Adrieke

thanks Kevin and Mobsie
 
i have been pondering about the painted hull. the green part is decently done but the white part looks horrible.not sure if its because its a light color that i tend to overspray , or the type of spraycan i used. Well to rule out the can i am going to the store and buy the proper cans ( more expensive)
Sjors mentioned airbrush, so i went and got myself informed on what i should buy if i go that way.
Depending on what they have in the store i ll either end up with the cans or an airbrush.
 
then its on to another session of sanding to get the hull prepared for the next session of painting.
with this model all i seem to do is paint

thanks Kevin and Mobsie
 
i have been pondering about the painted hull. the green part is decently done but the white part looks horrible.not sure if its because its a light color that i tend to overspray , or the type of spraycan i used. Well to rule out the can i am going to the store and buy the proper cans ( more expensive)
Sjors mentioned airbrush, so i went and got myself informed on what i should buy if i go that way.
Depending on what they have in the store i ll either end up with the cans or an airbrush.
 
then its on to another session of sanding to get the hull prepared for the next session of painting.
with this model all i seem to do is paint

first of all most models in the hobbystore closest to me is AL so that choice was made for me
 
so far i have bought 4 AL models (3 ships  1 stagecoach).
 
the virginia apart of some missing parts was a good kit for me to start. the rigging instructions though where lacking
the stage coach instructions are pretty good and all wood and parts are ok except for the 30mm wide mahavgony veneerstrips which break by only looking at them
the mississippi and the endeavour have many errors in instructions and accuracy but i dont think the wood is of a bad quality
 
overall i cant say i regret buying them

thanks Drazz
 
not much happening this week as I have been mostly busy with the GF.

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

not perfect , but looking side on it looks straight. I ll leave it for a day before spray painting the white.
 
I have also finished the stand.
 
also went and got a corkboard so I can pin the plans for some future builds
 
 

I think life never settles down , just a case of facing the waves head on instead of letting them sweep you away
 
did a bit more work on the Black Pearl :
 
i promise i ll get the build log up this weekend (and figure out why i can't add the pictures in the post itself)
 
 
 
 

Fore Tack Step Blocks
 
These are relatively large Blocks which attach to the Boomkins - 14" in real life. I made them from English Box, the pics tell the story :
 

 

 

 

 
Their Strops are served :
 

 
  Danny

Gammoning
 
The Gammoning consists of 9 turns crossing over each other vertically, followed by the same number horizontally to pull it all tight. A couple of half-hitches complete it :
 

 

 
Boomkins
 
The Boomkins were made in similar fashion to the other masts/yards, with the exception that they are curved. I cut them from rectangular stock and "octagonelled" them before sanding them round. They have a step at their outboard ends for the shrouds and Fore Tack Block :
 

 

 
A Capsquare fastens them to the head :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much for looking in again Brian, Allan, Arch, Nils, Grant, and a welcome to George .
 
Work has been continuing on the Bowsprit Rigging.
 
Bobstays
 
These are the equivalent of the Forestays on the other masts. Like all the Bowsprit rigging they are served all over. The inboard ends pass through the foremost holes in the Knee of the Head, and are spliced together :
 

 
Bowsprit Shrouds
 
The equivalent of the Shrouds on the other masts. These are hooked through eyebolts at their inner ends :
 

 

 

 
The outer ends of both the Bobstays and Shrouds finish in a heart block, and are lashed to their respective Collars :
 

 
  Danny

Chains are now done :)
 

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

this weekend I painted the top part of the hull dark brown. according to the instructions the distance between the top 2 strakes should be 10 mm front and aft, however the aft needs be 12 mm. I used part of the strakes to mark the lines. then masked below it and painted it 2 coats. During this process I accidentally scraped the lower green part so I ll need to do some fix up painting there.
 
I also started on spray panting the white part. I must have over sprayed as one side had paint running marks, so I ll have to wait till its all dry to sand these off before I continue

Hello everyone and thank you all for your best wishes, support and all the likes.
We are still under the weather with this flu like condition but we keep trucking.
 
Okay, I took one pic of the disaster with the dingy. I have now two broken ribs and am making plans to remake this bloom'n thing.  However, being the stubborn Dutchman I am going to finish this one even if it kills me, not really, it's just a figure of speech 
 
I cut the frames from a boxwood plank that I sanded down to 1 mm with the vertical grains on the bottom side.  I was hoping that by being extremely careful they wouldn't snap on me till the bottom planking was on.  Well, no such luck.
 
What I'll do for the next one is sand the boxwood plank down to 1/2 mm or so and glue them together 90 degrees opposed to each other.  That way the frames can support each other.  I guess i could run out to the hobby store and buy another sheet of 1 mm plywood for $20 bucks.  No, I'll play with this method, it looks much better from solid wood instead of seeing the plies and I'll have a nice glue surface too.
 
So, I'll look at this thing as my practice piece.  I can even use it as a spare dingy on the display board.  Add some damage to it and claim it's waiting for repairs    I need to do the stern planking also a little different at the keel.  
Who would have thought that such a little thing can give you such grief.  But then again, I'm doing it the unorthodox way.
 

Well, this shows a little better then half of the bottom planking glued on.  What I'll do with this one is make two new ribs with the "new" method and glue them in.  I used 1 X 3 mm planks, soaked them in water, shaped them on the frames and let them dry.  Then glued them om and after the glue had cured I sanded the planks down to 1/2 mm.  That way they would lay down nicely for the lapstrake.  They do look rather convincing. 
 
Cheers,

Hoi Carl, I guess vanity set in and shame   No, my friend, I'll make a picture of it with an explanation.  I really should star over again and may just do it but using a different method making the frames.  
I'm stubborn enough to just do that.  Tomorrow, with an explanation and pics, promise - - - provided I survive this crazy bug.
 
Right now I'm battling a flue like thing that drug me down.  I caught it from Gwen, naturally - - it's her fault 
 
By the way, all you y'all - attention please - - - I visited the Urology Center this morning and received the results of the three pieces of tissue from the bladder for the biopsy.  He even included one sample of the muscle.  The verdict - - drumroll please - - - all three are negative, NO benign tissue!!!!!        
No cancer anymore!!!!  
 
Cheers,
 
 

Gun Preparation
 
Each gun port on the gundeck requires 4 eyebolts to secure the gun tackles and breech lines.  The holes were drilled and the upper eyebolts fitted.  The lower eyebolts will go in with the breech lines:
 

 
As a review, I'll be using Chuck's brass canon from the Syren Co. in place of the kit-supplied white metal canon:
 

 
You can see a small bit of flashing in the trunion hole in the uppermost canon.  For this purpose, keep a 1/16" drill bit handy for (gentle) easy removal by hand (12 pounders) .  In the case of the smaller 6 pounders, a #67 bit will suffice.  Also, keep a small sanding stick ready to smooth the ends of the trunions.  I cleaned the guns by soaking in acetone before fitting the trunions.
 
Here's what the guns look like with the trunions installed:
 

 
Although one could choose to solder in the trunions, I chose to simply use the smallest dab of thick CA for this purpose.  It gives you time to work .
 
The next step will be fitting the brass rings for the breech lines to the guns.
 
 
 
 

congrats Mobsie, what a stunning masterpiece

not perfect , but looking side on it looks straight. I ll leave it for a day before spray painting the white.
 
I have also finished the stand.
 
also went and got a corkboard so I can pin the plans for some future builds
 
 

thanks mobsie, its good to be back, was so frustrating seeing it all sit there and not being bale to work on it.
 
yup Carl. OS installation is usually quick but all the other programs  :S. That's why these days after I reinstalled most things, I take an image, so It will be a lot less work to do it again.
 
well I finally started again
 
I am still not happy on how the hull turned out , but after several tries , I have resigned to the fact that I am not going to improve it much.
 
so I made the little jig to mark the waterline, and drew the line. as you can see even that didn't go smoothly. I used the level app on my works iPhone to get the hull straight. 
 
but it was enough to be able to use masking tape to get a nice straight line.
 
after covering the upper hull with plastic I spray painted it with dark green.
 
I am waiting now for it to dry , so I can find out how well I did on creating the waterline

not perfect , but looking side on it looks straight. I ll leave it for a day before spray painting the white.
 
I have also finished the stand.
 
also went and got a corkboard so I can pin the plans for some future builds
 
 

thanks mobsie, its good to be back, was so frustrating seeing it all sit there and not being bale to work on it.
 
yup Carl. OS installation is usually quick but all the other programs  :S. That's why these days after I reinstalled most things, I take an image, so It will be a lot less work to do it again.
 
well I finally started again
 
I am still not happy on how the hull turned out , but after several tries , I have resigned to the fact that I am not going to improve it much.
 
so I made the little jig to mark the waterline, and drew the line. as you can see even that didn't go smoothly. I used the level app on my works iPhone to get the hull straight. 
 
but it was enough to be able to use masking tape to get a nice straight line.
 
after covering the upper hull with plastic I spray painted it with dark green.
 
I am waiting now for it to dry , so I can find out how well I did on creating the waterline

not perfect , but looking side on it looks straight. I ll leave it for a day before spray painting the white.
 
I have also finished the stand.
 
also went and got a corkboard so I can pin the plans for some future builds