42rocker

After cleaning up the shipyard a bit, here goes....   New framing wood has been ordered but due to Jeff at Hobbymill's schedule it won't be here until late (very late) April.  I'm planning on using up my existing stock of swiss pear, ebony, pear, silver maple, and cherry and maybe some boxwood if I see fit. 
 
At this stage, I'm poring over the plans and notating such things as wale, gunport, and deck clamp locations on the individual frame drawings as I'm planning on putting some reference points on the frames physically as I cut them.  This should solve some of my previous issues..  With 60 frames, this is going to take a bit.
 
I have a new build board laid out and prepped but not cut.  The frame reference board is ready to go.
 
I'm still making a final decision on whether to stick with cherry or go with boxwood for the keel, stem, and stern items.   Version 1.0 sits forlornly in another part of the shipyard waiting for various bits and pieces to be cannibalized.  I'll be re-using my old fabricated measuring tools and making some new ones.
 
Hopefully, by the time the framing stock arrives, all the plans will be annotated and scanned, all the bits and pieces from V 1.0 will be cannibalized, and bunches of new bits will be fabricated and then ready and waiting. 
 
It's time to do this beast right and proper... and to have some fun doing it.
 
Footnotes to the build:  I'm adding to this as I discover things.
The Hahn plans lack a lot of details so additional sources will be needed.
    a) Hahn's "Ships of the American Revolution" is a must to understand the building method.
    b)  I also recommend the "La Belle Poule" monograph from ANCRE.  This has period bits and pieces along with the proper rigging as Hahn used La Venus which has pointed out to me as being from a later period.
 
 

Rather than the burn, stick in the ground, blow up or whatever. I really like the idea of your making a ship wreck scene out of it. Even with a break or two in the lines. To the folks that started this idea, I like it thinking out of the box.
Or a last idea.
Even if it's off in a few areas make a building scene out of it. Thinking of the cover of Harold Hahn's book. Or remove just the stern and show the building of a stern or bow. This way you are not building on the few errors (few and small to me). But making a time period building statement.
 
Please review and don't just chainsaw it away.
 
Later Tim

Rather than the burn, stick in the ground, blow up or whatever. I really like the idea of your making a ship wreck scene out of it. Even with a break or two in the lines. To the folks that started this idea, I like it thinking out of the box.
Or a last idea.
Even if it's off in a few areas make a building scene out of it. Thinking of the cover of Harold Hahn's book. Or remove just the stern and show the building of a stern or bow. This way you are not building on the few errors (few and small to me). But making a time period building statement.
 
Please review and don't just chainsaw it away.
 
Later Tim

Wow
Good Luck with everything as you have a lot of nice tools to protect.
Enjoy the drift from model engineering and steam work to model boats. But be always ready to drift with your flow of life. Enjoy is the main thing.
 
Try to stay dry.
 
Later Tim

Rather than the burn, stick in the ground, blow up or whatever. I really like the idea of your making a ship wreck scene out of it. Even with a break or two in the lines. To the folks that started this idea, I like it thinking out of the box.
Or a last idea.
Even if it's off in a few areas make a building scene out of it. Thinking of the cover of Harold Hahn's book. Or remove just the stern and show the building of a stern or bow. This way you are not building on the few errors (few and small to me). But making a time period building statement.
 
Please review and don't just chainsaw it away.
 
Later Tim

I think the ship wreck idea is an interesting one.  Instead of sand though make a shipwreck garden scene.  She'll be returning to earth with style.  

Cut it a the right angle, lay it in a sandpit and have a model of an old shipwreck.  
 
Brave decision Mark, Licorne v.2 will be to your satisfaction I'm sure. 

Way to go Robbyn. I have yet to get one completed so it's good to see yours completely done.
 
Later Tim

Well I don't think that I can add to much to the "sorry to hear about it" comments that others have. You have worked and learned and most of the time I think "Enjoyed"  the ride to the point.
Good Luck on your restart. Please keep us posted in your next thread. Enjoy
 
Later Tim

Well, I hate to say it, but this log is now terminated.     I knew about a year ago that it might come this but not in the way I thought.   There's been a lot of lessons learned and I'll give some of them as they are also reasons for terminating this log.
 
However... I will be starting a new log on Licorne once a fresh supply of framing material arrives. 
 
Lessons learned:
 
1) Use only one set of drawings.  I started by using two and assumed that they were dimensionally the same.  Wrong!
 
2)  Be darn sure that the reference points are adhered to throughout the build.   A couple of points on this one.   Hahn's drawings use a 1/4 inch build board, I used 3/16 inch thick board.   My confusion came on as I thought his measurements went from the bottom of the build board up.. they didn't.  Only the frame drawings had the full build board thickness and I made a faulty assumption but apparently not consistently as I'm off as much as 1/16th of inch in places.
 
3)  Add reference lines in the cutting process of frames.  I took measurements after the frames were cut and was led astray by 2).
 
4)  What I found acceptable even two months ago in my build, I find unacceptable now.
 
5)  I've discovered better ways of using my power tools with time and usage.  
 
6)  Use only quality wood and reject out of hand anything less than quality.  There's places where I "made do" and I'm less than happy about it.
 
7)  Keep the fingers away from spinning tools -- like milling bits and saw blades.
 
8)  Even the master messes up.  I noticed in photos that there's errors where things just didn't go together right on Hahn's model and he tweaked it.
 
9)  It's a hobby dammit!!!!!!!!   Slow down and enjoy the trip not the destination.
 
Anyway, thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and I hope the next will be better.  It has to be since I learned from this one.
 
Lastly, expect more idiotic questions as I go... It's still a learning process.
 
See you on Licorne... Version II.

Sam, I looked up the masks, and found them available through Walmart (and many other places) with the organic fillters, the description of the product says it is good for paint too??? I was a bit surprised, I though they would cost more than the $35 price tag I saw. I am definitely going to invest in one as soon as I can though!
 
Thank you to everyone for the kind words, and for all the encouragement you gave me along the way.
 
IT IS OFFICIAL! I HAVE COMPLETED MY FIRST BUILD
 
Now, tomorrow I can answer the call of the Syren
 
After, of course, I clean up all the bits and left over pieces from the longboat.
 
I am also looking forward to finishing the running rigging on the SF II, Keith (themadchemist) was very kind and sent me the blocks from his kit since he upgraded to Chuck's, so now I have the parts to finish her off as well!





 
 
 
 

Thanks for sharing all of the pics with us.
 
Later Tim

Unfortunately we will not be able to give you access to the drawings.  This is one of the stipulations of the original drafters and the admin agrees.   There is really no need to redraw them as they are already drawn electronically and made available to model builders.   I dont understand why you would simply copy them in CAD since they are already done.
 
Sorry,  but we can not allow.   The only reason I can think of would be to have all parts available to laser cut or fabricate.  Something the original project was not intended for.  Plus there are no controls to ensure the parts are not sold or reused for other purposes.  It would not be fair to the folks who worked for years researching and drafting the electronic plans we already have.
 
Chuck 
Admin.

Randall,
 
these differences are quite normal. If you print out the parts on your deskjet, you will see that it makes a difference if you use landscape or portrait format.
They are very small (0.1) and are up to the manufacturing process of the paper. Another source of the porblem is the thikness of the line. If I remember right they are about 0.25mm. If you saw out a part and sand to the correct size, you see normally more than the half of the line.
 
0.25mm in sum are very small but if you glue more than one part together your get very quick a difference of 1 mm and more. I didn't count how many deadwoods I have casted off until I understand how to work with these problems:
 
Try to use allways the same paper and paper direction and sand your parts until the whole line is nearly invisble. And the rest is handcraft - so small differences are totally normal.

Because its a special project exclusively created for MSW.  We developed the plans and offer them to folks at no charge.  This forum was created to start a group that is working on them so ll logs and questions about its construction can be kept in one area.   This will help all participating members to compare notes and find information.
 
Chuck

Everybody -- after a long break I hope to be starting back in on this in the next week or so. Wish me Good Luck in getting back to it.
Found out a few days after Christmas from my daughter and her husband that my wife and I are going to be a Grandparents in August 2014 or sometime like that. I guess that I should try to finish something that they might enjoy someday rather than a lot of wood and kits sitting around.

Later Tim

Everybody -- after a long break I hope to be starting back in on this in the next week or so. Wish me Good Luck in getting back to it.
Found out a few days after Christmas from my daughter and her husband that my wife and I are going to be a Grandparents in August 2014 or sometime like that. I guess that I should try to finish something that they might enjoy someday rather than a lot of wood and kits sitting around.

Later Tim

It was a funny last months working and it was surprising. Here are the results of all the work: So close to each other the normal peoples eyes and yet far beyond!
 
To see and feel the differences I did some small montages. Just try to find out by yourselves, what is the old and what is the new:
 

 

 

 

 

 
And here the story was really beginning to take off,  to speak in the words of Buzz Lightyear: To HMS Victory and beyond!
 
Greetings Daniel

Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass.

The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks.

Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks.

Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops.

On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts.

But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ...

Once upon a time ...
 
Better saying in 2002 I started my Victory as a side project to my Soleil Royal. The next years I finished painting the sides, fixed the Stern and the galleries fixed the lower gundeck and worked on the side entry ports an the steps – even though I personally believe they weren´t there at Trafalgar, it is s toooooo nice detail to skip :-) Also fixed plenty of small details that I will still show here.
 
Came start of end of 2008 and I got my Soleil mostly finished and – more important – got my working space right. and this is where the craziness startet. So please give me  some time to slowly catch up and put you up to the story:
 
This was the state in end of 2008:
 

 
This is the state a mere 2 years later.
 

 
And now in 2013 ... still working on the lower deck ...
 




 
What happend before, in between and what is still to come will be part of this story ...
 
 
Greetings Daniel

Sorry Harry I did not intend to bore you,
 
it is in a way the months of research behind and the joy of developing and sharing the parts. It came out naturally as result of all those trials I did all along my way :-)
It was a tad more then 12 hours and will provide some help to modelers who just want do do some modeling without to much research. Even though this is still the kit section, the most important in modelmaking is not just to glue things together, but even more important is  to give a soul to a model - and this no etch part can help the modeler.
 
Greetings, Daniel :-)

Dessert

And as icing on the cherry :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I wish you a good night and a good digestion, also we hope you liked Mr Thor and his mighty hammer :-)
 

 
Daniel

Nice video, Thanks for sharing it. Well that's another place to try to visit when my wife and I are over there.
 
Later 42rocker

Nice, very nice.
 
Later 42rocker

I have completed my longboat. The rigging went quickly following the kit instructions. I did however expand the number of blocks and rigging sizes to try and give more contrast to the different sizes. I used Warner Woods blocks in 3 sizes-- 2.5, 3 and 3.5 mm. I used DMC cotton line dyed with alcohol based stains for the rigging line.  Line sizes were .008, .010, .012, .015 and .021 inch.
 

 
 
The base is made of curly maple with cheery trim. The dust cover was purchased at a custom plastic house. Our group purchased 8 of them to keep the cost down. It is 1/8 inch thick plexiglass.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
I enjoyed building this model and look forward to doing more of Chuck P's excellently designed kits.
 
Mike