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kscadman

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Everything posted by kscadman

  1. I'm doing the same. I think I've bought more books to build my Syren than I did for college.
  2. Work is progressing on the bowsprit. I started with the kit supplied dowel but after sanding and staining it still looked like a dark dowel rod. I noticed that the diameter was smaller than the plan drawing so I bought a new basswood dowel rod and and remade the bowsprit. I'm much happier with the results. The jibboom and flying jibboom went off without a hitch. I assembled the dolphin striker and lathed the jack staff My question is: does the bowsprit sit on top of the stem or is it cut into the stem? My angle "looks" too steep to me. Richard
  3. Beautiful work Jesse! I agree GS hypo cement is a godsend. I used it a lot back in my watchmaking/clockmaking days. I hope you stay safe from Florence. Richard
  4. Hello and thanks Thomas. Its good to be back. I still have the hammocks. I removed them for the moment. I hope your staying safe from Florence. Richard
  5. Jim, thank you for the compliment. Actually I altered the lift drawings in my Syren drawings and used the 18ft yawl drawings from "Anatomy of the ship book USF Essex" to make my jolly boat on the aft davits. It was quite the adventure. I show some pictures of my progess in this log.
  6. I've finished the ships boats and I've started on the bowsprit. I have the bowsprit tapered, and fitted and currently the stain is drying. I'm fairly sure I have the angle correct.
  7. Hi Thomas, currently the port lids are open for the "test fit". I may end up closing them once I have the fender made. Richard
  8. I've made the gripes and installed the eyebolts to the transom. Attached are the pictures of my test "fit" of the gripes. Please give me some feed back. I'm entering unknown seas and I'd like to have some navigation from a more experienced skipper. I haven't made the fender yet and I'm curious to know if the boat resting on the port lid would be proper. Richard
  9. Hi Jesse, I know what you mean. I haven't found a drawing that shows how its secured to the hull or deck. I was working with it yesterday and the davits may be too long to use the gripes. Yes, you're right. I'm always looking for advice. You're farther along than me so I'll probably have some questions. Richard
  10. Great job bending the cap rail. Its a very hard thing to do. Very nice result Richard
  11. I was able to get the chocks made and installed and I finally got my long boat installed. Now I just need to tie down the sweeps and the long boat. I'm working on the gripes for the jolly boat. I've been testing to see if I can trim down the leather to scale thickness. I started by using a straight razor but I switched over to a file which seems to be working well. Thank you Thomas for your compliment. Richard
  12. Thanks Jesse I've been doing a lot of research, I've also made a post on the subject titled "Puddened gripes". Also in the book "Historic Ship Models" it shows some examples of hanging the boat from the stern davits. It looks like I'll have to close the aft gunport lids to make it work properly. What I haven't been able to find out is how to secure the gripes. By the way, what seizing did you use to secure your long boat? Richard
  13. Wow, finally! The momentous occasion has arrived for me. I've finished my long boat and now I can install them and begin the masting and rigging. I have to admit making the knees was quite the adventure. I went thru several trials before I found a way to make them. I ended up taking a piece of 3/32 x 3/32 strip wood and filed the rounded edges then I used a straight razor and cut them to size. I have my jolly boat hung from the davits so now I need to make the gripes and the fender! I have a question for the group. What seizing was used for the long boat and were the rudder and oars seized to the long boat?? Thank you all for your kind comments and likes! Patrick, thank you for your comment, as a newbie to the craft it is highly appreciated!
  14. Welcome from your northern neighbor in Kansas.
  15. Eric, I chose the Syren as my first POB ship and I'm lucky I did. The kit and instruction book is set up for a first time build. I think you will do well if you choose it. Richard
  16. Thanks Thomas. Does anyone have information about how the sprit step should look like? The plans and instructions are a bit vague.
  17. Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it. After much turkey eating I was able to get some work done on my long boat. I completed the thwarts and added a mast step. When making the windlass I had a bit of a time figuring out how to get the the cuts correct. So I decided to make a jig. I took some 3/32 brass tube and filled down one side about 1/64 which made a nice flat spot in order to glue it onto piece of wood. On the ends I used a straight razor and just glided it along the brass tubing once I made my stop cuts. It gave me nice level smooth finish. The middle section was tricky. I used a #11 blade and repeated the process but I found that it would try to cut deeper into the wood. But after 2 more attempts I managed to get a fairly good result. I used a flat diamond file to finish the diagonal cuts. Now I need to make the cap rail. The one that came with the kit was a little too short lengthwise.
  18. I continued with the gripes for the stern jolly boat. I found some leather strapping at the local arts and crafts store. Its scale size is 6" width X 3" thickness. I discovered that I could use a straight edge razor and scrape the underside of the leather strap to thin it to a scale 1" thickness. I've been finding many ways to secure the gripes, but nothing definitive, so I may have to go with my best theory as to how it is secured. I have a question as to how to secure the davit block ropes. I've seen some where it is secured to an eyebolt on the outer side of the davit and I've seen some where the rope goes thru the davit. Any help as to which is correct?
  19. Its been a good weekend for working in the shipyard. I completed the floorboards, grates, and thwart supports. I needed to enlarge the plans so I could locate the thwarts properly so I made a PDF of part of the sheet and enlarged it to 118% which passed the "measurement" test.
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