kruginmi

Now to put the bevels in.
 
First step is to add spacers between the frames where the main wales will be.  So....I need to know the height for each frame.  I used a light box to copy the plans for the cross section to a blank piece of paper.  I then cut the plans so the floor was equivalent to the base jig.  This was then glued to a form that allows measurements to be taken off.
 
.
 
I then was able to take measurements of the wale upper and lower limits and transfer to the model.  Then spacer pieces were added.  THEN the sanding starts.  I was just focusing on one of the external sides initially.  When the full outside is done I will attach the wales for complete stiffness before attempting the inside.
 
I did find the frames had some 'issues' conforming to a pre-bevel ready install.  I had flashbacks to the original Druid when I had problems in the same area.  I had though using the top spreaders would solve how this happened but I think there are a couple of issues with the drawn frames on the plans.  I actually cut one of the lower legs and re-glued in a slightly different orientation to make things match up better.  Some other frames had their slots enlarged to allow more movement prior to gluing.  You go slow and check your progress often and it was slowly brought into alignment.
 

 
I had a plank at the ready and checked how it laid on the hull often.  As a note the first and last frame are still not glued in.  I wanted to see exactly how the bevels affected them prior to adding the futtuck join pieces to insure they visually looked right.
 

 
For a current look and comparison, the following shot shows a beveled hull on the right and untouched on the left - big difference.
 

 
All this work will be hidden (except the keel) and it might thought to be overkill but I wanted this build to be equivalent to the original build.  
 
As an aside, I include a current view of my full HMS Druid at the Lowell Arts Building (pic from them).  Not looking too shabby.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for all the likes.
 
Big day in the Krug household - time to glue the frames to the jig.  I did not glue the outermost frames, saving those for further refinements off board.  The keel is still removable.
 
I glued the outermost remaining ones to provide a firm grounding on opposite ends to keep everything in line (the keel riser notwithstanding).  I then worked inward gluing one at a time.  The frame was pushed below it's required level, the keel re-attached to the existing frames, then the new frame pulled up into position in its slot.  Wait a few minutes and on to the next one.
 

 
As can be seen, the keel was cut to the correct depth and the false keel also cut.  No longer any need for the keel risers.
 

 
Next is to add some frame spacers at the wale location to really lock everything in before sanding, and detail the outer frames.
 
Interesting to note with this building style the keel rabbet is not finished at this time.  In fact I used the frames as installed to determine exactly where the rabbet should be.
 
Mark

Just continuing to motor right along.
 
The sled on my Byrnes saw almost made this too easy (take'em when you can get'em).  I rubber cemented the required keel slot locations onto a piece of basswood (will cut to correct depth later on).
 

 
After it was dry I adjusted my Byrnes saw to the correct depth and using the sled cut all slots perfectly out in less than 5 minutes (test fitting a frame for each slot as I went).  
 

 
I also cut a slot on the keel height holders - which was a mistake, but no harm done.  The keel holder was the proper height of the keel BEFORE cutting.  With out the slots, the frames had actually been adjusted a tad too low in the previous pics taken.  Amazing how things like this pop up!  Glad I caught it now.
 
Then everything was put together with the frames into the slots (the picture has the incorrect slot in the keel holders).  Amazing how rigid and strong the structure became.
 

 
I now need to fix that keel holder and I will be good for starting to drill some trunnel holes as well as cut my purpleheart false keel.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

With some free time on this New Year's Day (everyone sleeping in) I dashed down to the shipyard.  Things seemed to go pretty fast at this stage.
 
I removed all paper from the frames and added the missing support wood.  I then methodically worked the positioning of the ten frames onto the jig.  Lots of back and forth to the scroll saw but well worth it.
 

 
Still some cleanup to do on each frame, primarily around the keel slot before I glue them into the base slots.  Then it will be on to the real keel.
 
I know the hull is centered on the jig and correctly positioned.  Any measurement on either side will match.  The base is parallel to the keel.  This should limit the 'surprises' in the future.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

With the frames roughed out it was time to think about how to make the Hahn style jig.  I had success previously with the full hull but had lessons learned for my building style (read accuracy and capability).  So I came up with the following:
 

 
First off, I did copy the base pattern off of the plans but did not go and cut it all out at once.  Lots of small errors compound to very noticeable ones.  So after cutting out the center portion I picked the first frame, centered it over its location then cut out notches for it to fit snugly.  I also fit out pillars that insured the keel was at the exact height and centered over the jig.  So the frame is inserted into its groove, the pseudo keel is put into position and then the frame is pulled up into position perpendicular to the board. 
 
For the next frame I inserted a 1/8" board spacer to define the start point of the frame, then measured as above off of this starting position.  Very close to the plans but tweeked here and there.  So everything is based off of the first frame.
 
Nothing is glued yet (still have to scrape off the remaining templates).  After everything is verified, the frames will be glued and then the real keel will be fashioned.
 
Also need to detail out the face frames of the first and last exposed frames.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

With the holidays (and the family flu) in the rear view mirror I finally spent some time in the shipyard.  I finally got all ten frames rough cut out.  No bevels yet (after they are installed in the jig) and the face frame sides will have futtock join pieces with trunnels added.
 

 
You can see one of my Christmas gifts from the kids - 1:48 scale plastic figures.  They are Air Force ground crew figures, so some modifications will need to be made, however I really liked the look of them on the full Druid.  Nice to see the figures fit so well.  They will be all over the cross section: climbing, cleaning, firing - you name it.
 
Next up is to cut out the base jig to hold these frames inverted (the Hahn method).  Hope to pick up the wood tomorrow.  You can also see the other big gift from the family:  Volume IV of the Swan books - AWESOME!
 

 
BTW:  I picked up this sanding belt cleaner bar and it works fantastic.  I would highly recommend.  It basically brings the sandpaper back to like new.  The top of the spindle sander hasn't been treated, below it has.  Simply push it against the running drum whenever it is starting to gum up.
 

 
In other news:  The full Druid has been invited to another Art Showing for January in Lowell, Michigan.  This will be followed by a request for a business to host for another month.  Tremendous positive feedback.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

In the Army there is a saying that no plan survives first contact, and it looks like it applies to ship modeling also.  After butchering a frame and a half I took a step back and reevaluated how I was making the frames.  After punching out three successful frames I have found what works for me.
 
I still used the rough cut out futtock pieces (trying to get a 1/16" buffer around).  I then proceeded to exact cut the join edges without refining the other edges.
 

 
The layers were then independently glued together over an uncut picture of the frame.  I omitted the upper pieces on the top layer to allow both layers to be aligned.
 
Then using a faux keel for center alignment and matching the upper parts of the frames the frames were glued together.
 

 
For the final steps after drying I used the spindle sander to finalize the frame outline and removed the last of the paper templates.
 

 
This is what worked for me.  Now just to get the rest of these frames finished off (if I can keep the rest of the family from getting the flu).
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Innovative approach to building the deck, I like the result.  I am putting that idea into my idea toolchest!
 
Small scales intimidate me but you are making it look easy.  Thanks for sharing,
 
Mark

Something I had meant to say with the last photo (an admission):  Some may notice the limber strake looks differently spaced with regards to the keelson than previously.  This is what happens when you just plow ahead and forget the basics.
 
When ready to apply I went to the previous prototype and liked the look so glued in at the same distance.  I had conveniently put aside in my brain that the limberstrake should still straddle the futtock join.  Of course this join had moved in the new build.  The next day this suddenly struck me and I wondered if I should do anything about it.  The join was on the aft side of each frame so once this was totally built and mounted 99.9% of people would have no idea of the issue.  But I would.
 
Luckily this was the perfect time for access so a quick deconstruction later I was able to re-glue in the correct position.  I probably spent more time sweating over the decision to re-do it than the time to actually make the change.  Soon as I started planking the outside this wouldn't have been the case.
 
So, lesson learned, never take for granted the next step of construction.  Always think it through, especially the why it is there.
 
mark

Something I had meant to say with the last photo (an admission):  Some may notice the limber strake looks differently spaced with regards to the keelson than previously.  This is what happens when you just plow ahead and forget the basics.
 
When ready to apply I went to the previous prototype and liked the look so glued in at the same distance.  I had conveniently put aside in my brain that the limberstrake should still straddle the futtock join.  Of course this join had moved in the new build.  The next day this suddenly struck me and I wondered if I should do anything about it.  The join was on the aft side of each frame so once this was totally built and mounted 99.9% of people would have no idea of the issue.  But I would.
 
Luckily this was the perfect time for access so a quick deconstruction later I was able to re-glue in the correct position.  I probably spent more time sweating over the decision to re-do it than the time to actually make the change.  Soon as I started planking the outside this wouldn't have been the case.
 
So, lesson learned, never take for granted the next step of construction.  Always think it through, especially the why it is there.
 
mark

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
 

 
Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson).  These pieces are not glued.  The one piece missing is where the pump is located.
 
Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile.
 
Mark
 

Patrick, thanks for stopping by!
 
I was pretty surprised with this cross section.  Having completed the full model in the Admiralty Style I had originally thought this was just going to be just a small scale repetition of that build.  I never knew what I didn't know.  The inter-relationship between all the components has really been brought home.  You can read as much as you want, but until you build......
 
Everything is there for a purpose, usually specifically tied to other parts of the build (like the thickstuff).  This build has been an excellent learning experience for me prior to undertaking a fully planked one (internally and externally).  I am looking forward to raising the mast one day in the future.
 
I like your simplicity comment.  Once you put in all the work and you do achieve that simplicity in look that is a key indicator that it was done right.  Hopefully this will continue in the future (without any more REDOs!).
 
Mark

Innovative approach to building the deck, I like the result.  I am putting that idea into my idea toolchest!
 
Small scales intimidate me but you are making it look easy.  Thanks for sharing,
 
Mark

Hi Mark
 
I definitely agree with your comment about "everything having a purpose", because I was struck by the very same thing when I built my models of Bounty, Victory, Lennox and Pandora.  Everything in each of those ships served a precise purpose and to think that these were built in the days before computers, machines, etc.  The ingenuity and skill of those shipwrights was truly astonishing, particularly given the technology of the day..
 
All the best
 
Patrick.

Innovative approach to building the deck, I like the result.  I am putting that idea into my idea toolchest!
 
Small scales intimidate me but you are making it look easy.  Thanks for sharing,
 
Mark

Innovative approach to building the deck, I like the result.  I am putting that idea into my idea toolchest!
 
Small scales intimidate me but you are making it look easy.  Thanks for sharing,
 
Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Mark, Thank you for the encouraging words.  
  Walter

Patrick, thanks for stopping by!
 
I was pretty surprised with this cross section.  Having completed the full model in the Admiralty Style I had originally thought this was just going to be just a small scale repetition of that build.  I never knew what I didn't know.  The inter-relationship between all the components has really been brought home.  You can read as much as you want, but until you build......
 
Everything is there for a purpose, usually specifically tied to other parts of the build (like the thickstuff).  This build has been an excellent learning experience for me prior to undertaking a fully planked one (internally and externally).  I am looking forward to raising the mast one day in the future.
 
I like your simplicity comment.  Once you put in all the work and you do achieve that simplicity in look that is a key indicator that it was done right.  Hopefully this will continue in the future (without any more REDOs!).
 
Mark

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
 

 
Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson).  These pieces are not glued.  The one piece missing is where the pump is located.
 
Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile.
 
Mark
 

Thanks for all the likes and words of confidence.  This is just something I have to learn to live with, probably won't be my last!
 
Focused on getting the thickstuff in the hold.  With all the work to define where the futtock joins are (and thus the thickstuff placement) I am a lot happier with the result than the first go round.
 


 
Next up is to use add the adjoining layer (3/32" basswood) next to the thick stuff (1/8" basswood).  Regular planks will be with 1/16" basswood.  I should have the lower hold buttoned up within two weeks.  The exterior hull will also be totally planked.
 
Sure feels good when you cut something for one side of the build and it also fits perfectly on the opposite side.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Completing a first planked hull is a MAJOR milestone that most people that start (especially without the help of this website) never get to.  I look at my first hull with all its issues but I was never so proud of the accomplishment.  You are doing great, keep it up.  Everyday your technique is getting better.
 
mark

Patrick, thanks for stopping by!
 
I was pretty surprised with this cross section.  Having completed the full model in the Admiralty Style I had originally thought this was just going to be just a small scale repetition of that build.  I never knew what I didn't know.  The inter-relationship between all the components has really been brought home.  You can read as much as you want, but until you build......
 
Everything is there for a purpose, usually specifically tied to other parts of the build (like the thickstuff).  This build has been an excellent learning experience for me prior to undertaking a fully planked one (internally and externally).  I am looking forward to raising the mast one day in the future.
 
I like your simplicity comment.  Once you put in all the work and you do achieve that simplicity in look that is a key indicator that it was done right.  Hopefully this will continue in the future (without any more REDOs!).
 
Mark

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
 

 
Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson).  These pieces are not glued.  The one piece missing is where the pump is located.
 
Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile.
 
Mark
 

Thanks for all the likes and words of confidence.  This is just something I have to learn to live with, probably won't be my last!
 
Focused on getting the thickstuff in the hold.  With all the work to define where the futtock joins are (and thus the thickstuff placement) I am a lot happier with the result than the first go round.
 


 
Next up is to use add the adjoining layer (3/32" basswood) next to the thick stuff (1/8" basswood).  Regular planks will be with 1/16" basswood.  I should have the lower hold buttoned up within two weeks.  The exterior hull will also be totally planked.
 
Sure feels good when you cut something for one side of the build and it also fits perfectly on the opposite side.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark