glbarlow
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glbarlow got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Not entirely true, like any glue you need to be neat and apply it carefully and sparingly. The hulls of my Winchelsea and Cheerful (see build logs) have no such stains.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Perhaps for you, not my guidance at all.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Cathead in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
I think you’ll find lots of us didn’t drill the interior ones. Easy to mess up and gouge the deck, they are largely hidden by the cannon anyway.
The eyebolts get easier, tiresome but easier as you lock onto a process that works for you. 12 cannon, 7 eyebolts and two rings each plus 4 more and two rings for the bulwark per cannon, you lave a lot more in your future. If you’re using Alaska Yellow Cedar you’ll find you can push the bolts into the wood. Mike’s is all boxwood.
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glbarlow got a reaction from robert952 in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Perhaps for you, not my guidance at all.
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glbarlow got a reaction from robert952 in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Not entirely true, like any glue you need to be neat and apply it carefully and sparingly. The hulls of my Winchelsea and Cheerful (see build logs) have no such stains.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Type of glue to use planking a hull
This is simply not true with a quality brand - perhaps some cheap brand might. CA is not universal, there are quality differences by manufacturer.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Gene438 in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Day and night opinions (which is what they are) on this topic, and likely a hundred or so different posts on the topic as a search would show.
I ALWAYS use CA for hull planking. Over a dozen models now, some 20+ years old and never had and still don't have any issue with the quality of my planking or its durability. Higher quality CA like Bob Smith Industries, (they aren't all the same) does not have excessive fumes or strong smell. In fact Bob Smith Industries has a version of CA that is odorless entirely.
Bottom line is use what works for you, as it seems everyone replying to this post has. It annoys me when instead of telling you their preference and reasons for it they denigrate someone else's. Why not just share why your method works for you.
CA works great, it's the right choice for me. I guess other glues must too, but I've never seen reason to try them.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Next up, mini animatronic people moving about the cabin.
Nice about your daughter, my kids just ask when will I float my Winchelsea in the pool.
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glbarlow reacted to Gregory in Type of glue to use planking a hull
I have been meaning to give Thick and Quick a try just to see how it does. CA Does take a little extra care, but a few seconds versus several minutes clamp time means a lot to me.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Canute in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Perhaps for you, not my guidance at all.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Canute in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Not entirely true, like any glue you need to be neat and apply it carefully and sparingly. The hulls of my Winchelsea and Cheerful (see build logs) have no such stains.
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glbarlow got a reaction from robert952 in Type of glue to use planking a hull
This is simply not true with a quality brand - perhaps some cheap brand might. CA is not universal, there are quality differences by manufacturer.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Day and night opinions (which is what they are) on this topic, and likely a hundred or so different posts on the topic as a search would show.
I ALWAYS use CA for hull planking. Over a dozen models now, some 20+ years old and never had and still don't have any issue with the quality of my planking or its durability. Higher quality CA like Bob Smith Industries, (they aren't all the same) does not have excessive fumes or strong smell. In fact Bob Smith Industries has a version of CA that is odorless entirely.
Bottom line is use what works for you, as it seems everyone replying to this post has. It annoys me when instead of telling you their preference and reasons for it they denigrate someone else's. Why not just share why your method works for you.
CA works great, it's the right choice for me. I guess other glues must too, but I've never seen reason to try them.
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glbarlow got a reaction from KennyH78 in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Next up, mini animatronic people moving about the cabin.
Nice about your daughter, my kids just ask when will I float my Winchelsea in the pool.
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glbarlow reacted to Gregory in Type of glue to use planking a hull
If it crystallizes, then there is something wrong with the formula, or the way it was used. Properly cured CA is just plastic, with fibers penetrating the wood, creating a mesh that is stronger than wood in some regards.
The bond can break under shear stress, but this is unlikely to happen with planking, and not any more so than PVA.
The times I have seen a CA joint come apart there was always shared wood on the two pieces, which means the wood broke before the glue did.
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glbarlow got a reaction from mtaylor in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Not entirely true, like any glue you need to be neat and apply it carefully and sparingly. The hulls of my Winchelsea and Cheerful (see build logs) have no such stains.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Canute in Type of glue to use planking a hull
This is simply not true with a quality brand - perhaps some cheap brand might. CA is not universal, there are quality differences by manufacturer.
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glbarlow reacted to hamilton in Type of glue to use planking a hull
I always use medium thickness CA for hull planking - and I also get glue on my fingertips. It's a pain! But if you invest in some isopropyl alcohol (nail polish remover) you can remove it once it's dried and crusty - it peels off like a scab once softened by the alcohol - as my skin gets thinner I worry it might take some skin with it when it does, but I prefer to use CA for this purpose as it allows speedier progress on a process I don't always get much enjoyment out of.....I have read of others who use PVA (wood glue), but my impression is that because of the slow setting and curing time it makes for very slow work....I'm willing to sacrifice my fingers for a little bit to get through it!
hamilton
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glbarlow got a reaction from robert952 in Type of glue to use planking a hull
Day and night opinions (which is what they are) on this topic, and likely a hundred or so different posts on the topic as a search would show.
I ALWAYS use CA for hull planking. Over a dozen models now, some 20+ years old and never had and still don't have any issue with the quality of my planking or its durability. Higher quality CA like Bob Smith Industries, (they aren't all the same) does not have excessive fumes or strong smell. In fact Bob Smith Industries has a version of CA that is odorless entirely.
Bottom line is use what works for you, as it seems everyone replying to this post has. It annoys me when instead of telling you their preference and reasons for it they denigrate someone else's. Why not just share why your method works for you.
CA works great, it's the right choice for me. I guess other glues must too, but I've never seen reason to try them.
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glbarlow got a reaction from VonHoldinghausen in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - 1:48
My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again.
The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end.
To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea by scrubbyj427 - 1:48
Those look really good, and I know represent a whole lot of work.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48
Excellent work Frank, very meticulous. Great plan to fit the channels now to void having to cut away that moulding later. After the qdeck cannon that’s next up for me, I’m hoping I can manage it without damaging the surrounding area, a problem you won’t have now.
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glbarlow got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
I think you’ll find lots of us didn’t drill the interior ones. Easy to mess up and gouge the deck, they are largely hidden by the cannon anyway.
The eyebolts get easier, tiresome but easier as you lock onto a process that works for you. 12 cannon, 7 eyebolts and two rings each plus 4 more and two rings for the bulwark per cannon, you lave a lot more in your future. If you’re using Alaska Yellow Cedar you’ll find you can push the bolts into the wood. Mike’s is all boxwood.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by KennyH78 - 1/48
Welcome, Winchelsea is a great project, I’m over two years into mine.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Matt D 1:48
I’d like to leave mine bright but char removal is a limited skill for me. Still looking great and glad to see you back at it.
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