kruginmi

Some more of the fiddly bits.  Every day I am trying to move the ball forward.  Today was the catheads and water casks.
 
For the catheads I used a dowel to add faux disks and then capped everything off with a piece of walnut and sanded the edges.  These still need to be sealed and clear coated.

For the casks I opted for the method used on the mast iron bands.  I cut and sanded off the provided rings (seen on upper cask) then used scrapbooking black paper cut in strips to re-install.  Pretty happy with the result, and less than an hour total.  Still need to clear coat.  The key for the rings was to apply painters tape at the edge of each ring prior to gluing (one at a time).  Once on correctly, the band was glued up and put on the cask butting against the tape.  Worked like a charm.

Stay Building My Friends,  -Mark

Methodically working through the chain plates.  I definitely got faster as time (and repetition) added up.  I ended up modifying my approach by going to a thinner wrap wire and wrapping ends around brass holder piece.  I also put back the window bars on the aft crew house.  Time for some clean up and to tidy up loose ends (like the cathead caps).  
Interviews went pretty well, but of course success means moving on to the next interview phase.  I don't know if I will need to move or not so am restricted to what I can do.  My hope is to finish enough that I can take (masts down) to the next location and start working rigging without any construction left if required.  However, working the Lady Anne is a great stress reliever for me.
 
-Mark

Nice attention to the little fiddly bits (details).  Looking great.

Good Luck Mark

Well, I got the first of four chain plates completed.  The camera sure brings out all the blemishes (lol) but all things considered I am happy with the result.  Everything lines up shroud wise so that makes it ship shape.  Already almost completed the other side.

Two job interviews tomorrow so hopeful this is positive ju-ju (hoping for a third to make it a trifecta).  -Mark

Thanks to my beautiful wife (and Chuck Passaro) I now have in my possession the blocks required for rigging this ship - part of my birthday celebration.
 

Additionally I have taken the plunge and sealed the outer hull (2 coats) then applied 3 coats of clear.  That really made it pleasing to the eye.

For a before and after comparison, the jib is sealed but not clear coated.  The bowsprit and hull are.

Now I have to do the same to the deck, which is cluttered. I will take it slow and may only do 1 coat of each.  The masts are now done and the yards, gaffs, booms, etc should be quick.  This is really coming together.  I like it.
 
Stay Building My Friends   -Mark

Well, I got the first of four chain plates completed.  The camera sure brings out all the blemishes (lol) but all things considered I am happy with the result.  Everything lines up shroud wise so that makes it ship shape.  Already almost completed the other side.

Two job interviews tomorrow so hopeful this is positive ju-ju (hoping for a third to make it a trifecta).  -Mark

Working to clean up the details around the hull, and next up was the chains.  The original kit specked out actual chains around the dead eyes (or was it rigging line).  Either way, I needed to do something different.  The task was to come up with something that could look good and didn't take too long.  I decided to go with brass.
 
I pulled out my graduated ring tools (found in the jewelry section of the local hobby store) and wrapped some wire close to the shape of the dead eye.  I also cut a strip of brass and rolled the end.

Then it was a matter of putting the three together and clipping the ends of the ring (both wires overlap under the strap).  Then some bending and a test fit on the hull.   FYI:  The right most deadeye shown below was accidentally crushed in my pliers.  It was easily popped out and replaced with a usable one.

I added a rail cap and cut in slots for accurately locating the straps as well as providing a nice clean finish.  Now to repeat over 20 more times.

- Mark

I wanted to add a couple comments having received this book as a birthday gift recently.  He has built a beautiful ship.  Being an owner of the TFFM series (well used for my Druid) this is a great addition for his extensive treatment of quarter galleries and expanded headwork.
 
As I plan out my next build (or two, or three) I thought a fire ship is a little off of the beaten path and perfect for the desired 1/48th scale I like.  For those people like myself I make the following fireship specific notes on this book:
- He clearly states in the preface that the included plans are specific to the hull.  There are no deck plans or furniture defined (firedeck or weatherdeck).  There is strictly a planking plan for the weather deck
- He defines the plan number required to procure these from the Royal Museum.  I was able to go the museum site and look at a reduced sample.  Having this available greatly aided reading and understanding the supplied text.  For building you will absolutely need to buy this addition.
- I do like the treatment of the fire port arrangements.  Pictures with accompanying graphics really help to drive home how it works.
- I wish more of the same was supplied for the fire troughs.  While there are oblique views (of his build on the Museum firedeck plan) some more graphics would have helped.  He talks at length about trestles (the method of raising the troughs off of the deck) but nothing to accompany to show his solution.  I would have loved to see some more exploded diagrams.
- He chose not to include any examples of the actual incendiaries (fire barrels, barras, and bavins / reeds).  He does reference a ship that does show this and I was able to view reduced images of it on line.  Once again, some drawn diagrams would have been extremely helpful to understand layout and conventional practice.  I am still 'assuming' that nothing was present between the fire troughs.
 
A very useful book in the TFFM line.  Also a very good resource for information about fire ships but just know that additional material will be required.
-Mark

I wanted to add a couple comments having received this book as a birthday gift recently.  He has built a beautiful ship.  Being an owner of the TFFM series (well used for my Druid) this is a great addition for his extensive treatment of quarter galleries and expanded headwork.
 
As I plan out my next build (or two, or three) I thought a fire ship is a little off of the beaten path and perfect for the desired 1/48th scale I like.  For those people like myself I make the following fireship specific notes on this book:
- He clearly states in the preface that the included plans are specific to the hull.  There are no deck plans or furniture defined (firedeck or weatherdeck).  There is strictly a planking plan for the weather deck
- He defines the plan number required to procure these from the Royal Museum.  I was able to go the museum site and look at a reduced sample.  Having this available greatly aided reading and understanding the supplied text.  For building you will absolutely need to buy this addition.
- I do like the treatment of the fire port arrangements.  Pictures with accompanying graphics really help to drive home how it works.
- I wish more of the same was supplied for the fire troughs.  While there are oblique views (of his build on the Museum firedeck plan) some more graphics would have helped.  He talks at length about trestles (the method of raising the troughs off of the deck) but nothing to accompany to show his solution.  I would have loved to see some more exploded diagrams.
- He chose not to include any examples of the actual incendiaries (fire barrels, barras, and bavins / reeds).  He does reference a ship that does show this and I was able to view reduced images of it on line.  Once again, some drawn diagrams would have been extremely helpful to understand layout and conventional practice.  I am still 'assuming' that nothing was present between the fire troughs.
 
A very useful book in the TFFM line.  Also a very good resource for information about fire ships but just know that additional material will be required.
-Mark

I wanted to add a couple comments having received this book as a birthday gift recently.  He has built a beautiful ship.  Being an owner of the TFFM series (well used for my Druid) this is a great addition for his extensive treatment of quarter galleries and expanded headwork.
 
As I plan out my next build (or two, or three) I thought a fire ship is a little off of the beaten path and perfect for the desired 1/48th scale I like.  For those people like myself I make the following fireship specific notes on this book:
- He clearly states in the preface that the included plans are specific to the hull.  There are no deck plans or furniture defined (firedeck or weatherdeck).  There is strictly a planking plan for the weather deck
- He defines the plan number required to procure these from the Royal Museum.  I was able to go the museum site and look at a reduced sample.  Having this available greatly aided reading and understanding the supplied text.  For building you will absolutely need to buy this addition.
- I do like the treatment of the fire port arrangements.  Pictures with accompanying graphics really help to drive home how it works.
- I wish more of the same was supplied for the fire troughs.  While there are oblique views (of his build on the Museum firedeck plan) some more graphics would have helped.  He talks at length about trestles (the method of raising the troughs off of the deck) but nothing to accompany to show his solution.  I would have loved to see some more exploded diagrams.
- He chose not to include any examples of the actual incendiaries (fire barrels, barras, and bavins / reeds).  He does reference a ship that does show this and I was able to view reduced images of it on line.  Once again, some drawn diagrams would have been extremely helpful to understand layout and conventional practice.  I am still 'assuming' that nothing was present between the fire troughs.
 
A very useful book in the TFFM line.  Also a very good resource for information about fire ships but just know that additional material will be required.
-Mark

I wanted to add a couple comments having received this book as a birthday gift recently.  He has built a beautiful ship.  Being an owner of the TFFM series (well used for my Druid) this is a great addition for his extensive treatment of quarter galleries and expanded headwork.
 
As I plan out my next build (or two, or three) I thought a fire ship is a little off of the beaten path and perfect for the desired 1/48th scale I like.  For those people like myself I make the following fireship specific notes on this book:
- He clearly states in the preface that the included plans are specific to the hull.  There are no deck plans or furniture defined (firedeck or weatherdeck).  There is strictly a planking plan for the weather deck
- He defines the plan number required to procure these from the Royal Museum.  I was able to go the museum site and look at a reduced sample.  Having this available greatly aided reading and understanding the supplied text.  For building you will absolutely need to buy this addition.
- I do like the treatment of the fire port arrangements.  Pictures with accompanying graphics really help to drive home how it works.
- I wish more of the same was supplied for the fire troughs.  While there are oblique views (of his build on the Museum firedeck plan) some more graphics would have helped.  He talks at length about trestles (the method of raising the troughs off of the deck) but nothing to accompany to show his solution.  I would have loved to see some more exploded diagrams.
- He chose not to include any examples of the actual incendiaries (fire barrels, barras, and bavins / reeds).  He does reference a ship that does show this and I was able to view reduced images of it on line.  Once again, some drawn diagrams would have been extremely helpful to understand layout and conventional practice.  I am still 'assuming' that nothing was present between the fire troughs.
 
A very useful book in the TFFM line.  Also a very good resource for information about fire ships but just know that additional material will be required.
-Mark

Hi Mark
 
Keep up the good work. It will be worth it when you have her completed and sitting up all beautiful. It took me years to finish my Jenny Belle (AL Harvey) after I abandoned the kit after completion of the hull. In the end I think it all worked out quite good.
Cheers
Blackie

Hi Mark .. Looking Great !.. I too am going with Tan rigging (though a bit darker in my case) instead of Black .. I also understand the 'taking time to get things looking worthy of that time' approach and I am not going by the 'out of the box' kit either.. which takes even more time.. Holy Moly it's a wonder we have gotten so far as we have 
 
Cheers
 
Eamonn

Hey, Nils - still productive as always I see!
 
Working this afternoon on placing the chains (or in my case the brass strips) for the deadeyes.  I have decided to opt for tan shroud lines with black ratlines.  Should look pretty nice.  The thread shown is the line to be used.  Once figured out, I can start manufacturing the brass and affix to hull.  

Unfortunately I cannot start to put the shrouds up until I figure out my job situation.  If I have to move, it would definitely be safer to have these masts lying flat.
 
-Mark

Thanks everyone, really appreciate you stopping by.
 
This build has been hard for me.  Originally an out of box simple build which snowballed.  I keep trying to walk the knife's edge of keeping it 'simple' yet being something I believe worthy of the time.  Hull OK, entire deck structure scrapped and scratched, entire rigging plan scrapped and scoped to Pride of Baltimore actual rig.  I keep going down rabbit holes.  Trying for progress in a worthwhile time, thus the blocks from Chuck.
 
I have never done a rigging job as complex as this, a definite learning curve.  I am hoping any further issues should be minimal (other than those sails......).
 
Mark

Hi Mark,
 
lovely model, very nice fitting out, masting, yards....., the fastening of the cannons per dowel is a good idea 
 
Nils
 

Thanks to my beautiful wife (and Chuck Passaro) I now have in my possession the blocks required for rigging this ship - part of my birthday celebration.
 

Additionally I have taken the plunge and sealed the outer hull (2 coats) then applied 3 coats of clear.  That really made it pleasing to the eye.

For a before and after comparison, the jib is sealed but not clear coated.  The bowsprit and hull are.

Now I have to do the same to the deck, which is cluttered. I will take it slow and may only do 1 coat of each.  The masts are now done and the yards, gaffs, booms, etc should be quick.  This is really coming together.  I like it.
 
Stay Building My Friends   -Mark

Thanks everyone, really appreciate you stopping by.
 
This build has been hard for me.  Originally an out of box simple build which snowballed.  I keep trying to walk the knife's edge of keeping it 'simple' yet being something I believe worthy of the time.  Hull OK, entire deck structure scrapped and scratched, entire rigging plan scrapped and scoped to Pride of Baltimore actual rig.  I keep going down rabbit holes.  Trying for progress in a worthwhile time, thus the blocks from Chuck.
 
I have never done a rigging job as complex as this, a definite learning curve.  I am hoping any further issues should be minimal (other than those sails......).
 
Mark

Today to keep things moving I decided to tackle the main boom.  Lots of little details to be worked out - the hull is different from the Pride of Baltimore rigging plans I am using so I need to adjust, like extending the boom length.Again happy with the result and in only a few hours.
 

Lots of tiddly bits, made from the scrapwood pile.  Boxwood for the jaws, and basswood for everything else.  Metal straps are again scrapbooking black paper.  Even needed cleats on the underside.  I am reminded why I like 1/48th scale, I couldn't have done this any smaller.

Still need the boom rest added to the main mast and the ring tail boom extension but that will be for another day.

Cheers!  Mark

With the deck starting to come together I opted to tackle the Mast / Deck area next.  The kit envisioned a very pain affair (pic 1).  This would never do.  So after marking the angle of the deck on the mast, also the required height required for the lower boom it was off to the races for adding the basswood addition. 
 
The mast was cut into a rectangular area where the connection area was and basswood pieces glued in (pic 2).  After shaping the basswood to insure a snug fit to the deck (quite a rake to the mast) I then measured the mast wedges and removed the wood to allow the wedge pieces to be introduced (pic 3).  After some initial shaping and refinement the mast was test fit and the effect verified (pic 4).  I think some additional thinning could be good but overall a good couple hours of work.  Now for the foremast.
 
For the eagle eyed people out there, the question must be waiting to be asked: "Why wasn't the boom shelf added above the new additions prior to these being glued in?"  Excellent question / point.  As soon as I figure out how I will get that done I will proudly state why I did it that way - LOL.
 
Stay Building My Friends - Mark
 
 

First up was the main cabin.  I had a couple previous attempts that never quite fit the bill.  Being the Captain (and not replicating a specific ship so naysayers handcuffed) I mulled it over and jumped in.  A couple of hours later and I stand back to a finished piece.  I opted for the sliding top with a panel that slides up and out to reveal the stairwell.  A couple of 1/48 friends have joined the build to insure everything works.  
 
All the deck furniture is still removable.  Next up is to get stuff nailed down.  - Mark

Mark,
 
Yes with work of this high quality Chuck's blocks ARE indeed "required".
 
Cheers, 

Thanks to my beautiful wife (and Chuck Passaro) I now have in my possession the blocks required for rigging this ship - part of my birthday celebration.
 

Additionally I have taken the plunge and sealed the outer hull (2 coats) then applied 3 coats of clear.  That really made it pleasing to the eye.

For a before and after comparison, the jib is sealed but not clear coated.  The bowsprit and hull are.

Now I have to do the same to the deck, which is cluttered. I will take it slow and may only do 1 coat of each.  The masts are now done and the yards, gaffs, booms, etc should be quick.  This is really coming together.  I like it.
 
Stay Building My Friends   -Mark

Thanks to my beautiful wife (and Chuck Passaro) I now have in my possession the blocks required for rigging this ship - part of my birthday celebration.
 

Additionally I have taken the plunge and sealed the outer hull (2 coats) then applied 3 coats of clear.  That really made it pleasing to the eye.

For a before and after comparison, the jib is sealed but not clear coated.  The bowsprit and hull are.

Now I have to do the same to the deck, which is cluttered. I will take it slow and may only do 1 coat of each.  The masts are now done and the yards, gaffs, booms, etc should be quick.  This is really coming together.  I like it.
 
Stay Building My Friends   -Mark