Elia

Today I started by lowering the camber on the rear cockpit bulkhead , I then realized that the Transom knee needed to be cut down to allow for the rear deck . On the forward cockpit bulkhead , I cut out the frame brace to match the deck camber of the birch ply . I then installed the bulkheads and layed out the cockpit seats ( another one of those trickier than I thought situations ) I then cut out 4 seat braces for aft of the cockpit and 2 larger ones for the bow. This is because the deck angle change's sharpley for the cockpit coaming . I then turned my attention to the Keel . I filled in the bottom of the keel with wood ( this normaly would be the Lead part of the keel ) I then faired it in with the rest of the Boat.  Here are the results

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 65 – Lower deck framing continued
 
More of the same, I’m afraid.  It looks like the lower deck framing is going to take about a month.  The first picture, taken from directly overhead, shows the lower deck framing back as far as the midship beam.
 

 
Once the last beam forward of the midship view port is installed, I intend to work from the stern forward so the last frames will be those at the  view port.  Having only one hanging knee to fit on these beams will reduce the fitting of these in the last tights spaces – and also to allow plenty of room for fitting the aftermost small beams by doing those first.
 
In the next picture a hanging knee is being fit to one of the small beams at the stern.  The limited space is apparent.
 

 
This knee was cut using the new pattern shown in the last post.  In the next picture the installation of that beam has been completed – except for the lodging knees
 

 
The next picture shows the aft framing progressed past the mizzenmast step.
 

 
A ledge is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the extent of the lower deck framing currently completed.  I need to get going on some of those lodging knees.
 

 
This picture gives a good idea of how for forward the "deadflat" midship frame is placed.  Finally, a look forward below deck along the keelson.
 

 
The height of that keelson is 4 feet above the floor frames.
 
 Ed

Since that last view was popular, I will have to take some more. Without the use of mirrors or other micro devices this has to be done while the camera will still fit down in he hull. The picture was taken with a 2 1/2" x 4" Canon Powershot set down onthe keelson. The photo was then cropped. The Powershot is not the smallest of cameras, but it is a lot smaller than the slr I use for most of the pictures. The light from above plays tricks with the colors. I could have done a better job with the post-processing. The picture is a bit light. Here is a better version.
 

 
Ed

Another small update.
 
Here is the window framing and fake panel. Still needs some clean up, but once it is painted, it should be presentable.
 
Russ

Here is another small update. I do not seem to do any other kind.
 
The starboard deck house window is fitted. This one went a little easier being the second try at it.
 
I have also begun fitting the hatch rails and the door.
 
Comments and questions welcomed.
 
Russ

Hi all. Some more photos as progress continues The first few show the hull with the deck template over the hull. This is important because it gives me a good idea of where the internal bulkheads for the cabins, etc will lie.
 
The next few photos show the hull after I "painted" it with a black permanent marker. The reason I did this was so that the high spots and hollows can be easily identified as the hull is fine- sanded. I've also started to plot the correct shape and position (although not shown in the photos) of the internal deck(or floor). Getting this correct, is of course, fundamental, because it determines the height of the accommodation bulkheads, etc.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.

Thank you very much for the kind comments Patrick, Grant, Keith, Rowan Elia, Mark, Tony, Lawrence and Row .
 
Well this project is finally finished and delivered to it's owner - to say she was delighted with the result would be an understatement . I told her at the start that I'd have to charge her for any materials I had to buy, and she said that was no problem at all. Total expenses were just under $150 for such things as a bottle of Acetone, another of Turps, paint, extra timber, glue, knife blades etc. I was going to donate my labour, but she would have none of that and I received a very nice surprise when I opened the envelope with the money later that day - an extra $100 . My total labour worked out at about 80c an hour, but like I said I would have been quite happy to do it for free .
 
Here are the pics of the finished ship, with a couple of "before's" under some of them :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Please ignore the way she's rigged - my aim was always to make this a "decoration", not a historically correct model. I only rigged the Lifts and Braces to all the yards, and threw in the Sheets and Tacks for the Fore and Main Masts to help "fill in the gaps". The rigging fulfills that aim. BTW - I know the Braces for the Main Yards should have been around the other way (i.e. toward the Mizzen Mast), but it would have left too much empty space in the middle .
 
I'm already a fair way into my next "holiday van" project - a similar situation to this project where the original builder passed away before completing his model of an Artesania Latina "King of the Mississippi" and I'm completing it for his family. Here's a LINK to it if you're interested.
 
Work will also be done on "Vulture" in the meantime .
 
  Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 64 – Lower deck framing continued
 
There are not a lot of new kinds of work going on at present – just a continuation of the lower deck framing – very repetitive.  Item for item, the hanging knees absorb much more time than any of the other deck framing components.  I mentioned earlier that I am using a few “starter” shapes that are then modified to fit a given location.  The first picture shows the three shapes initially used on the lower deck.
 

 
The center and left shapes - to be used in the central part of the hull - worked out fairly well.  The shape to the right was a guess that I took at a starting point for the knees at the ends – not as good a fit.  I eventually surrendered and lofted the more complete set of 11 different starter patterns shown at the top of the picture.  The differences between those at the ends and the single piece at the right are pronounced, so this additional lofting for the other decks is planned.  The pattern shapes are marked with frame numbers and the number required of each in parentheses.  Each pattern will yield 6 frames when cut from a 1” thick block of wood.
 
The new shapes are still only approximate and will require shaping to fit.  The next two pictures illustrate my process for this.
 

 
First a knee is held up under the beam and the high points noted.  These are then sanded down using the disk sander as shown above.  This is repeated until there is a match.  The knee is then beveled as shown in the next picture using the tilt table on the sander to help with uniformity. 
 

 
After fitting, the knee can receive its dummy bolts, get a final sanding and be glued in place.  To strengthen the connection, two copper wire functional bolts are installed after the glue sets.  The next picture shows a hole for one of these being drilled down through the beam into the knee.
 
 

 
The hole is drilled at an angle into the throat of the knee to resist it coming loose.  A copper wire is then coated with epoxy and pushed into the bottom of the hole.  Another bolt is then installed from outside the hull as shown below.
 

 
The epoxied bolt is being clipped off in this picture.  The hole for this bolt is also drilled into the throat of the knee.  Additional dummy bolts will later be added to the outside of the frames and to the top of the beam.  All will be black.
 
The carlings and ledges are being added in the wake of the beam setting.  The score for a ledge is being marked in the next picture.
 

 
The ledges are centered on the carlings by eye and the top corners of the carling marked with the chisel. This is much more accurate than pencil marking.  The seat is then filed out.
 
All the ledges are cut from straight pieces.  I did not round up the ledges on this deck.  Ledges set in the center are fixed slightly higher than the tops of the carlings, and then rounded off to match the beams by sanding as shown below.
 

 
The framing will not be finish-sanded until all bolts in the tops of the beams are installed.  The last picture shows the current state of the framing.
 

 
Wax finish is being applied progressively to the areas under the installed beams.  The last beam set in this picture is at the dead flat.  This terminology is something of a misnomer in that, unlike the configuration of most earlier ships, it is not at the widest point in the hull except in the neighborhood of the load waterline.  Above that height the breadth is slightly greater in the next frames aft and the maximum breadth in the lower hull occurs in the frames slightly forward.  The differences are small but it is an interesting point – probably the result of the original design being developed on a half-model and the offsets for construction taken from that – the nicety of a single dead flat frame being lost in the process.  This midship frame also occurs at about 25 feet forward of the midpoint of the hull – so I am not yet at the halfway point in framing this deck.
 
 Ed

This Morning I awoke 3 hours earlier than normal for me. ( this is either a Good thing or not ) I choose for it to be a good thing. I decided to put my theory to the test by build a Proto-type Herreshoff 12 1/2 , at 3/4" = 1' - 0 "using the L. Francis Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 ftr as a base line, in wich He had lengthend his Fathers version of the 12 1/2 with the same beam, I decided to shorten the frame spacing from 18" to 16" thus giving me a 12' - 6" waterline .(reversing what L. Francis had done ) and in theory giving me the original 12 1/2 . I am using the Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 ftr plans as well as photos and other information that I have gathered as my reference's. Here are some pic's of what I am going for. I feel pretty good about this build

Today I started by Building a cradle , while I pre soaked the material to finish the planking. Once the cradle was built I finished up the planking, athen I finished rough Fairing the hull. next it will need to be sanded with 600 grit, to get it ready for epoxy . I am very pleased with this build as it has been a challenge. Here are the results

Today, I thought I would finish Planking the Herreshoff, However I realized that I did not cut in the 1/8" for the Transom. I decided that I would add a 1/8" X 1/8" strip  to the stern of the Keel, and move my Rabbet line 1/8" aft. That is somthing that I will remember for the next one ( and there will be a next one ) there are already a few things that I would do differently. ( That will be for the next build log ) Anyway I then started soaking my planking material while I finished shaping the sheer line ( I am pleased with the result ) It matches the Print . the Planking went smooth and all the seams are nice and tight. I did a good amount of Fairing . Next will be to finish the Planking and build a Cradle . I have had alot of fun building this boat ( my favorite so far ) and aside from the transom sticking out an extra 1/8" ( or the boat being 1/8" too long ) the rest of it is right on the money. Here are the results

Good Morning, Pete:
 
I had a Buzzards Bay 14 for fourteen years, until last month.  It came with a full set of plans which the original owner had acquired from either the Herreshoff Museum or the maritime museum at Mystic.
 
I had it rigged as a gaff cutter, with topsail; it was great fun to sail, well balanced, very flexible, powerful and a beautiful sight on the water.  I've attached a picture.
 
Good luck: it's a worthy project.
 
Rick (Rick020763, new member)

Thank you Nils,  I am happy with how this boat is going together , It has been a challenging build but enjoyable, here are a few more pics
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Yesterday I installed the Transom and started fairing. Today, I finished fairing the Frames to get it ready for planking, I then soaked  1/4" X 1/16" X 24" strips in alcohol . After the fairing was complete, I then was able to get 4 rows of planking installed . Here are the results

Thank you Bob, I was happy as well.
 
Today I installed the Ribbands making sure to keep everything Square. ( so far so good ) Next will be to install the Transom, and start fairing the frames. Hopefully I will start planking soon. Here are the results

Today I started by squaring up the frames in the Cockpit section. I then decided to cut in 2 Cockpit Floor Stringers, ( 3/ 32 " square  stock )I figured I would square and plumb this section of the boat first. ( this would be from stations 6'- 0" to 13' - 6" ) after that section was glued , I then installed the rest of the frames working from the cockpit to the Bow. By working this way has kept the Boat square and plumb ( I am very pleased ) Next will be to install the rib bands the Transom and fair the frames. Here are the results

Well it happened, I found the box containing the Buzzards Bay , I was begining to think that I would never see the box again . I unpacked all the frames and the keel and dry fit all the frames, There are 3 frames that I will replace with new ones and square everything up and start building. Here are the results 

This afternoon I finished cutting all the frames , I re lofted the Transom and changed it out so that it will line up better with the Cockpit Coaming. To this Point nothing has been glued, and the new Transom is being held on with masking tape, I still have to true up all the frames and finish sanding the new frames. Here are the results

Last Night I was able to squeeze in a few hours , So I finished cutting the frames that I had laid out, ( I cut out the frames that will give me a basic shape first) I only have to make 5 more frames . Nothing has been glued together and I used a piece of masking tape to hold the Transom on (its crude but hey it works ) To this point everything has gone smoothly. Here are the results

I Started by Taking 1/8" X 4" Basswood and lofting the lines (profile ) drawing  on it. And  I am using 3/32" X 4" for the frames and started lofting them out as well , I did get a few frames cut ( I see myself going thru alot of #11 Blades) Here are the results

This morning I woke up and Deciced that I would start the Buzzards Bay 14 ftr . I was originaly planning on building Capt Nates 12 1/2 , However I cannot find the plans for it (the last time I saw them was when I was planning on a full size build) anyway, I do have the plans for the Buzzards Bay 14 ftr. wich was designed by Francis Herreshoff (son of Nathanael Herreshoff) a slightly larger version of the 12 1/2. (12 1/2  is the water line length) The Buzzards Bay has a 14 foot Waterline. I still plan on building the 12 1/2 in the future. Here is what I have so far

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 63 – Lower deck framing continued
 
A lot of repetitive work remains to complete the framing of the lower deck.  In the first picture the beam just aft of the fore mast step has been glued down and the hanging knee on the port side is being fit to shape against the ceiling planks between two of the future view port “windows”.
 

