Jeronimo

Hello, and many thank for your kind comments and likes
 
today I build the wardroom lights. 

And I hope that they may fit. That will I see tomorrow

Hello,
these windows now are installed and I'm pleased with the result. For tomorrow there are some smaller things to do like repainting some parts, and then are the other windows to build. They are a little easier to build I hope.


JJ, it is't so hard to build the windows this way. I glued the battens to a 0,3 mm acrylic pane with acrylic thinner, solvent. After all has hardened and is fast, I saw and grind the outer battens to the right shape, so that they fit into the frame. At the next picture you see the steps. The brush is to get the thinner under the battens. Don't press too hard, only lightly so that you not press the thinner out and the wood flat at the underside. 

And this is the thinner, solvent I use.

 

I will now go in a little more detail on the Russian lion I have chosen for my lion project.
This lion has differences from the other predators of this company. In addition to the unusual proportions, what immediately catches the eye is that this lion is not alone. He is surrounded by an entire company. And today I will pay attention to who is depicted next to the main character. For what reason these companions are there and what kind of story they are "telling". It's going to be interesting.
And before I start developing this topic I want to give a huge thank you to the people who helped me during the work. I learned a lot thanks to the hints and help. And this material is entirely compiled by one of the participants of Russian language community of ship modelers, who publishes his posts under the nickname Antiq. He is a wonderful person, a great artist. And also a very deep researcher of many topics related to wooden shipbuilding. 
Now let's go step by step through each character on this multi-figure composition. I'll just add a translation, all the laurels of research rightfully belong to Antiq.
 

 
Crown. Definitely not a wreath!!!
The circumference is decorated with two edges. The upper one is wavy, with alternating heraldic signs on the tops, such as an acanthus leaf (not sure) and a cross of four pearls.
The lower edging is straight.
The upper part is probably not finished intentionally by the master.

To this translation I will allow to add a small explanation. The thing is that on the Russian forum there was a very heated discussion about the headdress of this lion, as well as other Russian lions. Since the crown is a heraldic attribute and each country has its own peculiarities, there were also questions about how to interpret the semi-distinct details of the carving. For example, on some lions the crowns very much resemble British crowns. And on this lion we can talk about a crown and a wreath. This has caused a lot of opinions.
 
 
 

 
A czar. King
Just a czar.
 
 
 


Putti. Messenger, Messenger.
A child with wings.
With his right hand the angel holds the crown, with his left hand rests on a club. This is important!!!
The king can be both a tyrant and an angel of kindness, everything is accepted with gratitude, based on the idea that he is a Messenger and anointed of God. If he is good - it is a favor from God, cruel - punishment from him!
 
 
 
 


Bearded man wearing a loincloth and carrying a club.
Hercules/Hercules
Mortal demigod.
Familiar, companion of a lion.
The presence of a familiar clarifies the properties and qualities of the lion.
Triumphantly he raises his club above his head, on which rests the hand of the messenger - with God's help
Under his feet is a defeated animal with a number of heads and characteristic notches on the body.
 
 
 
 

 
A defeated animal
Cerberus or Hydra
Personally, I am inclined to the second option, as several heads are preserved on the right side, and they have a beak-shaped end.
Also the characteristic notches on the whole body of the bestiary can mean a snake body.
 
 
 
 
 
 


Detail with whorls
 
 
 

to be continued

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

Hello modelingfriends,
 
thank you very much for the kind comments and likes.
Remaining frames were installed the inside was straightened and sanded.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Just some random comments:
 
If you think the 64 gun hull is large, you should try the 118 gun Commerce de Marseille?  Even at 1:60 it is a contest for who will get the work room!
 
You are very fortunate in being able to source Sorbus torminalis.  The wood looks excellent,
 
I have tried many tools in a search for a way to shape the inside of the framing. 
The angle grinder that you show is one that works fairly well for me.
I wish I could find a slim electric grinder that is 45/120 degrees  as it would make getting inside easier - but I only find compressed air tools with that feature..
 
The one that I find to be more useful is this one:
https://www.kaleas.de/en/modeling-tinker/minitool/140/minitool-right-angle-grinder
The disk that  comes with it is a bit wide.  There is a chuck accessory that allows for disks with smaller diameters.  The problem is that it extends the cutting surface out from the motor.  The motor itself is about the size of my hand, so if I can get my hand inside, I can get the grinder inside.
 
I do not know the metric equivalents  but I am quite pleased to have a drum sander to shape the frames.
A quality 1/3 HP TEFC motor with a 1/2 inch shaft and ~1700 rpm is key .  To mount it so that the shaft is vertical, all that is needed is a firm base with big rubber sound/vibration absorbing feet and a sort of Erector Set type steel angle pieces with holes for threaded bolts.  
 
A box or table is not needed.  Almost nothing on a frame is 90 degrees, so a table just gets in the way.  
I have two problems with commercial oscillating spindle sanders: 
1) The drum mounts are usually proprietary - you can only use their drums
2)  The mounts are not a simple 1/2 inch rod.  With a simple 1/2 inch rod, other things can be mounted - a chuck that can hold burrs and cutters - any other cutting tool that has a 1/2 inch mount,  buffing pads, grinding wheels.
 
It is easy to get drums with a variety of diameters that will fit directly on a 1/2 inch shaft.  I prefer sleeveless drums,  It is easy to replace the cutting material using sandpaper sheets.  I worry about the tightening to secure a sanding sleeve to a rubber drum getting the drum out of round.
I also have a drum that is 3 inches diameter and 6 inches tall.  The extra height is useful for large frames.
 
TEFC - the drums generate much sawdust.  An enclosed motor with its own cooling fan protects the motor.  I also have a large piece of cardboard with a 1/2" hole in its center sitting on the motor where the shaft comes out - It directs the sawdust away from the motor.
 
It is important to have a lot of air flow around the motor.  If used for very long, it gets hot.
 
My motor is CW/CCW.  I wired a drum switch so that the rotation can be reversed at will.  I had to have a tech person at the motor manufacturer email me the wiring diagram - It is a lot more complicated than connecting 3 wires.

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Figurehead, 64 Gun Ship, Scale 1/48
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

52 Frames provisionally aligned on the keel, not yet straightened.
I will build the remaining frames including the transom separately
and only then place them on the keel.
After all this fixed on the keel, I will first straighten ans sand the inside.
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello modeling friends.
The model is planed according to the plan drawings of Gerard Delacroix, Le Fleuron 1729.
Scale: 1/60, Wood: Elsbeere (Sorbus torminalis).
I will build the model as "La Charpente", as shown in picture 0.01.
i.e. only the carpentry / joinnery,
without interior fittings and carving of the exterior.
 
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Very nice framing work!

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

This pear tree is beautiful, good luck. (The back part for later?)