glbarlow

I trace the outline of half the ship (from above view) from the plans, transfer that to a piece of 1x4 inch lumber, cut out the half hull profile with a scroll saw, cut a few notches into opposite side, soak the gunport patterns a few hours then clamp and rubber band it to dry on my board. 
 
The pattern then fits the ship perfectly and easily with no risk to the hull. I devised this when building my Pegasus, it also worked great on the bows of my Vanguard. 

In reply to the question "How did you determine the taper width on the stern" I used carboard strips and got the following measurements from bow to stern
Bulkhead position 1 = 35mm
Bulkhead position 2 = 55mm
Bulkhead position 3 = 65mm
Bulkhead position 4 = 70mm
Bulkhead position 5 = 78mm
Bulkhead position 6 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 7 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 8 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 9 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 10 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 11 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 12 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 13 = 80mm
Bulkhead position 14 = 45mm
Bulkhead position 15 =38mm
 
I believe there will be 16 x 5mm planks required for the 80mm dimensions, however this will be reduced to 15 planks towards the stern.
I fitted the first plank as a complete untapered plank and then tapered for the second plank but I only tapered at the bow end based on the above measurements using approx. 2.2mm as the stem post plank width. I also fitted the bottom two (keel) planks and I think I will continue to plank in both directions.

Wow, that must have been devastating. I'm enjoying modelling so much more now that I'm active on MSW and writing my own logs. I'll certainly learn from your experience and keep offline copies from now on.
I'm off to help my wife prepare dinner (steak and fries with a nice red!) so I'll sign off for now.
 
Derek

None of us were! Hard to believe that was seven years ago now. As to the question about drag, I don't know the answer, but I bet that Chappelle discussed it in either Baltimore Clippers or Search for Speed Under Sail.

Take a look at Vane's Speedy log (here). He cleverly saved quite a few strips of boxwood by using a cheaper alternative where it won't show. Well done on the quoting by the way - you picked that up quick!
 
Derek

Our posts crossed in the post, as it were! And you've now got more than me.

Thanks - glad it's helping you. With the first planking I simply eyeballed the taper. Chris explains his method in the build manual, but basically you lay a plank against the preceding one and let it go where it wants, than mark it where it starts to overlap the previous plank. Just give it a reasonable amount of taper from that point to the end - but reduce it by no more than half it's width. The stern is a bit tricky because after the initial few tapered planks that follow the tight curve of the hull, the planks need to get wider again - eventually you need to use triangular stealers to fill the gaps. Hopefully this is clear from the photos. I'm sure you know triangular stealers are not good practice where the planks show, but they're fine in Speedy where they will eventually be covered by copper.
 
Speaking of good practice, when you're quoting someone else you don't need to copy the whole post - it's just as easy to highlight the bit you want and hit the 'quote selection' prompt that comes up, and it makes it easier for others reading the log. Ccoyle's post immediately before yours is a good example. Hope you don't mind me mentioning this, but I used to do the same until someone else  pointed out the neater method.
 
I look forward to seeing your log.
 
Derek
 
P.S. Just noticed that you and I have the exact same number of posts to our name. Spooky!

I'd certainly recommend Chuck's edge bending method. I've seen him use a hot air gun and a small travel iron. I've tried both, and both work, but I find the iron works faster and, as it literally irons the wood flat, it reduces any tendency for the strip to bend in a direction you don't want.
 
Derek

I know, thing is, I thought there were 28 planks needed! lol. I will add three extra planks in all future kits, as I hate having just enough myself!

I will add in a few more first planking strips in future kits, as I always like to add more than enough of the base materials. If you had told me, I would have been more than happy to send a few more strips.
 
For the sanding of the hull, I now use a small electric mouse type sander for most of the hull, finishing with hand sanding.

The planking begins! It's a long time since I've done a double-planked hull, and I'd forgotten how (comparatively) easy the first planking is, when you don't have to worry too much about historical inaccuracies such as triangular stealers. However I did try to lay the planks as well as I could to minimise sanding and filling later on. The supplied limewood (aka basswood?) 1.5mm timber worked well. Chris recommends soaking in warm water for 30 minutes before tapering with a craft knife and steel rule, in order to ensure that the knife follows the rule and not the grain. However I found that wasn't necessary if I used a sharp scalpel and I did all my tapering without any problems. However I DID soak the ends of each strip by dipping them in recently boiled water for a couple of minutes, so that I could pre-bend them. I clamped the soaked strips to the hull and blasted them dry with my hot air gun. This got them close to their final shape and made final fitting with glue and pins much easier.
 
The first four strakes on the starboard side:

Progressing nicely:
 




Finished and ready to sand:

The 1st planking requires exactly 30 full strips, and the kit supplies exactly thirty. Unfortunately I'd snapped one strip in an early and unnecessary edge-bending experiment. However this wasn't a problem, as I was able to complete the last garboard strake with two shorter planks.

In summary, the kit design makes planking comparatively straightforward. For example the larger than usual number of frames and the ease with which they can be properly faired, and the use of strategically positioned filler pieces that help to support planks in the bow and stern areas. I found the small pins supplied particularly good at holding planks to the frames whilst the glue dried. I had been a bit worried the pins wouldn't hold in the MDF frames but they were fine. They were so sharp I stabbed my fingers several times trying to pick them up - yes, the red patches on the hull are blood! A couple of spare planks would have been nice, but certainly not essential.
 
Next job, sanding. 
 
Derek
 

I struggled with the gunport patterns. I suspect it was me, as the instructions are quite clear and Vane managed to fit them with little difficulty as described in his log. Bending them lengthways was no problem - they're only 0.8mm thick and soaking them in warm water as recommended works fine. I clamped them wet to the frames and used a hot air gun to set the curve. My difficulty came because I also had to bend the strips edgewise. I should  stress that I'm not talking about edge bending as recommended by Chuck in his planking videos - this is unnecessary for the Speedy gunport patterns as they are already curved to follow the sheer. Rather, I'm referring to the bend needed across the width of the strip in order to follow the tumblehome. This is particularly pronounced near the bow. I followed Chris's recommendation in the instructions to clamp the tops of the patterns to the tops of the frames and to pin the patterns at the bottom to hold them against the frames. To hold them tight against the frames I found I had to drive the pins right in - the heads are really small so I should be able to plank over them without causing bumps. Either that or I'll file them flat. This shows the port patterns clamped and glued in place (I must buy more clamps!).

The real difficulty came because bending these thin sheets in two dimensions caused them to buckle. The next pictures show the top and bottom views of the front starboard pattern:

I was reluctant to resort to sanding and filling on such a scale, so I resorted to my trusty travel iron, wetting the offending areas and trying to flatten them on maximum heat. The result was acceptable, I think.

Not perfect, but should be sortable during planking.
 
I'm probably making more of this than it deserves. I suspect that's because the kit so far has fitted together so neatly and easily that I'd forgotten that model ships inevitably require a degree of skill - they're not made of Lego bricks that snap together perfectly. I'll be interested to see what other Speedy builders make of this part of the construction.
 
Roll on planking!
 
Derek

Excellent progress so far. I suspect you’ll have overtaken me before long. I was sorry to hear about your accident, but at least it served to illustrate Chris’s great customer service - from what you say it sounds like he replaced the broken parts very quickly. 
 
I think you’re right to try edge-bending - it seems the best way to go. Using the gun port pattern to get the right curve was a smart idea, though it’s usually good to over-bend initially as the wood will tend to straighten slightly. Like glbarlow, I find  a travel iron works best. It literally flattens the wood, helping to ensure it doesn't bend in a direction you don’t want. 
 
Derek

You’ll find all across this forum people rave about the Byrnes saw, I like everyone else love mine.  I use it all the time along with my Byrnes Sander.  I haven’t sprung for the thickness sander yet, but based on the seemingly shortage of quality strip wood it may be next.  

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

Agree with everyone, start over, filler can't get you there from here.  You can find lime wood for the first planking cheap enough.  No offense but not sure you read Chucks Planking process correctly.  I just followed it for my current build and had great results.  I don't agree that soaking is the way to go, that can lead to warping and swelling. I think your issue is more one of not tapering enough (or at all) at the bow (and too much at the stern) and not using Chuck's sideways bending technique.  Get Chuck's hull outlining .pdf to see how to measure and mark the hull.  I've always managed by guesstimates on prior models but learned a lot by doing it in detail and with more precision with this latest hull.  
 
Have heart, we've all been there and we've all gotten past it.  Hang in there!

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

I see Crown Timberyard is also now out of business. Anyone have a good source still in business as of February 2020?

Agree with everyone, start over, filler can't get you there from here.  You can find lime wood for the first planking cheap enough.  No offense but not sure you read Chucks Planking process correctly.  I just followed it for my current build and had great results.  I don't agree that soaking is the way to go, that can lead to warping and swelling. I think your issue is more one of not tapering enough (or at all) at the bow (and too much at the stern) and not using Chuck's sideways bending technique.  Get Chuck's hull outlining .pdf to see how to measure and mark the hull.  I've always managed by guesstimates on prior models but learned a lot by doing it in detail and with more precision with this latest hull.  
 
Have heart, we've all been there and we've all gotten past it.  Hang in there!

No unfortunately in the USA there are no longer sources for milled strips of Boxwood,  holly or Swiss Pear.   There are only a few businesses left and they are all outside of the USA.  I am afraid that the only way folks are going to get stripwood like this moving forward is to invest in a good hobby saw like the Byrnes and buy sheets to mill your own strips.  Not only is it cheaper but after a short time you will get really good at it.
 
you can find domestic stuff like basswood or cherry but the sizes are limited.  Taking your models to the next level means learning how to use a saw like the Byrnes saw to rip your own strips.  Its not a good business to be in and it is unlikely that anyone will jump into this space to replace hobbymill.   

Yes Jeff certainly spoiled us all.  I miss the service every day.

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

The easiest thing to do is use water based acrylic - I use Admiralty paints but there are any number of options.  No headaches with water-based.

I'll be interested to see how it comes out.  My current plan is to use the engraved deck and see how that comes out.  I've planked every ship with holly or ash, spent all the time doing it and then once the ship is built out and rigged its not all that noticeable. I get the master builder point and the nuance of all modelers - and the fact that before now we really didn't have a choice. But maybe on this one I'll just enjoy the engraved deck.  The Speedy might be the first kit I don't bash.
 
One thing that did jump out is how wide the planks on the engraved deck are, mine are normally 4-5mm.
 
One point to check before you get to far is making sure the cannon still fit in the gun ports with the thicker planking..

As long as no copper is involved...🤣
I’ll look forward to seeing the different design and likely will be a customer despite my whining about big ships😏