 
Fitting these hanging knees is a time consuming task.  Once they are installed under a beam, the work races forward through the easier steps of fitting lodging knees, pillars, carlings and ledges.  Carling scores in the next beam are then cut, the beam is glued down and progress grinds to a crawl as the next set of hanging knees get fitted.
 
In the next picture the headers spanning the space around the mast are being fit where a full beam is omitted. 
 

 
These are the same depth as the beams.  They fit into the scores with half-lap joints.  These headers are not true mast partners since the masts were secured only at the step and at partners on the main deck.  Half-beams are fitted between these headers and the side.  A hanging knee is being attached to one of these in the next picture.
 

 
Although the knee was shaped before the beam aft of the mast was installed, it was easier to install it on the half-beam and then install the assembly  - not much room to attach the knee with both adjacent beams installed.
 
In the next picture the end of half-beam on the other side is being fit to the frames.
 

 
It will be cut to length after the other header is set.  The next picture shows both half-beams installed.
 

 
The next beam has been glued in and lodging knee installation is catching up.
 
The next picture shows the pillar with its top knees attached being installed under that beam after the hanging knees were attached.
 

 
In the last picture, two more beams have been set.  The setting carlings and ledges is keeping pace.
 

 
This deck framing is going faster than the Naiad deck framing – as I am sure it did in the actual construction of the two ships.  Young America had fewer but larger framing members, the spacing was very regular, and the beams were one piece.  There are more knees – 8 per beam/pillar, but except for the hanging knees they are easier to fit.  Naiad's hanging knees attached to the sides of the beams were much easier to fit.
 
Now for another pair of those pesky under-beam hanging knees.
 
Ed

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
With the hull block prepared, next step is the deck planking. Key points include:
 
>>> Hatch/house coamings, bowsprit, jibboom, and anchor windlass were fabricated 1st as they control the deck planking layout
>>> House/hatch coamings were constructed with 1/2 lapped corners
>>> Anchor windlass kitbashed from Bluejacket windlass casting kit
>>> Deck planking fitted to coamings, poop bulkhead coaming, and planksheer
>>> Deck planking nibbed into margin/nibbing strake
>>> Thick plank fitted to support anchor windlass
>>> Coamings, planksheer, and poop bulkhead coaming will be removed for finishing/paint
 
Note that this sequence is somewhat different than "Newsboy" because of the built up bulwarks.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
The Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 is a 3/16" scale plank on solid scratch build. The construction sequence is similar to my "Newsboy" 1854 build. The hull was carved from basswood laminations. Key Points include:
 
>>> Laminations were glued (dark wood glue) and doweled together
>>> Deck shear and camber was carved 1st
>>> Poop deck lifts were left loose until the fore deck was complete
>>> Inverted hull was attached to a building board giving a common base for hull templates
>>> Upper hull was recessed 3/64" for hull planking (lower hull will be coppered)
>>> Stem, keel, stern post, and rudder were fitted
>>> Mounting pedestals were fitted and mounting holes drilled
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” had a length of 81’ 7”, beam of 22’ 8”, depth of 7’ 10”, and tonnage of 140 tons. Both the “Eagle” and her sistership “Arrowsic” were built in Arrowsic Island on the Kennebec River (near the present shipbuilding city of Bath, ME) in 1847 for the lumber and ice trade by builder Samuel Pattee. During the mid-19th century small schooners of this sort were widely employed in the East Coast trade; their schooner rigs an easy adaption to the prevailing westerly winds and economy in crew size.
 
The model was scratch built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) using old Model Shipways plans by William Zakambell. Additional research was conducted at the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, ME where a large scale model of the “Arrowsic” is on display. The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings. Limited commercial fittings were utilized where appropriate, and the rigging is proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks. The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” is my 3rd wooden ship model and my 1st scratch build.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder