Wintergreen

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous
 
The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.
 

 
The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.
 
With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.
 

 
These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.
 
The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.
 

 
The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.
 

 
The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.
 
The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.
 

 
I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.
 
The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.
 

 
There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.
 
The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.
 

 
The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.
 
The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.
 

 
The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.
 
The last picture shows the present state of the stern.
 

 
The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.
 
Ed

Michael, this one is for you!  Isn't there a beer commercial with a very similar jingle?  These are my display cases.  They are made of mahogany left over from construction of the house.  There is a can light in each bay (I think you Canadians call them pot lights).  The glass floor of the upper tier allows light into the lower tier.  
 

 
Some of the occupants of my dockyard are Mantua's Peregrine Galley (the first POB ship I built), Mamoli's Roter Lowe, Amati's Prince (abandoned because of terrible plans), Sergal's Cutty Sark, Model Shipways' Fair American, the Lumberyard's Oneida and Mantua's Victory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then there is my triplet of small ships, Scientific's Cutty (we're not even saying what decade that was built), Admiralty Model's cutter and Chuck's longboat.
 

 
Finally, there is a small display for my other hobby.  Those eggs take up a lot less room than a ship!
 

 
There is a running theme with these ships.  I discovered that I truly dislike rigging.  I keep telling myself that I will finish the rigging on the Cutty and Victory, especially the Victory, but so far it hasn't happened.  That is why I have converted to hull-only models.  Sorry about the photographer in one of the pics, those mirrors make photographs difficult.
 
 

I took everyone's warnings to heart regarding the frieze and was determined to stretch some paper.  I am not at home this week and therefore have no access any tools to attempt a frame like Michael demonstrated.  I had been using masking tape to hold the paper and decided to try gummed packing tape, as recommended in TFFM.  The local Staples does not carry it.  Something about "Nobody has used that for years".  I tried a series of clamps instead of tape but did not get equal pull across the edge of the paper.  So, with nothing to lose but time and patience, I decided to make the friezes from the paper painted with enamel.
 
In examining the draughts and a photo of a contemporary model of Atalanta, it appears the shear plank is much narrower than that called for in TFFM. The lower row of friezes buts up against the inferior edge of the shear plank. Consequently, the lower frieze is positioned too low and does not extend across the top of the gun port openings.  This left me with four options:  1) remove the shear plank and all the planking down to the lower edge of the gun port, resizing the width of four rows of planking, 2) redraw the lower frieze so that it is 2 mm narrower, approximating the width of the upper row of the frieze, 3) keep the dimensions of the lower the frieze and install it below the too-thick shear plank or 4) skip the frieze.  Well, number 1 was not going to happen and I really wanted that splash of color the frieze would provide.  I felt that narrowing the lower frieze would make the decoration seem out of balance.  That left me with option 3, installing the frieze below the shear plank, knowing it extends too low on the hull.  After carefully examining the draughts, I did not see any problem in proceeding with this last option.
 
After a little experimentation, the technique that worked the best for me was to cut the piece of frieze a little long to overlap the gun port openings.  Next, apply a thin layer of undiluted yellow glue to the back of the frieze.  Grasp the end of the frieze with a watchmaker's forceps and position the end at the edge of the gunport.  Slowly place the rest of the frieze in position.  Moisten the surface to remove any excess glue.  Finally, gently burnish it in place with a piece of planking.  This has to be done quickly because the glue is set within a minute.  Once completely dry, the edges of the gun port are cleaned up with an 11 blade. The slivers of blue above the gun ports were added separately.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Alan, welcome to my place. Any questions, just ask. Great building table you put to together. 
 
Todays update re the build.
 
First out was to plane a bevel on the floor. Started by setting the for and aft bevels inline with the stem and stern lines. After that I continued the bevel from fore to amidships and from aft to amidships to minimize tear-out. Regarding using cutting handtools, it is an absolute joy to work with very sharp tools. How come you ask? Well, work had me on watch over the Xmas holidays which generated some extra to the budget so I ordered a long sought after addition to my shop, the Tormek sharpening system. I ordered the larger one and I have not regretted it. It IS pricey, yes, but then I do a lot more than just scratch wood for models. 
 
Also, in the pictures I try to let the tools I use linger around in the pictures so that viewers can see what has been used for each step.
 
Stem bevel.
 

 
And stern
 

 
And here the entire line is cut.
 

 
After the bevel was in place I started the rabbet. This was my first go at a rabbet, but I am fairly pleased with the outcome.
Planks are 4 mm thick which I hope makes for a quite easy plank-rabbet mating process  later.
 

 

Hi Alan, welcome to my place. Any questions, just ask. Great building table you put to together. 
 
Todays update re the build.
 
First out was to plane a bevel on the floor. Started by setting the for and aft bevels inline with the stem and stern lines. After that I continued the bevel from fore to amidships and from aft to amidships to minimize tear-out. Regarding using cutting handtools, it is an absolute joy to work with very sharp tools. How come you ask? Well, work had me on watch over the Xmas holidays which generated some extra to the budget so I ordered a long sought after addition to my shop, the Tormek sharpening system. I ordered the larger one and I have not regretted it. It IS pricey, yes, but then I do a lot more than just scratch wood for models. 
 
Also, in the pictures I try to let the tools I use linger around in the pictures so that viewers can see what has been used for each step.
 
Stem bevel.
 

 
And stern
 

 
And here the entire line is cut.
 

 
After the bevel was in place I started the rabbet. This was my first go at a rabbet, but I am fairly pleased with the outcome.
Planks are 4 mm thick which I hope makes for a quite easy plank-rabbet mating process  later.
 

 

Hi everyone,
 
Ah, a short-lived victory. I started casting more cannon today, and the further along I went, the worse the castings. They were starting to lose detail (see first photo). I looked more carefully, and a sticky brown sludge was building up on my mould (see the third picture, where I scraped some of it off). And then when I was trying to clean the mould, part of it ripped away at the muzzle face. So, time to make a new mould...
 
I really wonder if the pewter metal I obtained at a local jewelry supply store was too hot for the rubber mould material. So, I either need to switch to stronger mould material, or find softer metal, perhaps at MicroMark. Or, switch to resin. The learning curve continues.....
 
Before all of this emerged, I started the day building a successful jig (shown being set up in photo 2), to make a wooden collar with an inside diameter tapered to match the taper of the barrels, so I could chuck the cannon in the lathe for cleaning up the front face and drilling the bore. I cut the inside taper by putting the rotating table on the angle table, and then rotating the blank past a mill cutter inside the hole.  It worked really well on a trial; I just have no cannon at this point to use it with!
 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
Well, I finally cast some pewter cannon. Or one, to be exact. It is finished with Jax Pewter Black which appears to work very well. I mechanically cleaned the barrel after casting, with a 3M spider abrader, and then a dip in jeweler's pickle, a rinse in water, and then Jax brushed on. I will live with it for a while; I think it might want some final finish to give it a tiny bit more sheen. It is dead flat black right now. A mean looking cast iron monster....
 
And thanks, David and Michael, for ideas about how to mount these with spacers. That will be my next challenge.
 
Mark

Hi Alan, welcome to my place. Any questions, just ask. Great building table you put to together. 
 
Todays update re the build.
 
First out was to plane a bevel on the floor. Started by setting the for and aft bevels inline with the stem and stern lines. After that I continued the bevel from fore to amidships and from aft to amidships to minimize tear-out. Regarding using cutting handtools, it is an absolute joy to work with very sharp tools. How come you ask? Well, work had me on watch over the Xmas holidays which generated some extra to the budget so I ordered a long sought after addition to my shop, the Tormek sharpening system. I ordered the larger one and I have not regretted it. It IS pricey, yes, but then I do a lot more than just scratch wood for models. 
 
Also, in the pictures I try to let the tools I use linger around in the pictures so that viewers can see what has been used for each step.
 
Stem bevel.
 

 
And stern
 

 
And here the entire line is cut.
 

 
After the bevel was in place I started the rabbet. This was my first go at a rabbet, but I am fairly pleased with the outcome.
Planks are 4 mm thick which I hope makes for a quite easy plank-rabbet mating process  later.
 

 

No worries Mario, you are helping very much. Thanks for the link, I've been to that site a couple of times. My scale is somewhat floating, but nevertheless I want it to be reasonable when it comes to dimensions.
 
As can be seen in the latest images the hull is way wider than the original. (So much for scale) But that has to do with this models purpose, being a candle holder of sort.
 
Ben, you are welcome. There is plenty of space on the first row

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Next installment, some kind of a keel and stem.
Since this boat will be generic I am using my artistic license to build as it suits me. 
 
For safety measures I glued the stem in place twice. Well, not really for safety, it was more of the so familiar:  
"I can do better than that" kind of joint...
 
Happy enough with my second try. The stern came in place somewhat easier. You cant avoid being very humble when you look at other masters work here on MWS. Joints without gaps, straight and true pieces and all. Well well, I might get there some day when time permits.
 
Here are a couple of images of the work so far. Stem and stern are glued and pinned even though I really dont think they would fall off without pins. I took a hot kettle of water to make the stem part with the keel. And it is not really the keel either since it will be a waterline model.
 
Pictures, yes, here they are:
 

 

 
Camera in question is the cell phone, hence the warped corners. 
 
Next up will be to form a floor/bottom for the boat. Since the boat will be half full with sand to position candles in I want to make it a confined structure.
 

Thank you for your interest.
 
I dont mind chair squeeking, the row up front is almost always available (at least in church ...lol )
 
Today I practised sanding to true angles. Big pieces make for forgiving progress...
 
Pinned and glued. The bamboo pin blends nicely into the oak.
 

 
Next up will be the keel, I think.
What I forgot to say is that it will be a waterline model. And for constructions, well, I will return to that topic further down the line.
 

Hi fellow builders!
 
So, first scratch build as well as first build in a fairly long time...what can be of this you say. Actually it is a build that I've been commissioned to do. That doesnt happen too often. For this particular commission I will not charge any payment, it is for pure fun.
 
Quick background story (to keep with MSW rules of non-this and non-that content):
Our pastor came up to me and asked about ideas for a candle holder to place in our church. A candle holder, usually found in Lutheran and Catholic churches, can have the form of a globe, a tree or just a box filled with sand to put small Christmas tree sized candles in.
 
"A boat" was my immediate thought. I tested the idea and it was received well so I went home and took out my sketchbook. But what form should the boat be of? Anything open of course. Reverted to Google that told me about a excavation some 30 years ago at the shore of the Sea of Galilee.
http://www.jesusboat.com/Story-of-the-Jesus-Boat
How appropriate! A boat from the time around the start of our calendar. Not unlikely a type that Jesus, himself, rode in.
Search "Galilee" in our forums and you will see both scratch builds as well as kit.
 
Anyway, out from my pencil came the below sketch. Never mind the tables, they are a separate story. The sketch was presented to the board and accepted. Return question was: "When can it be ready?"
Guess I have to start making sawdust.
 

 
But first I made a card skeleton to grasp the needed size. As it turned out the finished boat needed to be some 20% bigger than the card model.
 

 

 
Obviously the finished boat will be of wood, not card. But card is quick and easy to do a mock up in.
 
Scale, might someone ask for. No such thing. My boat will some 75 cm long from stem to stern. I have blown up the mid section to care for more candles. There is some plan of the real thing on the site above which shows a flat bottom, rather upright sides and curved stem and stern and then the distinct feature of the cutwater. Like found on Roman ships of the time.
 
Wood then? It will be oak. Rather uncommon on these pages because of it coarse grain. The real thing was build in Mediterranean species of which I have none...also the size of my model will cater for rather sturdy dimensions. Oak is known to bend well and it looks great when aged. Another feature of the oak I will use is that it is salvaged from an old motor boat from the 1940s...the trees that was used started to grow some 200-250 years ago...
 
Here are some pieces that I picked out, arent they nice?
 

 
Well, after some hand planing and a couple of runs through my thickness planer the blanks for the stern looks like this:
 

 
That is how far I've come now. 
As always, daywork will interfere with time in the workshop, but I will make the most of it.
 
 

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Mario, I just found what I was looking for in this practicum from Dick Webber (google told me...):
http://dickwebber.publishpath.com/Websites/dickwebber/files/Content/1101334/GalileeBoat.pdf
Planks are in the range of 6"/120 mm wide. Which will give me a handy 10 mm wide plank.

Mario, I just found what I was looking for in this practicum from Dick Webber (google told me...):
http://dickwebber.publishpath.com/Websites/dickwebber/files/Content/1101334/GalileeBoat.pdf
Planks are in the range of 6"/120 mm wide. Which will give me a handy 10 mm wide plank.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

Hello,
 
not much time to work, just a smal update. The upper capstan is nearly done.
 

 

 

 
Alex

Thanks Mario, re "correct as possible" this time it will be a bit different I am planning to ease my pain a bit by not making it a replica or true scale model. Hope you dont get too disappointed friend. 
 
At this point I have no more progress to show, working on ripping planks for flooring and sides. Lots of uninteresting sawdust, but I will take some progress shots nevertheless.
 
Tomorrow current projects at work has send me to London for the week...one of those weeks you know. My workshop will miss me and I it.