kruginmi

Hey, I actually did something (queue fanfare) (and the peasants rejoiced).
 
First up was the supports for the boom shelf on the main mast.  Since this was at an angle, I used some old business cards (hated that company) to define the angle required at four points (the sides ended up being 90 degrees, which was actually a good thing).  Then a simple matter to pull out some basswood and cut to length, cut to angle and cut the beveled outer edge.  I am not going to say I messed up and cut the same angle twice (but I did).

 
Put this into it's place and now my twitch can go away.  I possibly could have done more than four, but when the rigging is complete and boom installed this will be hard to see anyway. (and yes I scraped away the sanding sealer to insure the piece will stay put when glued).

Finally I need to add a cheek block way up at the tippity top (technical term).   I modified a block I had laying around from the kit and glued on.  Given that the main gaff topsail line runs through this I thought it prudent to add some reinforcement so I drilled through both the block and mast and ran a section of brad nail through to insure it stays where it was.

Once snipped and super glued it was ready to go.
 
So......I can actually start putting the shrouds in place and descend into ratline purgatory.  It will at least get my knot tying skills back up.  Three shrouds per side.  Something for this weekend (and the next, and the next, and....you get the picture).
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 
Edit:  I should add the mast cap and trestle trees are not parallel to the deck, which is an issue.  However, this mast was (originally) constructed a long time ago in a house far far away.  While I have done major reconstruction to make it more attuned with the Pride of Baltimore, I decided to leave the mast cap and trestle trees as originally assembled since it would require much surgery.  It is what it is.

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

So this happened today.  So much for removing the main mast for storage, guess I am committed now LOL.  Next up is the fore mast.
 
Funny how in the mind these shrouds took on the aura of the Victory, with seemingly thousands of ratline knots to tie.  This is a LOT easier.  Besides, every fifth run will be a wooden rod making it even easier.  


-Mark

So this happened today.  So much for removing the main mast for storage, guess I am committed now LOL.  Next up is the fore mast.
 
Funny how in the mind these shrouds took on the aura of the Victory, with seemingly thousands of ratline knots to tie.  This is a LOT easier.  Besides, every fifth run will be a wooden rod making it even easier.  


-Mark

Another quick update - amazing what you can do when you actually sit down and do something.
 
I wanted to get those 4 more dead-eyes affixed while I was in the zone.  I only have two hands (with meat hooks for fingers) so I knew right away a jig would be in order.  Pretty sure what I ended up making isn't original, but I built on the fly and it works for me.  It slips onto the chain plates and allows me to (literally) pin the deadeyes in place, even the one not affixed to the shrouds.  Then it is easy to tension, mark and affix off ship.
 

 
The following sequence is self explanatory.  Let me know if anything is unclear.

 
This actually isn't the 'final' height since after they are joined to the lower dead-eyes, the shrouds are joined together near the trestle trees.  The dead-eyes will be rigged with the jig in place (though nothing pinned).  It gives a visual indicator of height to achieve.
 
I will also be able to join the rear shroud with the rear of the opposing side a lot easier this way.  Win Win.
 
One key thing to check (LOL) is that the dead-eye block itself slips in between the main and top mast.  Mine barely did.  If not, tying would still be easier with all the slack present.

 
I will make one jig for P/S mainmast and one for the P/S foremast (using both sides of the jig).  I put this jig in the win column for me.
Mark
 

 

A good quiet morning, a good cup of coffee and some good jazz equates to progress.

 
Each mast has three main shrouds.  Each side has one double ended and then two single ended (ones from each side are seized together) so.....only four more dead eyes to tie when I figure out the length required for the double ended ones.

 
Might have a chance to get these masts set in this weekend.  Now for some quality time with my Stratocaster.
-Mark

Another quick update - amazing what you can do when you actually sit down and do something.
 
I wanted to get those 4 more dead-eyes affixed while I was in the zone.  I only have two hands (with meat hooks for fingers) so I knew right away a jig would be in order.  Pretty sure what I ended up making isn't original, but I built on the fly and it works for me.  It slips onto the chain plates and allows me to (literally) pin the deadeyes in place, even the one not affixed to the shrouds.  Then it is easy to tension, mark and affix off ship.
 

 
The following sequence is self explanatory.  Let me know if anything is unclear.

 
This actually isn't the 'final' height since after they are joined to the lower dead-eyes, the shrouds are joined together near the trestle trees.  The dead-eyes will be rigged with the jig in place (though nothing pinned).  It gives a visual indicator of height to achieve.
 
I will also be able to join the rear shroud with the rear of the opposing side a lot easier this way.  Win Win.
 
One key thing to check (LOL) is that the dead-eye block itself slips in between the main and top mast.  Mine barely did.  If not, tying would still be easier with all the slack present.

 
I will make one jig for P/S mainmast and one for the P/S foremast (using both sides of the jig).  I put this jig in the win column for me.
Mark
 

 

Another quick update - amazing what you can do when you actually sit down and do something.
 
I wanted to get those 4 more dead-eyes affixed while I was in the zone.  I only have two hands (with meat hooks for fingers) so I knew right away a jig would be in order.  Pretty sure what I ended up making isn't original, but I built on the fly and it works for me.  It slips onto the chain plates and allows me to (literally) pin the deadeyes in place, even the one not affixed to the shrouds.  Then it is easy to tension, mark and affix off ship.
 

 
The following sequence is self explanatory.  Let me know if anything is unclear.

 
This actually isn't the 'final' height since after they are joined to the lower dead-eyes, the shrouds are joined together near the trestle trees.  The dead-eyes will be rigged with the jig in place (though nothing pinned).  It gives a visual indicator of height to achieve.
 
I will also be able to join the rear shroud with the rear of the opposing side a lot easier this way.  Win Win.
 
One key thing to check (LOL) is that the dead-eye block itself slips in between the main and top mast.  Mine barely did.  If not, tying would still be easier with all the slack present.

 
I will make one jig for P/S mainmast and one for the P/S foremast (using both sides of the jig).  I put this jig in the win column for me.
Mark
 

 

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.
 
Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 
I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.
 
When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).
 
Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.
 
RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).
Mark
 

A good quiet morning, a good cup of coffee and some good jazz equates to progress.

 
Each mast has three main shrouds.  Each side has one double ended and then two single ended (ones from each side are seized together) so.....only four more dead eyes to tie when I figure out the length required for the double ended ones.

 
Might have a chance to get these masts set in this weekend.  Now for some quality time with my Stratocaster.
-Mark

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.
 
Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 
I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.
 
When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).
 
Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.
 
RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).
Mark
 

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.
 
Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 
I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.
 
When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).
 
Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.
 
RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).
Mark
 

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.
 
Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 
I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.
 
When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).
 
Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.
 
RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).
Mark
 

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

Alright, the Lady Anne is the project for the Winter.  Time to put it in the done column.  Pulled it out of storage, found the Pride of Baltimore plans, and actually found all the masting and sparring I had completed.
 

 
I have a ropewalk but I am okay with using stuff at hand.  Plus this is a work boat so I don't even need all the rigging matching in color.  I pulled out all of the prospective 'rope' I had stuffed here and there.  Four sizes from .008 to .025 should do the job, in both tanish and blackish (though I like brown for the shrouds).
 

 
Using my thread sorter I think I found the threads that I will use:
 

 
The key test (I did pick up blocks from Syren of course) was would the fine thread fit through the 1/8" blocks:
 

 
Success!  Now to get the workspace organized, make sure the the masts are totally setup then getting onto those ratlines (everyone's favorite part).
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.
 
Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 
I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.
 
When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).
 
Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.
 
RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).
Mark
 

Hey, I actually did something (queue fanfare) (and the peasants rejoiced).
 
First up was the supports for the boom shelf on the main mast.  Since this was at an angle, I used some old business cards (hated that company) to define the angle required at four points (the sides ended up being 90 degrees, which was actually a good thing).  Then a simple matter to pull out some basswood and cut to length, cut to angle and cut the beveled outer edge.  I am not going to say I messed up and cut the same angle twice (but I did).

 
Put this into it's place and now my twitch can go away.  I possibly could have done more than four, but when the rigging is complete and boom installed this will be hard to see anyway. (and yes I scraped away the sanding sealer to insure the piece will stay put when glued).

Finally I need to add a cheek block way up at the tippity top (technical term).   I modified a block I had laying around from the kit and glued on.  Given that the main gaff topsail line runs through this I thought it prudent to add some reinforcement so I drilled through both the block and mast and ran a section of brad nail through to insure it stays where it was.

Once snipped and super glued it was ready to go.
 
So......I can actually start putting the shrouds in place and descend into ratline purgatory.  It will at least get my knot tying skills back up.  Three shrouds per side.  Something for this weekend (and the next, and the next, and....you get the picture).
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 
Edit:  I should add the mast cap and trestle trees are not parallel to the deck, which is an issue.  However, this mast was (originally) constructed a long time ago in a house far far away.  While I have done major reconstruction to make it more attuned with the Pride of Baltimore, I decided to leave the mast cap and trestle trees as originally assembled since it would require much surgery.  It is what it is.

Hey, I actually did something (queue fanfare) (and the peasants rejoiced).
 
First up was the supports for the boom shelf on the main mast.  Since this was at an angle, I used some old business cards (hated that company) to define the angle required at four points (the sides ended up being 90 degrees, which was actually a good thing).  Then a simple matter to pull out some basswood and cut to length, cut to angle and cut the beveled outer edge.  I am not going to say I messed up and cut the same angle twice (but I did).

 
Put this into it's place and now my twitch can go away.  I possibly could have done more than four, but when the rigging is complete and boom installed this will be hard to see anyway. (and yes I scraped away the sanding sealer to insure the piece will stay put when glued).

Finally I need to add a cheek block way up at the tippity top (technical term).   I modified a block I had laying around from the kit and glued on.  Given that the main gaff topsail line runs through this I thought it prudent to add some reinforcement so I drilled through both the block and mast and ran a section of brad nail through to insure it stays where it was.

Once snipped and super glued it was ready to go.
 
So......I can actually start putting the shrouds in place and descend into ratline purgatory.  It will at least get my knot tying skills back up.  Three shrouds per side.  Something for this weekend (and the next, and the next, and....you get the picture).
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 
Edit:  I should add the mast cap and trestle trees are not parallel to the deck, which is an issue.  However, this mast was (originally) constructed a long time ago in a house far far away.  While I have done major reconstruction to make it more attuned with the Pride of Baltimore, I decided to leave the mast cap and trestle trees as originally assembled since it would require much surgery.  It is what it is.

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

Alright, the Lady Anne is the project for the Winter.  Time to put it in the done column.  Pulled it out of storage, found the Pride of Baltimore plans, and actually found all the masting and sparring I had completed.
 

 
I have a ropewalk but I am okay with using stuff at hand.  Plus this is a work boat so I don't even need all the rigging matching in color.  I pulled out all of the prospective 'rope' I had stuffed here and there.  Four sizes from .008 to .025 should do the job, in both tanish and blackish (though I like brown for the shrouds).
 

 
Using my thread sorter I think I found the threads that I will use:
 

 
The key test (I did pick up blocks from Syren of course) was would the fine thread fit through the 1/8" blocks:
 

 
Success!  Now to get the workspace organized, make sure the the masts are totally setup then getting onto those ratlines (everyone's favorite part).
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

Hey Mark,
 
Great to see you back at the bench again.

Hi Mark .. Great to see this Lady back on your work bench ..
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.
 
First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark