druxey

I imagine that the gun crew would not be just standing there during firing, but covering their ears with their hands!

Hah! You were doomed, Michael…. 
 
I had a similar experience. Some years ago, my mother was down-sizing and came across a construction paper booklet. It was a 'diary' that I had made in school when I was about six years old. On opening this, the first entry read, in a very childish hand, "I am building a ship model". Also doomed.

Thanks for all the likes
 
Yes I'm definitely hooked.
 
Not wanting to clutter up Bob's Lettie build log, and needing to deal with the same basic issues of holes through the bulwark and because Bob was waiting for me to try this, I did here are my results for the holes in the cutter at least one side of the hole.
1 cut the holes then sand the angle and tubes the tubes have had the first annealing
 

 
2 the first forming using a spoon shaped modeling tool for working with sculpy (not the best)
 

 
3 after the second annealing and using some shaped steel rods, the point was trimmed with some flush cut side cutters.
 

 
4 The wood soft poplar snapped out but the wood block was still usable for forming here the end of the seel rod is almost hemispherical
 

 
5 next a slightly narrower tip followed by a third annealing
 

 
6 an even sharper tip used on the back side to flare out the tube a little more the block under it is hard Maple
 

 
7 a little polish with some steel wool
 

 
8a check with the eye laying on the cap rail above the hole that it will serve
 

 

 
So I will use this method for the rest of the holes both inside and out
 
Michael
 
 

Sherry, thanks for those kind words.
 
While waiting for glue to dry on the cockpit.
 

 
I worked on the Boxwood blocks for the main sheet. the block parts were stuck to the block of poplar with some double sided carpet tape.
 

 
After drilling the 1/32 holes I dropped in some brass 1/32 rod to give the blocks a bit of assurance against the shear forces of the 5/32 end mill made from a snapped off (on purpose) drill bit.
 

 
The next task was one that I did have a little concern over because I did not use a centre drill to ensure that the start did not wander. The Boxwood has such a fine grain that I felt confident that the drilling would be Ok. I used 4 rods of 1/32 brass to assemble the stack of partsI was happy that they slid down nicely.
 

 
Because the wood is quite hard and fine I did not want to sand the excess off the assembly and opted to use the trusty jewelers saw , plus the off cuts can be used later on something else. the first task was to trace the shape from the elliptical pieces to the spacers with a sharp pencil.
 

 

 

 

 
Next I will drill the centre hole through the rest of the parts at the same time as the brass parts.
 

 
To be continued.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

cont

cont.

cont.

Good evening! I present to you the process of construction corvette L'Aurore, built in 1766. Model is built according to the drawings ANCRE, scale construction - 1/39, materials - pear tree, apple tree, brass, coating - wax mastic and bituminous varnish. Model given the effects of aging.
All the best, Vadim

I've been working my way towards the center and this is how far I've gotten.
 

 
While gluing them up I had a thought about putting some bracing between the bulkheads to
help stiffen them some more for when I have to fair them. I also thought it may help eliminate
any change of the hull twisting.  I took and measured the distance between the bulkheads at
the former and cut a piece of bracing and glued it towards the outer edge making sure not to
displace the bulkheads.
 

 

 
It seems to be working. I'll let you know when I finish with all of them.

Enjoy your new toy, Karl!
 
Thanks for clarifying that you were using imitation gold, rather than real gold leaf. I guess that's why you could afford the lathe!

I had a wonderful surprise this evening, I was looking through some family material looking for some information for my Brother who lives in BC when I found a letter that I had written to my mother and father in 1969 in it I was describing a boat that I was going to build, it was an interesting enough coincidence that I thought it worth sharing in this particular build log.
 
I was 21 years old at the time.
 

 
I definitely see a resemblance it has taken a while so far and it is a lot smaller than my original idea that i had completely forgotten, but it was obviously lurking there in the back of my mind somewhere.
 
Michael

Hello girlfriends and friends.
Thanks for the kind words and comments.
 
My newest tools and machine.
In for a horny device.!!!
I am as happy as a little boy over the Christmas gift.
greeting Karl    
 
 
 
Google Translator

Hi all,
 
I've managed to get a little bit done - the following would normally have taken me about half a day, instead I've spent nearly three days on these pieces. At least I can still do SOMETHING .
 
Fore Jeer Bitts
 
The Fore Jeer Bitts on Vulture are similar to the Fore Topsail Sheet Bitts, except they don't continue down to the upper deck. There is no room for Standards on them either as the hatch behind them is wider than most other Swan Class ships :
 

 
I've also made and fitted 22 Eyebolts - 10 around the Foremast, 8 in the bulwarks adjacent to the mast, and 4 in the Breast Beam :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

This continues to be a fascinating build. Lovely work, Ed!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 49 – Hull cleanup, Port side ceiling
 
Before moving to the interior of the port side, I wanted to remove the protruding bilge ceiling bolts on the starboard side of the hull.  There will be many more of these to be added but the installed wires are a hazard.  The first picture shows the epoxied through-bolts being clipped off.
 

 
The remaining bolt stubs and epoxy were then filed off as shown below.  A fine cut file works best for this because it doesn’t “grab” on the wire.
 

 
The next picture shows the lower hull sanded after removal of the bolt heads.
 

 
The next picture is a close up showing how the iron strapping will appear between the frames.  Most of the strapping on the inside will be covered with planking.
 

 
The copper wire bolts are bright in this picture and will be blackened later, just before applying finish to the hull.
 
The next picture shows the start of work on the port side with the installation of the first strip of bilge ceiling near midship.
 

 
This first strip is installed just below the heads of the first futtocks.  This sets the line of the bilge ceiling that the other strakes will follow.  There are four more thick strakes below this.  Above it, thick members extend up to the lower deck clamp as on the starboard side.  It may seem odd to install this before the strapping, but I did it for two reasons.  First, I wanted a very secure joint with the frames, especially on this side where a number of frames will be removed above this joint and below the middle deck clamp – to provide view ports into the hull.  Secondly, the pins shown in this picture were used to correct any irregular spacing between the frames.  This had to be done before strapping.  After gluing and before removing the clamps, most of these pins were replaced by copper bolts.
 
The next picture shows the first section of lower deck clamp being installed.
 

 
In this picture and the one that follows, the frames marked “X” will be cut out between the lower futtock heads and the middle deck clamp to provide the view ports.
 
The next picture shows the strapping covering all but the forward view port area.  There will be three of these view ports, one at each mast.
 

 
Sections of the deck clamps have also been added.  The lower deck clamp is not glued or bolted to the “X” frames, but the frames are securely bolted to the clamps above.  Note from the “X’s” that there are three groups of three frames to be cut out. This will be done much later when the structure has been well reinforced by additional members.
 
The last picture shows the strake of bilge ceiling extended forward along the lower futtock heads to intersect with the lower deck clamp.
 

 
All of these members are being epoxy bolted through the frames as they are installed to provide the primary strength to the joints with the frames.  Glue alone is not enough, especially where there is strapping.
 
 
Ed

While waiting for the next installment, I bought some Holly for the decks and worked a plank into shape on the Byrnes table saw for the waterway.  The area between the beam and the ceiling plank was set earlier with a prototype waterway.  The waterway is not yet glued in place.
Maury

Thanks for all the likes.
"It really is amazing what we can find lurking in the wood isn't it?"
 
Steve yes it happens when one is open to options.
 
Bob Had I been more conservative I would have cut a shorter piece of the end of the small log and would have also missed it.
 
Daniel, thanks.
 
Today was a good day for clamping.
 
The inside cover was glued first and now the task of adding the layers one piece at a time.
 

 
After the rest are glued up then I will shape the profile
 

 
 
Michael

Thank you for the kind words Antony.
 
Well I've pre fit all the bulkheads. Just some minor sanding of the slots was needed so it didn't
take as long as anticipated. Here is the first bulkhead in place. I clamp the angle piece in place
to hold the bulkhead square until the glue sets up. I do one bulkhead fore and one bulkhead
aft at a time and work my way to the center.
 

Thank you all for the "likes"
 
Sailor, thanks for the compliment.
 
Denis, Thanks, I really do enjoy working with Metal, although it does have its quirks.
 
today I unclamped the strips for the cockpit cap and began to think about the next steps which led me to cut a wider strip of a slightly thinner piece measuring .259 high x .040 inches thick which will be glued to the inside first to act as a lip for the top strips which are .190 x .050 inches. I did try using a curling iron but it was a bit too big in diameter, the Admiral was at work (shhh) I ended up plugging in the soldering station dialing back the temperature to about the half way point on the dial. slowly moved it back and forth whilst applying pressure to the strip to freehand the curves. It was then clamped into the cockpit to dry.
 

 
While it was drying I cut a short 2 1/2 inch section off the 3 inch diameter log of English Boxwood  Buxus sempervirens to make some larger blocks for the boom and the main sheet the top one will be a triple and the lower a double both 8 inches in scale. after squaring it up I cut some pieces which are 3/4 x 1/8 inches by 2 1/2 inches long laying out the ovals for the blocks, it occurred to me that I would end up with a larger more useful offcut if I drew the ovals at each end of the wood.
 

 
As I was fretting the ovals out it dawned on me that there were two cleats just hidden there waiting to be found, I think seeing Doris' wood cleats must have been lurking there in my subconscious.
 

 
I was happy to make this discovery and now I will have a few cleats to shape up as well.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks for stopping by, dear Sjors.
Today I took some better pics at daylight and now I am continuing with deadeyes on starboard.





 
Enjoy the pics, soon I will add new ones.
 
Best regards
Doris

Hello dear friends and warmly thank you for all your comments and praise. Your words mean a lot for me and I am pleased very much.

 
Well, the crew is interested mainly in the bottles with delicious drinks inside the cabins. I have to watch them not to be drunk. Maybe during  the nights, when I sleep,  they have a party on board..... because sometimes some of them fall over during the model construction.
 
 
Best regards
Doris
 
 
The port is finished, all deadeyes are placed at the channels according to plans.
 

I really like what you are doing with the little gem, I think your choice to leave the sails alone and not repaint them is the right and wise one.
 
Michael

Sailor I checked out the net , what a great bunch of images for shackles.
 
Used to sail, Thanks.
 
Nils thanks, I need quite a few it seems.
 
Today I did some work on the cockpit cap, I soaked some spruce for an hour or so while I made a former to bend the wood.
 
I will be using 5 strips to create the rough form once they are prepared I will glue them together.
 
I used a sheet of 6 mm aircraft ply to make the basic shape and bolted it to a sheet of 6mm plex
 

 
The sharp corners were not easy and I think that I will need to bend up a few more strips I did these first ones cold but I will use some hot pieces for the next strips I clamped them using some drop in pegs and wedges.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks Steven, useful links with good detail. The watermarks dont bother me much
 
The model is moving along. Having done the garboard strake and the various wales, The planking is straight forward.

Thanks Greg, I think I started doing that on the Confederacy.
 
Glad to have you here Jim. Are you going to make it up to CT for the show?
 
Hi Dirk, I hope you do build her. I would love to see it.
 
Also thanks everyone for stopping by and all the likes.
 
I had a great weekend. The real world left me to my devices  and I had a lot of
shop time.  Bulkheads are all cut out and stacked as previously mentioned and I
then attacked the bulkhead former . It is laid out in two pieces and I thought of
just cutting it out as one whole piece. But as Chuck pointed out to me that getting
one piece of plywood that long that wouldn't twist would be extremely difficult.
So after an unsuccessful search I relented and cut it from two pieces. I knew  I
shouldn't have wasted my time but then again I'm not known for my better
judgment and decision making.  
 
Any way the former plans were cut out and glued up, then I cut it out on the scroll
saw and fine tuned it with the disk sander and a sanding block. Once satisfied I
applied glue to both pieces, put wax paper over and under the joint, placed a scrap
board on it and some heavy weights and allowed it to dry over night.
 

 

 

 

 
Now I will test fit all of the bulkheads and then start gluing them up.