egkb

Have to agree with the others Kevin,
 
I think you are being overly harsh on yourself. The work you have done on your Victory to date has been top notch, and when you have done a "re-do", the results have been well worthwhile. And we all have re-dos!!! Similarly, your work so far on Bismarck has been very good. Striving for perfection is one thing, but don't let aspirations for perfection get in the way of enjoyment and satisfaction from things that maybe just short of perfection - that way lies disappointment and frustration. You are a very capable modeller who turns out very good work and who is learning and improving all the time. Just like the rest of us. That's why we are here on this forum - to learn, grow and develop our skills.........and to support each other through the tough times.
 
Now, get back to work!!!

Small progress update Arethusa. I've been working more of the fiddly bits of ironwork for the deck. Following are chainplate assemblies.

I mentioned previously that I was 'stuck' on making the double stropped lower deadeyes. I had fashioned the strops from 0.015" diameter brass wire, looping it around two pins a given distance apart on a wood board. I pinched the wire adjacent to each pin, and soldered the overlap of the two free ends with Stay Brite solder. After trimming the excess, and sanding the soldered end into somewhat reasonable shape I used a drill bit which as about the same diameter as the deadeyes to create the strop shape. Pliers were used to straighten the 'lug' ends of the strop. Once those were all formed I painted the entire strop dull silver except for the non-soldered lug end.

Here is a photo of the some of the parts in manufacturing sequence. On the left is a straight strop after the one end was soldered and sanding/filed. Next to it is a formed hoop strop, the deadeye, the brass rivet, and the chainplate. Next is the soldered assembly. And last is the assembly with the rivet stem trimmed off.



Here is a photo of all of the parts prior to mass soldering production:


Here is a photo of my soldering pad and the assembly secured with wire and a pin:

I placed the manufactured 0.8mm head diameter rivet head at the end of the strop which had been soldered so that the other end, which would be soldered to the unpainted strop was as far away from the strop soldered joint as possible - to mitigate as much as possible the heat from the full assembly soldering from damaging the first soldered joint. This may have been overkill, as the second soldered joint was made using TIX, which has a melt temp of 270F, whereas Stay Brite has a melt temp of 450F or so. In any case the plan worked acceptably. There were variations in forming of the strop loops, and the soldered joints, resulting in more than I want, but all in all acceptable to proceed with.

The final parts assembled, trimmed, and touch up silver paint applied.


Soon I'll install them on the ship.

Cheers,

Elia

yea.......you can't feel that way Kevin,  we are all modelers of particular style and taste.   I think your doing a great job......no matter where you began on the build.   the kit is huge........it looks as  daunting,  as all hell........    but you know that as soon as you got into it,  and began putting 'er together,  with everything you've done.........you've felt a sense of accomplishment.   that my friend,  is what you were looking for.........from the size of that kit.....you got it in spades!!!   I'd love to get a kit like that,  but the admiral won't let me play with plastic anymore.  I still have a couple in the closet....she forgets Hee.....Hee!
 
we have you now.............you will never be free.........bwaaaaaaa.......ha..ha..ha!

Hi all,
Happy holidays and a wishing you all a great new year.
 
Time for my next update. I have completed the inner planking. I decided to try this a little differently after my frustrating experience trying to keep the ports squared on the outer planking. I thought I would try to pre-fabricate the planking sections and see if that went any better... it did.
 
I first installed the 3/16" bulwark plank along the bottom. I now realize the importance of the first planking on the outer side and the level of the sills. I must have had it a little off because I did have to cut the bulwark a little to leave the proper space between that first inner plank and the gun port. I am not yet sure how that will impact the decking... but I guess I will find out pretty soon. It was only a little off so hopefully the camber will be ok without too much fiddling.
 

 
Then I cut planks to fit between the portholes and held together with tape. you can see that the edges are still uneven at this point.

 
I used my bench disk sander to reduce the edges to the proper fit. Doing the fitting this way allowed me to easily keep all the edges of all planks in the section even to fit squarely to the ports.
 


 
The result was fairly even planking on the inward side of the bulkwarks.
 

 

Finally I added the topmost plank to complete the inward planking.
 
At his point I forgot to take pictures, so I am adding a picture of the work after it was painted and with the cap rail installed.
 

 
I am now finishing working on the cap rail. I read Chuck's note about advanced modelers trying to create the beading on the 1/16" stip. I warn you all now that his adding that was a heinous act of sadism.
I asked my wife to go through the practicum and blank out all paragraphs that began with "... advanced modelers might want to..."
Don't tell Chuck, but I ordered two dozen pizzas and gave them his address for delivery. Hah!!
 
Seriously, I will show how I finally worked it out in my next post. It wasn't really all that difficult and did not require any special jigs. It just required a very.. very soft touch. I don't think you can even see the beading in the photos I will post, but you can see it in the model itself... and its kinda nice.
 
Richard

Hello, I have finished assembling of cant frames.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Kevin,
 
I am pretty sure most of us have felt this way at some time or another, I know I have.  There is aspects of my build that I am never happy with and know that its unlikely to be better but then there is other parts I know I can do better next time and the time after that.
 
But if we give up then the practice will never be there to improve.
 
For what its worth I am enjoying your build and see nothing but good work.
 
Keep it up mate.
 
Cheers
Slog

Hello everyone, hope you all had a good holiday
 
Before i go much further, i have a little confession, i had very recently seriously considered giving up modelling, for good - i am always looking to be better than i am, and the worse i seam to get, - i keep starting new projects and using it as a excuse to try something else, or i need to do this as practise to proceed with other jobs, i don't know who i am trying to fool
 
But common sense prevails i enjoy the hobby immensely - just crap at it -  i feel showing my work would make me better - i dont see any results, but will continue to do so
 
so as part of my soul searching - i am going to attack the Bismarck, another way - (excuse the pun) and approach it different and see how it goes, 
it was a bad idea for me to start on the superstructure, the hull needs to be done first - and build up , so everything else has been put safe to one side
 
all the portholes have been drill approx 100 of them using 1.5mm drill - all the sea water inlets and outlets have been opened up - the Atlantic bow is now in place as are the prop shafts
 
 

I hope everyone had a great Christmas day   
I did an hours very rough painting to the deck today to see if I had the idea right after seeing a photo of a real deck
 

 
So what do you think ??
As I say it is very rough and is just to get a coat on ready for some accurate painting
Not much of the actual deck will in fact be visible   

Personally, I blame the salami sandwich!!! Great that you caught the error in time though Augie - much easier to do the re-do BEFORE it is attached to the ship

Thanks Harley.  No, my fault entirely.  The upper hull is first planked with 1/8x1/16 planks except for the main and channel wales which are 5/32x1/16.  Then the wales are planked over.  The uppers go with 5/32 X 1/32.  But the mains are a combo of 5/32x1/32 and 5/32x1/16.  The plans are clear enough.  But somewhere between pre-bending, beveling, pre-painting, coffee and a salami sandwich I screwed it up.  Saw it when I got ready for the ceremonial actual laying of the first plank (thank Heavens)!
 
The bright side is that 'do-overs' give you a chance to improve your technique!

Just to let everyone know, power was restored sometime after 9pm Christmas Day. The house is slowly warming back up. Everyone is safe, and this will have been a Christmas to remember. The shipyard will be reopening soon. Thank you all for your concerns, and well wishes. And the turkey was delicious too
 
Andy

Chrimbo present from partner - 'HMS Victory - Building, restoration and repair' by A R Bugler. Looks really helpful for my eventual attempt at Caldercrafts Victory....!
 
Hope you're all having a good one!

Thank you Eamonn and happy holidays to you too

Take Care Shawn and have a great Holidays, see you in the New Year.
 
Eamonn

good evening all,
 
just a small note to wish you all fine friends a happy Christmas and a prosperous new year, with loads of modeling fun.
 
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

1777 - Kiritimati, also called Christmas Island, is discovered by James Cook.
1832 - HMS Beagle anchors in Wigwam Bay at Cape Receiver.
1941 - 1st ships of admiral Nagumo's Pearl Harbor fleet return to Japan.

Treaty of GhentFor anyone that reads my daily log - the last entry was 
 
1814 Treaty of Ghent ends the War of 1812.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Ghent

24 DECEMBER
 
 
1744
HMS Swallow sloop, Cptn. Andrew Jelfe, wrecked in the West Indies
1789
HMS Guardian (en flute), Lt. Edward Riou, whilst laden with stores for the new settlement at Port Jackson struck an invisible, underwater part of an iceberg and her stern swung round, knocking off the rudder and badly damaging the stern frame. Water-logged and supported by casks in the hold she limped into Table Bay on 21 February 1790.   
1796
HMS Cormorant Sloop (16), Lt. Thomas Goyy, burnt and blown up by accident, at Port-au-Prince, St. Domingo.
1797
HMS Hamadryad (36), Thomas Elphinstone, blown on shore in Algier Bay.
1804
HMS Mallard Gun-boat (12), Lt. George William Miles,due to the neglect of her captain and master grounded near Calais and was captured.
1805
HMS Egyptienne (40), Lt. P. C. Handfield Acting, and HMS Loire (40), Cptn. Frederick Maitland captured French frigate Libre (40), Cptn. Descorches,off Rochefort.
1810
Boats of HMS Diana (38), Capt. Charles Grant, took and burnt French frigate Elize ashore in the Baie de la Hougue
1811
HMS Hero (74), Cptn. James Newman shipwrecked on Hank Sand, off the Texel.
HMS Grasshopper, Cptn Fanshawe, beat clean over the wreck of the Hero, and went ashore. The sloop was instantly taken possession of by the enemy, and the captain and crew made prisoners of war.
HMS St George (98), Cptn. Guion, and bearing the flag of Admiral Reynolds, and HMS Defence (74), Cptn David Atkins, ran aground off Torsminde at the west coast of Jutland and were lost.
1814
Treaty of Ghent ends the War of 1812.

Hello shipmates.
No update on this post ...
I have decided to have a go at carving the Captain's entrance to the victory.
I have watched numerous video's on Utube on how to do wood carvings.
Janos's page of carvings are a real inspiration to me. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/
I just need to find some close up photos of the entrance to start.
Basswood is my choice of timber being a novice.
 
May I wish you all a very happy Christmas and a very good new year.
 
Regards Antony.

Ho ho  Friends
 
Just want to wish everyone a Happy Christmas
 
Børge
 
 

I've fitted and installed my cap rail

Hi Jan,
 
Being stubborn and being from Rotterdam, isn't that telling us the same thing twice ?
I know it's not fun to break things down you put hard work into, but in this case, I would reconsider removing and redoing the bulwarks. gettnig your gunports in the wrong place is going to give ris to all kins of problems later on (things not fitting, or being in the wrong place althogether...)
You could even go to a shop downtown to get you some replacement wood (Westewagenstraat. They are more into trains, but they used to have some plywood and other basic materials).
 
Jan

Thanks again to those who have followed this build...I should be getting back to it later this winter.
 

 

 

 

This will be the last update for now I think. Everything is completed on the hull and sail making and all mast and rigging work is left. I'm saving the remainder for a later date and going back to work on the Lobster Smack build for awhile. Thanks to those who have followed my builds thus far.
 
Be sure to check out my latest build log picture show on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUXORrfEZoY
 
       

HERE'S HOPING EVERYONE HERE HAS A FANTASTIC CHRISTMAS
AND LET US LOOK FORWARD TO A FRUITFUL NEW YEAR