piratepete007
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Everything posted by piratepete007
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Max, What a fantastic set of photos we are seeing in this post and they portray an individual who is not at all shy about showing his meticulous work to one and all. You are yet another builder who has discovered the intricacies of a delightfully challenging set of plans. Sure, they are very detailed but they are not prescriptive and anyone can build from the plans whether they wish to make a very basic model or create something a little more complex. They open your eyes to what can be done. Congratulations on what has been achieved so far. Pete -
Very, very impressive Vince. Its not often we see the sails added including the stay sails.
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Mark - I agree with you whole heartedly re the minimal painting which in a way would present more of an authentic weathered look. Maybe, a mass of colour over the full hull could be a bit of a shock ! Mike - do I assume that the 'Age-It EASY' is a water-based material and not oily ? Looks like a good move to use that stain. Pete
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Max, As regards the transom, most builders go for the flat transom rather than create a curvature and why not, its your build ? In my build, after soaking the supplied plywood in water for some time, screwing it down onto a prepared curved surface and then drying in a warm oven, I was able to surprise myself with a very useful curved surface for the transom. What I thought was an impossibility proved to be the opposite and again demonstrating each Euromodel kit is a surprising collection of little gems. As regards the placement of the last gun between frames 8 & 9, your solution was my solution. Others have removed part of the frame to accommodate the full gun but that seems a pointless exercise as it will all be hidden. The bottom line is that the Euromodel drawings are incredibly detailed and you need to add or subtract what you want and just remember that this is not a true kit where the outcome is totally predictable and the end result the same as every one elses. It will, in many respects, be your interpretation creating your very own design. Regards, Pete
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Hi Max, Will follow your build log with great interest and as you have already found out, this is a 'kit' that actively encourages your own input. My own writings on this build were deliberately detailed to enable the potential builder to select what direction they wished to take and were never intended to be totally prescriptive. All the best and please PM whenever you wish. Pete
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Mike, I agree with your above comments (and humbly say thank you). A Euromodel 'kit' build is a fascinating experience because unlike any others, there are real challenges all the time. They are not difficult to overcome but they do make you think and they do allow you to add your own touches so I am looking forward to seeing how this ship evolves. Given your enthusiasm and your great attention to every small detail, this is going to be a great experience for the many who follow you. Pete
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Mike, Finishing the gun deck bulwarks, carriages, etc in resplendent colours and timbers reminds me of the construction of ship's stoves. We do them because we can but the shame of it is that almost all of it will not be visible. So it comes down to personal choices. As regards the bulwark thickness at gun deck level, Keith Julier did indeed take short cuts and yes the thickness using his method would be a problem when it comes to placement of the gun carriages and cannons. So my advice would be to plank between the frames. Pete
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Jaager - thanks for a quick response. Detail is great and very much appreciated;the info substantiates what I was guessing at. Pete
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Can somebody give me an idea of the type of dimension that I would expect for the 'room and space' for the frames of an English schooner of the 18C. Reason for asking is that I would like to add trennals/ treenails to the hull of a 1:80 model and therefore am looking for a reasonable frame centre to frame centre measurement that is not too wildly exaggerated. Pete
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Little comment needs to be made regarding the previous post but I feel moved to make the following points. If you were to actually purchase the kit (and by the way it is only $US 627, not $US800), you would be in the position of discovering that the extensive drawings contain so much detail that you are literally drawn into evolving your own unique build. It has the conventional kit bulkhead frames and first and second planking and so on. For me, the price is a little high but the VALUE is incredible. Look at the work on Le Renommee by J.P. and Landlubber Mike and note how different their builds are. This is no standard 'kit' build for sure but the level of challenge steers you away from the usual kit build. Build a Euromodel kit and the doorway is then open to start thinking about a scratch build. Also, the Euromodel website does contain some very useful notes on the Renomme build. Pete
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I have sent Allatum the information that he requires. Did not want to clutter this posting ! Pete
