Wintergreen

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 
 
Keep it up!

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

What do I know?? I don't fancy either of 'em 😄 

Thank you lads!
Yes Andy, I too like the lines. Always have. And the cold is done and dusted now as you've guessed B.E. 
John I think you better keep an eye on you Marmite stock, I'm sending the Admiral down to your side of the globe next week. NZ though, but you never know 😉 

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

Welcome back Mark!
It is quite apparent that you enjoy the drawing business. Also, knowing that you are lefthanded means that you probably (but not necessarily) is quite apt at the artistic side of drawing also, and not only the engineering side.
(We discussed work benches a long time ago and I envied, still env, your lefthand adapted work bench).
 
Also, I like the reasoning about the false floor in the quarter galleries. It is just on another level of interpreting the original drafts and applying them to a somewhat virtual reality in 1:64.
 
I hope that your nerves get back in working order and so,
Keep it up!

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

Well thank you Gary @FriedClams 🙂 
I totally agree that it is not possible to follow everything here on MSW, there are just too many excellent builds going on all the time.
And yes, cancer can really give you mental ghosts to follow you along. But, being in my mid 50's I am focusing on living many years still! Cheers to you too and all the best!

Barbarian! 
 
John

Wow, that is next level stuff right there. Next up we will se frames with intarsia on the walls depicting some well known battle 😄 
 
Keep it up!

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 
 
Keep it up!

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

What do I know?? I don't fancy either of 'em 😄 

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 
 
Keep it up!

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

Marmite across the North Sea in the U.K. Håkan! We have Vegemite down here! 
 
John

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!