kscadman
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Everything posted by kscadman
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She" beautiful Sjors, quite the ship to be proud of!!!- 1,616 replies
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- 4
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- caldercraft
- agamemnon
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Your Morgan looks great John!!
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Great work Rich, I'll being following with great interest.
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- 3
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- model shipways
- syren
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I was able to get that kit from the local hobby shop. It was in their store for a couple of years and got it at a discount. It is a Amati/Modelshipways collaborated kit. Mainly Amati.
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Tom, thank you for the tip. I used the isopropyl alcohol and I was able to remove all the planks. One plank did split toward the bow. Now its time for clean up and repair. Richard
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I'm halfway thru the planking and it hasn't been without its trials and tribulations. I was using the head post template but for some reason (me, of course) I didn't get the garboard and the plank next to it in the proper place. But I corrected this with the third plank. I tried to remove the garboard and second plank but I've been using carpenters glue since its stainable. Unfortunately its also WATERPROOF so I couldn't remove the planks and re-position them. (Hello wood filler) The good part is that my planks are aligning with the marks on the molds. Richard
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Gahm, I'm starting to lean toward using this technique on my Syren long boat. I've been sanding on the lifts for what seems forever and it doesn't seem like I've made much progress. Richard
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I formed a single plank to the bulkheads then I cut them into sections and glued them to the bulkheads. The scale lengths were about 30'-35'. Richard
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I third the recommendation. I'm a true believer in Blacken-it. I use it instead of paint. Richard
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Hi Keith, great work on the planking so far. I know what you mean about using filler. The second planking gives you the opportunity to accomplish it. Richard
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I would like to have a copy if its ok with you. thank you for the offer. Richard
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Superb work Augie! And happy anniversary! She's got a beautiful deck now. Great choice with the pear. Can't wait to see it finished. Richard
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- confederacy
- Model Shipways
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Well the 1st garboard is installed and I'm not exactly happy with it. I have a dip in the fairing at mold #7 which you can see in picture 6. Not to sure what to do about it. I'm going to go ahead and work on the starboard garboard and see how fair it is after it dries. Richard
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Keith - Thank you for the heads up. I took a measurement from the hull planking profile on the drawings and looked a the pics from the instructions and some build logs so hopefully I have it right. I think I may spot glue them just enough to hold while I form the second plank. Richard
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Beautiful work ChrisLBren!! Have you looked into the model shipways pedestals? They have wood screws and work really well. I used them on my Syren. I did pre-drill the holes but it wasn't too much trouble. Richard
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Yes, The wood is being nice to me. Its just that I'm not sure if the sheer plank and the transom should be flush or if some sanding room is designed into the plank. Richard
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The first of the planking has begun! I have my sheer planks molded to the frames. So tonight I'm going to work on the garboards. I did find one thing curions about the kit. I glued the sheer tabs on to the molds correctly, but when I push the sheer planks flush with them the sheer planks wont line up with the planking marks on the molds. I think I should go ahead and follow the planking marks and not worry about the sheer tabs. Also when the planks are flush with the sheer tabs the planks are offset from the transom by 3/32 on each side. In pictures 4 & 5 you can see the planking lines and the distance from (top) of transom and (top) of sheer plank. Has anyone else run into this condition? Richard
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Brilliant! Did you design it? If you did you need to patent it. I know I could of used it when I planked my Syren. Richard
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Beautiful work Tom. I'm curious about the spreadsheet. Does it give you a total length along the circumference of the bulkhead(s)? Richard
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Thank you Tom & esion. Tom - last night I did as you did and sanded with the frames. I also re-read the instructions and there's 1 sentence about sanding with the frames. (duh on my part). I laid my batten along the plank lines as I went. The only part I don't like is I have a slight gap on the port side with mold #3 (the first one that doesn't have a frame) I've got a 1/64 to 1/32 gap but I think I should be ok with it since the frame will be canted. esion - I'll keep the PMs in mind should I run into any troubles. I projected the planking lines to the frames so I'll find out tonight how well I did. I'm going to try to get the first garboard bent & fitted. Richard
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Thank you Tom! The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is how to do the final fairing without breaking the spot glue. I've tried to sand going across the frames but I've had a couple break loose on me. I'm thinking about trying to go with the frames. Any suggestions? Richard
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There are a couple of build logs for the Scotland so you could gain some knowledge from those builds. There are also tutorials that will help get you started. They are located in the shop notes, ship modeling tip, techniques and research section. I working on my first one as well so I understand how daunting it may seem, but once you begin and start learning then it will get easier. Richard
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David Yes, the planks are laser cut. According to the instructions they are a little wider and are to be sanded down to the proper width. There are line off marks on the molds that are projected to the outer edges of the frames. The planks are supposed to be sanded down to those widths. You can see them on the third mold from the transom. Richard
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Hammocks are progressing. I'm really starting to believe the expert in expert modeler means you've learned how to make a jig for the task at hand. lol. Attached is a picture of the jig I made for rolling and tying hammocks
- 227 replies
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- 8
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- syren
- model shipways
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I successfully finished bending and installing the frames. Now just a little bit of fairing to get it right. Also I stained all my planks, so the prep work is done. Richard
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