JohnB40
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Everything posted by JohnB40
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Well done Mike,that is some outstanding modeling work there.The finished destroyer is miniature masterpiece. I would have had trouble just seeing the parts,even with Optivisors with the highest magnification. John- 179 replies
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Your Confederacy is looking great,Peter. John
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Paint or blackening
JohnB40 replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I find with photo etch parts,the resist used to protect the area not to be etched,remains in various residue amounts depending on how well the sheet was cleaned (with solvent) after the process. Sometimes the brass sheet or part itself has a anti-tarnish coating. I use some of my wife's old baking trays to wash the sheet with acetone,rinse in water and then in diluted white vinegar for 15 minutes. I then rinse again in hot water and place it in the diluted Brass Black it several times,removing the scale that forms on the surface before reimmersing. Like Roger,I touch up with black paint and Dulcote. John -
Bossman,you are being way too critical of your head work. I've enjoyed looking in on your log and think you have done a really fine construction job of the Confederacy.
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Thank you,druxey,much appreciated advise. I was feeding from the opposite side of the plate,using the wrong part of the bamboo. John
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Greetings to all, I received my draw plate form Model Machines today,a finely made tool indeed. I am at a point on my Confederacy build where I have to decide whether or not to trunnel the hull. I do intend to do the deck planks when I get to that point. I have never used a draw plate before,so any advise on the right way to use this tool and suitable wood would be appreciated. I tried using a split bamboo skewer as material and judging by results I'll be spending the winter (my build season), just making trunnels. I also have no idea of the diameter these would have been on a frigate sized ship. With the 1:64 scale of the Confederacy an Inch is .015". John
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Thank you Peter.
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That is some really fine work there, Peter. What adhesive did you use to attach the photo-etched and cast parts? The transom looks so neatly done. The MKK worked well for the panes. I have some ready in my supplies for when I get to that point,it is good to see what it looks like when applied. John
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Looks great Peter.
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Hi Mike, I think this is great. One of my all time favorite cars. A friend had the van version in Morocco,nothing could stop it.
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Your Confederacy looks great Peter, I have enjoyed following your build. I am awaiting photos of your final sanding thickness of the inner bulwarks. Comparing what you have already done to my more or less untouched ones,it looks like I better stock up on sandpaper.
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Mini Table Saw recommendations
JohnB40 replied to captainscott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use a Micro-Mark table saw (non tilting). It is made in Japan and with a Proxxon fine blade it has served me well. If I am careful setting the fence and feed slowly it can make a cut with an accuracy of .004" when measured with a caliper. This surprises me somewhat for the price paid. Maybe I got lucky,but I certainly have no complaints -
At my rate of building,I'll be checking back in about a year with the hull finished!
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I couldn't use the 1/16" basswood strips for the moldings,so I used boxwood supplied by a Luthiers supply which I cut to size on my Micro-Mark table saw. The black painting used was mars black artists acrylic,very diluted and many coats applied. I first used golden oak Minwax oil based stain,but didn't like the result. I sanded it down,used a really diluted shellac mixed from flakes as thin sealing coat. This I sanded lightly and used General Finishes water based oak stain wiped off quickly. I finally ended with more or less blotchy free look...
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Greetings to all, Whilst being under house arrest and inspired by the other Confederacy builds on the forum,I have at long last finished the planking above the main wales. As I'm about to flip her over on her deck to carry on with hull planking,I thought I would share a few photos. I have included a few of the jig I used for bending planks for the stem and the building board and adjustable height stand. I have another building board made to support the deck to hold her steady for the lower planking.
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Peter, The construction on your Confederacy looks great. I'm looking forward to viewing future progress. John
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Thank you Jaager and Bill for your replies and advise. After posting, I tried bonding with PVA the pear trim to basswood scraps with acrylic painted and stained finish,as well as oil based stain. All finishes had been cured for months. I left all clamped for 24 hours .The oil based stain had the worst adhesion,I could pick it apart with light pressure from my finger nail. The acrylic paint and stain samples adhered a bit better,but the bond was still not that strong. The answer is as you suggested. I will have to cut blue masking tape to 1/16" wide strips and mask the hull where the trim is needed to be placed. I will deal with the photo etched parts when I get to that point. The M.S. Confederacy supplied wood is all basswood,which really needs stain and paint. I have never run into this before as all my previous kits were supplied with much nicer wood that just needed a finish coat of poly when all assembly was finished. John ,
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Greetings to all, A question concerning my Confederacy build...What effect will a stained or painted hull have on the bonding strength of adding wood trim and brass PE parts? I have finally milled some pear planks which I would like to use in their natural colour for the wales,these would have to bond to the basswood stained hull. Searching on the forum and on line I get conflicting views. I would think using a water based stain would give a better adhesion surface than oil based,but I prefer oil based as water based is far more opaque and tends to lift the grain. Any advise on types of stains,adhesive and techniques would be greatly appreciated. John
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Hi Cristian, Very nice build of the Confederacy. I hope mine turns out as well. I look forward your next project. Bonne Annee. John
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67 year old eyes here. I find myself using an Optivisor (with the small add on lens) quite a lot on other tasks besides model construction,as essential as socks as far as I'm concerned. Real glass is a must. I have an old General Tools pair from the last century in the garage. The plastic lenses have some scratches but I still use them for work out there. When I'm not using either pair,I always place them with the visor part in a gallon Ziploc bag to keep dust etc off the lenses.
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Switched from X-Acto to Excel blades......
JohnB40 replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have also found hobby and craft shops are limiting their selection and stock on blades. Many on line charge a lot in shipping fees,making the final price really expensive. I recently came across https://widgetsupply.com/ They have a good selection of Excel blades and other supplies. I have placed a couple of orders with them,which arrived promptly (same state),with reasonable shipping rates. -
My experience with John Garcia is your parts will arrive in within a week or so. Model Expo customer service is outstanding as far as I'm concerned.
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Hello Christian, Very nice work on your Confederacy. I am also building the frigate,although at a much slower pace than you. I was at my library's bookstore yesterday and spotted an old book on the shelf "Sailing Ships of War 1400-1860" by Dr Frank Howard,for two dollars. I bought the book and when I got it home I noticed something familiar about the ship on the cover art. Sure enough it was a painting of "The Continental Frigate Confederacy (32 guns) and HM ships Orpheus (32) and Roebuck (44) off the Virginia Capes,14 April 1781". It was painted by Geoff Hunt. I thought you might find it interesting,especially the hull colours. Regards, John
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I saw this in the Guardian...I hope the link works. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/oct/14/restored-19th-century-ships-figureheads-to-go-on-display-in-plymouth
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