kruginmi

I'm a little worried about the cumulative stresses too. Initially I though maybe there would be lead blocks on the deck under the rail so the lines wold lead down to those blocks then up to the pins and the force would be pulling down on the rail not lifting it off. But thats a lot of blocks. A lot of the lines you list don't cause too much alarm but ANY hailyard or the Mainsail and Topsail Clewlines ARE going to have heavy loads on them and there is no way, in my opinion, they could be made on that rail, even run through sheaves in the stanchions. I would put the Main Clews on the Jeer Bits if it was me.

The stanchions to this rail are bolted to the deck beam beneath: making it more than strong enough to cope. Belaying pins on that rail would only be introduced around 1800ish or later. Usually there were single sheaves in the stanchions below the lower rail, just above the deck.

<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
 
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
 
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):

 
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1.  Mainsail clewlines
2.  Mainsail buntlines
3.  Mainsail Leechlines
4.  Topsail Clewlines
5.  Topsail reef tackles
6.  Topgallant sheets
 
The question is how?  Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one.  Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses.  Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that.  At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question.  With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
 
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1.  Mainstaysail halyard
2.  Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3.  Fore Topgallant Brace
 
Any opinions?
Mark

<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
 
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
 
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):

 
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1.  Mainsail clewlines
2.  Mainsail buntlines
3.  Mainsail Leechlines
4.  Topsail Clewlines
5.  Topsail reef tackles
6.  Topgallant sheets
 
The question is how?  Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one.  Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses.  Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that.  At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question.  With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
 
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1.  Mainstaysail halyard
2.  Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3.  Fore Topgallant Brace
 
Any opinions?
Mark

Remember, 10 of those lines contribute no stress to the rail at all except when actually furling or reefing the sail.

Not sure how much stress those lines would have on them.  The clew, bunt, leech and reef lines would not be under strain when belayed.  The others would though.  But even these are for relatively light sails except for the mizzen tops'l bowlines.

<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
 
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
 
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):

 
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1.  Mainsail clewlines
2.  Mainsail buntlines
3.  Mainsail Leechlines
4.  Topsail Clewlines
5.  Topsail reef tackles
6.  Topgallant sheets
 
The question is how?  Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one.  Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses.  Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that.  At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question.  With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
 
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1.  Mainstaysail halyard
2.  Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3.  Fore Topgallant Brace
 
Any opinions?
Mark

Thanks for all the looks and likes!
 
This evening success breads motivation.  So....I continued on with the population of the main yard arm:  cleats and boom irons.
 

 
I had thought long and hard about the stunsl booms.  Carrying on the theme of the main mast I decided to try using black paper and mini-dowels for the irons holding them onto the main yard.  I don't think they turned out too bad.  Taking a step back I am definitely ready for that topmast yard.
 

 
Mark

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
 
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost.  The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out.  The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
 

 
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile.  I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go.  My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise.  The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise.  The final ones will be octagonal.  
 
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started.  The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in.  I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
 
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
 

 
Mark

Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step.  A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts.  I first templated it out with an index card before cutting.  Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right.  I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
 

 
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs.  At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now.  I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
 

 
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar.  This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic.  I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view.  It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
 
Mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top.  Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
 

 
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier.  This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting.  next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go.  I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be.  My proportional divider was used a LOT.  Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
 

 
Then a lot of cutting.  I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect.  I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
 
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good.  Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
 

 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
 
So what are cheek blocks?
 

 
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast.  I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
 
mark

Paintint the dragonhead in gold, for more depth it need some black wash.
 

 
Studying the pattern.
An impression:
 

 
.
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
This is what is left of the interior
 

 
Finished the armor, I am satisfied with the result so far.
 

 

That being said, here is the state of the model as she now stands.

Thank you Toni.  I have been having fun and learning a lot.  I guess I'm lucky because I don't have the instructions only an addendum to the instructions.  I gave up even looking at the addendum some time ago.  My prime reference source has been this great site.
 
 Walter

and here the second lot of the final pictures......
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

Build log part 94
 
 
COMPLETE
 
 
This post rounds up and completes the 29 months build duration of my HMS Pegasus in scale 1:64.
 
After putting on rudder chains, all bow-lines with their bridles to the squaresails, and appropriate rigging, the crew and some naval infantry men shipped in today to take over an interception and patrol mission in the northern Atlantic. Perhaps there will still be anchor buoys fitted to the lower fore-shrouds....
 
Its been much fun to do this build and especially it`s extensive rigging with all those tiny blocks, but now she is a nice sight with all those sails and pushing her wake, riding on starboard bow with braced sails. Putting on nearly all lines the actual ship had, it was a good lesson in rigging. Next  week I`ll put the final pictures in my Gallery.
Now its time to do the glass display case for dust protection.
 
Due to the modification of the 12 sheet Amati plan set, and building it from scratch (no kit) there are :  the large open port side, the half planked decks, the interior decks and the visible inside fitting out. The POB scratch built ship`s boat is an extra, and the access to the forecastle is by a seperate stair / ladderway .
 
Many thanks to all that visited this build along the ride from beginning on, and so many thanks to all comments and appreciations, and "likes", it has been a pleasure and was very encouraging for me
 
here are the first 10 of appr. 20 final pics......
 
Enjoy the pictures
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

This week my focus was on finishing the yards.  I built and installed 2 more yards.
 
  Walter
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

First off thank you for the likes.  Please feel free to ask questions of offer advice.
 
11/4-6/15 – Started sanding off burn marks on bulkheads and tapered bow bulkheads to etched lines.  Completed through bulkhead 17 with only one broken part, glued for overnight repair. 
 

 
I think I will do shallow 3rd deck cut-outs that do not interfere with the pre-notched longitudinal stiffeners that are new to the reworked kit.  Maybe ½” to 3/4" deep to show some depth through the 2nd deck gratings and hints of the gangways/stairs.
 

 
I used a picture from the instructions for the USF Confederacy that showed the lines between the wood segments used to fabricate the bow, keel and stern pieces to estimate location and then marked those on the Essex parts using a fine pencil.  It helped me understand how these were made on the real ship and may show up though the paint, we will see.  I drilled and pined the parts as suggested after bonding them over the Rabbet strip.
 

 
I cut the bearding line before bonding the BH’s using a small chisel and sandpaper.

Thanks 
 
Jumped over peeked at your builds I bow to the master.
 
John

Hi everyone

Thanks for all of your comments and Likes.

The whole idea of trying to think how to do the superstructure with removable decks was really doing my head in. To try and figure things out better, I decided to do a very rough mock-up of the cabin structure out of balsa wood. Please bear in-mind that it's a really, really rough approximation of what it'll look like, but nonetheless, it should be a great aid for me. Here're the photos.

All the best!

Patrick

...well....my Dad did make a fully functioning flushing toilet for his RC cabin cruiser model many years ago.  The water pressure was fed by the movement of water through an inlet pipe underwater.  It was pretty nifty.
 
I guess I can only try....