Craigie65

Thanks Andrew, enjoying following your Trial build. So impressed that Chris changed the name for your gun brig base to “Sparkler” - now that’s customer service!
 
Theo - thanks too
 
The last day on Adder has posed some interesting challenges of my own making. 
 
I decided to fit the plywood false deck before the aftermost bulkhead part 153 to help ensure that the bulkhead was at the right angle. So far, so good. 
 
I’ve fitted 8 of these plywood decks to VM models so I know the drill, but on Adder I snapped it down the centre line. I could not fit the two parts so that they were aligned leading me to think that the structure below must be out of alignment. 

I contacted Chris suggesting that I’d better start again and buy the MDF sheets and plywood deck again from him. Instead, he told me that once the deck is split it’s hard to get the halves aligned, but there’s a neat trick to achieve this: taping the two halves together before they are fitted and then adding them, letting the glue dry and removing the tape. 
 
This I did and it worked very well. 
I clamped a flat piece of scrap wood on top to ensure the central join stayed flat and painted diluted PVA over all the joints below. 
I also added most of the MDF pieces that form the bow structure. 
 
Then it was time to fit the rear bulkhead 153, but as can be seen below there’s a small overhang of the false deck over the end of the keel and the longitudinal formers parts 31. 
Checking vs the plans, this results in the bulkhead being at the wrong angle and the false deck needs to be sanded back in line with the keel and parts 31. The gap between the bulkhead and the keel shouldn’t be there in the photo below (unglued). 
If you’re following the sequence in the instructions, this will need to be sanded back before the deck is fitted as the bulkhead will already be in place. I checked all this with Chris and he told me that he usually makes these type of parts over long to cover all eventualities, better to have too much than too little.

Now in the right position and back on track below. 

Chris thanks so much for your help. 
 
Whilst the glue was drying I started work on the cannons and carronades. The 3-D printed resin barrels are very high quality, but on the carronades the cavity for the barrel is shallow and if you look closely you can see the flat bottom ~1mm inside the lip of the barrel. I saw on someone’s build log that they had drilled these a little deeper, so decided to do so too. The barrels are surprisingly strong and easy to drill. In the photos below the right hand barrel has been drilled to ~2.5x as deep. It’s grey because of the resin and the inside of the barrel will need to be painted black again. 

Time for working on "Trial" has been severely curtailed recently with another DIY project for the Admiral and a brush with some nasty Cold/flu/Covid thingy 🤢, but on the mend now.
 
With the time I have had I have been experimenting with the dummy gun port I made and trying out rigging the little 3lb's, as the guns are pretty small I wasn't sure I would add more than the breeching rope, but I found some tiny printed blocks and thought I would have a go.  Breeching ropes are 0.5mm which looking at the available tables seems to near enough scale, and the tackle is 0.1mm thread.
 
I used a shim on the floor of dummy gun port to keep the muzzle about one foot (scale) inboard to measure the length of breeching rope I needed to make.  After that I did a dry run for the traditional way I have seen breeching ropes done; gun run out and breeching rope loose on the deck and tackles rigged to their blocks and ready for the falls to be coiled on deck also.  I think that will go okay, the purists among you will be horrified there are no hooks on these tiny blocks, but at the scale that is way beyond my skills, so I just tied the blocks to the rings - just make me walk the plank now! 
It has always been my intention to have the larboard battery in the "ready to fire" state with a few gun crew scattered among them and the starboard guns with the rig as stowed, I found this thread a very useful reference.
So this is what I attempted, as the last couple of picture show.  The ropes look a little "glossy" in the pictures as the matte medium I used to seal them was still drying.  I also added a little lead patch for the touch hole on the stowed gun. - One down eleven to go! 
 
Thanks all for your comments and likes.  Regarding the offending belay pins, I will have to look into how these could be replaced without damaging the model too much, if I can source/make something more acceptable, I certainly don't want to risk anyone's eyesight with my log! 🤓
 
With things as busy as they are at the moment it might be another two, three weeks before updates.  Until then thanks all!  Also waiting for the courier to deliver my VM HMS "Adder"! 😁

Good morning everyone
Main mast Back stays
at last i am starting to get some quality time on the build all the main backstays are fitted

 

, and last night the Main Topsail Yard Tye went in


Apollo Ruth and Dobbie, 3 loves of my life

 

Fore Topsail Mast Ratlines
I am now in the process of adding the ratlines to the fore topsail mast. The first task was to make a template and then clamp in place. In the photo below I have already added a few ratlines. As explained in previous posts I prefer to add every 5th ratline first, as indicated by the 0's on the template. I then add all the 1's before completing the task by adding all the 2's

It took me a couple of hours to complete one side. A couple of the deadeye seizing's could have been done better (i.e. the middle and right hand end ones) but I can live with how they look which is all that matters. Work is now progressing to complete adding the ratlines to the other side.

 

So  I had a  go  at some  wool  smoke  -   I  added  a  small   blob - ball type   bit  on the  breech  and   tried a bit  coming out of the muzzle,   but I wasn't  convinced  as it just  looked like  wool,  so  I  removed  the  muzzle  bit  but also had to  cut away  the  bayonet  (not a  problem as  some  did not have their bayonets  fixed)   I also  cut away  at the  smoke  on the  breech  till there was only the smallest  bit  left,   this  is  about as far  as  I would  go   -  just cant make it  life like.
 
OC.

Morning all,  think I found out the secret  to getting a  nice flat finish  with my  Lucky Ultra Matt   varnish,  after a   thorough  shake  (my arms are still  shaking now  lol)   I  put a  small  amount  in a  dish  then  after  loading the  brush  I  removed most  of it  against the  dish  wall,  then  I  removed even more  on some  tissue,   then when I ran the  brush  over the figure  it was  like  just adding a  slight  wet  finish  in a  really thin  layer   -  yep  it  seemed to have worked.
 
And  long last  a  few  pics  -  sorry for  the poor  quaility   quick  shots  in the  kitchen.
 
OC.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- eight.
 
Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part One)
This is the one boat example that I may include on the skids of my Indy.
I think the Pinnace is the nicest looking boat type and my go to for display on a ship.
 
I have built an example of every boat type in the Vanguard range, and my detailed logs are elsewhere on MSW, most recently on my Sphinx log.
 
My approach in building the Pinnace will be as previously recorded, so I’ll include less detail with this log. 
There are a few areas of approach to building these bijou boats that may be of use to others.
 
Setting up the frames.
These are delicate parts and I like to protect the framing, and I add support pieces to protect the bow and stern.

3981
These slotted strips protect the very delicate stem by avoiding the risk of flex when fitting the first strakes.

3979
At the stern the transom is secured square.

3982
This is a weak part and support boards are added to reduce any risk of flex during fairing or attaching the planking strakes.
 
The planking strips are nominally 2mm x 0.8mm and as I found with the Sphinx Pinnace, they have very little excess in length to accommodate edge bending which applies very near the bow end.

3984
Both lateral and edge bending and also a degree of taper is required to maintain the flow of planking. These features were applied once the first plank had been installed.

3988
The first four planks fit into the stem rabbet, followed by the addition of the Garboard plank. For the Garboard I used a wider 3mm strip.

3993
Planking continues to completion.
The final spiled plank that sits below the round of the hull is traced onto Tamiya tape and cut out of the 0.8mm Pear fret.

3998

3999
Three days’ work and the planking is completed, albeit still in a rough state.
This will be cleaned up before moving onto the next stage.
 
B.E.
16/03/2024

Early to bed, early to rise...
She's shiny!
Decided at the last minute to use Alclad rather than experiment on her with the Mr Color super silver 2. I'll experiment with the Mr Color silver when I paint the fuel tanks, racks and rocket mounts. Wheels, and UC too.
I'm satisfied with the way the Alclad turned out.
 
 

Mast rigged with the various blocks
 

 
Pikes and axes at the ready
 

Fore Topsail Shrouds
I am currently working on installing the shrouds for the fore, main and mizzen topsail masts.
 
