Sven

Hi Bob, Nils and everyone for their likes and advice.   I'm still jury-rigging rigging all over the place in order to see what works and what doesn't look right.  Bob- I'm sorry, but at this small scale, I'm going to have go with a simplified rig, without the detail that you're able to achieve.  Sort of like sacrificing accuracy for what looks right.  
 
Here're the latest photos.
 
All the best!

Wonderful work!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 87 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking continued
 
In the first picture the last strake of inboard planking on the port side is being installed – leaving the air strake above it.
 

 
Treenailing has begun on both sides.  The next picture shows some nails installed and holes drilled for the next group.
 

 
The treenails measure 1½” (.021”) in diameter and are drawn from long strips of Castelo.  The next picture shows the completed forward area above the middle deck.
 

 
The next picture shows a treenail strip being inserted into one of the aft deck beams – about to be clipped off.
 

 
The aft part of the middle deck is the first to be finished off so the beams of the cabin deck can be installed next.  The cabin deck is just a few feet above the middle deck.
 
 In the next picture the middle deck work in this area below the cabin deck is being given a coat of wax – below the clamps.
 

 
In the next picture the wax has sunk in and dried.
 

 
The aftermost cabin deck beam has been glued in.  The next picture shows another view of this.
 

 
The next step will be to fit the deck beams and their knees for the cabin deck framing.  Treenailing along the rest of the deck continues.
 
Ed
 

...

Hi Nenad
I visited the Cutty sark this morning and took some photos of the coppering which has dulled down in the last couple of months
 

Great tutorial, Nenad.
 
I love that you are working with the metal clip from a file-folder !!
You should definitely post this idea to Kitbasher's !!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 81 –Aft Decks Framing
 
To break the monotony of making more knees, I deferred the work to finish the middle deck lodging knees and went on to some other things that will be coming up on the agenda shortly.  The first was cutting and finishing the view openings in the lower port side hull.  he first picture shows the three openings cut out.
 

 
The forward and center openings extend from the first futtock heads up the middle deck clamp – the aft opening only up from the lower deck.  After these were cleaned up by filing, sanding, etc. – and while the model was inverted on the bench – all of the remaining simulated bolts were installed up to the level of the middle deck.  The next picture shows hole locations being marked for the middle deck lodging knee bolts.
 

 
The blue masking tape, set at the top of the deck clamp, is used as a guide for the lodging knee bolts.  There is only space for three bolts through the frames for each knee bolt – one through the frames where there is a beam and two through each intermediate frame.  The resulting 4-2-4-2 pattern can be seen in the next picture.  The regular pattern is often disturbed by bolts for the iron strapping lattice.  There is nothing regular about these bolt patterns.
 

 
In this picture the next row of bolts – the middle deck waterway bolts – have been installed just above the lodging knee bolts described above.  The remains of the CA glue on that upper row is being filed off in the picture.  This picture also shows the vertical rows of hanging knee bolts through the even numbered frame pairs.  All this work was done on both sides, but on the starboard side up to the waterline only.  The starboard topsides will be planked so there is no need for simulated bolts.
 
Work also started on the framing of the after decks.  The main or upper deck extends only back to frame 36.  From there aft it was a few steps down to a cabin deck located as a sort of mezzanine between the middle and main decks.  At this point also, there were a few steps up to the poop deck.  A template cut to the shape of the poop deck inside the frames is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This template is for final checks on frame alignment.  Also in this picture the toptimbers of the odd numbered frames have been removed in this area.  These were helpful in aligning the frames but only extended to full height on the even numbered frames.  The others will be cut down later.
 
The template was also used to shape a curved deck transom for the poop deck as shown in the next picture.
 
 
 

 
To avoid grain weakness issues, this was made in two pieces joined by a hook scarph.  It is being glued together in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the poop deck clamps have been installed and the transom is being fitted at the stern.
 

 
The top of the poop decking will be flush with the tops of the frames.  The frames will then be capped with the “fancy rail.”  This rail runs in a line from stem to stern.  In the next picture the tops of the stern timbers and frames have been precisely trimmed to their correct height and a gauge strip is being used to set the height of the transom from the tops of these timbers.   
 

 
There is some tolerance for error on the heights of the lower decks, but there is none here.  Any variation will disturb the line of the upper rail and will be very apparent.  The deck clamps also need to be precisely set.  The one in this picture had to be shimmed up about 1” so the deck planks will be flush with the tops of the frames.
 
My adventures with these very visible final alignments will continue in the next part.
 
 Ed

Hi everyone!  Hope you're all well.  
 
What a difference the addition of the drop keel and rudder has made to Ingomar's hull.  I was actually dreading adding the drop keel, because I thought it would spoil her underbody shape, but, to my surprise, I reckon it's added a huge point of interest to the hull.  To my mind, Ingomar looks like she's really coming along nicely.  The rudder, also, has made a big difference and in many ways, sort of 'completes' the hull nicely.
 
Another addition that's just been added is the final strip of jarrah to finish off the deck's edge and the top of the transom.  I reckon it contrasts nicely against the lightly coloured deck planks.  Still needs further sanding and varnishing though.
 
Lastly, I've temporarily added a piece of wood to simulate the long bowsprit.  It looks really, really, really long to me, but I've triple checked the measurement and it's correct.  It just gives you an idea of the huge amount of sail that these mega yachts carried in the early 1900's.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
All the best, everyone!
 
 

Michael: all my ships are made from card  Here they are 
 
Jan

Hello dear friends,
I feel so honored and pleased reading your posts. Thank you very much for you kind words and support, that is a great motivation for me and also a commitment to continue with my work as best as I can.
 
 Well, for me it is easier to make pins from two parts, cause I have no lathe or other suitable tools , that can facilitate the work. First I was a bit afraid of their strength, but it is O.K. After gluing into the plank the pins are very strong.
 
 
I am glad, you like it. In future I am going to make other videos "how to do" . I believe, this is a better than description using words.
 
 
 
Well dear friends, during this weekend I have decided to remake a grating on the bow, cause the first version did not match reality at all. I found a lot of perfect inspiration here at MSW, so I try to improved my model. Here are the pics from process:
 
This is a previous version (I have to say that I did not like it)...

 
And this is a sketch of how I wanted to do:

 
So I have started with disassembling, I use debonder and must be very careful and patient....




 
And here you can see left side almost finished:


 
Done:

Well, this was already described at this thread, just have a look:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?p=162240
 
 
And what´s new on the model.....
I have just started with masts and rigging, I try to make all these things according to plans from Anatomy of RC and also follow books and other credible information to achieve more realistic result.
 
The bowsprit:
 




 
The ropes are handmade using the ropewalk. I use ropes by Corel or Amati...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 77 –Middle Deck Framing continued
 
It has been almost two weeks since the last post due mainly to the similarity of the lower and middle decks – not a lot of new stuff.  However, the middle deck framing is proceeding quickly – perhaps it’s the learning curve.  The first picture shows beam installation progressing from the bow aft.
 

 
The beams, hanging knees, pillars and carlings are all being installed progressively – leaving the lodging knees and ledges until later.  This has helped with the pace.  The next picture shows a carling being fitted.
 

 
The carling seats were cut out at the bench based on marks made on the model with the beams pinned – so the carling fitting goes very fast.  The next picture is a close up of the carlings for the above beam.
 

 
The wet spots are from washing off excess glue.  The pillars are set at the bottom on a piece of wire fit into a drilled hole – after adjusting the length to fit.  They are then glued top and bottom.  Wire “bolts” into the top will be added later.  The pillars were offset to permit long through bolts that were used to hold the beams tightly when side hull stresses would tend to separate them.  In the next picture wire “bolts” have been epoxied through the beams at the ends and into each pillar.
 

 
The bolts at the very end pin the beams in place.  The bolts just inside of those are inserted at an angle, down into the hanging knees to give their connection additional reinforcement.  
 
The last two pictures show the current status of the work on the middle deck.
 

 

 
The work will now continue from the stern forward.  It is easier to do the small end beams starting from the stern deck hook.
 
 
 Ed

Thanks for all the likes.
I stopped by the tire store and showed the owner the pictures of the boat in the water and told him that I needed some more weight and could he sell me some more.
 
We went out to the balancing machine and he asked the chap if they had any used weights, yes they had a bucket. I backed up the van and the young lad put it into the van. I asked the owner how much did I owe him $30 dollars he said. When I got home I went to lift it out and was stopped dead in my tracks...the bucket weighs in at 90 plus pounds.
 

 
first thing was to rig up a mould.
 

 
after a quick sweep under the wire wheel the ingot cleans up nicely this one is 2 lbs
 

 
This will be a lot easier to place in the hull.
 
Michael
 
 

John, Druxey, Lextin, Grant, Omega, Mark, Sherry. Thank you all for your encouragement with all you positive comments. thanks to all those who added likes.
 
Well I needed to get this next part out of my system, so Jude and I went down to the lake with a bucket of used wheel balance weights and the cutter. to get an idea of what I am dealing with, so this was a test not an official launch.
 

 
it took a while to add them all 60lbs a few at a time, the folk on the beach must have thought we were nuts.
 

 
We ran out of weights so I will need to get another bucket or two.
 
Took a few pics of it floating.
 

 

 
and this is my favorite shot of the day.
 

 
A number of lessons learned
 
1. It will be very heavy because I need a lot more weight to get it another 2 1/2 inches lower in the water
2. the weights will need to be set up so that they can be easily added and removed.
3. I will need a launching vehicle with small bicycle wheels to launch after the weights are added.
4 it was not pleasant lifting the boat out of the water with all the weight in it.
5. the weight was more forward than I expected it to be.
6. total weight was 66lbs with the stand
Tomorrow I will empty the weights out of the hold.
 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 75 – Lower Deck Finishing/ Middle Deck Beams
 
The finishing touches on the lower deck are finally complete.  The first four pictures show the last stages of the work.  The first picture shows the last section of binding strake being installed.
 

 
As usual the dark area are wet  from washing off excess glue.  The two central planks aft of the after hatch are also being glued.  The opening for the mizzenmast will be cut later.  The next picture shows final planking around the main masts. 
 

 
The planks astride the openings are need for the pillars.  There is not much planking on this deck – to maximize visibility of the hold.  After this final planking, all of the remaining treenails were installed and all of the copper bolts blackened in preparation for finish.
 
In the next picture the starboard side framing has received the first application of wax solution.  The side planking is left unfinished so the hanging knees can be glued.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view above the forward hatch after the first coat of finish was applied.
 

 
The planks have been cut for the fore mast opening and left unfinished for later gluing of the pillars.
 
The next picture shows fitting of the middle deck beams in progress.
 

 
These have been cut to size, shaped at the ends to match the frames and pinned in place temporarily.  In the next picture all of the full width beams have been pinned in place.
 

 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 74 – Middle Deck Parts
 
Posts to the log have not been as frequent because much of the work has been repetitive.  In the next phase – the middle deck – the work will be a virtual carbon copy of the lower deck.
 
Very little work remains to finish the lower deck – mainly treenailing and some deck planking.  While that is being completed, parts for the middle deck are being made.  In the first picture some sample turned pillars have been made to help me decide on the choice of woods for these.  Six dozen are required for the next two decks.
 

 
Turned pillars above the lower and middle decks were probably black locust – a favorite wood for that application – and for treenails.  The four options pictured are, left to right, Castelo, Cherry, Mahogany and Black Walnut.  I loved the color of the Honduras Mahogany but the pores are a bit distracting –same with the Walnut.  They could be filled but not on these small pieces – maybe for the upper deck rails.  So I decided on the cherry.  It is slightly darker than the pear I am using for oak members.
 
For the final versions of these a new lathe bit for the beads was required.  After quite a lot of fiddling with the shape and the depth of the cut the tool in the following picture was used.
 

 
The next picture shows the beads on a pillar being turned.
 

 
The piece is held in a self-centering four jaw Sherline chuck, running on my ancient Unimat SL.  The homemade brass adapter for the chuck can be seen in the lower left corner.  The cherry square is kept on center inside a close fitting brass sleeve in the tailstock chuck.  Cutting depth is set by the brass half sleeve stop slipped over the cross-feed rods – visible just below the cutting tool.   The beads are cut first and the piece removed so others can use the same setup.  That set up is then changed and the area between the beads turned in about the same way.
 
The next picture shows the first two dozen pillars in progress.
 

 
Deck beams were also made.  The picture below shows the middle deck set before cutting to length.
 

 
 The clamp template in the picture is used on a router table to impart the top of the beam curve – a recycled tool from Naiad – but with a different round up.  Once the curve is put on the top of a blank, the beam is parted off and run upside down through the thickness sander.  I have described this process on a few earlier posts and it is described in detail in Naiad Vol II.
 
Knees, knees, knees – about ten dozen are needed for the middle deck.  Below the pattern sheet for the starter set of hanging knees has been pasted to a pear blank about an inch thick.
 

 
After cutting out on the scroll saw the 12” thick knees will be sliced off.  The next picture shows the pieces after cutting to shape with some ripped to size.
 

 
 
The shape of these knees will need to be refined to fit each location – from about eight basic shapes. 
 
Finally, the out-of-date drawing on the shipway board was replaced with a new one with latest revisions - and is it clean!.  The picture below was taken before setting up the end supports – to give a good view of the stern hull lines.
 

 
 Ed

That's brilliant Michael. To see her on the shore looks so authentic. The primer and paint patches only adds to that! Almost a shame to paint her!

That's brilliant Michael. To see her on the shore looks so authentic. The primer and paint patches only adds to that! Almost a shame to paint her!

...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 71 – Lower Deck Standing/Ceiling Strakes
 
Work continued on the remaining lower deck waterways and standing strakes.  Filling planking was also begun at the bow.  The first picture shows planking being glued on both sides – with the aid of clamps and wedges.
 

 
The second picture shows the horizontal bolts – two per frame – through the standing strake and the frames.  The standing strake is the thick member atop the waterway.
 

 
These are monofilament.  Through holes were drilled from the inside with a right angle drill.  Those through the waterway below are functional copper wire bolts with epoxy as discussed earlier.  They have not yeyt been blackened. 
 
The next picture shows further progress with the forward planking.
 
 

 
All the filling planks on this deck are  6” thick. The picture also shows planking on the port side in progress.  The glued plank is held by wedges in this case.  The next picture taken at the same time shows the space left open for the view port.
 

 
The X-marked frames will be cut out later.  Small pieces of waterway have been installed on the frames that will be left.  these will be planked up so that hanging knees can be installed on the beams at these locations,   All the small pieces will be trimmed back to the frame faces as shown at the forward end of the opening.
 
The next picture shows all the planks installed on the forward port side.
 

 
Fastenings need to be installed on all this planking – bolts for the heavy structural members and treenails for the ordinary ceiling planks. 
 
In the next picture the middle deck clamps near the stem have been dubbed off and are being checked with the ruler.
 

 
This will allow the middle deck hook to be fitted.  The will also be a breast hook between the two decks.
 
 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 68 – Lower deck framing continued
 
In the first picture the beams around the opening for the main mast have been installed.
 

 
The forward beams and half-beams around this opening have double pillars – one on each side - set on the base timbers on the hold planking.
 
Making and setting these pillars, with their four knees each, is a large portion of the work involved with these beams.  The next picture shows a monofilament bolt being installed in an upper knee that has already been glued into an assembly.
 

 
The next picture shows the three parts of a pillar assembly ready for installation.
 

 
The lower knees will be installed after the top assembly is set in place and glued.  In the next picture the final beam – a half beam – is ready to be installed.
 

Unlike the other pillars, this one has been pre-installed since there will be insufficient space to do it later.  The hanging knee has also been pre-attached to the half beam for this reason.  The pillar is pinned to the base with a piece of wire.
 
The next picture shows the final beams installed.
 

 
Copper wire bolts have been installed through the tops of the beams to help secure the them, their hanging knees and each of the pillars   these are glued with epoxy that has not yet been sanded off the tops of the beams.
 
The next picture is another view of this area.
 

 
All of the work below the beams has been finished with beeswax solution before installing the ledges.  Missing lodging knees, carlings, ledges and a lot of monofilament bolts still need to be installed to complete the lower deck framing. 
 
The last picture shows most of the lower deck at this stage.
 

 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 66 – Lower deck framing continued
 
For those not yet exhausted by pictures of the inching along of the lower deck framing, here are some photos showing the latest progress.  In the first picture bolts have been installed in the tops of most of the forward beams.
 

 
The bolts represent fastenings for the hanging knees and the knees at the tops of the pillars.  There is also a bolt down through the beam into each pillar itself.  The next picture is a closer view of the bolts.
 

 
The glue – epoxy or CA – has not yet been sanded off in this picture.  The next picture shows bolting on the beams just ahead of the mizzenmast.  In this picture most of the glue has been sanded off.
 

 
The black bolts are dummies of black monofilament glued in with CA.  The shiny copper wire bolts are functional.  That is, they are epoxied through the beam into the members below and are lending strength to the glue joints of the hanging knees, the pillars and the beams themselves to the clamps.  The top of the framing will get a final leveling and final sanding after the ledges are installed.
 
The next picture is another view of this area.
 

 
The next picture shows the framing forward of the mainmast. 
 

 
Carlings have been installed back to the last beam with a pillar installed.  All of the lodging knees have been installed.  Hanging knees have been fitted to the two beams lying on the deck.  They will be the last to be installed.  At that point there will be no room for fitting the knees under the installed beams.  In the next picture almost all of the ledges have been installed in the aft section.
 

 
Note the irregular pattern of central ledges over the mizzenmast step.  Apparently these ships had supporting partners only at the main deck, so the mast opening is just framed on this deck.
 
The last picture shows another view of the forward framing.
 

 
The remaining framework gets more interesting.  There are a lot of half-beams and double pillars astride the main mast, main hatch and the water tanks.
 
 Ed

I was looking through news articles........this I found to be very sad.    I hope you are well Nenad  
 
 
http://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/balkan-flood-victims-face-threat-thousands-drowned-animals-n109951

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 57 – Lower deck hooks, outer hull work
 
 
Its been awhile since the last post.  Other demands have been interrupting the work.  But some of the recent work – like drafting – is not something I usually report on.  There is still quite a lot of that to do to keep ahead of construction.
 
After dubbing off the lower deck clamps, all is ready for beam installation.  I will report on beam fabrication later, but before beam setting could commence I wanted to get the fore and aft deck hooks installed.  The first picture – taken at the bow - shows the hook below the lower deck hook installed and the lower deck hook itself being fitted. 
 

 
I lofted patterns for the deck hooks but the lower hook was hand fitted to the lowest strake of bilge ceiling.  In the next picture the first two beams have been fit and pinned into place.
 
 

 
The hooks were probably live oak and so are being modeled in pear.  The deck beams were hard pine and are being made of Castelo – like the clamps and inboard planking.
 
The next picture shows the aft lower deck hook in place and a few beams being fit.
 

 
The blue tape in this picture is trying to protect the fragile ironwork lattice at the top where no deck clamps have been installed yet.  The strapping at the bow is safely tucked under the main deck clamps.
 
The outside of the lower hull was demanding attention, as can be seen in the next picture.
 

 
The forest of protruding copper wire ends are the iron bolts securing the 8” x 8” bilge strakes on the inside.  Each bolt is also accompanied by a drop of hardened epoxy.  The first step in dealing with this is to cut off the ends as shown below.
 

 
It is dificult to clip these off flush, but making them short helps in the next step – shown below.
 

 
The wire stubs and hard epoxy are easily removed with a file, or in some areas with sandpaper.  The file works best – i.e. fastest.  When followed by sanding, virtually all traces of the epoxy are gone.   Somewhere in this process all of the missing bolts had to be installed.  Wherever these could not be drilled through from the inside, dummy bolts were installed from both sides.  These were required near the ends where drilling holes square to the frames was not possible.
 
When all of those bolts were added and cleaned up, dummy bolts for the iron lattice were installed on the outside.  Monofilament was used for these.  In the next picture one of these is being cut off flush.
 

 
These were CA glued.  They were placed along the lines of the strapping.  There are, of course, quite a few of these bolts and the work is taking some time. 
 
The current plan is to get the hull finished and waxed below the lower futtock heads before returning to the work inside.  After final sanding and just before applying wax finish to the hull frames, all of the copper bolts will be blackened.  There is still some work to do before that.
 
Ed

work with the hull completely finished