keelhauled

Hi Chap,
Sorry, no updates for some time I'm afraid....
It's still sitting on the bench, somewhat forlorn, behind the Bismarck.
 
I'll get to it one of these days but the Bismarck has assumed priority.
 
I don't think it will touch water though as there is already a hole in the Hull for the lighting Mains Adapter wiring.... 🙂
 
Something more suitable for RC conversion is sitting at home in storage, A/L Marina II.
(So many ships, so little time.... 🙂)
 
Cheers and Regards,
 
Harry.
 
 

Hi everyone, 
 
Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.
 
In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 
 
 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   
 
Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.
 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 
 
Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.
please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.
   
 
Thanks for looking, 
Marc

Wow! what a build.  very impressive - and it looks very small and fiddley. 
 
Sorry to hear about your illness!  I hope that your well soon!
I wish you the best my friend.
 
You're an inspiration!
 
cheers
Marc 

Hi Harry, 
Any updates?  I'm still waiting to see her in the water
 

Wow! what a build.  very impressive - and it looks very small and fiddley. 
 
Sorry to hear about your illness!  I hope that your well soon!
I wish you the best my friend.
 
You're an inspiration!
 
cheers
Marc 

Also, you should check out Harry's other builds. 
 
-marc

Thanks Harry!  However, your Cutty is a gem!  I studied very closely and learned a lot.  Your case is fantastic.   If only I could build a case like that!  If you haven't seen Harry's build and gallery pages on the Cutty, you should check them out.  
 
 
 
 

Hi All,
Small update:
 
Decided to assemble the "Service Boat" storage racks that will be positioned either side of the Main Hanger.
(The other two Service Boats are accommodated on the Hanger Roof.)
 
I assembled the Jig last night and used some candle wax on the surfaces of the Jig that would be exposed to CA.
 
The Jig worked o.k. in terms of correct spacings but required a small clamp to prevent things moving around.
(Even though I have not yet fitted the Racks yet, I'm reasonably confident they'll fit with ought too many issues.)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 

I need to stop "Stressing!!"
I placed the Conning Tower structure on the Forward Superstructure.
Once done, any tiny errors disappear with the sheer size of the Ship.... 🙂
 
I guess I'm being over critical and striving for perfection. 
I have to remind myself that this project is also my first serious foray in the use of Photo Etch.
 
HOF.

Thank you Sir....

Hi All,
Small update:
 
HOF has been playing with Boats again.... 🙂
Spent the day finishing the four Service Boats.
These went together o.k., not too much PE, just enough to keep me honest!!
 
As I mentioned to Rod, (rvchima), these won't be mounted on the Ship for some time yet but good to have them complete.
(It's another 4 magazine "Issues" out of the way.)
Eleven Ships Boats total count.
 
I think tomorrow, I'll deal with a partly consumed PE fret containing components for the Funnel Searchlight Platforms and a coupe of Ventilators that will get mounted on the main Hanger....
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 

Hi All,
Bit of an update, HOF has been working on Ships Boats.... 🙂
So, seven of the eleven are now what I'm going to call complete.
 
Two Dinghy's and two Longboats were easiest until I decided to re-paint the internals with Vallejo "Wood Grain" 
A very careful removal of the PE was a heart in mouth time....
 
The Motorboat was next being the smallest, tiny PE but a good learning....
 
Two Launches, quite complex but I got through o.k.
(The Bow PE piece did not want to play nicely at all so I made my own from Brass Wire for both Launches.)
 
All propellers were a pain to fit onto thier Shafts, in the end, I opened up the hole in the center of the Prop, it made things so much simpler.
The Boats look a little untidy, (In my mind.), up close but look much better viewed "Normally" if that makes sense.
 
(My hat is very firmly off to those that build 1/700 scale!! 🙂)
 
I now have the four "Service" Boats to complete and I guess on to Forward Superstructure PE. (Unless I go down another Part-work rabbit hole!!)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 
 
 

Just brilliant on making those deadeyes, Nenad.  

Alternative dead eyes, max 4mm dia ...
My madness don't allow me to by parts, so, great problem are dead eyes 3-4 dia. Making them from wood with three holes ... not to throw appart, not possible for me.
And idea comes. Tested today succesfully.
Three brass pipes 1mm inside dia, soldered in triangle. When it get cold, cut pieces thick 1mm, clean holes. You can paunt them in desired colour. Rest - rigging them is classical path.
This is just a test, and ropes are not adequate, knots too

 

 

Walking on the edge of patience

Hi Chap,
That is some pretty awesome and detailed work!!
(Puts my "Cutty" to shame.... 🙂)
 
Cheers and Regards,
 
Harry.

Hi everyone, 
 
Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.
 
In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 
 
 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   
 
Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.
 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 
 
Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.
please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.
   
 
Thanks for looking, 
Marc

Hi everyone, 
 
Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.
 
In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 
 
 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   
 
Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.
 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 
 
Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.
please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.
   
 
Thanks for looking, 
Marc

Hi everyone, 
 
Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.
 
In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 
 
 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   
 
Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.
 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 
 
Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.
please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.
   
 
Thanks for looking, 
Marc

Very nice jig!  more milling and lathe magic! the plates are really coming along.

Hi Harr, Grant, and Simon,
 
Thank you for your kind words.  I really appreciate the support!
 
 I spent part of the weekend moving the bunt lines on the main course sail.  I had previously moved the buntline blocks to be more in line with the oldest painting and Campbell's drawing.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  I adjusted the connections further out which would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly.  When I was done, I couldn't really see much of a difference.  I'm sure no one would be able to tell.   Before, I made this change I thought that it looked way off.  now I know that it didn't actually look off even though it was.  I guess that is what experience gains you.  I kind of feel like I waisted the afternoon.  However, if I hadn't of made that change it would have always bothered me and I would have always thought that it was a glaring mistake. 
 
I'll take a picture and add it to the post so that  you can take a look at the difference.
 
Thanks
Marc

Hi Marc,
Just looking in and your model is looking fantastic. You are a braver man than I, rigging the model with sails. After rigging a previous model with square sails, it's a task that I want to avoid from now on! But your sails look great and they're a very nice addition to your model. Good luck going forward.
Cheers,
Peter

Hi Harr, Grant, and Simon,
 
Thank you for your kind words.  I really appreciate the support!
 
 I spent part of the weekend moving the bunt lines on the main course sail.  I had previously moved the buntline blocks to be more in line with the oldest painting and Campbell's drawing.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  I adjusted the connections further out which would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly.  When I was done, I couldn't really see much of a difference.  I'm sure no one would be able to tell.   Before, I made this change I thought that it looked way off.  now I know that it didn't actually look off even though it was.  I guess that is what experience gains you.  I kind of feel like I waisted the afternoon.  However, if I hadn't of made that change it would have always bothered me and I would have always thought that it was a glaring mistake. 
 
I'll take a picture and add it to the post so that  you can take a look at the difference.
 
Thanks
Marc

Hi Harr, Grant, and Simon,
 
Thank you for your kind words.  I really appreciate the support!
 
 I spent part of the weekend moving the bunt lines on the main course sail.  I had previously moved the buntline blocks to be more in line with the oldest painting and Campbell's drawing.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  I adjusted the connections further out which would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly.  When I was done, I couldn't really see much of a difference.  I'm sure no one would be able to tell.   Before, I made this change I thought that it looked way off.  now I know that it didn't actually look off even though it was.  I guess that is what experience gains you.  I kind of feel like I waisted the afternoon.  However, if I hadn't of made that change it would have always bothered me and I would have always thought that it was a glaring mistake. 
 
I'll take a picture and add it to the post so that  you can take a look at the difference.
 
Thanks
Marc

Hi all, 
I have been slowly making progress.  But I have made progress.  I find it amazing that what I think will take 15 minutes takes an hour to rig.  I find that I run a line, then find it wrapped around something or needs to be run differently not to fowl another line, etc.   Then I have to pull it out and re-rig it another time or two.  It's taking much longer than I anticipated.   However, it's fun when I'm not getting aggravated at reworking lines.  One step forward, two steps (or more) back.  
 
This is where I'm at tonight. 

When I rigged  the mast I braced around the yards as I worked from bottom to top. I didn't have any of the actual brace lines rigged.  Per Harry's (HOF) recommendation, I will wait until the end to rig the actual braces.  I just lightly glued the yards into position. This allowed me to run all of the rigging through the fairleads and to the pins as I rigged.  I glued the lines to the pins as I went and this allowed for a very clean process.  However there was a price.  I had a heck of a time running the lines with the yards braced around. Maybe I should have rigged top to bottom?  Anyway For the main mast I decided not to brace the yards around. I'm running all of the lines through the fairlead board (where applicable) then through the fairleads on the shrouds and then I just pulling the lines through the rail to the outboard of the ship. My thought is that at the end, I move the yards  (brace) into their final position and adjust the tension on the lines and belay the lines to the pins, let it sit for a few days and adjust any tension needed, then glue the lines to the pins.  So far,  I've gotten the course through the t-gallant rigged and it seems to be working ok.  
 
here's a shot.  I have taken more photos and will post them after I move them from my camera to the computer. 
 
Take care, stay well, and stay safe. 
best, 
marc
 
A few shots of the model 
 
 

 
Main mast -rigging is loose

 
Aft fore mast rail 

 
 

 
main mast progress. loose rigging

 
Aft side of the main mast spider band - work in progress