I have added the shrouds to the fore topsail mast, and the lanyards are now ready to be tied off, as can be seen in the photo below.

I started the process by making all the shroud pairs for all three topsail masts. The shrouds were run through some beeswax which was then melted using a hairdryer  and were then left hanging with a slight weight to help get rid of all the kinks.

It will then a case of adding the shrouds to each of the topsail masts and adding the deadeyes.
 
Starting with the fore topsail mast all the shrouds were added. As then were run in I used some clamps to keep them in the approx positions.
 
The deadeyes have been added to the first shroud pair and the lanyards threaded in the next couple of photos.

I am using my tried and tested method to adding the deadeyes. The jig prongs are inserted into the platform deadeyes. The shroud is then feed down through the top guides and through the bottom hole. A clamp is used to apply some tension to the shroud.

Next a needle with some seizing thread is passed through the top hole in the jig. This should ensure that each shroud deadeye is set to the same position above the platform deadeye once the lanyards have been added.

It is then an easy job to make the loop the loop. A deadeye can then be placed in the shroud and the free end is then be pulled which closes the loop around the deadeye. As the lanyards are been run in I am pleased that the shroud deadeyes seem to be nice and level with each other. I will need to make the final adjustments when the lanyards are tied off.

HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne - 1763
1:64
Vanguard Models
Part Number - VM - 16
Available from Vanguard Models for £149.00 (around €175.00)
 
 
History
 
From the publisher’s website: 
 
HM cutter was a 6-gun cutter of the Royal Navy. She served in the English Channel for her entire career, operating against smugglers. She was sold in 1784. Sherbourne was built at Woolwich Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright Joseph Harris, to a design by Sir Thomas Slade, and was launched on 3 December 1763, having cost £1,581.8.9d to build and fit.
 
Sherbourne was commissioned under Lieutenant John Cartwright, later to become a prominent parliamentary reformer, and was assigned to support the work of the Board of Customs by operating against smugglers in the English Channel. Cartwright commanded Sherborne from 7 December 1763 to 14 May 1766. His area of responsibility was the South Coast of England, including Dorsetshire and Devon. His brother George, when at loose ends, went with him in Sherborne on a cruise out of Plymouth to chase smugglers.
 
Lieutenant Christopher Raper succeeded Cartwright in 1766 as Sherbourne’s commander for the next three years. Between 1769 and 1777 the cutter was commanded successively by Lieutenants Stephen Rains, Thomas Rayment and Thomas Gaborian, all the while remaining based in the Channel. Her final commanders were Lieutenant Arthur Twyman, from September 1777 until May 1778, and then Lieutenant Arthur Hayne until September 1779. She was then laid up.
In 1783 Sherbourne participated in William Tracey’s unsuccessful attempt to raise HMS Royal George, which had sunk in Spithead in 1782. Although the dockyard rated Sherbourne as unfit for service, Tracey conducted some repairs and she was of some use.
 
She was finally sold at Portsmouth on 1 July 1784.
 
Tons burthen – 85
Length – 54 ft 6 in (16.6 m)
Beam – 19 ft (5.8 m)
Complement – 30
Armament – 6 x 3-pounder guns + 8 swivel guns
 
The Kit
 
Designed by Chris Watton this kit is aimed for the novice builder.
 

 
This skill level is defined as follows (text from publishers website):
 
"NOVICE: We have pitched this level at the absolute beginner, whilst still providing a good basis for more experienced modellers to make their own individual mark on the project. Kit design and techniques are all aimed to make this project as easy for you as possible, guiding you in every way to create a successful and beautiful model that you can be rightly proud of."
 
The kit includes (text from publishers website):
 
 
Laser cut and engraved parts in MDF and pear wood. Laser etched and cut lime wood deck with treenail detail 2 sheets of photo etched brass High resolution 3D-printed parts. Double planked hull in limewood for first planking and pear wood for second planking. Walnut dowel for masting. Multiple sizes of both black and natural rigging thread along with all necessary blocks and deadeyes Comprehensive, full colour instruction manual, along with NINETEEN plan sheets which include all masting and rigging drawings. The rigging drawings are designed to allow the novice to successfully complete a rigged ship. Features laser-engraved treenails on both inner and outer bulwarks.  
Dimensions of the finished build:
 
Length Overall – 512mm
Hull length – 284mm
Height Overall – 484mm
Width Overall – 202mm
 
The Box
 
The kit comes in a sturdy nice looking box covered with an A3 printed product label which is affixed to the lid of the box.
 

 
Inside the box everything is very well protected by either plastic bags or wrapped in bubble foil. None of the parts arrived damaged, warped or bended.
 
Instructions / Plans
 
After opening the box you will see the instruction manual and the plans:
 

 
The instruction manual is of high quality paper, fully coloured and has a spiral binding which is very practical if space on your workbench is limited. In addition you always can download the instructions from the website and have it ready on your iPad or other digital device.
 

 
In the manual you have step by step instructions from the very beginning up to the rigging as well as a lot of useful informations regarding e.g. recommendations for tools, colors and glues you can use to get the best out of your kit.
 
 
 
The instructions are supplemented by 19! A3 plans. Some examples of informations you can get from them:
 
Overview of the laser cut parts:
 
 
 
Detailed drawings of the model, parts and assembly:
 

 
Parts needed for the shown assembly phase, clearly marked so you can identify them easy and fast:
 

 
Some detailed instructions on how to assemble parts with all the measurements given:
 

 
And finally the rigging instructions in such a high level of detail that rigging this model will be pure fun and excitement ...
 
From leading the threads through the blocks ...
 

 
 
and where to belay them ...
 

 
and last but not least ... how to do the belaying ...
 

 
 
 
The Parts
 
As mentioned above, all parts are well packed and secured.
 

 

 
From top to bottom we first have the display stand made of clear acetate protected with a thin foil;
 

 
The stand has two engraved nice looking name plates ... 
 

 
Next there are three bundles of wood:  Lime wood for the first planking, pear wood for the second planking and walnut dowels for the masts,  yards and other parts like the hand pumps:
 

 
The wood strips and dowels are of high quality, no scratches, bendings or fuzzy edges as the macro shots show:
 
  
 
All the rest of the parts is precut/prefabricated.
 
Laser Cut Sheets - Pear Wood
 
Upper sheet: parts for the anchors, stern frames, keel and prow
Lower Sheet: parts for keel and prow, rudder, stern counter and transom parts, companionway as well as some fittings ...

 
Upper sheet: Rails, transom parts and counter, main wales and gunwales,
Lower sheet:  Rudder parts, channels, pin rails, timberheads, catheads, gun carriages, gratings and more fittings
 

 
Upper sheet: Bulwark patterns and port lids
Lower sheets: Left: Mast caps, posts for the swivel guns, pawl posts and bitts  / Right: Spirketting planks, bulwark ladders and  tiller arm

 
The cuts and engravings are really impressive:
 
 
 
Treenail details:
 
  
 
 
Photo Edged Parts
 
There are two small sheets with photo edged parts.
 
Upper sheet: Mainly parts for the Chain plates, handpumps, eyebolts, hooks, belaying pins, stanchions, swivel guns, gun carriage center booms, anchor rings and lower boom cradle
 
Lower sheet: horse shoe plates, fish plates, rudder straps and depth markings  
 

 
As well as all of the prefabricated parts the level of detail and quality of manufacturing is very very good:
 

 
 
MDF Parts
 
There are two MDF Laser Cut sheets mainly holding the parts for the skeleton.
 
2mm sheet: Building cradle, deck beams, false keel and keel/bow parts, support patterns, locking pins and the lower deck

 
3mm sheet: Bulkheads
 

 
 
Plywood Parts
 
There are three parts out of plywood. These are the left and right side bulwarks as well as the sub deck.
 
The bulwarks have markings on it to help align them as well as to ease the process of fitting the bulwark patterns:
 

 
This image shows the sub deck and the engraved lime wood deck which will be glued on top of it:
 
 
Again the level of detail and the manufacturing quality is astonishing:
 

 
 
Fittings and Materials
 
These are provided in a little box so nothing is rolling around in the big box.
 
 
 
All items are clearly marked and waiting for assembly in their plastic bags ...
 
There are 3 sizes of natural coloured thread (0.1mm/0.25mm/0.5mm) and 4 sizes of black coloured threads (0.25mm/0.5mm/0.75mm/1.0mm). The threads are of good quality as well as all parts in this kit:
 

 
The kit comes with wooden blocks and deadeyes in different sizes: Thimble blocks (2.5mm), Deadeyes (3.5mm), single blocks (3, 4 and 5mm) and double blocks (4mm)
 

 
The 3 D printed parts are the 3 pounders, swivel guns, anchors, the chimney and the main winch drum:
 

 
Finally we have the anchor hawse rope, parrel beads, brass pins and a small piece of black cardboard for the anchor stock:
 

 
 
Conclusion
 
It is hard to believe that you can get this kind of quality for so little money. The manufacturing quality is of the highest standard across all components of the kit.
 
Following the instructions step by step and making use of the plans should enable everybody to achieve the goal of finishing the build of an extremely well looking ship model with a high level of detail regarding its size.
 
As there are a lot of prefabricated parts the potential for frustration should be very low and that's what I am looking for as a beginner.
 
Just looking at the parts and the really good instruction manual as well as the plans is so much fun that you can draw all your motivation from it alone to start and finish the model. In addition the build time will not be hundreds of hours so you can see the light at the end of the tunnel as soon as you start your build.
 
If you are a beginner this kit will for sure get you addicted to ship modelling. For experienced modellers it must be pure fun as well and if this will be your first Vanguard Models ship kit I think it will not be your last one.
 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- seven
 
Mast Making.
Starting with the Mainmast:-
For the reduced height masts I firstly need to work out the relative positions of the wooldings, iron bands, and the point where the side cheeks and front fish terminate.

3967
I replaced the Pear laser cut cheeks and fish with Boxwood versions to better match the Ramin masts.
 
The iron bands need to be fitted before the cheeks are put into place. With a 12mm ø mast my go to use of heat shrink tubing will not work, so it’s back to thin strips of black card.
 
Once the cheeks are fitted the remaining iron bands need to be applied, they sit beneath the Front fish. I work the bands so that the join will also be beneath the Fish.

3970
The Fish is then fitted

3972

3973

3974

3976

3977
The saddle for the Driver Boom was also replaced with a Boxwood version.

3978

3971
The woolding remains to be done, but I am out of the correct line sizes.
 
B.E.
12/03/2024
 

Thanks everyone for the kind comments and likes!
 
Well, I think my grassy field is finished. Overall very happy with the way things turned out.
 

 
There's a nice variation in the colour of the green grass , and I've added some patches of burnt grass to add some further colour changes in select areas. In the "runway" area I added more green grass towards the edge, gradually lessening the amount as I worked towards the hypothetical centre.
 
All the characters have had their bases removed and a length of 0.012" stainless steel wire inserted, usually into one leg, and then into the scenery base, so they can free stand securely. I haven't added the mechanic yet, he will be glued to the trestle after I add a bit of weathering.
 

 
I connected the refueller to the bowser with a length of wire. I kept the black rubber sheathing on, and it looks like a proper hose. Its a close enough match to the short length of moulded hose he is holding.
 

 

 
I still need to add a few final details, touch up some paint work, and add a little weathering to the vehicles and other objects. But things are slowly coming together.
 

 
Adding some "mud" to the back of the Tilly is going to be interesting.....
 

 
I will also have to figure something out so the bomb train sits down in the grass, rather than floats on top of it... 
 

 
Even the other vehicles will need to be settled down a bit. It will probably require a little bit of delicate grass removal from directly under the wheels, we shall see what I can come up with.
 
Andy
 

Thanks so much Pete, appreciate it. I'm glad she is as well; much easier to cope with our own tribulations than those of our children.
 
  Foremast today - pretty much the same process as the Mizzen of course, except the cheeks are a bit longer. Granted, the cheeks here are not quite as pronounced as they probably should be according to the TFFM, but I'm still ok with them.  I'll likely make them more pronounced for the main, while still trying to maintain some consistency.
 
   The only other thing worth nothing here is that with these bibs I've etched out and scored the pattern in which they would have been put together rather than one solid piece.  Once again the woolding loops are manila folder strips wrapped twice around the mast. I also didn't mention with the mizzen that I tacked in some nails to give it a nice authenticity detail. 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 

 
 

Thankyou Yves, the drawings in the AoTS Bellona provide a good guide, and the given anchor dimensions for a Seventy-four are taken from Steele.
If your anchors match the scale the arrangement looks ok to my eye, at least on paper.
 
'Indy' is more problematic, ideally the anchor arm should  fit between the first and second deadeyes, to bring it as close to the hull as possible, but there is no room. This accords with the Adm plan.
The aft bower is easier as it will fit as per the Bellona drawing.
 
Victory had a  different arrangement.

1834
Here, Billboards and linings are dispensed with and the anchor fluke sits  in a heavy shoe.
How they manipulated that 81cwt  lump of iron into position without marring that pristine paintwork I can only wonder at.🤔
These of course are replicas.
 
B.E.

Thank you Bug, glad to see work has restarted on your Pegasus.👍
 
Post One Hundred and Fifty- five
 
I continued to fit the Port side billboards and linings.

3939

3936

3937
I think I have made a better job of the Port side, so off came the starboard side for a re-fit.

3941
Starboard side re-done, happier now.

3942
I have also taken the opportunity to replace the bow port lid and add double lifting lanyards.

3852
Small sections of telephone wire sleeving are used to represent  the port lanyard tubes, but they did need drilling through to take the 0.30mm line which was stiffened with ca for the purpose.

3932
Another small job is to add the rudder chains. I used some Caldercraft Brass chain, 18 links /per inch.
I will get around to trimming them at some point.
 
B.E.
08/03/2024
 
 

Got to work on the MIzzen mast.  Although I know that the masts are all measured by the Main (and thanks again to BE and others for doing the math for the rest of us from Steel's work), I wanted to start with the Mizzen because it's a bit easier and I want to get my feet wet again.
 
    I started with the measurements and diagrams in the previous post and lathed out the mizzen then added the cheeks and the bibs. 
 
     
 
After adding the two 'filler' sides to the masthead above the bibs, I used sliced electricians tape to simulate the iron hoops that hold the masthead pieces together.  Then I added slim strips as the vertically placed battens.
 
  
 
Cross trees and trestle trees are added then I simulated the hoops for the wooldings by using a manilla folder cut into a strip then painted. 
 
  
 
   The woolding itself is my homemade rope using the famous Syren Rope Rocket. This particular rope is .045mm made from 4 doubled up strands of 120 mara thread.  Going to have to even out that tiny lump there that I didn't notice until the macro shot...   Also, they're difficult to see here, but the bolsters are added by rounding one edge of a small square strip and mounting them on each side where the shrouds will extend down to the deadeyes.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- four
This post follows on from Post 152 having a close relationship to anchors.
 
One of the reasons I made up the anchors is that I have also been thinking about anchor linings and billboards.
These do not feature with the kit and do not tend to appear on contemporary plans.

Many contemporary models show them, as on Amazon above. 
They were an important feature on ships of the period to protect the hull from the anchor flukes.

Chuck’s Winnie
My go to reference, here you can see the lining running over the wale.

7396
I added billboards to my Sphinx build as above.

3906
Having an anchor made up is useful in that the arc made by the anchor as it is swung horizontal from the cathead for securing, determines the position of the lining and billboards.
 
In considering Bolsters and Billboards for Indy I am hamstrung by the absence of specific sizes of timber to use. With Sphinx it was relatively easy having the TFFM book to refer to.
I know where these fittings were placed so it is basically down to what looks good to my eye.
 
I firstly made the Bolsters using some Boxwood square stock of 2.75mm. This was topped by some 3.5 x 0.7mm  boxwood strip.

3910
The length of the bolster worked out at 26mm. 
Notches were cut out of the back side to fit over the first two preventer plates of the Fore channels and a slight curve was induced to match the curve of the bow.
The bolster was fixed to the Black strake only with pins.
 

3913
With the bolsters  in place the Billboards can be made. For this I use some 1mm Boxwood scrap inscribed with 3mm wide boards which reflect the topsides planking.
 
The Linings

3914
These cover the main wale in the case of Indy and scribe an arc at the fore end that follows that of the anchor swing.
I settled on using some 0.6mm Pearwood scrap which suits my eye.
 

3917
3919

3929
In fixing the linings  I have used double sided tape. This gives me the option of easy removal if I decide I don’t like them, and the jury is still out on that.
 
Altho’ I’m not fitting the anchors I don’t think it will be an easy fit to get the bowers to look right.

3923

3924
If the bill is to rest on the Fore channel there is little room between the deadeyes.

3930
A possible fixing with the arm atop the fore end of the channel secured with shank painters around the timberheads.
 
I will be interested to see how others tackle the anchor rigging.🤔
 
 
B.E.
07/03/2024

Mast done then painted. Next job is finishing attaching the various blocks and racks.

Mast Shaping Completed
This morning I completed the shaping for the fore topsail and fore topgallant masts. These fore mast sections were then successfully test fitted on the Indy.

When looking at the next photo I do need make a minor adjustment to where the foretopgallant mast sits within the end cap as the hole for the FID is currently below the platform and cannot be fitted.

The next task will be to paint and add the blocks to all these mast sections (fore, main and mizzen). Once that is done the topsail masts will be added to the Indy so the shrouds and ratlines can be added.
 
Here are a few pictures of the Indy with all the masts in place, noting the topsail and topgallant masts are only dry fitted. The other models in the background are Speedy (incomplete), IJN Yamato, Alert and the Duchess of Kingston

Mizzen Topgallant Mast
I have continued making the various masts. The mizzen topgallant mast was a fairly straightforward mast to make and appears to be a good fit.

Main Topsail Mast
I then moved on to making the main topsail mast. This mast was made from a piece of 8mm dowel, which is cut longer than required, and will be trimmed to the right size once all the shaping is completed,  I applied a piece of tape to indicate the where the top square section will end.

Using a craft knife and needle file the top section of the dowel was squared off. The very top section was then rounded off and the topsail end cap fitting was checked.

The topsail platform was also test fitted. So far so good.

Next I applied the taper section to the middle section using my proxxon mini lathe. The conical section is still to be shaped.

Next using a craft knife and file the bottom section was shaped, starting with making a square section.

Next I created the octangle shaping to either side of the bottom square section, and then drilled the hole for the FID, which turned out to the hardest task. This is because I managed to snap the micro drill bit and the broken drill end was very difficult to remove. Thankfully the broken drill bit did eventually surrender so the FID could be test fitted.
 
The final task was to create the conical shaping, which I did using a craft knife and sand paper. The topsail mast was then tested fitted to the main mast and looked good.
 
 

Finished the hull today. Masts tomorrow.
 

Thanks, and I've just placed a pre-order for Sherbourne.

Chriss order ín for VM 15 and 16 plus the last two to complete a full set of all 16 of your wonderful kíts.
 
Hope the new ones fly off the shelves
 
Kind Regards
 
Guy

OK, Plans and manuals for both Adder and Sherbourne are now at the printers, and I have been told they will be delivered to me by the end of next week.
 
So now I can open for pre orders.
 
Adder:
HM Gun Brig Adder – 1797 – VANGUARD MODELS
 
Sherbourne:
HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne – 1763 – VANGUARD MODELS