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Everything posted by JohnB40

  1. Greetings to all, Thanks for the likes,and thanks Dan for the advice. Some progress on the wagon box so far. The box bed floor is together ready for sealing and finish. I wear glasses because besides other issues I have an astigmatism. The prescription to rectify this is ok for general use/reading,but causes weird parallaxes when focusing close up. As a result I needed a guide for keeping objects at right angles etc. I made a jig for the wagon box using a just milled piece of squared pine. I attached a back stop for the floorboards parallel to the end and then drew in 2 l
  2. Greetings to all, Thanks for the likes and replies. A bit of nomenclature confusion over the wheels. I used shrink tubing on the wheel hubs and not the rim iron tires. After assembly and painting,I did a web search looking for pictures of 19th century wagon wheels. The wheel hubs were wood with iron reinforcing bands to help stop them splitting. One was on the outer end of the hub and one was further inwards where the spokes join the hub. There was probably more on the inboard side too (no photo found). I ended up just doing the outers as it was impossible to paint or use the tubin
  3. Greetings to all, Some more progress on the chuck wagon... The jig supplied with the kit made the wheels construction easier than I anticipated. For the outer bands on the hubs I cut shrink tubing to the correct width and used a heat gun to shrink in place The chassis is complete with the exception of trimming the axle shafts to the correct length and fitting the axle nuts. For some reason presently unknown to me the instructions list this as the last thing to do after the wagon body is complete. I will stick to this as every time I don't follow instructions it never ends well.
  4. Greetings all, The fore and rear hounds are now completed on the chuck wagon. I will be starting on the assembly of the wheels next. Model Expo sent a new laser cut ply sheet for the wheels to replace the defective one...Great customer service. Building this kit reminded me of a visit to the Gene Autry Museum Of The American West in LA. One section had a display of old 'Salesman Models' from the later 19th century. These were highly detailed scale models of Items ranging from plows to wagons,which traveling salesmen would use to show potential customers their products. My wife h
  5. Mike, Very nice chuck wagon indeed. I am looking in on your Dennis Bus build,I always associate that company with fire engines. I built the Airfix Type B many moons ago. I boarded up the windows and painted it khaki for the #10 Ypres route
  6. Thanks for the likes on the build so far. The rear carriage (hounds) now has the iron work installed. The parts went together well. The only finicky part was fitting the gasket material square nuts. I found a piece of small diameter brass tubing in the scrap box and used it to push the nuts down in the bolts after applying a dot of CA glue. The brake mechanism parts are prepped and ready for installation. Will be starting on the front hounds next.
  7. The parts of the rear axle assembly are painted and ready for assembly. With the painting finish,I went back and forth on whether to to go with a new off the showroom floor or a has been on the Chisom trail weathered look. My wife settled it for the latter option by saying its not a "circus wagon". After primer,I used thinned flat red with a spot of black mix and used fine sand paper and rubbed with a piece of leather to give it a sun bleached,well used look. I went over to an old red barn and tried to replicate the look of the paint on it...They must have used the same red oxide,skimmed milk
  8. I need some of the etched brass parts to assemble the rear axle assembly. I decided to blacken the whole sheet instead of the just the parts as needed for each assembly . This is also the safest way to store them till needed. I searched the forum for blackening tips and after reading up,went with the following. I started by carefully by sanding the front and rear surfaces with 1500 grit paper.My wife donated an old 8" x 8" baking pan. Using latex gloves,I filled this with enough acetone to just cover the sheet and cleaned off any photo resist and oil left on it. I left the sheet to dry,rinse
  9. Started on Rear axle assembly. Turned down the axle shafts to fit hubs. Followed Dan's #11 blade scraping method,followed by polishing with 600 grit paper.Then primered,painted black and sealed with Dullcote. The other wood parts Have been trimmed,sanded and sealed with Dullcote. I am trying the Dullcote as a sealer/primer after reading online how it is popular with model train layout builders. Seems to work well,lays really flat,dosen't lift the grain and sands easily. I will know for sure when I paint the parts red tomorrow. I masked areas to be glued in the hope to be able to paint and then
  10. Hi to all, Decided to join the 'Wagoneers' over here on shore leave after seeing Dan's and the other wagon builds in progress. I needed a break from the Unicorn for a while and wanted to try my hand at something different. I chose the Chuck Wagon partly because I live on a cattle ranch and partly for nostalgia from old films. I really like the Kit,instructions,and the plans. All the parts with exception the ply sheet used for the wheel rims are first class. The ply is kind of rough with splintering and gouges on top and bottom surfaces,which I don't think can be rescued with filler. I wil
  11. " just white PVA wood glue. The aluminium wheel hubs don't really do more than hold the spokes in place - the spokes are glued to each other. No problems with anything not sticking " Thanks Dan.... The Chuck Wagon kit arrived today. I'm looking forward to getting started tomorrow.
  12. Hi Dan, I am really enjoying watching your progress on the stage,as I have with your other builds. I too have side tracked for a while from shipbuilding and ordered Model Trailways Chuck Wagon. I look forward to its arrival and starting a new project that won't take years to finish. I have a question on your wheel construction...What adhesives did you use? Regards, John
  13. Hello to all, I have decided to paint the wales on my Unicorn build matt black They look odd being natural walnut as is the rest of the hull,with black upper works. I have given the hull a coat of WOP (non acrylic) about a year ago to seal it (painfully slow build progress). I never have much luck brushing on acrylics,so I bought some Billings Boats enamel paint and thinners. I have lightly sanded the wales with #400 and would appreciate any hints about painting over WOP. Will enamel adhere to this finish ok in the long term? I plan to thin the enamel and multi coat. Any suggestions paint
  14. Hi Ian, Once again you have outdone yourself with the current construction. The swivel guns and mounts are marvelous examples of miniature modeling in their own right. The quarterdeck round portholes look great the way you set them in the cap. I guess we can never know if there was any kind of decoration surrounding them,but looking at the Lyme plans,in the case of that frigate,I would say not. The top rail and swivel gun posts will finish off the quarterdeck very nicely. As to where the the rail should end...I think I will throw a spanner in the works and suggest an option between o
  15. Hi Ian, One side of my forecastle was like your quarter deck. I placed a clamp to the other side and steamed the area carefully,tightened the clamp a little and repeated until it matched the other side. I then drilled through the center into the lower planks and used two brass rods to secure it in right position.I hadn't yet placed the inboard bulwark planks so when added they added extra strength to keep it in position. With yours I would use threaded rod through the round gun ports on opposite sides with suitable sized washers,ground like rounded end rectangles to spread the load a
  16. Happy New Year Mike, I have been away for the holidays so it is nice to catch up on your Pegasus build.......Great progress and lovely construction on the hull and counter planking,you must be well pleased to have finished this major phase of the build.
  17. Hi Ian, Thanks for inspiration to get going on the Unicorn again. The ships wheel is a lovely item,made to your usual high standards. I think your ideas for moving the wheel behind the mizzen mast,with a exposed tiller is sound,especially if you are going with a lanteen sail on the mizzen.None of the models or plans of contemporary frigates I have seen show a deadlight or anything resembling the shot holder. I could be wrong but I think this is down to artistic licence on Corel's part. The only problem I can see is what kind of damage will happen to the deck planks on removal and how to
  18. Hi Ian, I'm glad you are back,I hope you have had a enjoyable summer. Once again you have outdone yourself....The capstan is an object of beauty and amazing construction.
  19. Hi Ross, For the second layer of planking I used plank clamps,some shop purchased,some home made as seen below. I know how this isn't a great deal of help to someone on a ship in the Indian Ocean,but you could make the wood part of the clamps by using a strips of the basswood first planking off cuts. Glue sections together offset to form the L shape,cut to 10 - 15mm length, drill a small hole and you would end up with something like the wooden ones shown. That brings the problem of the tiny screws which are probably out of the question finding on a ship,but maybe you can find draw
  20. Greetings all, I was at the local Bi-Mart today following my wife around when I spotted these,and decided to give it a try for the princely sum of $4 It works really well,allows great control,and is like a having a razor sharp forefinger.
  21. Hi Ross, Welcome to the forum and Club Unicorn. The plans for the Unicorn do not show gun port lids,but they can be seen on contemporary models at the National Maritime Museum. You should check out Ian Major's log,if you have not done so yet,as he (and Landlubber Mike) have done a lot of research on the ship. Ian has gone with lids on the rear three and two front gun ports,which seems about right to me,I intend to do the same on mine. I hope this helps
  22. Hi Dave, I was just into ships brick and iron hearths.I hope this link works........ https://books.google.com/books?id=djwmMDm48uwC&pg=PA197&lpg=PA197&dq=ships+iron+firehearth&source=bl&ots=851V7UvB19&sig=YydgVzHXpsVD7ZgDmVeiQvOSd9U&hl=en&sa=X&ei=EL6QVZiVBIuzogTTv4PYDw&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=ships%20iron%20firehearth&f=false
  23. Thank you gentlemen for the kind replies and likes. Ian, I don't know if you noticed my cheating on the capstan? I added to the height by adding red painted copper sealing rings (left over from my days as a Jag mechanic) to the top. Mike, I headed to the shops and bought a cheap kiddies set square kit and a 1/8" and 1/4" drill bits in 6" lengths. You need the longer bits to get clearance past the stem. I secured the keel in a hobby vise and using the 30 degree set square with the 1/8" bit in a pin vise,carefully drilled a pilot hole. As the bowsprit passes through the beakhead deck w
  24. Greetings all, Time to update the log with some painfully slow progress on the Unicorn...... I was intending to finish the quarterdeck plank-sheer and railings before moving on. I purchased some Fiebing's black leather dye and stained the wood needed in preparation. I really liked the results,the dye doesn't clog the grain like paint and leaves a nice deep even black finish. I cut the pieces needed for the quarterdeck and then realized I was getting ahead of myself. The plank-sheer would have to be constructed for the whole ship,as doing it in sections as I went forward would make the curve
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