Craigie65
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Everything posted by Craigie65
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Wow you really get a sense of her size with the shots of the sub deck and your arm! Will be watching this closely, as like many other people here I am saving my pennies. Mind you Santa might be good to me this year……….- 488 replies
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Oh my, choices! I do like 8 with the yellow, it has a slightly faded look. Perhaps if the rest of the boat was suitably weathered, but for me I have never perfected that art, or come anywhere close. I always feel that I have cheapened the model. Some people do it oh so well, but alas not me.
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Hi Glomar, I use Vallejo paints. I used the white primer under the red hull. For the red I used Vallejo’s Mecha colour dark red. Black and white, well…… I am sure you can work that out. I use matt so you will need to have a gloss undercoat for the decals or they are likely to silver. You can then spray matt over the top. I use Vallejo’s varnish for this job. Not familiar with elmers - a US brand? I use ronseal wood filler. On the question of sealers and filler yes they are different. I hand brush the varnish for non painted wood - again I just use Ronseal matt varnish - it is cheaper than the model varnishes and does just as good a job. It is difficult to describe how much thinner to use as it depends on the paint type you start with. I am assuming you are going to spray? If it is an airbrush paint such as Vallejo’s airbrush range then just a drop of the Vallejo thinner is enough. The mecha Colour below needed more as its a brush paint. needs to be thin enough to flow but not so thin that it pools on the subject being sprayed. I use Vallejo thinner - I like to keep to the same brand. I usually thin the primer too even though it says it is for airbrushes Follow the painting order in the instructions - lots of good information there.
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So much choice! thank you for posting your results. My eye is drawn to 8, I like the slightly browner hue. But I think any one of the three on your shortlist will work. I feel your pain on the wonky rudder, had to reattach mine three times 🙁
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Lots of lovely detail on these sheets. I particularly like the look of the veneer which will cover the stem.
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I used dark brown, not cocoa. I wonder if by mixing it ended up closer to the latter? Anyway I look forward to seeing the results of your experiments and will shamelessly purloin your good work 😉
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Would a 2 part kit save on postage? Or do the additional costs of splitting the kit outweigh any savings?
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Difficult choice! I was nervous that I would waste a lovely set of sails. In the end I plumped for RIT scarlet with dark brown in a 50/50 mix. RIT’s website gives formulae for different colours, of course screen and actual life can be very different. Mine turned out a bit more brown than I expected. I think for Erycina, I will go more red and go 60/40 or even 75/25.
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Your Nisha is turning out a smasher. I really like the colour contrasts you have gone with.
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Hi Glomar, It has been a long time since I researched airbrushes. There are a lot of excellent brands out there. I have an Iwata HP-C plus, but I would recommend you do a search here. I am sure there have been a few threads on which airbrushes people recommend. You can compare and match to your budget. You will need a compressor too. Like any new kit you need to practise first. To be fair you are using the airbrush to “colour in”, there are no complicated camouflage patterns here! Clean up is not too difficult - I use Vallejo airbrush cleaner between colours. At the end of each session you will need to clean the brush throughly- I use a solvent based cleaner and cleaning brushes. I don’t have a spray booth - I use an old box and wear a mask, not the coverings we have been using for covid but a proper painting/vapour respirator. The latter is a must if yo want to protect your lungs! Not sure of your point on the stain. I use a matt varnish.
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Looks great. I am thinking of borrowing some of your scheme for Erycina. I am thinking dark green for the engraved bulwarks and black wale and hull to the waterline. I have had mixed results using Carr’s blackening. You look to have pulled it of. I probably don’t spend enough time prepping the brass beforehand.
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HI Glomar, Good to read that you are enjoying the build - that is more than half the battle. I think you said you were going to paint the hull. As @James H said fill, sand, repeat. The first light coat of paint will show all the imperfections, so fill, sand repeat! I am sure this is the definition of insanity, but that is this wonderful hobby for you! Keep going!
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Been a while, life 😜 Relatively straightforward second planking. I worked my way down from the engraved outer bulwark until the counter was covered. Then I decided to work from the garboard up. I find it easier to fit steelers from the garboard up. This final picture shows a tricky little area. There is a gap at the counter where it meets the sternpost. Need to think how to make that look acceptable. Any suggestions are most welcome.
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Well done in getting this far! Remember this is your first build. All our models have a good side 😀. I think most of those gaps will be below the waterline and therefore painted over. So yo can fill the gaps - acrylic wood filler will be you friend here. You can thin it a little with water to make it easier to get into the gaps. Once dry a sand will left you see what bits you missed - and you will, we all do! So fill and sand again to get it smooth for a coat of paint. If you struggle to fit that little chip, then just fill it, it is definitely below the waterline.
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I too would suggest a coat of matt varnish to bring it together.
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First time I have seen your last picture. I often wondered if Pilgrim was the same as either Nisha or Erycina. By the looks of the transom and counter it looks not to be.
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Good luck with that! Have a look in the tips and techniques section. There is a section on making masts - pretty sure I have seen articles on using a drill as a lathe
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Hi, I think you have two options: mask off the mast at the step and use a file to cut the step by hand, or you can use a power drill as a lathe and use a file and sandpaper to cut the step I used option 2 for my first and second builds, then invested in a lathe for my Peggy build
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I am lucky enough to have an airbrush and compressor from my aircraft and armour modelling days. A great investment and was heavily used. The thing is, it is seldom needed for this hobby, Nisha was only the second time I have used it for a hull. The previous time was nearly a decade ago. I do use it occasionally for brass items when chemical blackening fails (which is often for me!). If you do go down the airbrush route, then gravity fed dual action is my gun of choice. I have tried the siphon fed version and found it too cumbersome. You will also need to get the right consistency of you chosen paint, I find even paints designed for airbrushing can need thinning. You need to ask yourself if the investment will be worth it. So I guess I would follow the Andrews’ advice and paint by hand. I find acrylics easier to brush, but that is probably just me, and to clean up after. The clean lines are all about good masking and thin coats - no heavy build up. I normally use tamiya’s masking tape, but lately have been using the blue stuff Vanguard is selling. The manual shows the painting sequence in good detail.
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Glomar, I see you got that tricky plank on pretty well. Yours looks more like the manual than mine. At the bow you might get away with shaping the offending third plank which seems to overlap the bow on its bottom corner. Perhaps with a knife rather than sanding. It is also worth sanding the rear of the plank where it meets the bow rabbet to make sure it sits in. It looks as if your sanding has nicked the bow. Can I suggest you protect the stem with some masking tape? As Andrew J pointed out you could do an all over paint job as he did on his excellent build.
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Totally agree, that this was the most difficult plank. What I could not get my head around was the prototype build had this plank neither on or below the one above. If you look closely it actually straddles the corner of the counter - I was convinced that I had put the bulwarks on too high.
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