Craigie65

There is not kit supplied equivilent. I did have a few laser etched decks when first released as an optional extra, but these were on custom sized wood and very expensive, and very costly in the end due to most of the sheets being unsuitable for purpose.
 
I do however buy large quanties of 1x150x1000mm limewood, which I use for all engraved decks now, so I thought I would again offer the Indy pre made decks, albeiit in more separate parts than before due to width limitations.

For those that may be interested, I have produced a new file for the Indy laser engraved limewood deck set. It will be on 4 separate 1x150x800mm limewood sheets, as seen on the drawing.  The decks have had to be split down the centre, due to width restrictions.
 
I should have three sets ready for early next week, and have a new batch of limewood arriving in September, so can do more if there is a call for them.
 
Speedy printed stuff arrived today, so that's all ready and in stock. (Even has a little binnacle now...)
 
But still waiting for my damn Trial Cutter PE......

Thanks Kevin, Andy, and Alistair, and for the 'likes' - much appreciated.
@ Andy - the jury is still out on the  coppering question.
@ Alistair - don't know about a masterpiece, but I'm fairly satisfied that the planking will be good enough to give me the  'unadorned' option.
 
Post Forty-eight
 
Planking completion.

1364
Two strakes to go and the hull is re-marked for the last time to shape the planks.

1365
The final strake.

1372
Last plank and completion.

1374

1375

1376
Complete. 🍾
 
Altho’ it feels I’ve spent a long time doing the second planking it has only been 25 active working days including the drop planks and Top and butt wale planking.
Not very long in overall terms for a build of this magnitude.
The work does involve several re-markings of the strake lines on the hull to keep things on track, the transfer of each reference point on the planks cut to scale, and the necessary tapering and spiling to get the fit.
There were failures along the way but the incidence of scrapping planks was thankfully low.

1380

1381

1382

1390
Onto the sanding and cleaning up the hull.
 
B.E.
12/07/2023

 
 
 

I’ve fitted the outer bulwark, then the engraved deck which goes on very well with a little sanding at the edges and then the inner bulwarks.
 
Soaking, clamping and pinning the middle bulwark has very slightly distorted the middle bulwark meaning that the gunports on the middle bulwark no longer match up exactly with the gunports on the inner and outer bulwarks. The difference isn’t much, but it’s not as exact as it would be if I hadn’t soaked it. I’ve gently sanded the sides and bottom of the gunports and may need a tiny amount of filler to get clean edges for painting. I haven’t sanded the arches yet as I don’t want to weaken them. 


The inner lower counter is fitted and then first planking starts. Grecian’s lines are very gentle to plank with lots of bulkheads to guide the shape and I barely need to edge bend. Possibly the easiest boat to first plank I’ve built so far - and maybe I’m getting a little better at it. 
 
As the instructions say, lots of tapering is essential at the bow and no tapering with some stealers at the stern. I started doing the planks in halves, but it wasn’t really necessary on this boat. 
 
The structure is so robust I have no fear of warping the keel by planking one side at a time. I’ve just done the port side so far. 

After some initial sanding. 
Apologies for the orientation of some of the photos, I can’t fix them on my iPhone. 
 
The only slight concern I have is where the counter meets the planking. I need to sand some more, but with hindsight maybe should have taken more off the underlying stern bulkhead structure when fairing. 

After 182 eyebolts, the gundeck lined, painted and bolts in. Everything fit nicely.
 

OK, I have just finished what I need to regarding building up the new Speedy hull.
 
These pics will show what has changed. The old Speedy required planking all the way to the top of the bulwarks, also the inner bulwarks. 
 
The new version is completely pre cut from the main wale up, with spirketting added for the inner bulwarks, plus engraved planking and treenail detail for all surfaces. All channels, inner bulwark belaying racks and cleats now slot and glue into place, in pre cut slots, saving the need for pinning and gluing.
 
Please bear in mind that the model shown has no real finishing, no varnish etc. It was used just to add new pictures to the revised manual.
 
I will now spend the rest of the week updating the manual, ready to send to printers, and next week, start cutting the new sheets, so I hope to have this re released in around 2 weeks.

Hey Dan,
Found your log and will pull up the proverbial chair.
Looking good so far, she has really sharp lines.
On the coppering, my vote would be for the pre cut plates.  Don’t fancy having to cut all those individually from a roll of tape……
 

Despite working the weekend, fortunately not to bust, I completed 4 more rows. Needed to put 2 stealers on both side to continue the curve but not easily seen. Sanding as I go first with 60 grit then 240. Once done planking will sand lightly with 120 to 240 to 320. Use some cyano and sand lightly to fill the holes/ gaps  for now.


 

Deck Planking – Very Slow Progress
As reported a few weeks ago I have been incapacitated with an ongoing prolapsed disc. The back pain did relocate to the outer and front part of my right thigh which indicated I had developed meralgia paresthetica (nerve entrapment as a result of the disc prolapse) and is caused by compression of the lateral femoral cutaneous nerve that provides sensation to the skin covering your thigh. Thankfully it has been warm and sunny so I have spent a great deal of my time sat in the garden developing a nice tan and doing the exercises provided by the physio to help. Over the last four days the pain has finally started to subside, and I no longer need to take the oral morphine for the pain relief although there is still a tingling sensation in the right thigh. As a result I have now been able to return the shipyard however I am keeping my sessions short for the time being, limiting each session to no more than 20 minutes with plenty of rest between each session.
 
I am using a 3 butt shift pattern for the deck, with a plank length of 100mm, but I'm not using the shift pattern around the central section cutout area. I have also made some templates which can be loaded into my plank cutting jig (see post #145) for cutting the shorter planks (25mm, 50mm and 75mm).

 
I started by planking the area around the central deck section moving outward toward right-hand bulwarks. To ensure I get the eyebolt holes drilled in the right position I used a simple template, as shown below.

 
To ensure I get the best possible join between planks I add an indication mark to the back of the plank to show where the next plank should be orientated so the two planks are fitted end to end with the common cut line.

 
The next 100mmL plank has just been cut I (and is still in the jig) as is ready be glued in place.

 
Once I have cleaned up the edges I apply a coat of titebond to the underside of the plank and then it is placed in on the deck. I have found it useful to use some offcuts to hold the glued plank in place whilst the next plank is being prepared. The 3 butt shift pattern can also be seen in the photo below.

 
I am not adding a margin plank to the first part of the bow area, as this will not be visible once the forecastle deck has been added.

 
The stern area is not as neat as I would have liked but again it will not be visible once the upper deck sections have been added.

Fun times ahead as I will need to add the cut-outs for the deck cannons.
 
Once the deck planking is complete it will need a good scrapping with a sharp blade before the WOP is added.
 
 

Did the port upper area today

health is far more important, she will still be there when you feel you can progress her

good evening everyone
day 112-2
 
in the past week the progress on indy slowed down a bit, but the big garden work is coming to an end, just two ton of gravel to move (well 1800 KG)  
 
the planking is nearly complete, still more tidying, sanding filling and varnish required, but it looks quite tidy now, the poop and some of the gratings were placed for the photo
 

Some sanding and filling, ready for the next round of planking. I think a nice Riesling would help on the promenade deck. I am tempted to paint the lower hull white as it looks good but as I opted for the real copper tiles I will continue with coppering later/
 

Post Forty-two
 
A bit of a set back
What I feared may happen with a hull this size has happened.
Manoeuvring to check the lining off resulted in the hull toppling off its support with the stern crashing against the wall.

1185
The stern frame bracing has buckled, and one of the mdf stern frames split.

1186
The Upper stern pattern above the gallery has been split.

1187

1188
I’m bloody annoyed with myself letting this happen, but pva and clamps should sort the issue.  
 
Not a good start to the day.☹️
 
B.E.
16/06/2023

Excellent work.
Nice touch with the ensign.

I wonder if I am the only one who gets anxious and hesitant when it comes to doing some new tasks involved in the build.  Woolding for example, using paper and string seemed like a bigger deal than it turned out to be, at least for the bowsprit.  Making all the little cleats was not fun, and the instructions seem to be getting a little less comprehensive as I am starting to contemplate the masts and yards.  Attaching the jibboom to the bowsprit doesn’t appear to be described in the manual or plans…and in the AOTS it shows it is attached with a pin, but I have seen some build use rope lashing.  WTH?  Anyway, I will see what I can find and pick an appropriate technique.  I have about completed all the lathe work and need to touch up some of the masts and yards, but I am forging ahead now that I am back on the island.  Thanks for stopping by and offering any thoughts and advice!!!

 

 

Deck Planking – Started
My ongoing bulging disc is still limiting my time in the shipyard to small sessions. That said I have been able to start planking the gun deck.
 
I started with fitting a margin plank to the stern. I then decided to plank the central section of the gun deck from stern to bow. I have not utilised a butt shift pattern due to the short plank lengths required between the various deck openings in the central gun deck area but I will use a 3 butt shift pattern for the rest of the gundeck.
 
As each central gun deck section had been planked the various gun deck openings were opened and the associated deck items checked. I have included a set of photos showing the progress I have made over the last four days. You will note my progress is slow, but the planking is looking OK so far.

 
The trickiest central area to plank is the stove base to the bow area. As can be seen in the next photo after some careful measurements one of the planks has had the various cut-outs added.
 
The plank is then test fitted with the deck items in place.

 
 

Probably not far off with 100mm, I am sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
Given the deck planking will have a shift pattern I find it easier to work with a length that easily divides by the number of shifts.  

Probably not far off with 100mm, I am sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
Given the deck planking will have a shift pattern I find it easier to work with a length that easily divides by the number of shifts.  

Your making excellent progress Dan, not much further to go! 👏

Bowsprit rigging complete except for the bowlines to the yards. 
Main and driver booms rigged plus the spreadsail yard. 
That just leaves the following: three more yards, the anchors and refitting the swivel guns. Plus some touching up of paint. 
 
Inspired by the American flag added to Grecian by James H, I’ve bought a period white ensign from BECC for Alert and will attempt to get it to hang as elegantly. It’s not as crisply printed or as good quality as the Grecian’s American flag,  but at 12 x 7 cm I think the Vanguard ensigns would be too big for a little ship like Alert. 

 

It also has a section on " The British Naval Cutter "

I believe Chuck mentioned it was one of his references when designing Cheerful.
 
It's about as fore-and -aft as you can get.

Craigie - thanks for the great recommendation, I’ve ordered the Rigging Period Model Ships book. I’m a few builds yet away from Speedy / Flirt.
 
Gregory - thanks I’ll likely order the Fore-and-Aft book too. I see that it has a section on an American schooner which could be useful for Grecian. From my time sailing modern fire and aft rigged yachts I broadly understand the fore and aft part of the rig on Alert, but much less the squaresails on her mast. 
 
Nils - thank you for the encouragement! 
 
 
 
 

good evening everyone
Thank you for comments and likes
 
day 100-2
 
well the after cabin is nearly to be buttoned up, the painting of pellow is pants i know but it helps with the sense of scale, yes he has wellie boots and not shoes but he is looking at the charts for dryer lands to keep his feet dry
 





 

Gregory,
You are absolutely right for a cutter, but I think Speedy and Flirt are square rigged?