Elia

Finally it’s painted.  Filler, sand, filler, sand and sand and sand, then paint, mask and more paint . . . finally.  Well here it is.    
 
Oh, yes.  I still need to add that gold stripe.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Druxey and David, thanks.  The only thing I could think of as I finished the deck was...thank god this isn't a frigate!
 
I deferred making any of the items that attach on to the upper deck (except for the fore and main mast partners) until the entire deck was completed.  Now it is time for some small projects which will vastly improve the monotony of the appearance of beams and scantlings.  The first thing made was the capstan step. The shape of the step varied among the Swan class ships.  In TFFM, David shows a three piece rectangular step.  Atalanta has a tear-drop shaped step.  At this point I was still psyched from finishing the deck, so I forgot to take pictures of the step fabrication.  The step is made of three pieces of wood rabbeted together.  The inner piece was 14" thick and the outer pieces were 10" thick.  The edge of the 14" thick wood was highlighted on both sides with archival ink. The top of the step is flat, stands 7" proud of the beam and is parallel to the waterline, not to the deck.  There is a hole in the middle for the capstan post.  The step is secured to the beams and carlings with bolts.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
The mizzen partner is a simple plank, in contrast to the complex structures of the fore and main partners.  The most difficult part is placing the hole in the correct location because of the rake of the mizzen mast.  I do not plan on masting and rigging Atalanta so I took the location of the opening off the plan rather than make a dummy mast.
 

 

 

I have finally finished the upper deck framing.  The first three photos show the deck before final fairing.  The last two are after everything has been sanded down.  I started with 100 grit and progressively sanded down to 400 grit.  I finished with a razor blade scraper.  There was a slight hump in beam 20 which was corrected with the sanding.
 

 

 

 

 

I live  just outside Tucson, Arizona  USA.  This is my first scratch build.  I built a mantua 1/96 scale Victory about 25 years ago.  When I retired, I moved here from Fargo, North Dakota
So far this ship has really been a learning experience.  I am embarassed to say how many times I had to redo things.  The hull was the hardest by far.  I was manually reducing all the measurements form the 1/48th scale plans I got from the Smithsonian Institute.  I have started the USS Columbus, and had a print shop reduce her 1/48th plans down to 1/72.  that build on the hull is going WAY faster and error free so far.  For now, I build my models in the bulkhead format.  I am going to do the USS United States as a plank on frame though.  I have almost 200 photos of the ship, I will post them a few at a time, at least the better ones.  I  am currently working on the ratlines.  I hate this part.  I had the whole port side done, but was not happy with it, the lines were toclose together.  I am doing the Starboard side and I am much happier with the results.  Two things I will try to remember, make the Shrouds as taut as possible, and do them BEFORE the back stays, they get in the way of my hands.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 47 – Bilge and Floor Ceiling
 
The first picture shows the 8” thick bilge ceiling being extended up the underside of the lower deck clamp.  The clamp would have been edge bolted down into these thick members.  With the clamps and frames they formed a sort of girder over the length of the hull to combat hogging.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that these 8” x 8” bilge ceiling members required some serious clamping to close their joints.  The next picture shows some remodeled clamps used to assist in this work.
 

 
In these clamps the old jaws were replaced with stronger versions.  I used the strongest wood I could find in my old scraps collection.  The dark colored jaws are black walnut and the lighter ones hickory from and old axe handle.  The walnut clamps had the ends of their jaws narrowed down to fit between the frames from the outside.  The next picture shows a pair of these being used to close up a joint.
 

 
Up near the deck clamp, soft pine wedges could be used to close the joints as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull inverted so the epoxy bolts on the outside could be sanded off – to help save my hands when working from the outside.  There are many more of these bolts to add as the bilge ceiling progresses.
 

 
The next picture shows the first few strakes of 4” thick floor ceiling installed.  The contortions from the convex to the concave hull shape made this interesting at the ends.
 

 
All of this 4” and 8” thick ceiling was of hard pine, so I am using Castello for it.  Pear is being used for all oak.  The next picture shows a strake being installed using .021" pleating pins in tight drilled holes to hold it in place when glued.
 

 
The dark area is wet from washing off glue from between the strakes.  One edge of these planks is coated with dark brown latex paint (before ripping) and dark glue has been used on that face.  Plain yellow glue was used on the frames and washed off from the outside between the frames with a wet toothbrush.  In the next picture the floor ceiling has been completed down to the limber channel.
 

 
Several stealers had to be installed so the final strake would be parallel to the keelson.  The next picture shows the limber channel.
 

 
When this picture was taken, the planking had been leveled out with rifflers and some sanding.  Bolts were then installed at the ends of each plank.  Each plank will next be treenailed at every frame.  Can’t wait.
 
 
 Ed

Tim,
 
The detail on that little structure looks fantastic. I've never worked with photo etched brass, but think it must be difficult to work with, it being so thin and fragile (appearing). You've clearly got a good technique going with it. Those details all look quite realistic and to scale. Very nice update!
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

After some sanding and a quick coat of primer it looks much better.  I admit I still have work to do on the paint to smooth out many rough spots but it isn't anything that can't be overcome!  
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

The first part I glued to the chart house was the Dead Light, no problem with this even though they are extremely small and a real very to work with.  
 

 
My next step was to assemble the side window frames.
 

 

 
I was successful attaching the starboard window at the correct height, the port window set up to quick and it was attached too low on the chart house. 
 

 
The same error happened while attaching the forward chart house windows.
 

 
As you can see the port window is out of line and needs to be reattached.
 
 
Cheers,
Tim

I have sinned!  
I've spent too much time away from the building bench!  My goal it to attach all the photo etch on the chart house today, below photo shows the marks I have marks I have made for the placement of those parts.
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

continued...

Look on the bright side, Mark: once you've solved all the problems associated with making and setting the counter timbers, you'll be able to do this in a fraction of the time on your next model! It looks as if you are well on your way now. She's looking great. And three cheers for Alvin's assistance.

Thank you, Grant, Gary, druxey and Ben. It feels like a team effort, with all of the help everyone has given on this. Ben, you can count on help with your Pegasus!
 
Mark

Wow, the discussion here is incredible?
I hope I can learn 1/10 about it with my Pegasus, help me out guys!
 
Ben

Hi everyone,
 
It is getting more interesting. I have attached a drawing based on the NMM photo of the 1760 Bellona model, highlighting where the transoms appear to be. It looks to me like the one I have labeled helm port transom does sit down on the vertical counter timbers, and then drops down to the side of the stern post. So it definitely is not on top of the post, or there would be no room for the tiller. But Gary is right that it is not aligned with the aft side of the stern post as I had originally drawn it. It appears to line up a little abaft of the rabbet in the stern post, which, if it is 10-12 inches thick, would put it right in the middle of the stern post. It either has a bridle joint, or the two halves tenon into the side of the post. Also note that the heads of the gun ports are a little lower than the helm port transom.
 
More difficult is that when I draw the helm port in this new more forward location on the stern post, the two sides are now too high to sit on the vertical counter timbers. I have got to keep playing with this in section, before everything lines up to look like the photo of the original model...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mar
 

Hi Mark
 Good drawing sir but I believe that the helm port transom would have intersected on the forward part of the stern post. Other then that sir I would say your drawing is right on.  Not one of my better views of the stern Mark but should give you at least ideal's about how I approach this on my  stern. Since these photo's, I didn't like my helm port transom and have taken it out. At the same time a few more items may come out and be replaced also. Guess items do have a way of coming back to haunt you untill you just have to change them out. Gary

Hi everyone,
 
Thanks, druxey, Gary and Ed. It is so helpful to have your expertise and critical eye looking at these reconstructions. This website supports the most remarkable community of learners. This shared detective work is almost as fun as the actual construction...
 
So, here is the latest reconstruction in light of recent insights from all of you.
 
The biggest change is information that there was likely no rabbet into a transom for the upper deck planking. To give the planking some landing, I have shown a "nailer" fayed to the fore side of the lower counter moulding. Some of the planks are going to run right into the fore side of the vertical timbers and vanish down to no thickness at the sternmost end, but it is what it is.
 
I have also shown chocks like the ones Ed shows in his book, because the lower counter planking will need something to land on at the edge of the rudder port. There may be chocks further down, but I can't visualize that yet.
 
And I am showing a rabbet where the helm port transom intersects with the top of the stern post. I don't know how I am going to cut that rabbet in the post at this point, but we'll see. Gary, do you think this is the way they likely intersected?
 
Thanks again for your outstanding help.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 

Looking at the images of the Bellona stern again, I see that there is a square transom at the upper deck level, which has to be cut to leave room for the rudder head.
 
Looking at the images pointed out to me by druxey, there are a number of 74s with curved beams around the rudder head. So here is another interpretation, with a curved joining piece fayed to the fore side of the two halves of the square transom that I see in the Bellona photos.
 
I am also showing a smaller transom to serve as a landing for the decking just fore of the vertical pieces.
 
I'll try to build it....
 
Mark
 

It's starting to take shape! There is a slight warp in one of the middle bulkheads that I couldn't straighten out. I'm not sure if it will be an issue or not? All the rest of them are square so I think it will be ok. My next step is checking the fairness. However, I was wondering if I should install the transom first? Or am i thinking to hard? 
 
 
 

 

 

Sherry,
 
Your San Felipe looks fantastic. I very much like the finish effect on the planking.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

After many days cementing these small slats to the deck I finally put the last ones on this morning and added dye where needed.  As far as I'm concerned it looks okay, not great but acceptable. Gwen, the Admiral, says it shows character.  
 
Now I have to make a decision what project I should tackle next.  Hatch hinges?  Torpedo loading gantries?  Mines?  Torpedoes?  Finishing the AA guns?
I guess it'll have to be the hinges.  This'll be slow going - - - I'll be taking my time with this.  Not an easy project  because it's all part of an afterthought.  As mentioned before, I did not plan to make certain things workable but alas, after seeing the model of the O21 I got this wild eyed idea to do something similar.
 
Okay, I took the model outside and shot a bunch of pictures in front of the garage door.  This time I put the boat on two bricks which made for better pics.  I may not post all of them here - - - just too many - - - I got carried away, again.  Well, I kinda like the model as she looks now     
Hope all yuns like them.
 

Starboard side profile
 

Top view from the bow
 

Top view of forward deck from bridge area.
 

Looking aft along the hull from the bow.
 

Looking forward along the hull from the stern.
 

Top view looking forward.
 

Looking forward directly into the stern
 

Top view if the deck looking forward.
 

Looking at the forward deck from the bridge area.
 

Aft deck view towards the aft side of the con.
 

Gwen, the Admiral, took this pic to give all y'all an idea of the size of the model.  I'm 5 feet 8 inches tall.
 
Cheers.

Since my last update I have applied one coat of wipe on poly which darkened the hull to a moderate degree. 
The starboard gun port liners are now cut, painted brown, and installed.         Two trim/molding pieces were fabricated and fixed to the edges of the lower balcony, as well as finishing the remainder of the decorative S braces between the upper and lower balcony.     More decorations were fabricated and added to the stern section.       Now to get busy and make the port side liners for a total of 92 rectangular gun port liners!    

Thank you everyone for the supportive and encouraging comments, and the "likes" It is very much appreciated.
 
Working further on the boom I made a start on the reef comb and bee blocks. the first set of reef combs did not allow for the bee blocks so started a second set the sheave will be 2 1/2 inch scale diameter
 
The first pair clamped into the small saw guide with some wedges so that i could file and sand them at the same time.
 

 
The second set started after cutting the slots first, then using the jewelers saw to fret them out.
 

 
The boom being prepared to glue on the reef comb on the port side
 

 
The come clamped and glued I will drill through the boom and the starboard side after the starboard side is glued on this will ensure that all the holes match well for the pins
 

 
Brrrr its down to -32 tonight.... in like a lion out like a lamb as the old saying goes.
 
Michael

Daniel, Mark, B.E., Nils thanks for stopping by and the kind rematks and thank you for all the "likes'
 
Nils that is a very beautiful looking hull, I shall have to have a look.
 
 
Dan I made my own here near the bottom of the page you can see how I made it. A lot of work for sure but I am reasonably pleased with the results. The simplest way produced the best rope. I did build a rope making machine here but in the end I did not like the results for the fine rope I will revisit the machine but for the time being the larger diameter that I am using I prefer the way I am making it now.
 
I now have to make some more blocks for the boom and associated lines, I can see that the blocks and shackles are going to keep me busy, but at least my newly finished little lathe that I started to build 43 years ago


will be handy now for the small diameter stuff because the Myford only goes so fast.
 

It was a lot of work but it needed to be finished, I am glad I took the time to get it done. it will make turning the small pins and shackle parts that much easier.
 
Michael
 

Today I finished tidying up the work area so that I now can work on either Skipjack or the pilot cutter now that both have their own tables. Rearranging things really does take a while it seems getting some of the model wood out of boxes and onto some additional shelving  makes it so much easier to work.
 

 

 
That done I was able to get the final gluing sorted for the new walls of the cockpit when it is good and set I will work on the top rail. Walter thought it was about time.
 

 

 
The gaff was re-threaded with some of the new rope, a fiddly job, and as I was working I kept thinking about the incredible amount of rigging on Nils' Clipper.
 
Then time to get the boom finished after some final shaping of the jaws, the holes were drilled for the strength bolts and for the slot to accommodate the plate for attaching the tack of the mainsail and the down-haul. because of the length I needed to add a support.
 

 
Once the holes were drilled I began gluing on the leather.
 

 
Then the leather was cut to allow for the wrapping.
 

 

 
after folding down the tabs and the final shaping the jaws end was given a liberal coating of Teak oil.
 

 
Left to right the new lines are the Gaff throat up-haul, peak halliard, jib shroud, gaff throat down-haul. Next I need to make the support for the boom on the mast.
 
Michael
 
 

Well Walter just took delivery of 800feet of 1/2 inch line and some 1 inch cable plus some other line for the rigging and docking he seems rather pleased now that the delivery has finally arrived, he can get on with the boom now.  The 5/8 line will be delivered tomorrow he was assured.
 

 

 
Michael