kruginmi

Thanks for all the kudos, looks and likes!
 
Grant - for most of the ideas you have picked up here, I can probably refer to other builds where I snagged them.
 
Tim - I don't know if I am as good as lucky!
 
As i thought about the forecastle it became obvious two things had to happen first.  I had to pry off the top level outer planks since they were sanded down slightly more than they should have been and replace them.  Not too hard and easy to do.
 
The second was the railing had to be done now (or a factor of 10 in hardness later).  This was a half height railing (would not conform to OSHA standards) of five posts.  For strength I opted to mortise them into the deck beam.  After all the planking is attached I will attach a cap piece running the length of the beam to cover the end of the planks as well as most of the generated mortises.
 
First order of business was to generate five posts that had some carving done to their tops as well as a plank shelf running the length of the railing.  I cut a notch around the post for the 1/32inch shelf to slide into for support and maintain constant height.  To do this I always like a jig:
 

 
Once the post work was done I cut the post to half width where it connected with the deck beam using my Byrnes saw.  I always use a sled that I have built if I am not ripping down lengths of wood.  The whole sled moves with everything else anchored.  Very solid, very safe and easy to make several accurate cuts on different pieces of wood.  A micro-chisel was used to smooth down any bumps left by the saw blade.
 

 
I then attached one post at a time, starting from the center.  I also doweled the mortised section into the deck beam.
 

 
After each post was affixed I used a piece of oversized wood for the shelf and cut the slot for the post into the shelf.  This allowed one slot to be focused on at a time which was easy as opposed to five at the same time.
 

 
Working outwards it didn't take too long to get all the posts in and the shelf fitting snug.  Then I simply cut the shelf down to size lengthwise and width wise.  An important item to remember was that the deck planks have not been attached (so that size needs to be accounted for).  When I put the railing on the ship I put down a couple of pieces of plank thick wood for visual comparison.
 

 
I will add small pieces of wood to fill the gaps in the shelf behind each post.  This system worked out a lot easier than I had thought and I feel much more confident on the railing work on the stern now - which is a good thing.  Lots of ways to do things, but this worked for me.
 
Next up is the mast partner and then the catheads.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks for all the kudos, looks and likes!
 
Grant - for most of the ideas you have picked up here, I can probably refer to other builds where I snagged them.
 
Tim - I don't know if I am as good as lucky!
 
As i thought about the forecastle it became obvious two things had to happen first.  I had to pry off the top level outer planks since they were sanded down slightly more than they should have been and replace them.  Not too hard and easy to do.
 
The second was the railing had to be done now (or a factor of 10 in hardness later).  This was a half height railing (would not conform to OSHA standards) of five posts.  For strength I opted to mortise them into the deck beam.  After all the planking is attached I will attach a cap piece running the length of the beam to cover the end of the planks as well as most of the generated mortises.
 
First order of business was to generate five posts that had some carving done to their tops as well as a plank shelf running the length of the railing.  I cut a notch around the post for the 1/32inch shelf to slide into for support and maintain constant height.  To do this I always like a jig:
 

 
Once the post work was done I cut the post to half width where it connected with the deck beam using my Byrnes saw.  I always use a sled that I have built if I am not ripping down lengths of wood.  The whole sled moves with everything else anchored.  Very solid, very safe and easy to make several accurate cuts on different pieces of wood.  A micro-chisel was used to smooth down any bumps left by the saw blade.
 

 
I then attached one post at a time, starting from the center.  I also doweled the mortised section into the deck beam.
 

 
After each post was affixed I used a piece of oversized wood for the shelf and cut the slot for the post into the shelf.  This allowed one slot to be focused on at a time which was easy as opposed to five at the same time.
 

 
Working outwards it didn't take too long to get all the posts in and the shelf fitting snug.  Then I simply cut the shelf down to size lengthwise and width wise.  An important item to remember was that the deck planks have not been attached (so that size needs to be accounted for).  When I put the railing on the ship I put down a couple of pieces of plank thick wood for visual comparison.
 

 
I will add small pieces of wood to fill the gaps in the shelf behind each post.  This system worked out a lot easier than I had thought and I feel much more confident on the railing work on the stern now - which is a good thing.  Lots of ways to do things, but this worked for me.
 
Next up is the mast partner and then the catheads.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.'  I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice.  I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification.  This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah.
 
After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck.  So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats:
 

 
I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile.  Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes.  After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall.  Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats.  I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle.
 
I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago.  I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access.
 

 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Happy Easter

Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun).  I did a lot of touch up, the secret:
 

 
The spindle sander provided the sawdust.  I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything.  After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize.  Worked like a charm.
 
The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). 
 

 
I am pleased with the result.  Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle.  I have also actually fitted the bowsprit.  To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.'  I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice.  I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification.  This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah.
 
After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck.  So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats:
 

 
I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile.  Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes.  After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall.  Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats.  I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle.
 
I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago.  I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access.
 

 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Happy Easter

Hi Mark,
 
I've just finished reading your log from start to finish and just have to say what a fine build you have made. Congratulations on some truly excellent work. I've also picked up more than a few ideas for my current and future builds. Thanks for sharing all your techniques, tests and trials.

Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.'  I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice.  I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification.  This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah.
 
After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck.  So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats:
 

 
I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile.  Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes.  After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall.  Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats.  I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle.
 
I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago.  I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access.
 

 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Happy Easter

The Gammoning looks good. Well done.
 
Russ

Happy Easter back to you and yours.
Your build is looking great even if you are working with stuff you did years ago. I guess you were as good then as you are now.
 
Later Tim

Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.'  I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice.  I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification.  This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah.
 
After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck.  So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats:
 

 
I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile.  Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes.  After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall.  Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats.  I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle.
 
I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago.  I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access.
 

 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Happy Easter

Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.'  I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice.  I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification.  This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah.
 
After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck.  So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats:
 

 
I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile.  Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes.  After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall.  Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats.  I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle.
 
I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago.  I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access.
 

 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Happy Easter

Beautiful work Mark.. nice Explanation of using glue & sawdust to fill gaps, it's a tip we hear used often but nice to hear it explained for us novices ..
 
Have a great weekend
 
Eamonn

Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun).  I did a lot of touch up, the secret:
 

 
The spindle sander provided the sawdust.  I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything.  After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize.  Worked like a charm.
 
The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). 
 

 
I am pleased with the result.  Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle.  I have also actually fitted the bowsprit.  To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Hi guys well the other night I had a bit of a disaster I was trying to straighten the mast, which had started to bend again and it snapped off Oops said a few choice words which I am sure you can imagine words like umm....... Flipping Heck!! and Oh my gosh!!! that sort of thing.
Anyway today i resolved to cure it .I tried a piece of copper wire but being the same width all the way up it did not look at all right, so i thought about using the end of a paint brush and that worked extremely well. Here is the result, I think if you didn't know it was snapped you wouldn't know.

Wow, board looks pretty active right now.  Lots of great work going on all over the forums.  Thanks for everyone checking in.
 
To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts.  This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour.  I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required:
 

 
Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick.  To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum.  Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done:
 

 
I am moving to the forecastle.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun).  I did a lot of touch up, the secret:
 

 
The spindle sander provided the sawdust.  I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything.  After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize.  Worked like a charm.
 
The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). 
 

 
I am pleased with the result.  Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle.  I have also actually fitted the bowsprit.  To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Wow, board looks pretty active right now.  Lots of great work going on all over the forums.  Thanks for everyone checking in.
 
To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts.  This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour.  I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required:
 

 
Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick.  To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum.  Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done:
 

 
I am moving to the forecastle.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Wow, board looks pretty active right now.  Lots of great work going on all over the forums.  Thanks for everyone checking in.
 
To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts.  This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour.  I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required:
 

 
Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick.  To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum.  Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done:
 

 
I am moving to the forecastle.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Wow, board looks pretty active right now.  Lots of great work going on all over the forums.  Thanks for everyone checking in.
 
To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts.  This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour.  I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required:
 

 
Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick.  To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum.  Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done:
 

 
I am moving to the forecastle.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

As one who has 10+ years on my current build (calendar time, not work time) I totally understand.  The great part is that the build is always waiting.  A very nice Titon, look forward to seeing the progress.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Wow, board looks pretty active right now.  Lots of great work going on all over the forums.  Thanks for everyone checking in.
 
To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts.  This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour.  I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required:
 

 
Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick.  To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum.  Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done:
 

 
I am moving to the forecastle.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun).  I did a lot of touch up, the secret:
 

 
The spindle sander provided the sawdust.  I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything.  After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize.  Worked like a charm.
 
The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). 
 

 
I am pleased with the result.  Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle.  I have also actually fitted the bowsprit.  To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

I really like the look and that new figurehead is fantastic.  I really like that type of cutaway, really draws the viewer in (novice or expert).
 
I know what you mean about the dust.  I do the best I can but it is really a losing battle at most times.  I try not to look down into the spaces too often to not get too depressed!
 
Mark

Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun).  I did a lot of touch up, the secret:
 

 
The spindle sander provided the sawdust.  I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything.  After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize.  Worked like a charm.
 
The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). 
 

 
I am pleased with the result.  Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle.  I have also actually fitted the bowsprit.  To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks Greg and Michael and all the likes / looks.  I appreciate them, this build has been a long time in coming!
 
With spring break being over with all the trips / visits / teenage angst I can finally get back to work.  First on the list was the 90 eyebolts and 40 rings (18 gunports, 5 eyebolts per, 3 rings per).  Just pull up a cozy chair, have a good magnet nearby to find all those AWOL pieces and a mere 3 hours later they were done:
 

 
Since I needed to blacken them, it was a natural to finally get all those hinges done to allow everything to blacken in one bunch.  I sliver soldered a thin rod onto a cut rectangular piece of brass then super glued this along with another small piece of brass to achieve the look I wanted.  These were also used for the rear lockers.  Then everything had a coat of gel coating.  I did make this job easier when I suddenly realized I didn't need hinges on both sides of the door!
 

 
Then of course you have the obligatory draft install to check out the final look:
 

 
Another notch in the complete column.  Now for some clean-up, the addition of a small windlass, affix all that cannon tackle and I will declare the gun deck complete. Maybe by tomorrow night?
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark