augie

Fairing of the hull bulkheads has been completed.  I am happy to report that the safety timbers installed on the bulkhead 'horns' served me well and no pieces were broken during the sawdust festival.
 
The safety timbers have been removed and reserved for possible future use.
 
 

 
I will now begin to construct the 'shadow box' on the starboard side which will serve to show the exposed 'frames'.  This next photos shows the laser cut shadow box pieces and 20 identical 'frames', 10 of which have been doubled up.  The interior of the box will be painted black.
 

 
The laser burn on the side of the frames to be exposed shall be removed in a mini-fairing operation after they are installed (they are cut over sized).
 

Before I begin fairing the hull, I like to have a few bent planks available to check the flow of the planks.  To do this, I make up a quick bending jig (Chuck depicts this in the practicum).
 
I first trace an outline of the hull curvature from the plans.  I also prepare about a dozen screws:
 

 
The screws are wrapped in heat shrink electrical insulation.  As they will be holding wet planks to dry, if you don't do this the planks may discolor.
 
I then slightly exaggerate the traced curve (to allow for 'spring back') and transfer it to an old cutting board.  Holes are drilled and the screws firmly fixed in place.  Here's a soaked plank drying in the jig:
 

 
After a few hours, the desired curve has been 'set' in the wood.  This photo shows a second wet plank now drying while the first sits outside the jig now permanently curved:
 

 
The jig will hold up to 4 planks set vertically on edge all at the same time.  This is more then enough once planking begins.  It's easy, cheap and ......... it works!
 
I'll review this when actual planking begins.......in 2014    
 
 

The remaining two lower deck platforms have been installed and finished.  Here's the largest:
 

 
As per Chuck's suggestion, I've also painted the areas on the bulkheads immediately surrounding the platforms black.
I have also installed the safety timbers across the bulkhead uprights (whoops.....almost said 'horns).  These supports are 1/4" birch, which I have a ton of for aircraft use.  It's a snug fit and, hopefully, will support these fragile pieces until I get the hull faired:
 

 
With those supports she almost looks like a candidate for an additional deck.  I could make her a 54!!!!!!!  
 
No, 36 is more than enough.  Next step is fairing the hull so Colorado is now on 'Sawdust Alert'.
 

And now back to our regular programming 
 
She has 3 platforms to construct which represent the lower (sub-gun deck) deck.  They will be barely visible through some hatch openings.
 
Here is the completed first platform.  It is made of 23 planks of basswood, stained with a natural finish and given a coat of WOP.  The edges of the planks have simulated caulking using a #2 pencil on one edge only (I don't like the caulking too heavy).  I chose not to simulate the treenails on these lower decks.
 

 
Chuck states in the practicum that the lower decks were generally lighter in color then the main deck.  I intend to maintain that concept but we'll need to wait a while to see that effect (like about a year). 
 
The planks for the remaining 2 platforms have been cut and will go in very shortly.

Update time.
 
A series of laser cut 'fillers' is supplied.  Here are the bulkhead fillers which bolster the bulkhead former between the bulkheads:
 

 
If you look at the column on the left, these are 'extra' fillers that were supplied and labeled as mast fillers.  They are not in the practicum or depicted on the plans.  In discussing this with Ben (Trussben), I decided to install these at the appropriate locations.  I believe that they would be essential for a model that was to be fully rigged.
 
Additional fillers are supplied for the bow and stern:
 

 
Here, the bulkhead fillers (including the mast fillers) have been installed.  They were very accurately sized and needed only light sanding to remove laser burn:
 

 
Here's a closeup of the mast fillers which were installed at Fr 2, 7 and 13
 

 
Now for the stern and bow fillers:
 

 

 
Finally, just an overview:
 

 
There will be additional fillers added at the stern later on.  I don't believe the bow will require more.  The overall frame now is pretty stiff ---- and straight.  The bulkhead uprights are quite high and fragile.  I may brace these before continuing.
 
Next, we will be building three sub-gun deck platforms from basswood planks before we break out the sanding blocks for the ever popular hull fairing.
 
So far, so good
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A little progress to report (need to stay ahead of the buffalo herd  ).
 
The 16 bulkheads were removed from the laser cut sheets:
 

 
Note the cutouts on the starboard side of the two near the top center.  This will be an opening in the finished hull where the 'framing' will be exposed.  The laser cutting on these pieces was quite intense.  I lightly sanded them all around but have left some laser char as I find this helps me  later during the fairing process.  However, the slots on these bulkheads and also the bulkhead former were completely cleaned in order to obtain a secure glue bond.  The slots were also just a tad 'tight'.
 
Here, the bulkheads have been dry fit into the former:
 

 

 
The last photo shows that the alignment is pretty good for a dry fit:
 

 
Now we will square and level everything as we permanently glue in the bulkheads.  But the fish are calling so we'll be back in a day or so.  In the meanwhile ----
 
STAY THE COURSE     
 
 

Yes John ---- I noticed.  Only thing I can do is work faster (which is the opposite of what I had planned).......and try to outrun the fauna and flora    .
 
With that in mind, here's the latest update:
 
CHAPTER ONE   is completed.
 
I promised Sjors a picture of the rabbet so here we see it completed now near the stem:
 

 
I can't label the photo but I think it's easy to see how the laser drawn line on the bulkhead former (the lighter wood) has been slightly tapered down to meet the 1/8 x 1/16 rabbet strip and then the stem sits on that.  The result is we have a nice clean, uniform slot which is the rabbet.  This extends from stem to stern and shall be where the edge of the garboard plank (as well as the ends of the remaining planks) sit.  EASY --  and no carving involved.
 
In addition to the stem and keel now being fitted, here's a detail I like:
 

 
The keel uses 2 vertical scarph joints along it's length.  On the 1:1 ship, these were bolted together.  Here, we've simulated those bolts with #70 drilled holes filled with tinted wood putty.  This technique is similar to what I will be using for treenailing.
 
Here's a photo of where we currently stand.  Note that the false keel has been fitted and that the stem and keels have been stained.  Using Minwax products, I first pre-stain then stain using a mixture of 50% 'Natural' and 50% Light Oak.  This process will be used numerous times throughout the build.  I generally apply several coats of WOP later on.
 

 
Finally, things wouldn't be complete without introducing my infamous 'one size fits all' keel clamp ---- AKA the Dremel mini work stand.  It holds her firmly and straightly in place as we proceed.  I know SJORS also uses one but I got mine back when they were $ 9 (US) and I still had hair.     
 

 
Today is our 40th Anniversary so no more building is on the docket.  But the next step will be fitting the 16 bulkheads and to say I'm looking forward to that is an understatement.
 
All stay well
 

John-
 
I built the OcCre Ulises Tug for R/C back in 2009 (she's in the Gallery).  She has a plank on bulkhead hull.  Of course there's every possibility that they've modified the kit but I can't seem to find a fiberglass version.

Deservedly so, mate !!!!!

Very well done, mate ...... all around.  Thanks for sharing with us.

A year well spent, mate.

Very well done, mate ...... all around.  Thanks for sharing with us.

Very well done, mate ...... all around.  Thanks for sharing with us.

Hmmmmm......good excuse for some planking practice!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

Really nice, Dave.  Highest quality work and innovative to boot!

COMPLETED CHEERFUL BUILD....
 
After taking a day away from the shop following the ratline tying ordeal, I came back yesterday for a full day and made excellent progress. Early start this morning, and, after lashing the anchors down, I'm happy to report that she's done!
 
Starting with the overhead view....

 
Port side view....

 
Closer view of the shrouds....

 
Forward deck view....

 
Close up of the anchors....

 
BTW - Here's the way I cut out the anchor parts...

 
Always my favorite shot is the low bow view....

 
Note the new hard rock maple display base I created this morning.
Also, note that I managed to darken the bow stem and keel with golden oak stain. Much happier with the new look. The stain really made the tree nails pop.
 
So now I can turn my attention to the little "ugly duckling" decoy ship....
Actually, I'm beginning to be rather fond of that little dude. With two weeks to go, there's no telling what I might wind up with there.

Like you, I have a goodly amount of natural light coming into the shop.  But I also have both incandescent and flourescent lights up on the celilng so I can check things out under all 3 conditions or combinations.  It's not a really big deal as our ships are mainly to be displayed indoors but it does make a big difference with flying model aircraft.
 
Whatever you decide, put in more than you think you need.  You can always turn them off!  And try to have light coming in on both sides of the ship.

For some reason I have procrastinated securing the anchors. I've done everything else, but just bypassed this. Since I'm now working in the bow area it's time to bite the bullet and just do it! After that I pre rigged the Fore Lower Yard, painted it and glued it in place. I did not square it or rig it ....that's tomorrow.