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Everything posted by JohnB40

  1. Thank you all for your replies on experiences and tips using Fiebings leather dye. The outer quarter deck planking supplied in the Unicorn kit came dyed/stained black and I liked how the grain looked when finished with poly,as apposed to painting them. I will use the advice given and dye all wood off the model and scrape or mask any area where adhesion is needed. I'll also keep my better half happy and do all dyeing in the garage
  2. I am about to start work on the plank-sheer and railings for the quarter deck,which I would like to finish black in colour. I am thinking about using dye instead of paint for this purpose. I have purchased some Fiebing's black leather dye and wonder if anyone who has used this product can advise on their experience using it. Some of my concerns are..... Adhesion after dying process with both CA and PVA glues. Sanding after dying process Bleeding into adjoining areas If Poly finish can be used on dyed wood. Any thoughts and tips in addition to the above would be appreciated.
  3. Hello Ian, Once again,outstanding research and lovely work on the bell and belfry. I am glad I have not yet assembled mine,as I would have to scrap it and start again,blatantly copying yours (which I will). Your mock-up of the capstan looks in proper perspective judging from the NMM models. I was surprised at how large they were (and how undersized Corel's supplied one is). I look forward to your tutorial on your capstan construction as mine is not yet glued down and can be binned easily. Cheers,
  4. Hi Ian, Once again amazing construction,with great plans and tutorial for the elm tree pumps. I am now not sure whether the chain pump or the elm tree pump (or both) is correct for a 5th rate of the Unicorn's time frame. The NMM's model #SLR0496;Warship (1757);5th Rate shows elm tree pumps in the waist. I hope you and yours have an enjoyable bank holiday. John
  5. Wonderful work Ian. I look at your photos,then at my Unicorn and realize how tiny the scale is.......My mind is blown......Must have a nap to recover John
  6. Really beautiful construction work you have done,the painting is outstanding. I am looking forward to future updates. John
  7. I have a pair of General Tools visor magnifiers that I have been using for about 20 years now,I can't work without them. I have been thinking about a new pair of DA-3 Optivisors with the 1.75X at 14" .Has anyone used a pair of these? It seems about the distance I am working at a lot of the time and I would like a over all larger sized view. I have to wear glasses under them for eye correction. Any feedback would be appreciated. The old pair are unmarked,but I think they are 2X at 10" John
  8. Ian, Well done on the construction progress,lovely work. It was getting kind of lonely in the Unicorn world,glad you and your log are back.. I am holding off mounting and rigging the waist guns until I have more or less finished the quarter deck. I find the small scale of the guns tackle hard to make looking realistic with blocks that "look right" and will have to think some more about how to approach it. Your set-up look great,I guess I will have to get stronger Optivisors and try harder. I just rigged breaching ropes on the guns under the quarter deck,which are not visible through through
  9. Hi Mike, Very nice work on the first planking. It will be a fine foundation for the 2nd plank layer. I find it very satisfying stage of construction when you can finally see the hull shape in 3D. John
  10. Greetings all, Thanks for the replies and likes. I went back over the photos from the NMM last night and have decided on open railings on the quarter deck. I will plank the bulwarks up to the level of the outer (black) planks,this will give the top of this a height of 8mm from the deck,which is an approximate scale height of 2 feet.This will be capped by the plank-sheer. From there up will be stanchion and railing construction. This should allow enough clearance for the muzzles of the guns to clear the plank-sheer,if not,at the most,a very shallow cut-out radius will be needed on the p
  11. A Happy New Year to all, Back to the log after some more progress on the Unicorn,photographed with a new unbelievably expensive Canon replacement battery in the camera. I decided not to use the kit supplied deck precut part. It was a one piece configuration with the fore,gangway/plank and quarter deck on the same level. This would have been fine on a frigate of a later period with a spar deck,but not on an mid 18th century 5th rate. I used 1/16" spruce ply and cut a new quarter deck. I followed Ian's ideas in his log and NMM's model illustrations for the Lowestoft,the Guadeloupe, and
  12. Greetings to all, I've finally finished the 32 cannons for my Unicorn and I am ready to attach and rig 24 of them to the gun deck. I have decided to display them in the run out/firing position,with the carriages hard up against the bulwarks. I have been mulling this over and I would appreciate opinions on the following........ On a frigate,should all the guns be perpendicular to the keel/center line,or follow the curvature of the bulwarks? This dosen't really make much of a difference except at the foremost and two rearmost gun ports. Once the fore and quarter decks are fitted it is to
  13. Hi Ian, The gun tackle looks great. I think you are correct that the tackle rings on the bulwarks are too high and would indeed interfere with the sponging out of the barrel and reloading. Logically they would be at about the same level,but 1-2 feet further apart.......Low enough to step over,but not hindering access to the muzzle. I remember reading that to lower casualties with gun crews in close action,they would close the gun port lids whilst reloading,using mops and ram rods with heavy flexible rope shafts to overcome the confined space in front of the muzzle. The lid was raised as th
  14. Hi Ian, All the recent Unicorn upgrades are great. I appreciate the detail all the more when I'm sat at my work table after viewing them and see in person just how small items such as the guns are. The rivet press and dies are a nice piece of kit. I know it doesn't not pertain to the forum,but I would love to see some examples of your railway engines. John
  15. Hi Ian, I'm looking forward to your ideas on gun rigging......Timely I might add,as I have been messing about with the ships guns for about 3 weeks now. All gun bits are ready for finial assembly,but I find it impossible to make the decision on whether to paint the carriages or not. Have you thought about separating the cord strands just enough to poke the cascabel through with 2 strands above and one below,then use a dab of PVA either side to secure in place? . My mind also nearly melted before I could make a start on drilling the bowsprit socket....Turned out OK,centered and at the c
  16. Hi Mike, I think this is a great project you have started. You will be constructing a very unique example of a historically accurate frigate....I look forward to your progress in your log. The casabel is indeed forward on the carriage than on most guns that I have seen,usually it just over hangs the carriage,but at 1:75 scale,hidden as they are,It isn't noticeable. John
  17. Mike, I was so into the Lyme plans I forgot to say what a fine example of model ship construction your Badger is......Very pleasing indeed to look at. Regarding your question about the quarter deck port holes....I really do not like the solid bulwark without a rail above it,it just seems too low without it. I will have to wait until the quarter deck is in place to decide what I will do. I like the look of the Lyme arrangement of semi circular ports with railing....Who really knows how it was on the Unicorn. One of the Lyme side elevation views looks like it shows a solid bulwark with rou
  18. Hi Mike, Thanks you for posting the plans for the Lyme,the detail is brilliant. I will use them to pattern the quarter deck on my Unilyme,which will be my next area of construction after I have completed the deck guns. With the exception of the solid bulwarks,I believe the layout of the quarter deck is as close as we can get to a frigate of the period and details such as the tiller/wheel mechanics and position are spot-on. Imagine the lost motion there would be in the steering tackle if the ships wheel was positioned forward of the mizzen mast as Corel depicts it. How large are the pla
  19. I intend to use some #0 x 3/8" wood screws I purchased to secure the gun carriages to the deck on my 1:75 scale Unicorn for all the deck guns that will be inaccessible once the quarter deck is in situ. These micro screws will be out of sight on the mounted guns. I am even considering drilling the underside of the barrels and inserting a brass pin to securing them to the carriage. If any of these guns break loose,whilst further work proceeds,they would be nigh on impossible to reattach without making a complete mess working through the 10 x 10mm gun ports. John
  20. Hi Mike, Thanks for your input on the bowsprit. I also read Ian's post,but like you didn't understand the implications of it until I started work in the stem area. I really don't have any choice on the placement of the bowsprit.... As Ian pointed out anything other than #1 will make the 'bowsprit sit too high'. To change that would mean altering the 30 degree angle,which would make it look odd. Thank you for the pictures of the models,as I can see in them,especially the second and third which do seem to have the bowsprit positioned going through the deck just before the bulkhead. I re
  21. Greetings to all, Before any further work on the hull I want to drill the hole for the bowsprit to pass through the forecastle/beak head deck. I should have thought about it and addressed this like Mike did at the bulkhead assembly stage. Once again it seems that every different plan or ship model I look at has a different location shown. Below is a rough side elevation of the three possibilities I have seen... Corel's plans appear to place it as in #1 Chapman's plans seem to point to both #2 and # 3,I find it hard to tell (maybe in the middle?) Any opinions of where the bows
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