kruginmi

I did a second pass and updated the previous post with the new improved spreadsheet.  I opted for the slightly larger blocks than true scale (for my stump fingers and also to make them actually usable).  I also specked out some line.  This will be quite the adventure.  How many blocks will be eaten by the floor monster?
 
Quite the hours pouring over the plans, switching pages every 30 seconds.  Just when you think you have it figured out, you see another line that you need to trace and figure out.  I am opting out of the studding sails to make this easier - LOL.  It is interesting thinking about what size line you think should be used and then actual pull out some samples and realize how over sized your thinking is.  Guess I am use to looking at models with that over sized rigging.
 
I am going to use the Harvey supplied line for the ratlines.  Not quite authentic but it will look pretty good.
 
Now for some last checking of the deck and then on to sealing and clear coating.  
 
-Mark

I did a first pass at the rigging block requirements and I am running just shy of 200 blocks (I won't even say what the original kit supplied).
 
Note:  I did replace all the snatch blocks with single blocks.
 


I definitely will need a second/third pass for confirmation but using Chuck's services this is around $80, which is great.  I hopefully will get these as a celebration once I find that great new job (recently downsized - that is a bummer).  Hoping to pick these up soon!
 
In the meantime I will work on finalizing all the deck / mast / yard / booms / gaffs so they can be sealed and clear coated.  I do need to figure out the hull anchor points for the main shrouds.
 
-Mark
 

Pulled the cannons out of storage and did some rehab on them.  Pulled the kit supplied wheels off and replaced with ones cut from a walnut dowel.  They were glued into position (do not actually rotate).  Pretty simple rigging prep - continental breeching as shown by one cannon, and just the block and tackle from the bulkhead to the rear of each carriage.
I have eight cannon ports but since this is not a warship I will only affix the center four.  These are used to keep marauders and riff raff at bay.  The rest of the cannon are stored in the hold.  This also helps a lot with deck clutter.

Finally, to keep the cannon from wandering on the deck (and make rigging easier) I have them affixed with a dowel through their base.  Can't get much more solid than that.

I still need to put the ring bolts into the bulkhead but I am putting the cannons themselves into the done column (besides blackening that last cannon).  -Mark

Pulled the cannons out of storage and did some rehab on them.  Pulled the kit supplied wheels off and replaced with ones cut from a walnut dowel.  They were glued into position (do not actually rotate).  Pretty simple rigging prep - continental breeching as shown by one cannon, and just the block and tackle from the bulkhead to the rear of each carriage.
I have eight cannon ports but since this is not a warship I will only affix the center four.  These are used to keep marauders and riff raff at bay.  The rest of the cannon are stored in the hold.  This also helps a lot with deck clutter.

Finally, to keep the cannon from wandering on the deck (and make rigging easier) I have them affixed with a dowel through their base.  Can't get much more solid than that.

I still need to put the ring bolts into the bulkhead but I am putting the cannons themselves into the done column (besides blackening that last cannon).  -Mark

I have the mainmast up to par.  The mast head height was greater than the foremast was everything fit in fine.

To clear the deck house the main boom needed to be higher than I wanted.  My ship, so I am saying it allows the crew better deck working conditions.  Everything  visually looks good to go. 

Next up is to figure out the makeup and content of the cannons do a final check that everything is accounted for.  Then sanding sealer and a clear coat over everything.
 
-Mark
 

On to finishing up the foremast.  My aim through these steps is to finish up the base construction (no blocks affixed) so that I can sanding seal and then apply the top clear coat.
 
I see that 7 more cleats are required at the base of the mast.  I really did not like what I produced for the main boom and this was the kick to fix it.  I produce a wood profile with my Byrnes saw and some circle file work on the top of the piece.  I then constructed a jig that would allow me to cut equal sized cleats using my razor saw.  Worked like a charm.  A little sanding for shape afterwords and I am back in business (definitely love ~1/48th scale).
 

In the following compare the new cleat (center) with two old ones near the base.

Added all the fiddley bits to the mast head and above.  I did run into an issue with the mast as built (for the Harvey) had a much shorter head height to deploy the three blocks holding up the fore boom (peak halliard line) .  I decided to use the top ring bolt both for the main topmast stay and the peak halliard.  That will work.  I added my iron (paper) band just below the mast head and affixed two ring bolts for the base of the futtock shrouds.
 
I also did some superior mast shaping above to create two ledges (and thru holes) above for the necessary lines running up from the jib boom and used for the yards if I do say so myself. 

As I start to gather my supplies for actual rigging the following jig does wonders for me (with some thanks to Chuck for the pictorial).  You can see (and feel) examples of various sizes of line for positive reinforcement.  At the top of the line size chart I have annotated in pencil what this corresponds to in 1/48 scale (2" to 10").
A little more clean up on the foremast and then on to the main.  Hopefully by the end of the weekend these should all be done.  After this the last remaining pieces to fit are the cannons (to chase of marauders).  I don't like their current look so will have to come up with something.  Of the six I have, four will be stowed to the bulkhead wall.
 
Stay Building - Mark
 

I have the mainmast up to par.  The mast head height was greater than the foremast was everything fit in fine.

To clear the deck house the main boom needed to be higher than I wanted.  My ship, so I am saying it allows the crew better deck working conditions.  Everything  visually looks good to go. 

Next up is to figure out the makeup and content of the cannons do a final check that everything is accounted for.  Then sanding sealer and a clear coat over everything.
 
-Mark
 

On to finishing up the foremast.  My aim through these steps is to finish up the base construction (no blocks affixed) so that I can sanding seal and then apply the top clear coat.
 
I see that 7 more cleats are required at the base of the mast.  I really did not like what I produced for the main boom and this was the kick to fix it.  I produce a wood profile with my Byrnes saw and some circle file work on the top of the piece.  I then constructed a jig that would allow me to cut equal sized cleats using my razor saw.  Worked like a charm.  A little sanding for shape afterwords and I am back in business (definitely love ~1/48th scale).
 

In the following compare the new cleat (center) with two old ones near the base.

Added all the fiddley bits to the mast head and above.  I did run into an issue with the mast as built (for the Harvey) had a much shorter head height to deploy the three blocks holding up the fore boom (peak halliard line) .  I decided to use the top ring bolt both for the main topmast stay and the peak halliard.  That will work.  I added my iron (paper) band just below the mast head and affixed two ring bolts for the base of the futtock shrouds.
 
I also did some superior mast shaping above to create two ledges (and thru holes) above for the necessary lines running up from the jib boom and used for the yards if I do say so myself. 

As I start to gather my supplies for actual rigging the following jig does wonders for me (with some thanks to Chuck for the pictorial).  You can see (and feel) examples of various sizes of line for positive reinforcement.  At the top of the line size chart I have annotated in pencil what this corresponds to in 1/48 scale (2" to 10").
A little more clean up on the foremast and then on to the main.  Hopefully by the end of the weekend these should all be done.  After this the last remaining pieces to fit are the cannons (to chase of marauders).  I don't like their current look so will have to come up with something.  Of the six I have, four will be stowed to the bulkhead wall.
 
Stay Building - Mark
 

Time for a little bowsprit bashing.  I didn't like the Harvey design at all.  So, a little Pride of Baltimore and a little Krug sprinkled in for good measure.  Add a couple of hours and whamo.  The lateral foot rope supports should be on a hinge to connect, but again, not to extend this build unnecessarily as well as provide a more realistic foot rope droop it is now fixed.  I haven't glued in the jib boom as of yet.
 
Still have the lashings from the stem to the bowsprit, and from the bowsprit to the jib boom.
 
Next up is to work my way up the foremast and add all the necessary connect points.    -Mark

Time for a little bowsprit bashing.  I didn't like the Harvey design at all.  So, a little Pride of Baltimore and a little Krug sprinkled in for good measure.  Add a couple of hours and whamo.  The lateral foot rope supports should be on a hinge to connect, but again, not to extend this build unnecessarily as well as provide a more realistic foot rope droop it is now fixed.  I haven't glued in the jib boom as of yet.
 
Still have the lashings from the stem to the bowsprit, and from the bowsprit to the jib boom.
 
Next up is to work my way up the foremast and add all the necessary connect points.    -Mark

Not too bad for a few days work.  I got all the booms and yards done for the ship.  A lot more doing than sitting around thinking that is for sure.  This afternoon finished the fore topsail and topgallant yard arms.  Pretty happy with the result.

Close up of the fore yards:
 

Close up of the main boom and gaff (along with ring tail boom and gaff).  Top of pic is the the fore gaff.

Next up is hammering the jib boom into shape.
 
I did start pondering the actual rigging of the ship and am opting for the use of wire for attaching the blocks.  As an earlier example I include a pic of my first ship (the Swift of course).  I hopefully will do a more accurate job of using the wire but the visual is there:

I like the color of the wire (I have lots more on the spool) and am thinking of using it as is.
 
Stay Building My Friends - Mark

Trying to keep the momentum going (when possible) today I tackled the fore and main gaffs, as well as the ringtail boom and yard.  The gaffs are essentially the same sans length, so I inverted the main gaff to show the two ringbolts underneath both.  On top is a triangular piece of wire spanning the jaws that the rigging attaches to.

Whoops, forgot to final shape the jaws (the camera never lies - LOL).  They will be symmetrical shortly.
 
Next up are the fore topsail and topgallant and then to hack the bowsprit into something befitting such a vessel.   Thanks for stopping by!  -Mark

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

Seems to me this build has loitered far too long.  I keep finding more stuff to improve / modify / create and that equals time.  So many projects on the shelf.  I have decided to to keep things moving and not just slap it together, but push forward.  The primary purpose of this build is to work out rigging construction techniques, being a full representation of the Pride of Baltimore.
 
With the deck getting tidied up, the natural next steps where the yards, with the fore yard the biggest.  I had previously tried my hand at this yard but it was early in my career (lol).  The basswood middle section (installed in eight sections) definitely had problems at the mating with the walnut.  First up (pic1) I excised these sections and used four pieces of basswood (a LOT easier) which was then carved and sanded to the appropriate shape.  They stick out color wise a little, so I did both sides to the same dimensions:  make it symmetrical and you can say it is an artistic add.
 
For the metal hoop in the middle I opted for black paper (scrap booking).  The extension piece was boxwood for strength.  On the first try I eyeballed it and didn't use a correct circumference - it didn't fit around the foremast.  I redid it a second time.  Add some cleats at the end (after appropriately beveling the ends) and call it good.  Not entirely accurate but as stated earlier, a good compromise.
 
Pic 2 shows the yard on deck and Pic 3 gives the overall look at the width effect.  
 
Now for the remaining two yards followed by the booms.  This ship will not have studding sails, but will have a ring tail sail.
 
Mark

Epic ! 
 
Eamonn

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

Seems to me this build has loitered far too long.  I keep finding more stuff to improve / modify / create and that equals time.  So many projects on the shelf.  I have decided to to keep things moving and not just slap it together, but push forward.  The primary purpose of this build is to work out rigging construction techniques, being a full representation of the Pride of Baltimore.
 
With the deck getting tidied up, the natural next steps where the yards, with the fore yard the biggest.  I had previously tried my hand at this yard but it was early in my career (lol).  The basswood middle section (installed in eight sections) definitely had problems at the mating with the walnut.  First up (pic1) I excised these sections and used four pieces of basswood (a LOT easier) which was then carved and sanded to the appropriate shape.  They stick out color wise a little, so I did both sides to the same dimensions:  make it symmetrical and you can say it is an artistic add.
 
For the metal hoop in the middle I opted for black paper (scrap booking).  The extension piece was boxwood for strength.  On the first try I eyeballed it and didn't use a correct circumference - it didn't fit around the foremast.  I redid it a second time.  Add some cleats at the end (after appropriately beveling the ends) and call it good.  Not entirely accurate but as stated earlier, a good compromise.
 
Pic 2 shows the yard on deck and Pic 3 gives the overall look at the width effect.  
 
Now for the remaining two yards followed by the booms.  This ship will not have studding sails, but will have a ring tail sail.
 
Mark

With the deck starting to come together I opted to tackle the Mast / Deck area next.  The kit envisioned a very pain affair (pic 1).  This would never do.  So after marking the angle of the deck on the mast, also the required height required for the lower boom it was off to the races for adding the basswood addition. 
 
The mast was cut into a rectangular area where the connection area was and basswood pieces glued in (pic 2).  After shaping the basswood to insure a snug fit to the deck (quite a rake to the mast) I then measured the mast wedges and removed the wood to allow the wedge pieces to be introduced (pic 3).  After some initial shaping and refinement the mast was test fit and the effect verified (pic 4).  I think some additional thinning could be good but overall a good couple hours of work.  Now for the foremast.
 
For the eagle eyed people out there, the question must be waiting to be asked: "Why wasn't the boom shelf added above the new additions prior to these being glued in?"  Excellent question / point.  As soon as I figure out how I will get that done I will proudly state why I did it that way - LOL.
 
Stay Building My Friends - Mark
 
 

First up was the main cabin.  I had a couple previous attempts that never quite fit the bill.  Being the Captain (and not replicating a specific ship so naysayers handcuffed) I mulled it over and jumped in.  A couple of hours later and I stand back to a finished piece.  I opted for the sliding top with a panel that slides up and out to reveal the stairwell.  A couple of 1/48 friends have joined the build to insure everything works.  
 
All the deck furniture is still removable.  Next up is to get stuff nailed down.  - Mark

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

Seems to me this build has loitered far too long.  I keep finding more stuff to improve / modify / create and that equals time.  So many projects on the shelf.  I have decided to to keep things moving and not just slap it together, but push forward.  The primary purpose of this build is to work out rigging construction techniques, being a full representation of the Pride of Baltimore.
 
With the deck getting tidied up, the natural next steps where the yards, with the fore yard the biggest.  I had previously tried my hand at this yard but it was early in my career (lol).  The basswood middle section (installed in eight sections) definitely had problems at the mating with the walnut.  First up (pic1) I excised these sections and used four pieces of basswood (a LOT easier) which was then carved and sanded to the appropriate shape.  They stick out color wise a little, so I did both sides to the same dimensions:  make it symmetrical and you can say it is an artistic add.
 
For the metal hoop in the middle I opted for black paper (scrap booking).  The extension piece was boxwood for strength.  On the first try I eyeballed it and didn't use a correct circumference - it didn't fit around the foremast.  I redid it a second time.  Add some cleats at the end (after appropriately beveling the ends) and call it good.  Not entirely accurate but as stated earlier, a good compromise.
 
Pic 2 shows the yard on deck and Pic 3 gives the overall look at the width effect.  
 
Now for the remaining two yards followed by the booms.  This ship will not have studding sails, but will have a ring tail sail.
 
Mark

With the deck starting to come together I opted to tackle the Mast / Deck area next.  The kit envisioned a very pain affair (pic 1).  This would never do.  So after marking the angle of the deck on the mast, also the required height required for the lower boom it was off to the races for adding the basswood addition. 
 
The mast was cut into a rectangular area where the connection area was and basswood pieces glued in (pic 2).  After shaping the basswood to insure a snug fit to the deck (quite a rake to the mast) I then measured the mast wedges and removed the wood to allow the wedge pieces to be introduced (pic 3).  After some initial shaping and refinement the mast was test fit and the effect verified (pic 4).  I think some additional thinning could be good but overall a good couple hours of work.  Now for the foremast.
 
For the eagle eyed people out there, the question must be waiting to be asked: "Why wasn't the boom shelf added above the new additions prior to these being glued in?"  Excellent question / point.  As soon as I figure out how I will get that done I will proudly state why I did it that way - LOL.
 
Stay Building My Friends - Mark
 
 

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

Seems to me this build has loitered far too long.  I keep finding more stuff to improve / modify / create and that equals time.  So many projects on the shelf.  I have decided to to keep things moving and not just slap it together, but push forward.  The primary purpose of this build is to work out rigging construction techniques, being a full representation of the Pride of Baltimore.
 
With the deck getting tidied up, the natural next steps where the yards, with the fore yard the biggest.  I had previously tried my hand at this yard but it was early in my career (lol).  The basswood middle section (installed in eight sections) definitely had problems at the mating with the walnut.  First up (pic1) I excised these sections and used four pieces of basswood (a LOT easier) which was then carved and sanded to the appropriate shape.  They stick out color wise a little, so I did both sides to the same dimensions:  make it symmetrical and you can say it is an artistic add.
 
For the metal hoop in the middle I opted for black paper (scrap booking).  The extension piece was boxwood for strength.  On the first try I eyeballed it and didn't use a correct circumference - it didn't fit around the foremast.  I redid it a second time.  Add some cleats at the end (after appropriately beveling the ends) and call it good.  Not entirely accurate but as stated earlier, a good compromise.
 
Pic 2 shows the yard on deck and Pic 3 gives the overall look at the width effect.  
 
Now for the remaining two yards followed by the booms.  This ship will not have studding sails, but will have a ring tail sail.
 
Mark