Pete Jaquith

After graduating from Webb Institute of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, I joined Bath Iron Works in Bath, ME.  My 1st year included an apprenticeship in the "full scale" and "1/10th scale" mold lofts.  Very enjoyable time and I learned a lot re structural design, material routing, and design for production.  Later in my career, I ran the mold loft at BIW and oversaw the transition to 3D CAD.  Today, most of the traditional loft functions are preformed near automatically using artificial intelligence (AI) and the 3D CAD design product model.  Recently I have assisted the US Navy and warship builders with recommendations re modern 3D CAD Product Model design systems.
 
For model building, I prefer to draw my own lines using ship's curves, a tapered pine batten, and lead batten weights from my four years at Webb.
 
 

As shown in the 1st picture they are great weights for ship modeling.  I cast mine at Webb Institute in 1961.
 
Shipbuilder,
Pete

As shown in the 1st picture they are great weights for ship modeling.  I cast mine at Webb Institute in 1961.
 
Shipbuilder,
Pete

As shown in the 1st picture they are great weights for ship modeling.  I cast mine at Webb Institute in 1961.
 
Shipbuilder,
Pete

Hi Bruce,
 
I used fillers on my 14 Gun Brig Fair American build.  The fillers were bass wood, and they were a great help in fairing the hull.  The model was single planked with 1/16" bass wood planking.
 
Regards, Pete

Hi Bruce,
 
I used fillers on my 14 Gun Brig Fair American build.  The fillers were bass wood, and they were a great help in fairing the hull.  The model was single planked with 1/16" bass wood planking.
 
Regards, Pete

Greg,
 
The following pictures from my Newsboy build may be of assistance. As illustrated, the bulkwalk planks were heavly curved.
 
Regards,
Pete

Hi Bruce,
 
I used fillers on my 14 Gun Brig Fair American build.  The fillers were bass wood, and they were a great help in fairing the hull.  The model was single planked with 1/16" bass wood planking.
 
Regards, Pete

Hi Bruce,
 
I used fillers on my 14 Gun Brig Fair American build.  The fillers were bass wood, and they were a great help in fairing the hull.  The model was single planked with 1/16" bass wood planking.
 
Regards, Pete

Painted today HMCS Blairmore J314  awaits as her charges leave St Johns at the start of their Atlantic crossing w/c 16" X11"  

Coppering is now completed and I've mounted the ship on a scrap piece of wood.   I'll replace this with something nice before I get into masts etc. that will make it difficult to turn up side down later on.    I haven't decided if I'm going to make some nice wood mounting board or just buy one.   On to the next level of stanchions and planking.

Over the past couple of days I've cut enough strips and applied them to cover the first belt between the keel and the goring line.  As with the practice strips, any movement of the tape while working with it shows up on the final product.   Peeling the backing off, if you don't keep the foil side straight, makes little marks across the foil.   While I've become better and limiting this, some is inevitable and I've simply accepted that.   The markings from the Pizza cutter look good, better in some places than others but so far I'm happy with the outcome.   Most of these strips will be under the boat and not seen often so hopefully I will continue to get better at this.

Shipbuilders,
My ship modeling has been limited in recent months due to:
Preparation of a major Technical Paper on "Warship Design and Acquisition" to be published in the Naval Engineers Journal Sept. `21 issue, an American Society of Naval Engineers (ASNE) publication. Incredibly hot weather which prevents work in my garage shop. With the paper complete and weather improving, I look forward to getting back to the shop.
 
Regards, Pete 

Various techniques including copper paint, individual copper plates, photo etched plates, and self adhesive copper tape have been used by ship modelers to simulate the copper sheathing used for under water hull protection on both naval and merchant ships from the late 1700’s thru the late 1800’s. The following notes describe the technique selected for my Topsail Schooner "Eagle" of 1847 build.
 
Test Pieces – Test pieces were prepared to evaluate the installation process and appearance of various methods including individual plates, individual plates cut from self adhesive tape, strips of copper tape, and both plain and embossed plates. The selected approach was individual plates cut from self adhesive copper tape with embossed nail heads on the exposed plate edges only.
 
Copper Material – The material used for copper sheathing was .0015” x ¼” wide self adhesive copper tape purchased from Blue Jacket Ship Crafters.
Plate Fabrication – The individual copper plates were cut from self adhesive copper tape using a Carl Rotary Trimmer from Staples Office Supply. The plates were ¼” x ¾” (16” x 48” full size at 1:64 scale). The individual plates were then embossed from the back side using a fine pounce wheel.
 
Hull Preparation – After filling and sanding any minor dings, holes, etc. on the lower hull and completion of topside painting (acrylic paints); the topside and bare lower hull were sealed with three coats of Minwax Wipe-On-Poly (oil based wiping varnish). A hard smooth surface is necessary for tape adhesion, and a smooth surface is important as any defects will show through the thin copper foil.
 
Hull Layout – With the model resting in its building cradle, the waterline was laid out using a surface gauge. The gore line was then located using the copper sheathing layout taken from a similar size merchant hull plans (whaler "Kate Cory"). The plate layout consists of upper and lower gore strakes with no dressing belt. The individual copper plate strakes were laid out using a tick strip working up from the keel. The water line, gore line, and individual plate strakes were then marked on the model hull using narrow strips of blue masking tape. Note that properly locating the waterline and gore line are critical as I have seen models where they dip down badly in the stern area.
 
Plate Installation – Individual copper plates were applied using the masking tape strips as a guide and working from the keel up and the stern post forward. The plates were overlapped approximately 1/32” and butts were staggered like brick work. A fair amount of fitting was required in the upper stern area due to the hull shape, and the upper corners of the plates were cut off for those plates that crossed the gore line and waterline. After installation, all copper foil plates were rubbed down with a soft rag.
 
Protective Finish – After installation, I cleaned the copper plates with denatured alcohol and applied three coats of Minwax Wipe-On-Poly to seal and protect the copper surface. After approximately 10 months, the copper sheathing is beginning to show some tarnish under the varnish finish. On future builds, I may just choose to clean the copper plates and let them tarnish naturally.
 
While the above technique is only an approximation of full size practice as the nail pattern would have covered the complete plate and would hardly be visible at this scale, I was pleased with the overall effect. As noted; critical items in the application include having a smooth hard surface, layout of the waterline/gore line, and holding the plate strakes straight.
 
Brigantine "Newsboy" 1854 Installation – Following completion of the Topsail Schooner "Eagle", my next ship model was the Brigantine "Newsboy" of 1854 (also in 1:64 scale). The copper sheathing installation on "Newsboy" was similar to "Eagle" with the following exceptions:
1. Due to her finer hull lines, I chose to model the copper sheathing layout after the clipper ship "Flying Fish" of 1851. The copper sheathing layout consisted of an upper and lower gore with a single dressing strake at the water line.
2. The copper plate fabrication and installation was similar to "Eagle". Based on the recommendation of friends at the USS Constitution Model Shipwrights Guild, I elected not to emboss the copper plates with simulated nails. I was pleased with the result, and plan to follow this practice on future models of American Merchant Sail from the mid 1800’s.
 
The following pictures illustrate copper sheathing installation on the Maine Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 and Brigantine "Newsboy" of 1854.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Ok, work on Smuggler is resumed now. I have started to build the fwd. companionway:

 
Still little bit rough, but getting some shapes. I decided to replace cast grating from the kit with the wooden one. I also realized, that many commercially available gratings kits look like taken from the prison cell window, once assembled. Eventually found one, that I like much more than the metal piece. Will see, how it looks at the end.

I'm finally done with coppering the hull, this was as tedious as setting the rigging.



I don't like how the bow stem turned out, it's not very smooth and somewhat misaligned.  I haven't decided if I will redo it or not, but I need to move on and work on something else for awhile.

Shipbuilders,
My ship modeling has been limited in recent months due to:
Preparation of a major Technical Paper on "Warship Design and Acquisition" to be published in the Naval Engineers Journal Sept. `21 issue, an American Society of Naval Engineers (ASNE) publication. Incredibly hot weather which prevents work in my garage shop. With the paper complete and weather improving, I look forward to getting back to the shop.
 
Regards, Pete 

Tim, the paint colors are period marine acrylics by Model shipways (Model Expo).  Not perfect but I like the color selection.
 
Good to hear from you.
Regards,
Pete

Shipbuilders,
My ship modeling has been limited in recent months due to:
Preparation of a major Technical Paper on "Warship Design and Acquisition" to be published in the Naval Engineers Journal Sept. `21 issue, an American Society of Naval Engineers (ASNE) publication. Incredibly hot weather which prevents work in my garage shop. With the paper complete and weather improving, I look forward to getting back to the shop.
 
Regards, Pete 

With the Brig Fair American hull painting complete, construction continued with installation of hull outfit:
Transom trim and carvings were highlighted/painted with Deco Color Prime-Premio gold metallic paint pens Transom windows were previously formed to follow the curve of the transom trim and planking Transom windows were painted, glazed, and installed (Micro Kristal Klear was used for window glazing) Ship’s name was installed (prepared and printed with MS Word) Rudder chains were blackened and installed  Next steps will continue with installation of the quarter deck rails.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

With the Brig Fair American hull painting complete, construction continued with installation of exterior hull outfit:
Gangway steps were painted/installed Gun port hinges were fabricated, painted, and installed based on a mini-kit from Syren Ship Models Quarter badges were painted, glazed, and installed (Micro Kristal Klear was used for window glazing)  Next steps will continue with installation of chain plates, lower deadeyes, and channel caps and then it’s on to complete the transom outfit.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

Etubino,
 
Building up the Brig "Fair American" stern structure was an interesting challenge. Once complete with windows, ship's name, and quarter badges it should be impressive and representative of these beautiful ships from the past.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete

With the Brig Fair American hull painting complete, construction continued with installation of the head rails and bow fittings:
Head rails were previously fabricated/dry fitted from 3/32” laminated stock (3 layers of 1/32” sheet stock with opposing grain) Middle rails were previously fabricated/dry fitted from 1/16” sheet stock Cheek knees were previously fabricated/installed from 1/16” sheet stock Boomkins were previously fabricated/dry fitted from 1/8” sheet stock Catheads were previously fabricated/dry fitted from 3/16” sheet stock Head and middle rails were pre-painted and installed After checking the head rails from all angles; they were primed and finished painted.  Gold trim was applied with Deco Color Prime-Premio gold metallic paint pens After completion of the head rails, catheads were painted/installed Figurehead was painted/installed Boomkins were painted/dry fitted  To avoid potential damage, the boomkins will be left loose for later installation during the rigging phase.  To allow construction access, the bowsprit, bowsprit bitts, and fore bitts will be left loose until completion of bulwark interior fittings and cannon installation.
 
With completion of the head structure and gold trim she is starting to look like a fine little armed brig from the 1780’s.  Next steps will continue with installation of exterior hull outfit.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

Progress continues on the head structure.  More pictures to follow when this work area is completed.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete

With the Brig Fair American hull painting complete, construction continued with installation of lower hull outfit:
Rudder was painted and installed Rudder gudgeons were fabricated and installed (strips of painted Bristol board) Keel and horseshoe plates were installed (from Syren Ship Model Company)  Next steps will continue installation of exterior hull outfit with completion of the head structure.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith