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kscadman

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Everything posted by kscadman

  1. kscadman
    For some unknown reason I cant download the rest of my pictures. Sorry
  2. kscadman
    Thomas, I totally agree with you. I've made more progress. I completed the open and closed hearts but I'm not happy with the results. I wasn't sure how to lash the cord to the hearts. I need a how to book on this one. When I examined the drawings it looked like all the hearts have double cords on them but in the picture in the instructiions look like only the open hearts had double cords.
  3. kscadman
    Work continues. I've attached the jibboom and added some paint.
  4. kscadman
    Bowsprit is finished and the cap has been installed. Test fitted the jibboom and flying jibboom.
  5. kscadman
    From what I see so far your work is very impressive! With this hobby it seems that the more work is done the more is needed to know and the more books that are bought. LOL I agree... It is so much more fun
  6. kscadman
    I'm doing the same. I think I've bought more books to build my Syren than I did for college.
  7. kscadman
    Beautiful work on your Syren!
  8. kscadman
    Work is progressing on the bowsprit. I started with the kit supplied dowel but after sanding and staining it still looked like a dark dowel rod. I noticed that the diameter was smaller than the plan drawing so I bought a new basswood dowel rod and and remade the bowsprit. I'm much happier with the results. The jibboom and flying jibboom went off without a hitch. I assembled the dolphin striker and lathed the jack staff My question is: does the bowsprit sit on top of the stem or is it cut into the stem? My angle "looks" too steep to me. Richard
  9. kscadman
    Beautiful work Jesse! I agree GS hypo cement is a godsend. I used it a lot back in my watchmaking/clockmaking days. I hope you stay safe from Florence. Richard
  10. kscadman
    Hello and thanks Thomas. Its good to be back. I still have the hammocks. I removed them for the moment. I hope your staying safe from Florence. Richard
  11. kscadman
    Jim, thank you for the compliment. Actually I altered the lift drawings in my Syren drawings and used the 18ft yawl drawings from "Anatomy of the ship book USF Essex" to make my jolly boat on the aft davits. It was quite the adventure. I show some pictures of my progess in this log.
  12. kscadman
    I've finished the ships boats and I've started on the bowsprit. I have the bowsprit tapered, and fitted and currently the stain is drying. I'm fairly sure I have the angle correct.
  13. kscadman
    Beautiful work so far Peter. Simply amazing Richard
  14. kscadman
    I agree Keith, I plan to close them Richard
  15. kscadman
    Hi Thomas, currently the port lids are open for the "test fit". I may end up closing them once I have the fender made. Richard
  16. kscadman
    I've made the gripes and installed the eyebolts to the transom. Attached are the pictures of my test "fit" of the gripes. Please give me some feed back. I'm entering unknown seas and I'd like to have some navigation from a more experienced skipper. I haven't made the fender yet and I'm curious to know if the boat resting on the port lid would be proper. Richard
  17. kscadman
    Hi Jesse, I know what you mean. I haven't found a drawing that shows how its secured to the hull or deck. I was working with it yesterday and the davits may be too long to use the gripes. Yes, you're right. I'm always looking for advice. You're farther along than me so I'll probably have some questions. Richard
  18. kscadman
    Great job bending the cap rail. Its a very hard thing to do. Very nice result Richard
  19. kscadman
    I was able to get the chocks made and installed and I finally got my long boat installed. Now I just need to tie down the sweeps and the long boat. I'm working on the gripes for the jolly boat. I've been testing to see if I can trim down the leather to scale thickness. I started by using a straight razor but I switched over to a file which seems to be working well. Thank you Thomas for your compliment. Richard
  20. kscadman
    Thanks Jesse I've been doing a lot of research, I've also made a post on the subject titled "Puddened gripes". Also in the book "Historic Ship Models" it shows some examples of hanging the boat from the stern davits. It looks like I'll have to close the aft gunport lids to make it work properly. What I haven't been able to find out is how to secure the gripes. By the way, what seizing did you use to secure your long boat? Richard
  21. kscadman
    Wow, finally! The momentous occasion has arrived for me. I've finished my long boat and now I can install them and begin the masting and rigging. I have to admit making the knees was quite the adventure. I went thru several trials before I found a way to make them. I ended up taking a piece of 3/32 x 3/32 strip wood and filed the rounded edges then I used a straight razor and cut them to size. I have my jolly boat hung from the davits so now I need to make the gripes and the fender! I have a question for the group. What seizing was used for the long boat and were the rudder and oars seized to the long boat?? Thank you all for your kind comments and likes! Patrick, thank you for your comment, as a newbie to the craft it is highly appreciated!
  22. kscadman
    Welcome from your northern neighbor in Kansas.
  23. kscadman
    Eric, I chose the Syren as my first POB ship and I'm lucky I did. The kit and instruction book is set up for a first time build. I think you will do well if you choose it. Richard
  24. kscadman
    Thanks Thomas. Does anyone have information about how the sprit step should look like? The plans and instructions are a bit vague.
  25. kscadman
    Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it. After much turkey eating I was able to get some work done on my long boat. I completed the thwarts and added a mast step. When making the windlass I had a bit of a time figuring out how to get the the cuts correct. So I decided to make a jig. I took some 3/32 brass tube and filled down one side about 1/64 which made a nice flat spot in order to glue it onto piece of wood. On the ends I used a straight razor and just glided it along the brass tubing once I made my stop cuts. It gave me nice level smooth finish. The middle section was tricky. I used a #11 blade and repeated the process but I found that it would try to cut deeper into the wood. But after 2 more attempts I managed to get a fairly good result. I used a flat diamond file to finish the diagonal cuts. Now I need to make the cap rail. The one that came with the kit was a little too short lengthwise.

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