Elia

A milestone reached!  All the deck planking is now on.  The deck is far from finished, but at least the planking is all in place.  Next step will be to finish off the treenailing and then clean up the whole mess.  After that I can fit the capping rail and then give the hull a few coats of Wipe-on Poly to pretecvt everything.
 
John
 

 

 

The deck planking continues to plod ahead.  Just a few more to go now, so I should get them fitted on my next visit to the museum - then comes the rest of the treenailing and the cleaning up.
 
John
 

 

 

As always, I appreciate all of the comments so many have made on the Young America project.  I am sorry that it has been well over a month since the last progress report.  The model work has been on hold for a few reasons - work on the book manuscript, a two week vacation from which we just returned, and the need to do research and drawings for the next phases of the build - fitting out the main deck, masting and rigging.  I do not expect that there will be much progress on the model until later in the summer.
 
However, during that period I will be posting progress on the 1:96 POB version of the model that has been constructed for demonstration purposes - to support the POB modeling processes that are also described in the book.  Some may find this model and its contrasts with the 1:72 framed model interesting.  I will start a separate build log for this.  Since that model has progressed to the point shown  in one of the above posts, the build log will be somewhat retrospective, but I will continue it as far as I decide to take that model.  My intent with the smaller, simpler model has always been to take it to a point where remaining work on both versions can proceed from the same process descriptions.  That has been done and the final chapters in Volume I of the book apply to both versions.  However, I am considering continuing the POB build to a more finished state.  
 
Again, thanks to everyone for the continued support and comments.
 
Ed

Fantastic Ed.  It was always a mystery to me how the actual ship builders aligned their ribs so accurately.
 
Images look good but how it got that way is the marvel.
 
Great job..sir.
 
Rob

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 2
 
In the last part, spacers were shown being glued to the midship bulkhead.  The spacers were cut from ¾” thick pine, ripped to a width equal to the distance between stations (even numbered/lettered frame lines) and the 9” plywood thickness.  These were then glued to the bulkheads in an arrangement as shown in the first picture – to provide a continuous hull surface for later planking.
 

 
The spacers in this picture were cut to a width of 55” – marked on one of the loose pieces.  Station spacing in this area is 64”.  Subtracting the 9” plywood thickness leaves 55”.  As mentioned before, 9” plywood was used because that is the siding of the integral toptimbers.
 
The excess spacer material was removed by cutting along the bulkhead as shown below.
 

 
This was then trimmed right to the line using a disk sander.
 
The thickness of the glued assembly was then measured and if necessary adjusted and/or leveled by sanding as shown below. 
 

 
In this picture the midship bulkhead assembly is being sanded.  It has spacers on both sides.  The spacers are always sized at the broader of the two adjoining bulkheads, so bulkheads fore and aft of this one are smaller.  All other bulkheads have spacers on only one side – the forward side on those forward of midship and the aft side on those aft of midship.  Trimming the second bulkhead on this frame is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the finished midship bulkhead trimmed to size with its adjacent partner – both ready to be erected.
 

 
In the next picture the midship bulkhead is being erected on the spine. 
 

 
The alignment methods are virtually identical to those used on the fully-framed version – squares set at the maximum breadth line on both sides and additional squares to hold it vertical and on the station line.  The only glue joint here is between the plywood and the spine.  Additional bulkheads will add the strength as they are installed.
 
This is very similar to the alignment of real frames at the original shipyards.  Using this method on these simple assemblies is a step toward erecting authentic model frames on more advanced models.  This was one of the purposes behind this process – and the entire bulkhead model.
 
Erection of additional frames will be described in the next parts.
 
Ed

Thanks George, Mark, Russell (you didn't have to wait long ) and Janos .
 
Ribs
 
I used the plug to form the 1/32" square ribs, once again using Tamiya tape to hold them in shape while they dried. The Tamiya tape holds onto the resin plug very well, and is easy to apply using the tape holder/cutter. The tape is 1/4" wide :
 

 
A couple of hair clips hold the rib in position whilst the glue dries :
 

 
The aftmost rib. The tops of the ribs will be trimmed when they are all fitted :
 

 
 Danny

Planking
 
As suggested in the instructions I've planked the hull of the cutter without the ribs - they'll go in later as most of them would come off the planking when the hull is removed from the plug. This pic was taken with a couple of runs left to do. I'm using Tamiya masking tape to hold the planks in position while they dry :
 

 
The cutter removed from the plug. It came out very easily :
 

 
Some pics of the outside. The planks need a "rolling" bevel both fore and aft to fit to the stem and transom :
 

 

 

 

 
There was very little excess glue inside the hull. These pics were taken before I started any cleanup :
 

 
You can see a couple of wedges in the bow which I inserted to ensure a tight fit to the plug. Isopropyl alcohol made removal of them easy :
 

 
 Danny

I redrew the plans of the hull at the size of the model I wanted to built, using the extreme method of pencil and paper...
I drew the lines of the false keel and the positions of the frames.
 

 

 
I cut the false keel and the frames from plywood, while I cut strips of beechwood for the planking.
I had chosen the “planking on bulkheads” method and I started building the hull with only one layer of planking.
The hull was going to be built up to the level of deck, placing later the final keel, stem and stern-post.
 

 

 

 
Thanks
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi mates.
Starting a new model by the end of last summer, I had the drawings of a hull and short of a photo. The drawings were giving me the lines of a hull while the photo, taken in 1927, was showing rather the shape of the real boat.
It was a Tserniki vessel being anchored among others, at the port of Mytilene Island (N.E. Aegean Sea) and I thought these would be enough for a good start.
Some for the history… Tserniki was a double ended vessel with a straight stem post, leaning forward. Its name might comes from the Turkish vessel “Tsikirne” or from a vessel used on the Danube which was called “Cernik” or “Cirnik”. However it appears to have been used extensively by Greeks and in many other versions. (Different angles of the stem post or even with a stern counter)
Tserniki vessels were mainly built by shipwrights of the Eastern Aegean islands and coastal towns of Asia Minor and were used as small transport vessels or fishing boats.
Although I had no any rigging plan and the photo was showing nothing more than a single mast, I took the challenge, seeking also the joy of a further research…
 
.............

 
.................
 
...  Thanks

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 1
 
The 1:72 framed model of Young America will be on semi-hold for the next month or so, while I do further research and prepare drawings for the remaining work to complete the model.  Since I have been working in parallel on a smaller 1:96 POB version of Young America, I decided to include some of that work in a separate build log.  I do not yet know how far I will take this model.  It has been built as a demonstration model for Volume I of the Young America book, which includes substantial information – text, pictures, drawings, patterns - for building this smaller, simpler model.  I included this to address interests of beginning scratch builders and/or those not wanting to build the fully framed version.
 
In developing methods for constructing this model, I wanted to think of this as a stairway on the learning curve to upright, framed modeling, like that used on Naiad, YA, Alfred, the popular Swan Class types, and others featured on this site.  Although the hull framing for the POB model is much simpler, the methods described for setting and aligning bulkheads are very similar to those used on the larger framed version – and like those used in the real shipyards.  These methods differ somewhat from common forms of POB modeling.  I hope this different approach will be of value to some modelers.  Like my other build logs, this will be an overview of progress and general description of methods - not a detailed tutorial. I leave that to the book.
 
So, with that introduction, I will start with some preparations.  The first picture shows the model shipway constructed for the POB model – next to the larger version.
 

 
This photo was taken last November, shortly after deciding to incorporate a POB version in the book.  The shipway is much simpler – no T-tracks and made from a melamine coated particle board shelf.  The shipway plan is also simpler and geared to setting bulkheads instead of square, half and cant frames.
 
The next picture shows the “spine” on which the bulkhead assemblies will be set.  Stud bolts are being installed that will attach it to the shipway and later serve as hold-down bolts.
 

 
The spine is not a keel and does not replace the keel.  A fully detailed keel assembly will be fit under this later.  This is merely a device on which to align bulkheads.  It is thick enough for that purpose and initially extends well beyond the hull.
 
The next picture shows the spine bolted down and the studs trimmed to size. 
 

 
The picture also shows simple, homemade squares that can be clamped to the shipway as shown.
 
The next picture shows the midship bulkhead set on the spine.
 

 
The bulkhead is cut from 3/32”, aircraft grade plywood, from the pattern shown.  The pattern is an early version – note the pasted-on ID.  Other detail was later added to the final patterns.  The bulkhead includes the toptimbers.  These were sided 9” (3/32” at 1:96).  The high quality plywood will allow these to be finish sanded and painted, eliminating the need for separate toptimbers.
 
Pine spacers, cut from ¾” stock, provide the primary strength in the hull assembly.  These are cut to widths that match the spacing between bulkheads. In the next picture two of these are being fitted to the midship bulkhead. 
 

 
Most frames have four of these that fill the space between the plywood bulkheads.  When faired to the outsides of the bulkheads, the spacers will provide a smooth, flat planking surface as well as great strength to the assembly.  More on these spacers in the next part.  
 
Ed

Progress Update and Discussion:
I have not posted for a while, mainly because of problems and frustration with the transom assembly on this vessel.  I thought I had the transom installed EXACTLY as per the instructions.  The position was correct and the angle of the transom relative to the bulkhead former was precisely the same as the template provided (Fig. 11, p.13).  It all seemed to be good.  Planking the hull went smoothly - no severe bends needed for the strakes like with FAIR AMERICAN.  However, when I started planking the bulwarks, I realized that the bulwarks met the transom at a much steeper angle than shown in the plans...and nothing like the Ben Latham would be.  I also discovered that Bulkhead K was off center; something I failed to spot earlier.  I was too far along to rip everything out and start over, so I decided to move forward and see if I could fix it.   Well, as we say here in Virginia, it was kinda like watching sausage being made - not pretty - but I did it to my satisfaction.  I have progressed to the point where I know there will be a finished ship model at the end.  I can no longer claim to be modeling the BENJAMIN W. LATHAM though, and because I have given up on the seine boat, I am no longer modeling a mackeral seiner.  So I guess this will simply be a representative Grand Banks Fishing Schooner.  And that's OK.  I can now borrow ideas from Elia's Arethusa build log as needed. Also, I can add that white stripe at the water line that I really like. Here are some photos to show you my progress to date-
<<Gary>>
 
 
 
 

Progress update:
 
I finished installing all fake stanchions, and started planking the deck. Since I’m going to paint the deck anyway, I’m using 1/8 x 3/32 planks instead of the 1/8 x 1/8 provided with the kit.
After a futile attempt to cut nibs on the foredeck planks, I decided my Benjamim Latham will not have any nibing on the deck.
Here is a picture of work in progress. I use the Elia’s patented Lego method to hold the planks in place while the glue is drying   

 

Greetings,
 
Once again, I've stent too much time away from the bench so last week I decided to get back to it during a rainy weekend.  I got tired of looking at the hull one color so I decided it was time to add the waterline.
 
 

 
Cheers,
Tim

Hi All,
 
I wish I knew what broke me out of the slump I was in.  Then I would know what to do next time.  Anyway the mast hoops were one of the things giving me trouble.  I tried making them out of wood and then plastic, I was not happy with either.  I finally came up with the Idea that a manila folder would be the same color as wood.  I rolled a piece around a dowel with lots of glue, put it in the lathe and tore it to shreds.  Finally I cut thin strips of the card stock, tapered one end and wrapped them around the dowel covered with plastic wrap, a spot of CA at the start and a spot of CA at the end.  After all were wrapped I saturated them with CA to make them hard.  After a little clean-up I slipped them onto the mast.  Now maybe I can get on with the sail and rigging.
 
Bob
 

Strips cut 0.030” for a 1.5” thick ring.
 

Tapering the ends.
 

Strips wrapped around dowel.
 

Finished rings
 

Rings on mast.

Earlier than my steering wheel endeavor I had fabricated the cat heads and installed the chainplates. All of the deck furniture remains only temporarily placed for context.
 


 


 
Funny thing about the deadeyes - they don't want to stand upright, as in the photos. They lay over, free on their pivot pins...
 
And last, but not least, thank you to all those who've 'liked' my updates!
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

This past winter and spring I pondered how to fabricate a few of the remaining deck furniture  details for Arethusa.  The steering wheel, the cat heads, and potentially remaking the deck pumps, due to the fact that over time, as I stared at my original sculpey ones, I found them a little less than attractive.  We’ll see if I remake the pumps or not.
 
The Gloucester schooners of the late 1800s and early 1900s employed cast steering wheels over the built-up wooden wheels we see on many earlier period ships.  One of the principal manufacturers of the cast wheels was A.P. Stoddard Company of Gloucester, MA.  The wheels contained a cast rim, a cast hub, and 8 spoke/handles.  The overall dimensions of the wheels ranged from about 30 inches in diameter (of the rim) to 36 inches diameter.  
 
The design I am using was for Elsie, a similar vintage and approximately similar sized schooner to Arethusa.  The Elsie plans from Model Shipways contain views of the wheel, but enlarged to 1/24 scale, twice the size of my model.  This wheel was also printed in a series of articles Erik A.R. Ronnberg wrote from the Nautical Research Guild's Journal in the 1990s. (I think).  So I used CAD at work to create a 1/48 scale set of ‘wheel’ drawings.  Since the wheel details are quite small at 1/48 scale, I only focused on the major geometric details.  The Elsie wheel is 48 inches (true) from brass cap of one handle to the opposite side handle brass cap.  The rim is 36 inches OD, and 30 inches ID.
 
In this post I’ll show you my approach to making the ships wheel.  What follows is my fourth or fifth attempt at the wheel.  I first tried making one from sheet styrene.  No luck.  Then I tried using boxwood and styrene.  Again failure.  I followed that up with an all boxwood wheel’s rim.  Nope, no good.  At the top of my wish list of of modeling power tools is a lathe… but with largish scale home projects ongoing I can’t justify such a purchase right now.
 
What I found I was struggling with was the fact that the flanges and the web of the rim as very thin at 1/48 scale.  Couple that with a detail the cast rims present - ‘cylindrical’ swells around each spoke at the rim - and, well, I was stumped.  Then, one night something struck me - why not make the rim’s web from two thin sheets of brass.  Once I had the ‘rings’ of the web formed it seemed it shouldn’t be too difficult to crimp them around spokes, or at least spoke mandrels. 
In my ‘brass’ box I had a nice amount of 1/64” thick by 1/16” wide K&S brass strips.  I also had brass sheets stock but attempts to cut out the rings to an acceptable shape proved difficult for me.  I annealed the 1/64 x 1/16 strips and found a suitable mandrel with which to form the web rings.  
 

 
The mandrel was part of a VW Passat B5 tie rod extraction tool (from a past project/era).  I first crudely formed the strips into flat rings, re-annealing throughout the forming, to allow the rings to take a smooth shape.  I then used the mandrel to allow final forming along the underside of the bolt head (following picture).  
 

 
The ring’s ends were then soldered together to form what are essentially thin brass washers.  For this step I used silver solder paste and my butane torch.
 
The next picture shows the crimping of the two ring webs around 0.020 brass rod, which at scale is slightly larger than correct, but available and easy to work with.  These are demonstration rings, as my originals had passed this point of the process before I paused long enough to consider taking pictures.  I used the CAD print to mark where the spokes would be placed.
 

 
Once all of the crimping around the spoke locations was complete I soldered the two web sides together.  For this solder step I used Stay Brite silver solder, which has a melting temp in the somewhere around ~500F.  I soldered in every-other ‘bay’ between spoke locations.  I did that so that when I soldered the flanges onto the rim I could alternate bay locations, providing some ‘distance’ between soldered joints in an attempt to minimize secondary or tertiary soldering from undoing prior soldered sections.
 
I used my trusty mandrel to form the inner flange of the rim, fitted it to the inside of the web ring, trimmed it, and soldered it on place, using the designated ‘clear’ bays for soldering.
 


 
I then used a wooden dowel as a back stop and drilled though the inner flange with my dremel.
 

 
Nearing the completion of the rim I used another mandrel to form the outer flange.  I clamped it in place, marked the spoke locations, and drilled the holes using the prior mentioned drill setup.
 
Parts were filed, flux was applied.  I used some of those 0.020 inch brass rods to maintain alignment of the holes to the rim web.  I used clamps to keep everything in place.  I snipped tiny pieces of TIX solder (melt temp around 270F), and located them.  Heat was then applied.  It looked great.  Really sweet.  I took off the clamps and went to remove the brass rods.  Oh CRUD!  [actually, insert colorful sailor language here].  The flux and solder had run…and the brass rods were soldered in.  I tried heat with the soldering iron, but no luck.  I was concerned about applying too much heat and having other portions of the assembly come apart.  So I set about marking and drilling out the brass rod material.  It worked OK, although the holes weren’t quite as well located as the originals.
 
On the second portion of the outer flange I chose to omit the brass rod ‘alignment’ aids and it all worked out well.
 

 
So here is the rim essentially completed.  The swells in the rim web are visible, and the rim flanges are reasonably to scale.   It is a little larger in OD than the plans.  Not perfect, but I’m happy with it.  Now on to the tiny hub.

 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Frenchguy,
 
Thanks for that link. I've read some on Billy McCoy and have seen some photos of Arethusa (Tomoka) during the rum running years. There were some photos I hadn't seen before there. The photo of Rye Whiskey stacked like hams in the hold was amusing to me, as were the deck photos.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Hi Elia,
I thought you might be interested in this article in the latest issue of BoatUS magazine: http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2015/june/the-real-mccoy.asp
It’s about Bill McCoy who purchased the Arethusa in the 1920’s for a purpose that, let say was not exactly as glamorous as mackerel fishing 
There are some pictures of the Arethusa deck in there. Something I learned is that the wheel of the Arethusa was the model for the helm of the famous Gloucester Fisherman’s memorial in Gloucester.

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Final Bluenose post from me. I've taken it as far as I'm willing to. Might have to revise my motto because more things broke as I tried to repair others. She sits above my work station, and I have to say I'm amazed that she turned out as handsome as she did.
 
Next, Constructo's Louise.
 
John

Another small update.  I was pretty busy talking to visitors last time at the museum, however I did manage to get a bit more deck planking done.  I've also started on treenailing the deck and will continue this work as the deck progresses.
 
John
 

 

 

Thank you everyone for your kind thoughts.  She is sleeping right now so I have a few minutes to post my progress on the stove.
 
There are a lot of descriptions of the galley stove on MSW as well as in TFFM Vol 2, so I will not belabor that here.  The stove is a model in itself and I have been playing with it for a month already.  The first decision to be made was what materials to use.  This would also drive the construction technique.  I decided that this was a detailed "representation" of a stove but that no one would be cooking with it.  Therefore, sheet brass was eliminated from consideration except for details.  What I came up with is a collection of wood scraps, aluminum adhesive tape and shim brass.  The side panels have three larger doors and one small one.  
 

 
After these were made, a spacer was put in the middle of the stove and the fore and aft faces were constructed.  The bolts, cooktop and chimney were added.  The rest of the details will be added later.
 

 

 

 
The stove was fit in place on the model and was too tall.  So back to square one.  I shortened the height by 6" and it fits nicely.  It was painted with flat gray primer and flat black (Testors rattle can).
 

 

 
I am sorry the pictures are not of be best quality.  It is hard to pick out details on a black object so I played with Photoshop so you could see more than a black blob.  The lids for the pots are brass sheet which was drilled for the brass wire handles.  So far I am happy with the results.  It actually looks like a stove! 
 

 
Next up will be adding the details to the stove, making the base plate and installation.

Let me give you an example of life getting in the way.  For the last 8 days I have been dealing with a sick dog.  To make a long story short, my 12 y/o dog stopped eating and was obviously in pain.  Two trips to the vet later, an X ray demonstrated a foreign body in her stomach.  Off to surgery we go.  She becomes critically ill during the night and a repeat X ray was performed.  The overnight vet called to ask why they had only removed one of the two foreign bodies!  Back to surgery the next day to remove the other two foreign bodies.  She has been teetering on the edge of life all week but decided to eat some scrambled eggs today.  They have decided she is depressed and, besides, I am a physician, so she would do better at home.  So now it is six medications, each on a different dosing schedule, syringe feedings and hourly walks since (for the docs and vets out there) she is starting to mobilize the 4 kg of fluids she acquired during her holiday.  At least she got a complimentary nail clip. 
 
For you savvy dog people out there, the middle foreign body is the Daily Growl, a white plastic squeaky toy that she has not had access to in several years.