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Craigie65

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Everything posted by Craigie65

  1. There is also an interesting version of halliard and tyes that don't use a sheeve. Rather a single block is tied either side of the mast. The Tyes start on the mast go through a double block attached to the centre of the yard and back up to the single blocks before running back down. The tyes end in a double block. The halliard arrangement is then attached to the double block All pretty complicated to describe. Buy the book and see page 39!
  2. Brian - do you mean Lennarth Petersson's book "Rigging period ship models"?
  3. Gary Lennarth Petersson's - Rigging Period ships gets me most of the information I need. It has good drawings of the topsail tyes with the double to single block. Although the main topsail yard does not run through a sheeve in the diagram I am looking at
  4. Disaster for Scotland! Dropped my ship down the stairs I was taking it to the utility room to clean it with white spirit after a sanding session on the sheer rail, when butter fingers let it slip at the head of the stairs. It landed on the stem then stern before sliding down the remaining stairs on the keel. Damage: part of the stem snapped off and two stern supports broken. Luckily not much else damaged. So a bit of glue and care and actually she is not in bad shape.
  5. Dave I do have a build log up and running what I need to do is add a link to it. in the meantime if you search for me and Granado you should find some pics etc
  6. Hi Just found your log. A huge task that you are doing so well in managing. Are you "weathering" the new parts to blend in? I can see masks in the background of you pictures - do you have another build on the go?
  7. Thanks Rob. I think I will send the Admiral shopping or visit the local Hobbycraft store
  8. Some great tips here - where can you buy bees wax in the UK?
  9. Thanks Timmo I'm thinking with the deck and cannon in place they may be hard to clean up from the inside. Then again I am not sure they will be seen.......
  10. Glad to hear it. I am about to spend a fair bit of time in London over the next 5 weeks. I wonder what will rub off on me? Gin probably
  11. Mog I really like the "feel" of your build. It reminds me very much of the ships you see in many stately homes here in Scotland - an ancient and solid feel. I don't know if that was your intention but I really like it.
  12. Brain, True scale colour does vary from real life. Copper plating on a vessel was only that brilliant when brand new, but most seem happy with it. Personally I think if it looks right then it is. You can always tone it down with a satin coat if you think it is too bright
  13. Need to find out how to add a link to my signature. Not easy on an iPad. In the meantime I am building the Granado if you want to look in
  14. Brian confession time - I was trying to use a quote from Andy who posted the link - sorry Andy! Norman Alclad have their own black primer which sprays beautifully, dries fast and as Andy points out - nice and shiny Mind you I have never tried it on wood - might need a coat of another paint to seal?
  15. Thanks Joe for the kind comments Just doing the spirketting just now. Busy 5 weeks coming up at work including a fair bit of time away from home. So output is going to slow down for a bit. Thank goodness for a winter break in my sport which means I might get Saturday back, unless the Admiral mentions those dreaded words - "Christmas shopping"
  16. Hi Timmo, Just putting in the spirketting at the moment and thinking ahead to the hawse holes. The instructions would seem to have you drill them late on in the process yet there is a picture of the forecastle sans deck that clearly has the hawse holes drilled out. I don't know if you have reached that stage but would be interested in your thoughts. In the meantime I am going to look at the plans to see if there is a hidden tip there.
  17. Lucky you To be honest I was way too sore after playing two games of hockey yesterday. So after a soak in the tub I snoozed on the couch will try to move my Granado forward today
  18. Actually, I remembered this stuff: http://alclad2.com/ Bar none, the best metal finish on the market. Provided you follow the instructions explicitly! I have only used the aluminium versions of Alclad2 on model aircraft. You really do get a very realistic metal finish. I would hope that their gold also works. One disadvantage is that it needs to be sprayed. Lots of masking! Second disadvantage is that metal paints tend to show up every imperfection if the surface is large; although I imagine that should not be a problem for you Casey? Brian I like the idea of gold leaf - Is it expensive?
  19. Goes without saying that a black undercoat will help the gold shine. Vallejo has some excellent metallics but they need thinning.
  20. Thanks Richard. I think a bit more light is needed for the pictures. Also having to compress each photo to post doesn't help
  21. Okay part two - During Strictly Start of the second planking. I wanted to try to use some of the techniques that I picked up on the forum. Some success but I struggle to vision the layout of all the planks and drop planks. I think I was trying to look too far ahead: but I have a better picture in my head for the next build - whatever that may be? And that is the first planking below the wale After this shot I used a bit of dark filler and after a sand down it looks okay - to be honest it will disappear under a coat of white paint. And the inner gunport patterns and planking above the wale all done. I have lined the ports without lids and will be lining the ports with lids shortly. The sweep ports need a bit of work to get the right size. Of course I could not resist to see how the forecastle would look The camber does not look right at all so a bit of sanding is needed - later!
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