popeye the sailor

Just dont let them try to milk it........
 
OC.

Thank you Lou. It feels like its been stalled for a while.
I think you are onto something with the camouflage. This could have a devastating effect on the Allies

Alan

I thought cows were supposed to be targets by those that think a cow is just really fat deer that tastes good.   When I lived in a small town a long time ago, the local paper every year printed a front page article the week before hunting season in big type about making sure your cows, horses, and other furry critters were out of the fields.  They did the same for chickens and ducks being away from the ponds before bird season.  

You can always do it in black and white and paint the word "COW" on the side. Everyone knows you are not supposed to shoot cows during hunting season.
 
I like the progress you are making

I've been getting bogged down with the corvette build so progress has been slow here. I decided that I like the box art paint scheme in spite of the historical evidence to the contrary. We will assume that it is in its initial field grey and there was only time to break it up with a brown pattern.
So the basic grey has been added. I'm playing with masks for the brown parts but I want to get a soft edge to the paint so I'm thinking I need to stand the mask off the model.

Thanks for looking in
Alan
 

Hi Patrick
Thank you very much for the paint information. It sounds like the Queensland museum got it right I think. That is a huge help. Thanks again
Alan

Results. 
Base color : (factory color) field Grey
Camouflage  : red brown, light green and lime yellow.

 

I found this interesting section while searching for paint colours for the hull of Mephisto, the tank I plan to model

I'm sure the mechanics role was a highly sought after post.
 
I painted the tracks, added a black wash and then some basic weathering. The running gear is pretty much covered by the hull so thought I would get it started before adding the hull. The hull was added and the rear part pf the hull put in place. A little putty is needed at the top corners; the mould seems to have rounded the corners leaving a slight gap. That completes assembly of all the parts. The painting of the hull should be fun. I'm trying to decide how much weathering is appropriate. It seems like they weren't around long enough to be really rusted and their limited clearance kept them out of the muddiest fighting.

 

 

Thanks for the kind words Denis. It was another nice Flyhawk kit although my example suffered some warping.
Thank you for the tips regarding getting rid of colour casts. I need to improve my photos including moving to a better camera. This one doesn't like the close up stuff that 1/72 armour and 1/700 naval models seem to need. I'll try some outdoors shots on the next one.
 
Thanks again
 
alan

so  the repair is done.......it was a success!  I did cut back on the crank pulley pin,  because it hit the lower frame when I went to put it back on.

the fan now falls short of the cross frame and the radiator and upper hose is also installed.   now come the big alert for anyone who wants to buy this model    for this model,  I was a good boy........I followed the instructions to the letter.  usually,  I will skip over steps that look as though problems may arise.  the rear view mirror was cemented on the dash and allowed to dry..........I also decided not to use the side glass,  for better interior visibility.  for all that the instructions say.........they are out of their cotton pick'in minds!  this body was the worst I have ever done.   the Hydro boost was in the way of the inner fender wells........that became dislodged.........the fear of breaking something was ever so present!

I slid the chassis forward to line up the windshield / glass....as well as the two pins for the inner fender well panels.  there is a plate in the center of the frame that stops the front of the body from going any more {that I will look at further},  it stops the pins from fully inserting into their holes.


these two tabs in the rear of the chassis must fit into these slots........the body must be pulled out to allow this to happen.  lucky I didn't break anything else!

outside of checking out the front........the body is on.   I didn't even glue it.......it will never come off....it is firmly in place!  more soon

Spanky and the gang......yup....watched them too!  then it was the wonderful world of Disney........Davey Crocket,  Daniel Boone,  Scarecrow of Romney Marsh....loved all those mini series   let's not forget Zoro! 
 
yea.......the colored plastic thing was a effort to appeal to a larger crowd.......those who didn't like,  or were not able to paint their models.  the trouble is.........once you were done trimming and sanding all the weird stuff off the parts,  they were a disheveled mess.  painting was always the logical solution  
 
I did make a little progress........and even in the process of correcting a pho-par with the kit.  when I got back to it.......I decided to just go ahead and freehand the bottom windshield frame....I didn't do too badly with the back window........

there are tabs for the windows.......it almost seems like they snap into place.  I used the window maker anyway.  

as can be seen,  I removed the date stamp on the underside of the trunk deck.  I was not going to see it showing through the body........the use of thinner will not remove it quickly.......sandpaper worked better    the model shown on the box does not use the side windows........I'm debating whether to do the same.  after the windows are in place,  the body can be added to the chassis.  the next step presents a problem.   in some cars,  a spacer had to be used on the radiator fan,  to locate it close enough to do it's job....keeping the radiator cool.  

seen in the picture above,  the fan is situated right over that piece of cross frame.........that is where the radiator is located.    the fan,  the belts,  and everything associated with it,  came off without too much of a fuss.  I like to paint some of the parts individually.......what can be assembled that is to be the same color,  is done as an assembly.  I don't usually scrape the paint off,  which can be a problem,  or part of a solution.  contrary to some beliefs, there is some adhesion that occurs.......considering that the finished model sits on the shelf afterwards,  that's good enough for me.  should something fall off,  it usually breaks off cleanly and can be cemented back on without much issue.  this helped me out here.......the fan assembly came off without a hitch.   I initially wanted to just remove the fan,  but the whole thing came off.........fine with me if it causes no damage   

the fan came off with a twist........I'll clean off the pulley,  shorted the spacer,  and glue the fan back on.  no problem...........Bob's your Uncle!    so.........while this was drying,  I decided to add some of the bling on the body.  
   one thing I've already done,  is detail the grilles.  there are two sections,  and what I did was dab some flat black in the grooves,  wiping the excess on the surface off with a cloth.  I don't do it too often,  so I can't wait to see how it will look.

