kruginmi

RIght now I have no plans to.  This hull has been around for 8 years (assembled) and been very stable so far.  Also, there are already regions I am unable to adequately reach.  With basswood really need some sort of sealer.
 
This whole ship has been a learning experience for me.  Most items (where possible) are doweled or positioned with clamps as opposed to glue to allow some movement.  I attach an internal pic of the orlop deck which has survived with no ill effects so far.
 
Loving the hobby,
Mark
 

Greetings (again).  Returning to MSW after a bit of off time (eg I just completed my 5th sprint triathlon).  I have not been idle and have lately been kicking it into high gear with my version of the HMS Druid.  Believe it or not, started in 2003 (two kids and a couple of homes ago) but looking to finish in the first quarter, 2014.  I have loved every minute I have spent - probably a little over 300 hours so far.
 
I just finished with the bow assembly (sans the eking rail which will wait until the cathead is affixed).  Previous to that was the stern caprail.  I believe I am on the downhill of this build.  Next up is finishing the rudder metal work and then working up from the berthdeck finishing all the details.
 
Additionally I have made progress on my Lady Anne and finished the DaVinci wing (currently on display at the Michigan Aviation Academy), but that will be a subject for another day.
 
Mark

I think these links are among the most time consuming and frustrating things I have done on this build.  I have spent a lot of time trying to get them right and have probably thrown out enough wire to do 2-3 ships.  Never anticipated this at all.  After a lot of false starts and changes in techniques I finally have something that I am okay with:
 

 
Thirty eight (38) total pieces involved for this.  I have only kept track since about a third of the way in the build but I have to be over 2500 total pieces so far.....
 
Now to just do the same thing for the other five!  I am hopeful I can cut the time required for each to just a couple of hours per.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Mark:
That looks good. The links are very well shaped and I do not see any joints. The hard work paid off.
 
Russ

You did a great job.  When I had to make links I would use a drill bit the right diameter.  That way my oversized fingers would not get pinched.
David B

I think these links are among the most time consuming and frustrating things I have done on this build.  I have spent a lot of time trying to get them right and have probably thrown out enough wire to do 2-3 ships.  Never anticipated this at all.  After a lot of false starts and changes in techniques I finally have something that I am okay with:
 

 
Thirty eight (38) total pieces involved for this.  I have only kept track since about a third of the way in the build but I have to be over 2500 total pieces so far.....
 
Now to just do the same thing for the other five!  I am hopeful I can cut the time required for each to just a couple of hours per.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

A quick update:
 
Put in the Eking rails (from hawse holes to cathead).  The question was to bend the rail to fit the hull or carve it out of a larger block.  With all the angles and variations present (to include the thickness of the eking rail) I opted to carve it out.
 

 
To give the hull a more finished look prior to hitting the wheel and channels I tried a little scroll work carving on the rail transitions:
 

 
Definitely found that some times the carving goes fast and successful, and other times slow, painful and scrap.
 
Trying to put in an hour or so a day.
 
Mark

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Starting the anchor rigging (beginning with the port side, cable stowed in hold)
The starboard side anchor cable shall be lashed to the messenger with help of the gundeck capstan
 
 
 
 

port side anchor cable (2mm ) stowed in tied Loops in cargo hold on top of cargo Barrels
(sorry for a Little unsharp pic)
 

secured on front bit and resting on horizontal beam with Messenger lead rollers, so that there is no rubbing against the Manager boards, and cable leaves hull through the inner bow hawse hole
 

coming out through opening (outcut) in main-hold deck grating
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Nils

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Time to forge ahead and work on those channels!
 
First task was to generate the deadeyes.  I cut some square stock to the appropriate size and chocked it into the lathe.  After rounding it wasn't too much difficulty to get the deadeyes roughed in.  A lesson learned was to keep the length of the wood stock to around 3.5 inches.  This provided enough rigidity to make the lathing pretty straight forward.  Anymore and the flex just started to get too much, especially after a couple of inches of deadeyes were cut.
 

 
With the string of deadeyes it was straight forward to add the three eyes and THEN cut off the deadeye.  Much more handling power so greater accuracy.  With the deadeye figured out, it was a trial and error to define the wire lengths (20 gauge brass) necessary for the three loop lengths.  The intent is to silver solder the loops closed.
 

 
Then to check everything I put the channel in place (still missing the cap strip), made a template of the right angles to put the links on and affixed the prototype.  The bottom flat brass link is still missing.
 

 
Everything seems to check out and now I just need to make 29 of these for each side (2 different sizes for the deadeyes).  With the cap strip on the deadeye is angled more correctly.  If necessary I can add a bend to insure this happens.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

No, just trying to achieve the effect you already have.  Some silver solder to make the links, some brass sheet for the cap plates then on to the lathe for the deadeyes.  -mark

Great information Nils - I am starting on my chain plates so this is very timely.  I will not have my upper rigging so I have a little less difficulty (angles just have to look good and will not be tested by the actual shrouds!).
 
I am looking to use 20 gauge wire and am hoping that will do the trick.
 
Looking great as usual!
Mark

Build log part 39
 
 
 

chain plates (here in the Moment only those for 5mm deadeyes) on closed, planked starboard side
 

port side foremast chainplates, as far as the planking is in place the complete chain is fitted, in the area of the cutaway portions, I use one of the stringers together with length-dressed chain plates and leaving away the the lower cap plate. The boltings are placed at half width of the stringer
 

Mainmast chainplates, I trust it is a solution that does not look too much out of the way after all
 

thealignment angles can be set just like on the planked starboard side
 
 
 
Nils

Okay I think im with you guys on the flag... I will prefer it without.. Enough said..  Part of me wanted to use it because i bought it...
 
 
 
Well o well, i cant believe it! no more blocks, rings eyebolts etc etc..   Not that i havn't enjoyed it..  At first i was like what is all this stuff ruining my build, it all just looked a bit funny. Until ALL the rigging was in place, now i think it really makes the model..
 
I might have to adjust boom up just a bit and do all the rope coils on belaying points and cleats and i am almost done...
 
I had this wild idea that things would kind of get easier towards the end! No sir.. It's difficult right to the end o frigging, oh i mean rigging
I'm sure these last coils will test me, it just gets so scary and tricky having to work amongst tight spaces and im glad i dont have huge wide hands..
 
I also kept feeling i was close to the end of the build and it keeps going! Yes It still is..  For those who have started more than one ship without finishing their first, I think you really should follow one through first to know all the aspects.  The build changes dramatically throughout... There are stages that feel and are totally different to each other. Towards the end it becomes a whole new game with the rigging and the risks of damaging your previous many months or years of work is very. You dont need amny tools towards to the end but lots of patience...   At times i bumped rigging lines and scared myself, the strength of the whole thing has surprised me at times.. 
 
Anyway, I'm on a bit of a high and the pictures are not doing it justice, I really need to get outside and do some natural light shots. perhaps down the creek...  Will take some detailed shots soon...    Ollie
 
 
 
 

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Moving right along.....
 
Rail transitions pieces complete, tree pumps complete, rudder chains complete, capstan rigging complete.  Misc Cleanup operations in-process.
 
Once the pumps were gel coated I used the ship as a drying rack.  Not your typical look.  Once the pumps were in place the gun deck is complete for this build.  Lots of stuff going on at the quarterdeck line:
 

 
I decided to attach the rudder chains (since I was blackening the pump metal, might as well blacken the chain).  The attachment points were equivalent to the cannon tackle on the gun deck.  The ships lettering goes right above the chains.
 

 
I can finally sit back and see how close I am:
 

 
The channels, ships wheel, ship name lettering and figurehead are all that remain (end of the month?)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark