egkb

Tony,
That is a splendid buoy that you have crafted and photographed well. Here is a picture of a real, cork one at the maritime museum in Toulon. It has split in the middle and reveals pegs that held the cork slabs together. 
 

 
I was on a cruise ship that stopped in Toulon in 2007 and was impressed by the many models they have including one enormous one (15 feet long?) which could tilt from side to side and was used to train crews. Well worth a visit when we are allowed to travel again. 
 
George
 

And Finished the Buoy ..
 
 

Hi Gang ..  This morning I got going on the Anchor Buoy (Nun Buoy) ..  I'm only doing one as I plan on leaving an Anchor with its Cable (leading onboard) on the Base Board and the Buoy will be attached to this.. if you follow 🤨
 
Tricky wee devils to do to say the least (kinda glad I only chose to do one lol) but once I thought the process through it got a bit easier (that and a lot of reference work here on MSW not to mention my books)
The first photo shows the lead up work, please note there will be a third line, per side, attached to the pair already shown (each side of the buoy itself) I was originally only going with a pair but it didn't look/feel right !
The wooden buoy itself is a piece of scrap dowel turned on my lathe to this oval and is approx. 1.4mm in length x .75 in width ..  which scales to about 3 feet in length ..Ballahoo is a smaller vessel so this is about 1/3 the size of the Anchor and would come to waist height on a person (give or take) minus the attachments of course..  I painted the buoy black then sanded it to give the somewhat grubby look (a tad like cork in fact 😉)
next job is to tidy things up (get it nice and even in tension and spacing, whip the ends around the eye etc) then attach rope to it.
 
All The Very Best, and as ever Thanks For Stopping By.
 
Eamonn
 
PS if ye ever have any questions please fire away..
 
 

And Finished the Buoy ..
 
 

The hawser holes have a lip which was obviously removed when I moved them, and the lip of the hole in the focsle (I’m sure it has a name), both replaced with plastic card. 
 
you can see from this late war photo of a damaged bow on a Tribal the lips, and also the 2 smoke pots. 

So you’re seeing double, HMS Eskimo (I’ll do her as a late ‘44) with a different porthole ratio as she lost her bow in 1942. 

look'in really good Greg...the guns look sweet.......hairy,  but sweet   

Didn’t like the bracing so I replaced it with metal. The guns are from Micromaster which came with a second hand HMS Eskimo kit. 

I have done up the primer coat hull belts. Comes up OK 

So I’ve lifted the bow, drilled new hawser holes, drilled out the portholes. I’ll need to replace ringols from spares where I’ve sanded them off. Serious it’s a pain to have to do this but can’t be helped. 

So when this comes out I’ll be able to bling her up 

Next build is the HMS Zulu. A tribal class destroyer that has a generic PE set from White Ensign Models. It’s going to be a very aftermarket kit with 3D printing from Micromaster in NZ 

hi folks...  
some slow progress on the syren , 
the hammock netting is all  dunn, and i started to rig the bowsprit.
there are some bits here and there on the ship that i need to finish also... before i can do some more rigging on the masts etc..
 
svein.erik
 

Hi all,
 
I added the coamings and made the planking of the deck. That was a nice work to do.
 

 

 

Thanks for the nice comments all. I’ve made a start and it won’t take me long. There’s only a few pieces to make and I’m in no rush. I’ll keep you posted as I just want this build to be right 

Thanks very much, Eamonn, Roger and Casi. Really appreciated, coming from builders such as yourselves.
 
Tony

I remember going through the same dilemma with the same kit. The kit rigging is necessarily simplistic, partly because the cross section isn't deep enough to contain all the rigging to the mainmast. For example there  is only room for three shrouds on each side whereas from memory I think there would have been at least 11 plus around 5 backstays on each side. I wasn't happy with that degree of paring down and in the end I decided to leave it out and just incorporate a stub mast. Probably not the feedback you wanted, but at least it shows you can get a half decent result from the pared down model:
 

If you really want to press ahead then the best source I know is The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge which, despite the title, just covers (in great detail) his construction of a 1:48 scale model of Victory. Given the degree of standardisation in the Georgian navy it's well worth having as a great source of information about British warships of the period.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Derek

I have Longridge's book, and have removed the rigging diagrams for reference. They have yet another version of the above information (similar for Lifts, short Halyards, if indeed that is what they are stopping at the main topgallant yard. Again - added confusion.
 
The cheapest I see it is $75. I just bought Wolfram zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models, and it has lots of great detail, but doesn't really answer a lot of my questions. Also bought Longridge's book as noted above, McGowan's HMS Victory, McKay's Victory book, etc. and am not getting far. Additional, conflicting yet incomplete information is not really helping.

Hi There .. It can look confusing for sure .. try this book (if you haven't already)  Longridge built a large model of the victory and this is the book he produced, I think many might consider it the Victory 'Bible' ..
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anatomy-Nelsons-Ships-Nepean-Longridge/dp/1854861220/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=The+Anatomy+of+Nelson's+Ships&qid=1619382010&sr=8-1

Well, there are plenty of others who have ended up making the same decision. I've often had to go several steps back, and take it as a learning experience. I hope all goes well on the re-do.
 
Tony

Hi Tony
 
I'm pretty sure now that I pulled it around when I clamped the apron in place.  The solution would have been to remove the apron so I left the whole thing in a bath of IPA overnight.  This has not even touched the glue and everything is still as solid as it was.  So like we do I tried to force it apart and its now damaged.  So I'm going to remake it and I'm ok with this, as it needs to be right.  I'll pick this thread up again once I get to where I was
 
Mark 👍

Well I guess something had to wrong sooner or later.  I was just about to start on the last two rising wood pieces and I thought that I would just check the alignment of the keel again - and its wrong.
 
The angle of the stem has moved by 1.65mm out of alignment and I think this happened when I glued the apron on.  I think that I probably over clamped it and pulled it back somehow.  I cannot pull the stem into alignment as it then stresses and bends the keel upwards.
 
I think this will have to be a complete rebuild which is a shame but hey ho!
 
 

Hi Clogger its not to far off now but I'm going to make the transom timbers first the same way Adrian has in his book.  I will be making a jig so that things are nice and square too.
 
Not much done today as I really needed to give my room a really good clean as I've been making quite a bit of dust.  I've tidied up the sternpost rabbet so that it has a better transition.  I've also just been going over what I've done so far to make sure nothings been missed.
 

I got some more done today - you will be relieved to know that I go back to work tomorrow so my updates will be at my usual slow rate of building!
 
The parts that were previously fitted dried OK but.......I do have a bit of a gap between the stem and the apron.  I tried to scribe these parts together but it didn't quite work out as I had hoped.  Its only a small gap and on my next build I'll learn from my mistake.  
 
I've now cut the stem rabbet which is time consuming but also really pleasing.  I learn't on my last build that getting the rabbet right makes the planking just that little bit easier.  I have noticed that I need to do a little more work on the stern rabbet so I'll have a look at that in the morning.
 
I did make a mistake when I started to cut the rabbet.  I marked it out far too wide and luckily realised this after I had cut it about 1 1/2 down the stem.  I stopped and inlayed a repair piece and then started again once dry.  There's a picture of the repair which obviously only I know about and I'm not going to tell anyone else...............oh hang on a minute 🤣
 
I feel like I'm starting to get somewhere now - Mark

Hi Michael and thanks for your comment - Now it may look perfectly accurate in the pictures but just like everyone else I have to jiggle all of my joints around a bit to get them to fit.  I also have to make loads of adjustments to make the parts fit the master plan as I have found that photocopies have much thicker lines.  This may seem like no big deal but a few slightly thicker joints on a model that's a metre long adds up to a 3mm problem at one end or the other.  I check against the plan more times a day than I care to admit too.
 
I do quite a lot of machining but I always finish my parts by hand.  I prefer to use small Villorbe engineers files as they really rip through the wood if need be.  I can also get a very flat finish on the wood using these too which is another reason why things look on face of it smooth and precise; trust me they are not.  I don't like using sand paper as it just rounds of the edges which makes good joints look sloppy even if they are not.  I think I'm trying to say that I try and keep things flat and as square as possible.  If I could recommend one tool to master its a flat file.   When I do use paper I use fine silicon carbide paper.  Its very thin and seems to last for quite a long time.
 
What you don't see is the amount of pieces that don't make the cut.  If its not going right - it's going in the bin.  I've spent literally and entire weekend making a part only to destroy it accidentally at the last minute.  
 
I hope this answers your question - Mark