I hope to have more done today  
 

I tried looking it up online........but couldn't find it.  the tanks were painted in vivid colors and camo

I made a small bit of progress with the pro modified.  I had settled for some paint work to finish up the last session........my most favorite things to paint.......the glass.  there is frame work to paint.......


fitting the back glass was rather easy.......sills are visible that support installation.


I just put the side windows in.........they were a bit more difficult to fit in place.  the body is slightly tweaked,  which doesn't help matters........I used tape to hold them in place while the window maker dries.  the windshield will be the worst of it.  more soon  

it's not as rare as you might think........I've done it as well     between you,  me,  and the lamp post,  it looks great    I get what your saying.........square pegs will fit in square holes     some models will have tabs in places where this won't occur {or it makes it hard to do it},  but I've been known to cut them off,  thinking that they are just products of sprue junk.   right now,  I've got a beef with a model I'm currently building.....I actually had to take part of it apart to fix it........so a percentage point goes to the model maker for some of the problems    my rule of thumb is if the problem can be corrected without damage,  then I'll do it.....if not,  then it is a learning curve for the next one.  I've also been know to purchase another kit....but that's rare......only if it benefits the spare parts bin 
  I thought the same about the nose.......moveable parts look wonky if they won't stay in place.   open it to expose the radar,  and the cone drops down or falls out of alignment.....not my idea of a cool model.  I've done planes where the canopy opens up and it looks terrible too.  one fellow didn't like the slot to allow the canopy to open........same here.  you lucked out.........that is a very clean canopy.   it fits nicely too  

a lot of folks don't paint brass.........bling is king,  don'tcha know     very nice start...the prop looks sweet! 

T-34's? WW2 vintage tanks.
By the way, watch the movie T-34 if you get the chance. It's a modern made Russian movie with English sub titles. I really enjoyed watching it on Netflix.

Folks  I think I will be putting this one on the back burner  for a little while, as  to  get the most out of my airbrush  and primer, I have ordered  some pipe cleaner  airbrush  brushes, so I can clean the clag out  when I use my Vallejo Primer.
 
In the meantime  I am going back to my Hood  build and do some  assemblies  on it.
 
OC.

Thank you kindly mate.
 
OC.

Very nice work OC
Alan

Evening all,   more progress  -  I have been  prep-ping the  assemblies ready for  priming, this involved  making some paper masks and fixing in place with some Blue Tack, including a small piece of paper  covering one of the sights,   I also  made the rear  vents  - these will be painted and fitted.
 
OC.

Just what I was looking for..
 
Thanks for all the great replies..  For some reason I hadn't flagged this for replies so I didn't realize I had any answers.

it's not as rare as you might think........I've done it as well     between you,  me,  and the lamp post,  it looks great    I get what your saying.........square pegs will fit in square holes     some models will have tabs in places where this won't occur {or it makes it hard to do it},  but I've been known to cut them off,  thinking that they are just products of sprue junk.   right now,  I've got a beef with a model I'm currently building.....I actually had to take part of it apart to fix it........so a percentage point goes to the model maker for some of the problems    my rule of thumb is if the problem can be corrected without damage,  then I'll do it.....if not,  then it is a learning curve for the next one.  I've also been know to purchase another kit....but that's rare......only if it benefits the spare parts bin 
  I thought the same about the nose.......moveable parts look wonky if they won't stay in place.   open it to expose the radar,  and the cone drops down or falls out of alignment.....not my idea of a cool model.  I've done planes where the canopy opens up and it looks terrible too.  one fellow didn't like the slot to allow the canopy to open........same here.  you lucked out.........that is a very clean canopy.   it fits nicely too  

quick glance at the picture...........line dancing.......square dancing........boy!  those chaps did it all over there  
 
I certainly hope the figures were pre painted.............can you imagine how much time was invested in this dio?!?!?!  what was the significance of the square formations?  very well done!

that makes sense.........much like what Ramsey did with his forces in the Game of Thrones series.  this strategy can also be seen in the Movie 'The 300',  although a famous Roman move was the Shield Huddle,  to deflect arrows.

Hiya Denis  - the Allies  formed squares  to  defend them selves against the French  Horse  charges, they were very effective that way  as a Four/Five man wall  was  a real threat to the French on Hourseback.
 
OC.