Ed, observing the log since long and building YA following your plans and books. Its a great pleasure to see the model coming up slowly. Currently I started with the main deck. All parts are prepared and assembling will start tomorrow. Your standard is very hard to meet.

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

I have now built and installed the rear cabin with it's companionway and skylight. This completes the deck items. The cabin was built up from boxwood strips, with some interior bracing to support the walls and roof. The skylight glazing is clear styrene sheet. The door handles are blackened pin heads.
 
The next thing to be done will be the lower deadeyes and chainplates.
 
Bob

John -  sorry I missed this.  I don't have a lot (or any) painting expertise, so I seldom look into this topic.  I built this guy a few years back after a couple of false starts on models that were much too complicated to take on with no experience.  I have a recollection of gluing my fingers together rather severely while putting the barrel together.
 
I'm afraid I can't help with your paint color question.  I did the hull white, and the interior a dark green color.  Like I said, not much experience with paint here. It looks like your build has turned out very nicely.  I like the natural wood interior, even if that isn't the way they normally did them.  The paddlewheeler came out very nicely too.
 
Bob

One more thought on the lugs.  I find that silver solder flows toward the heat source.  The idea was counter-intuitive to me but it does work that way.  In future attempts you may want to think about applying the paste on one side of the band and applying the torch to the other side.  Good luck - whatever you decide to do will be fine.  The band with eyes looks good to me.
 
Bob

Ed the old saying "you have raised the bar" need to be changed to read "you have crossed the line".
 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 259 – Lower Course Buntlines and Leech Lines
 
Buntlines and leech lines were used to bring in the lower and outer edges of square sails when furling.  In the case of the lower sails, the courses, they were also used to make up and raise the sail package to the yard for bending.  Buntlines were toggled or knotted to cringles on the lower edge of the sail, leech lines to cringles on the sides.  On lower sails these lines then passed through lead blocks on the yard, single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, and down through shroud fairleads to belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The first picture shows these lines on the fore yard.
 
 
 
The four inner lines are the buntlines and outside are the single and smaller leech lines.  The lines pass through lead blocks lashed to the jackstays.  On the "no sails" model, the lines are stopped at the block with toggles that would be used to fasten to the sail cringles.  These toggles may be seen in the next two pictures.
 
 
 
The toggles, were made from small lengths of wire, passed through the line and glued to simulate an eye.
 

 
The next picture shows the blocks at the top.
 

 
The blocks on the 3" buntlines are 9", on the 2½" leechlines 8". 
 
And finally, the lines passing through the shroud fairleads to the pin rail.
 

 
As with all the running rigging for this first yard, final belaying and tensioning will not be done until all lines for the yard are rigged.  This will facilitate getting the right level of tension and avoid rework.  For this reason lines may not appear properly tensioned and a mass of excess lines clutter the deck at this stage.
 
 
 
Ed

Pssst Mike - Most of us just call them levels.
 
Dr. Per is just getting technical on you.

Making progress...
 
I've made and installed the jumbo jib sail, fore sail, and main sail.  Each one is getting easier.  The jumbo jib sail took 4 tries, the fore sail took 3 tries, and the main sail just took one try.  Getting my hands on a 'real' sewing machine really helped.
 
Previously I installed and rigged the booms and gaffs, but didn't use any glue when securing the rigging.  This let me make paper templates based on the actual placement of the booms and gaffs on my build.  Once the sails were made, I de-rigged the booms and gaffs and removed them from the ship.  The sails were laced on, and everything was re-installed.
 
I'm actually enjoying working on the sails quite a bit.  As I've been working through installing the sails, the various bits of rigging are starting to finally 'click' for me.  I'm finally starting to really understand what each line does instead of just running lines according to the plans.
 
Three sails down, five more to go!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 258 – Fore Lower Topsail Sheets 1
 
Sheets restrain the clues (lower corners) of sails.  They are attached to common shackles with the topsail clue lines.  These shackles are hauled down to the cheek blocks in the lower yard by triple tackles at the deck.  When sails are furled or unbent, the clues and the attached sheets are hauled up to the bunt, the center part of the topsail yard.  Chain was used on sheets (and halyards) for durability in resisting constant working through the sheaves due to wind fluctuations on the sails (and yards). 
 
It may seem like an odd time to be installing these, but I intend to use the sheet chains to haul all the yards down to put tension on their sling chains or, in the case of upper yards, their halyards and standing lifts.  The model yards are too light to fall of their own weight.  To do this, the sheet chains will be stopped together inside the sheet blocks so that putting tension on the sheet tackles will hold the yard down and also allow the chains under the yard to sag realistically.  The method uses a wire connection between the two sheets as illustrated below.
 

 
The wire strap between the two separate sheet chains will loop over the central pin in the block.  The short legs will drop inside their respective sheaves.  The stopper link will be invisible as seen in the next picture.
 

 
The drooping horizontal chains in the picture are reeved through the fairleads under the yard, through the cheek blocks then temporarily suspended above until their yard is rigged later.  These upper legs are unaffected by tension on the lower ends.  The lower ends of the chains are secured to triple-purchase tackles that hook into eyebolts in the deck.  These were strung up as shown below before installing.
 

 
In the next picture the port tackle has been rigged.
 

 
The upper block is "shackled" to the chain – in this case fastened by a shackle-like, knotted loop of wire.  The opposite chain is tied off temporarily with wire awaiting its tackle.  The next picture shows both tackles secured to their chains.
 

 
The lengths of chain on each sheet is long enough to haul the lower topsail clues down to the lower yardarms from their initial position when the topsail is bent to the yard, so these triple purchases use up a lot of rope – most of which ends up coiled when the sail is rigged. 
 
The next picture shows the lower ends of the tackles hooked to the eyebolts and belayed on the long pins through the sheet bitts. 
 

 
These connections will probably be re-configured later, but for now the tackles have pulled the yard down and tightened the sling chain as may be seen in the last picture.
 

 
 
Ed           

Sorry for the grainy resolution, but painting has been achieved. 
Don't touch still wet!

I took a step back and reviewed my lines........ and no way I am to use them.
My setup was too simple and inaccurate.
I had heard about using laser for the purpose and after a lot of tweaking with the setup bench I was ready.
And after this I am to get my own laser as this worked out so fine.
To get this correctly I used a mdf board normally used for shelving and added the pedestals as I had marked out on plan and boat.
This setup would ensure proper waterline.
Next was to secure her and align it all with water levelers.
Once I had this done, aligning the laser was the next step.
Once that was done, lights on and I had a perfect waterline. Using a regular pencil I marked it off.

For some reason of which I can't recall I had narrow masking tape from the auto painting, best part it had the perfect width for the waterline.
Applying it and then masking of the top area of the hull I will paint the lighter colored hull part.
I learned this long time ago always paint the lighter colors first then the darker.
What is extremely important before painting is to use a round edge tool to have the tape having a proper contact with the surface.

Happy with this I started experimenting to get a proper anti-fouling red tone.
I didn't like the one recommended from MS, so I gave my Vallejo paint a shot.
Turned out really nice.
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 257 – Fore Yard Bowlines
 
Bowlines were used to keep the weather leech on large sails taut when close hauled – to prevent the sail from folding back on itself.  On double topsail rigs they seem to have been used only on lower sails.  The lines were toggled or tied to cringles about halfway down the leeches on each side of the sail using "bridles" that were brought together to a "lizard" that in turn was connected to the bowline itself.  This consisted of a sort of whip tackle.  Bowline bridles were toggled or tied to the sail after it was bent to the yard before it was loosed, so on the unsailed model the bridles are stopped to the jackstays with temporary knots.  The first picture shows the installed bowlines.
 

 
The bridles are passed through bullseyes on the lizards and tied off to jackstay stanchions.  The standing ends of the tackles are shackled to eyes in the bowsprit, passed through the forward lizard bullseyes, passed through blocks lashed to the bowsprit cap, and belated on the forecastle fife rail.  The next picture shows the two blocks being lashed to the cap eyebolts.
 

 
The next picture shows the method I use to form most eye splices to shackles.
 

 
The needle is passed into the rope, then the short end is threaded through the eyebolt shackle and needle, then pulled through and glued.  The next picture shows the shackled eyebolt installed in the side of the bowsprit just aft of the bands.
 

 
The picture also shows the bowlines rigged through the blocks.  The next picture shows lizard bullseyes and the bridles.
 

 
The bridle eyes are tied off to jackstay stanchions using small hemp knots.
 

 
Then, a close-up of one of the bullseyes.
 

 
The splice around the bullseyes were made as described above.  As with other running rigging on the fore yard, the falls were belayed without glue to allow for later adjustment of tension or sag.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 256 – Fore Yard Reef Tackle
 
The effective area of most sails could be reduced by "reefing," that is, taking in sail to diminish its size while set.  Larger square sails, except for lower topsails, were equipped for this purpose with horizontal canvas reinforcing bands across the sail.  These "reef bands" were fitted with "reef points", short lengths of rope to tie up the reefed part of the sail.  To assist in bringing the reef band up to the yard, reef tackle was attached to the yard arm and to "cringles" on the leech of the sail just below the reef bands.  This was normally a simple "gun tackle" (two single blocks) with a runner through a sheave on the double quarter block running down to a pin on the fore mast fife rail.  When sails were removed (unbent), the cringle block would be tied off (stopped) to the jackstay.  When the sail was again bent to the yard, this tackle would be attached to its "ear-ring" and used to stretch it out to the ends.  It would then be re-connected to the reef cringle.  The first picture shows the reef tackle fall running below the yard and through the quarter block.
 

 
The next picture shows the yard arm tackle block shackled to the lower eyebolt on the band.
 

 
In this picture the seizing to the block has not yet been tied, nor has the fall been taken inboard to the quarter block.  The cringle block is just visible below the boom.  The next picture shows both tackles rigged.
 

 
In the next picture the port fall is being belayed to the third pin on the fife rail.  As with other lines at this stage, no glue is used (yet), allowing further adjustment once the yard is secured at final height (next part).
 

 
The next picture shows the completed tackle under the port yard arm.
 

 
The last picture shows the cringle block stopped to a jackstay stanchion.
 

 
I plan to replace the permanent-style black lashing shown here with a more temporary hemp stopper knot.  This picture also shows the type of lashing used on the foot rope stirrups, the shackled attachment of the lift pendant, and some other blocks.  The block at the lower left is the halyard block for the lower studding sail yard and will not be rigged.  This block is strapped around the yard arm, simulating a lashed eye attachment.  The eye on the aft side of the band will connect the brace pendant, and the iron cheek block will pass the soon-to-be-installed lower topsail sheet chain.
 
 
Ed           

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 255 – Fore Yard Topping Lifts
 
Topping lifts supported the lower yards at the ends and allowed it to be "topped", that is lifted on one side, usually to clear dockside obstructions.  Each lift consisted of a pendant secured to the upper eye on the fore yard arm band.  This was connected to a luff tackle to the mast cap with the fall belayed on the foremast fife rail.  A luff tackle uses a single and double block combination to produce a mechanical advantage of 4.  The double block is secured to the foremast cap band.  The first picture shows the port side lift strung up.
 

 
Temporary thread lines to keep the yard roughly level for the rigging of the lifts lines may be seen in the picture.  The next picture shows the single tackle block that is spliced on the end of the pendant with an eye.
 

 
The standing end of the tackle has been seized to the eye on the block with smaller hemp line.  The pendant is 6" line, the lift is 3".  Excess seizing will, of course be removed.  The outer end of the pendant shown in the next picture is spliced to a shackle on the upper eye of the yard arm band.
 

 
Because the shackle is soldered, this eyebolt was installed in the band after soldering the shackle and splicing the pendant - before the yard was hung.  The upper end of the starboard tackle is shown in the next picture.  
 

 
The double blocks were shackled to the cap band earlier, before it was installed.  Both lifts have been strung up and given initial tension in the next picture.
 

 
The falls are belayed on the fife rail shown in the next picture.
 

 
Belaying points are being left unglued until all the running rigging on the yard is in place.  The model yard is not heavy enough to put strain on the sling chain and force it fully down.  This issue will be addressed in one of the next parts.  The last picture shows the lifts installed and the yard levelled.
 

 
Levelling was done by measuring up from the base board to the outer ends.  Next, the reef tackles.
 
Ed

My simple setup for waterline marker.
Now time paint the white waterline area.

One of the issues with long lengths of naturally hanging rope, wire, or cable is that it tends to want to form naturally into a Catenary Arch which is the natural curve followed by anything hanging between two points. this curve is a result of gravity and the flexibility of the material hanging. To better understand this take a couple of blocks of wood with a pin in each place them about 6 inches apart and hang some model or jewellery chain between them, as the blocks are pushed closer together or pulled further apart the natural curve that occurs is a catenary arch. This is true for all curves hanging between two points. 
 
Therefore to get a clearer view of what the hanging foot rope would look like test the shape by using some small chain between the ends and hook the chain up at the various points, adjust the tension between the ends to get the required natural curves of the foot-ropes.
 
Michael