JohnB40

Really beautiful construction work you have done,the painting is outstanding. I am looking forward to future updates. John

I have a pair of General Tools visor magnifiers that I have been using for about 20 years now,I can't work without them. I have been thinking about a new pair of DA-3 Optivisors with the 1.75X at 14" .Has anyone used a pair of these? It seems about the distance I am working at a lot of the time and I would like a over all larger sized view. I have to wear glasses under them for eye correction. Any feedback would be appreciated. The old pair are unmarked,but I think they are 2X at 10" John

Ian, Well done on the construction progress,lovely work. It was getting kind of lonely in the Unicorn world,glad you and your log are back.. I am holding off mounting and rigging the waist guns until I have more or less finished the quarter deck. I find the small scale of the guns tackle hard to make looking realistic with blocks that "look right" and will have to think some more about how to approach it. Your set-up look great,I guess I will have to get stronger Optivisors and try harder. I just rigged breaching ropes on the guns under the quarter deck,which are not visible through through the ports. Hopefully by the time I finish the waist guns I will have had enough practice to be able to make the ones on the quarter deck look presentable. The stove looks great in place,as Grant said it is a shame to hide its detail from view. I look forward to updates. John

Hi Mike, Very nice work on the first planking. It will be a fine foundation for the 2nd plank layer. I find it very satisfying stage of construction when you can finally see the hull shape in 3D. John

Greetings all, Thanks for the replies and likes. I went back over the photos from the NMM last night and have decided on open railings on the quarter deck. I will plank the bulwarks up to the level of the outer (black) planks,this will give the top of this a height of 8mm from the deck,which is an approximate scale height of 2 feet.This will be capped by the plank-sheer. From there up will be stanchion and railing construction. This should allow enough clearance for the muzzles of the guns to clear the plank-sheer,if not,at the most,a very shallow cut-out radius will be needed on the plank-sheer. I also want to fit swivel gun pedestals on the quarter deck. Peter brought up the idea of hammock cranes and whether they were appropriate for this time period. Some of the models from this period in the NMM do show having them on the quarter deck,so I will add them. Regards, John

A Happy New Year to all, Back to the log after some more progress on the Unicorn,photographed with a new unbelievably expensive Canon replacement battery in the camera. I decided not to use the kit supplied deck precut part. It was a one piece configuration with the fore,gangway/plank and quarter deck on the same level. This would have been fine on a frigate of a later period with a spar deck,but not on an mid 18th century 5th rate. I used 1/16" spruce ply and cut a new quarter deck. I followed Ian's ideas in his log and NMM's model illustrations for the Lowestoft,the Guadeloupe, and the Richmond and Amazon class Frigates. I also raised the deck so there is 28mm head room between the gun and quarter deck. One problem is that the gun deck was finished about 10 years ago and the finish has yellowed through age. I hope it won't be so noticeable once the gangways,guns,ships boats etc are in place. I assembed the gun deck cannons and attached the ones under the quarter deck using CA glue and 1.5mm Dia.brass rod cut to 10mm length passing through the carriage and through the deck. I only rigged the guns with the breaching rope as they can't be seen in there. When it comes time to rig the guns on the quarter deck and in the waist I will have to find a way to rig the running out tackle without it looking like a tangled mess. I find the size of the rope and blocks in 1/75th scale really hard to work with because of my old eyes. I might try very thin brass wire painted rope colour to see if I can find a realistic substitute. The companion way,gratings,coamings and capstan were also a composite of Ian's and NMM examples. The capstan is a bit of a smaller scale than it should be and the crew would disappear down the stairs as they passed by turning the capstan.The model of the Amazon class frigate in the NMM is shown in the same configuration,but has hatch doors which shut flush with the coamings. I will add these when I fit the stanchions around the companion way. In the waist I cut down the bulkhead extensions Corel used to support the deck. I have not decided how to finish these off,but I am thinking along the lines of trimming them down more and making shot racks. The bulwarks have been planked and I am fabricating the gangway/plank knees which will be glued in the non painted strips. I will fit gangways with stairs leading down to the gun deck,with gangplanks connecting them to the forecastle. What to do about the bulwarks on the quarter deck is still open. I don't know if I will go with Corel's original design of solid with round gun ports,or a more open version using stanchions and railings (or a combination of both). This will be the next area of construction as I intend to finish the quarter deck and work my way forward to the stem.

Greetings to all, I've finally finished the 32 cannons for my Unicorn and I am ready to attach and rig 24 of them to the gun deck. I have decided to display them in the run out/firing position,with the carriages hard up against the bulwarks. I have been mulling this over and I would appreciate opinions on the following........ On a frigate,should all the guns be perpendicular to the keel/center line,or follow the curvature of the bulwarks? This dosen't really make much of a difference except at the foremost and two rearmost gun ports. Once the fore and quarter decks are fitted it is too late to change. John

Hi Ian, The gun tackle looks great. I think you are correct that the tackle rings on the bulwarks are too high and would indeed interfere with the sponging out of the barrel and reloading. Logically they would be at about the same level,but 1-2 feet further apart.......Low enough to step over,but not hindering access to the muzzle. I remember reading that to lower casualties with gun crews in close action,they would close the gun port lids whilst reloading,using mops and ram rods with heavy flexible rope shafts to overcome the confined space in front of the muzzle. The lid was raised as the gun was run out for firing. Your locos are a pleasure to view. Hard to believe now that steam locos were an everyday sight until I was about 12,still think of them with a lot of nostalgia. John

Hi Ian, All the recent Unicorn upgrades are great. I appreciate the detail all the more when I'm sat at my work table after viewing them and see in person just how small items such as the guns are. The rivet press and dies are a nice piece of kit. I know it doesn't not pertain to the forum,but I would love to see some examples of your railway engines. John

Hi Ian, I'm looking forward to your ideas on gun rigging......Timely I might add,as I have been messing about with the ships guns for about 3 weeks now. All gun bits are ready for finial assembly,but I find it impossible to make the decision on whether to paint the carriages or not. Have you thought about separating the cord strands just enough to poke the cascabel through with 2 strands above and one below,then use a dab of PVA either side to secure in place? . My mind also nearly melted before I could make a start on drilling the bowsprit socket....Turned out OK,centered and at the correct angle,but I had to have a nap afterwards to recover from the strain. I hope you have had a good summer John

Hi Mike, I think this is a great project you have started. You will be constructing a very unique example of a historically accurate frigate....I look forward to your progress in your log. The casabel is indeed forward on the carriage than on most guns that I have seen,usually it just over hangs the carriage,but at 1:75 scale,hidden as they are,It isn't noticeable. John

Mike, I was so into the Lyme plans I forgot to say what a fine example of model ship construction your Badger is......Very pleasing indeed to look at. Regarding your question about the quarter deck port holes....I really do not like the solid bulwark without a rail above it,it just seems too low without it. I will have to wait until the quarter deck is in place to decide what I will do. I like the look of the Lyme arrangement of semi circular ports with railing....Who really knows how it was on the Unicorn. One of the Lyme side elevation views looks like it shows a solid bulwark with round ports,but in reality it is just an incomplete view,showing the outline of the railings.....Maybe that is what we are looking at in the Chapman's Unicorn drawing? I am going to go with what ever pleases me. In your case,if you want a historically accurately frigate from this time period,you will have to go with the Lyme. You have accurate plans for that ship,the Unicorn will always be a certain amount guess work and artistic licence Ian, Welcome back,I hope you had a nice holiday. Regards John

Hi Mike, Thanks you for posting the plans for the Lyme,the detail is brilliant. I will use them to pattern the quarter deck on my Unilyme,which will be my next area of construction after I have completed the deck guns. With the exception of the solid bulwarks,I believe the layout of the quarter deck is as close as we can get to a frigate of the period and details such as the tiller/wheel mechanics and position are spot-on. Imagine the lost motion there would be in the steering tackle if the ships wheel was positioned forward of the mizzen mast as Corel depicts it. How large are the plans dimensions? John

I intend to use some #0 x 3/8" wood screws I purchased to secure the gun carriages to the deck on my 1:75 scale Unicorn for all the deck guns that will be inaccessible once the quarter deck is in situ. These micro screws will be out of sight on the mounted guns. I am even considering drilling the underside of the barrels and inserting a brass pin to securing them to the carriage. If any of these guns break loose,whilst further work proceeds,they would be nigh on impossible to reattach without making a complete mess working through the 10 x 10mm gun ports. John

Hi Mike, Thanks for your input on the bowsprit. I also read Ian's post,but like you didn't understand the implications of it until I started work in the stem area. I really don't have any choice on the placement of the bowsprit.... As Ian pointed out anything other than #1 will make the 'bowsprit sit too high'. To change that would mean altering the 30 degree angle,which would make it look odd. Thank you for the pictures of the models,as I can see in them,especially the second and third which do seem to have the bowsprit positioned going through the deck just before the bulkhead. I really like how the railings and quarter deck gun positions are constructed on second frigate in your post #118,I think this will be the style I will use. In fact I will use this also as a pattern on how to construct the quarter deck and forecastle,I will add gangways. Do you know the name and time period of this frigate? I have shifted the height of the quarter deck up and now the deck is about right in relation to the great cabin. I have ordered some 1/16" ply which I will use for the new fore and quarter decks. In the mean time I will get on with the ordnance. I also going to shift the foremast forward. I am looking forward to your comments and ideas when you have had time to review the Lyme plans.....I think we will all end up with something resembling His Majesty's Frigate "Unilyme" John

Thanks Ian, It is so obvious once it is pointed out John

Greetings to all, Before any further work on the hull I want to drill the hole for the bowsprit to pass through the forecastle/beak head deck. I should have thought about it and addressed this like Mike did at the bulkhead assembly stage. Once again it seems that every different plan or ship model I look at has a different location shown. Below is a rough side elevation of the three possibilities I have seen... Corel's plans appear to place it as in #1 Chapman's plans seem to point to both #2 and # 3,I find it hard to tell (maybe in the middle?) Any opinions of where the bowsprit should be in relation to the vertical front of the forecastle and the bow deck on the Unicorn or any other beak head frigate would be appreciated. Thanks again for the schedules you emailed Ian. I'm glad the unicorn now has its defense mechanism back in place. John

Hi Ian & Mike, Thank you for your feedback and information,which cleared a path to see the way forward. Mike,I'm afraid it is passed the point for alternating the position of the transom/galleries on the hull,they are epoxied in place. I would end up having to re plank the whole stern and rear upper works of the hull. The answer lies in raising the quarter deck,so that it is 30mm between the decks...This will give me a rise of 5mm from its present height at the waist. I will still have to sweep the aft end of the deck up,but this will raise it to where the cabin ceiling would be without looking odd. This will also shorten the height of the solid bulwarks,so all the quarter deck gun portholes will end up being close to semi circles. I will cap this with a uprights and railings extending all the way aft to the transom. This will also give the appearance of lowering the windows in relation to the top of hull. I will use Dan Vidas' amazing construction of the gangways on his Vulture as an example for finishing the quarter deck step up and gangways. I also would like to cut bulkhead #16 down in height so the quarter deck runs straight to bulkhead #17,eliminating the flag lockers. I will have to see if this is possible as I want to place the tiller and tackle in view on the quarter deck. Thanks for talking me off the ledge.....This model might not end up exactly historically accurate but it will be a lot better than Corel's vision of it. John

Hi Ian and Mike, I have been sat at my work table for quite a while trying different crude mock-ups on the alteration to the quarter deck on my Unicorn....Now my brain is pudding. The only way that looks pleasing to the eye by having the correct height in relation to the windows/great cabin ceiling is to cut the quarter deck as suggested,(by the main mast as in Ian's waist mod) and raise the height of it off the gun deck,sweeping even higher at the stern. I have a couple of questions I hope you both can help me with. I know you have discussed the heights of the fore and quarter decks in one post,but I can't seem to find it. I was reading your posts Ian,and you made a reference to not being able to construct the step up from the gangways to the quarter deck (and if there is one,the foredeck)? .... What height of such a step-up do you think would be? How high would you estimate the quarter deck should be off the gun deck to be in the models scale of 1:75? I am measuring this at just under 6' in Corel's plans,is this about right? I am working on the assumption that the above scale is 4mm to 1ft,is this correct? How high would you think the foredeck would be off the gun deck? I saw on one of latest posts on Mike's log the picture of the Lowestoft...I think this is really close to how I think the Unicorn would look,especially the upper works with the open bulwarks and quarter deck gun port framing. Maybe the Lyme is closer,but with old my eyes I can't make out much,if any detail in the plans Mike supplied. If there were solid bulwarks,I think they would still be topped with a railing I also believe the Unicorn would have had the tiller on the quarter deck as shown on the second side elevation drawing in Mikes post # 149. John

Mike, You Idea for raising the quarterdeck using the walnut uprights after the first planking will work very well. You will have to be careful once you remove the plywood uprights as the single planked bulwarks will not have any additional support until the outer hull and inner bulwark planks are in place and as such will be susceptible to damage from handling. In fact I would think about waiting to cut out off the ply uprights until after you have second planked the area above the gunports,which will also give you a reference point of where the planks should be fitted from As to painting,I have always painted the bulwarks red in all my models,especially the lower decks,as I think it makes them stand out as opposed to being a nondescript background. The gun carriages are another matter which I have been mulling over for about a year now and have still yet to make a decision on,I am leaning towards leaving the in the natural walnut. John

Hi Mike, I think the carefully thought out alterations you have set out in your latest posts will greatly enhance your build,if I was not so far along with my build I gladly copy your ideas exactly. Ian is spot on regarding your eyes being drawn to the companion way and false deck below. After seeing your deck plan,I am thinking I might construct a prefab companion way similar to Ian's and drop it in place,the stairs/ladder leading down into darkness. Whether you chose to build as the Unicorn or Lyme is a personal choice....One I would procrastinate about indefinitely. I also wish I had the foresight to drill the hole in the beak for the bowsprit at the bulkhead construction phase,the correct alignment is so much easier at that stage. I look forward to your plans for waist area....... My old eyes have a hard job reading the Lyme plans. John

Greetings to all, Back working on the Unicorn and I have just about finished the stern. I ended up rejecting the strange white metal blobs topped with melted crowns that came with the kit as the gallery roofs.There was no way I could see how they could be made to work....The opposite sides were even different shapes and sizes. I made new ones as best I could........ The bottom of the galleries were then fitted,completing the gallery/transom area of the stern. ... Also thanks to viewing Ian's latest fine metal working skills I made a spectacle plate for the rudder. I don't have Ian's patience,so luckily I found some 1mm link chain on ebay. As I said in a previous post I intend to use a raised false deck from the lockers to just about where #15 bulkhead is,to a height of where the cabin ceiling would be in relation to the the windows (about 4mm). Ian discussed this earlier and thought it would interfere with the deck furniture,I have thought about it and think I can make it work . I will place the skylight on the false deck and move the ships wheel rearward to just in front of the false deck,where the pump is in the plans. The pump and shot holder can be placed on another part of the deck. There would still be room to work the rear quarter deck guns and their tackle. I will have to do a mock-up with the deck temporarily in place to see how it looks. I could even go a little higher with the deck to near the height of the bulwarks and incorporate a covered tiller........ Failing this I will have to raise the whole quarter deck which seems to open up another massive sized can of worms..........I want to send this ship down river to the Ordnance Dock. John

Hi Ian, The rudder and chains look really good....Thanks for the baton idea for hanging the chains. John

Hi Mike, I know how you feel regarding the kit,I too shelved it for a while for the same reason. However,I have rethought about it and decided I can construct a nice display model of a 18th century frigate,albeit with some inaccuracies. I am going to approach future construction with this in mind. As you saw in my build log I'm working on the transom/galleries. The windows are too high in relation to the deck,my way of rectifying will be to use a false deck a few mm higher than the main deck from the lockers forward to where I figure the great cabin would end and live with it. I paid too much for this kit to abandon it now......Have you priced it lately? I think with the new equipment you have recently purchased,your experience on the Badger and with scratch building alterations,your skill can make the kit into a very fine model. We all might of been happier with the kit if we hadn't seen Chapman's drawings. John