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Vince, Of all the models built and that I have seen from this Euromodel-supplied 'kit', I have to say that the detail shown in your build is just one of a few that stand out above the rest. You have emulated the fine detail from the drawings and this is the unsung hallmark of Euromodel; their drawings are there to be copied to the degree that you feel comfortable with …. and you are so comfortable with showing the absolute detail. Congratulations. Pete
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The bee (and bee block) were small appendages fitted near the forward end of the bowsprit on either side and appeared around about 1700. Their function was to assist with a number of stays through the provision of one or more sheaves in each bee. Whilst Lee has accurately described these for English ships in his text, I am wondering how much they differed in structure and positioning and time when included on French ships such as the La Renommee (launched in 1744). Any guidance would be much appreciated. Pete
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Mark - I have been taking a sabbatical leave from shipbuilding due to house shifting but keeping an eye on your great work nevertheless. Very narrow tape can be obtained from auto supply places - the tape is used widely in auto spray shops where fine separation of paint edges is required. It has a very strong adhesive on one side. Might provide the solution. Pete
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Mike, 'Out of the darkness' - shifting house has taken its toll on me for the last eight weeks but now I am back again. No work space until another 2-3 weeks but all will be good. In my build (yes, I found the box with this ship in it) I definitely faired the lower edge of that last bulkhead and I guess a few others forward of that. The result, as you suggest, produced a more flattened profile but I was content with that and the planking went well. It was a major decision but I believe the correct one. Enjoying the meticulous approach of this build and respect your ability to amend what the 'kit' presents. Pete
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Whow Vince, those sails with their impressive detail are a sight to behold. Pete
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Mark, You are 'happy' with your finished model and the work involved ? You should be 'ecstatic' having built such a fine model - it was a true labor of love on your part and our discussions proved to be highly stimulating and the prodding I received from you certainly expanded my knowledge base. So, many thanks for that. Like many others, sharing your journey was both an honor and a privilege. You proved to others that although this 'kit' may be seen as difficult by some, your persistence showed otherwise (its as difficult as you wish to make it). All the best. Pete
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Hey Vince, Every builder is an individual and sometimes it concerns me that such incredible logs posted by the likes of Ken and Mark for the Royal William will deter others from carrying on with their builds. Be not embarrassed by their good works (obviously not as your work does continue). One of the little appreciated virtues of using a Euromodel 'kit' is that it allows for, and openly encourages, the builder to build the ship their way and when you compare yours with Ken and Mark, they are all different. The construction of the masts with all their rigging off the ship is a refreshing approach to see. The kit does supply material for sail construction but so few go that far in their builds and to include these will have to produce a fantastic and exciting extra touch to the finished product. Pete
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Everything looks so authenetic Mark. Well done. Pete
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Congrats Mark - sometimes it's a little hard to 'step outside the square' (in this case the drawings), but you did and that is great. The comment you made regarding the crossjack is historically valid for that time period where the running lift rigging was replaced by a standing lift rigging. Your overall rigging from bow to stern is the best part of the ship build. Pete
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Ken, I have learnt many things along the way and thanks for that. The final product is a sight to behold and the project was finished in a remarkably short time. Many things in that build certainly had your stamp on it ! Well done. Pete
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Mark, Really like the jeer tackle area shown under the top. Just looks so authentic. Pete
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Ken, So now the journey is virtually completed and many of us have indeed followed your wonderful build. The plans indeed are a challenge but they hold many amazing 'secrets' and with the right encouragement from members you kept going and continually discovered more and more detail. That for you was the delight in building this ship. In the end, it is not a difficult ship to build but one that requires patience and that you had plenty of. Your efforts gave back to us the encouragement that we all needed to keep going with our own projects. As an old English saying goes (being an Aussie, I am guessing its correct) ... 'I dips me lid'. Well done Ken. Pete
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Mark, That 'small' change to your spritsail brace is a stand-out feature and well worth the extra effort. I must say again (and many have said it earlier), your attention to detail and keeping things historically accurate has been impressive throughout this build. Pete
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