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About Trafalgarhero

  • Birthday 06/05/1983

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  • Location
    Mexico City
  • Interests
    Model ship building, traveling, short story writing

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  1. Try using tin foil. Just print the ensign on a decal and place it on or -if you feel adventurous- paint it directly on the tin foil. Let it dry and then use tweezers to imitate waving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjFmukVDwBs&t=164s(go to minute 16:55)
  2. Fore fighting top. Foremast with its top. Attaching the mizzen mast Bowsprit fitting General stern view
  3. Lids of the gunports. Beams of the waist deck. New skylight New openings on the window of the transom, in order to better appreciate the furnished interior General view of the project Main mast and fighting top. Details of the crosstrees, openings for Jacob's ladder and supports for the mast,
  4. Mounting the gun carriages of the quarterdeck. Window frames of the officers' cabins. Seat of the ratlines and gun carriages of the forecastle New decks in the waist deck Details of the waist deck. Weathering of the hull
  5. Alas! Holiday is over! Back to college and routine, see you in the summer! I leave you with a few updated views of my project...
  6. Correcting the paint lines of the yellow stripes along the gunports. In order to achieve a perfect line I masked the lines a little bit higher and then painted the whole thing black. This method seals any crevices and imperfections, and even if some of the paint leaks under the tape it won't matter, since it is the same color. After dry, I used a flat, pale yellow color, consistent with the era. Here is the old version... And the new one...
  7. World War II british light cruiser HMS Dido. Am I right?
  8. The rudder. I simply did not want to risk it to get it wrong, so first I went for a commercial piece. Sadly, the ones from Artesania Latina, Caldercraft and other model brands are metal die cast, usually the wrong scale or simply too crude. I wanted something very fine and detailed. In the end, I cannibalized an old kit for the rudder's wheel, and the stand and log case are made of styrene.
  9. Making the skylight for the quarterdeck. First, the frame: Securing the clear styrene window to the frame, I used Master Modeler's Styrene Weldener instead of CA glue, since I want the piece to be absolutely clean. Skylight into place
  10. The final carving for the captain's private gallery were tricky to make. After drawing the pattern, I transferred it to a thin styrene strip using carbon paper. Then, with a stencil and a hard tipped pencil, I drew the pattern over the stryene, so it would bump into the other side, finally I glued it to a thicker styrene strip. Here is the result.
  11. The forecaste rail, done. I filled the gaps between the inner and outer rail with epoxy, minding the gunports.
  12. Upgraded from the 1/350 ICM model, with wooden stand, brass guns and steel-wire railings. Weathered and painted in the colours of the High Seas Fleet, as she appeared in the Battle of Jutland.
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