BLACK VIKING

Post Eight-one
 
Quarterdeck knees
Prepping the knees didn’t take that long, but it helps to have a system.

2088

2098
Fitting these parts does mess up the painted bulwarks, fortunately there is plenty of room for cleaning up. Were I doing this job again I would have left the area of the beams covered by the knees unpainted before fitting, also the sides of the hanging knees where they attach to beam and Lodging knees.
Easier to touch in the paintwork rather than scrape away, and then have to clean up and re-touch anyway.
 
This time I fitted the full hanging knees first, followed by the short versions, and then the Lodging knees.

2092
This photo shows the trimming necessary to allow the knee to sit flush with the beam camber. The rebate on the back edge was lengthened a little to allow the knee to meet the beam camber at the deck clamps.

2099
I had imagined that fitting the Qtr deck Hanging knees would be trickier than those of the Foc’sle due to the tumblehome of the topsides.
Surprisingly I found the opposite, but perhaps my experience with the Foc’sle improved my dexterity.

2114
As with the Foc’sle the Lodging knees presented little issues.

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I also added the hanging knees fitted below the Waist beams. Three should be fitted but the aftermost location is fouled by the large cleat to take the Fore sheets.🤔

2106
The Foc’sle beams were given a clean up.

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2119
 
Onto the deck layout.
 
 
B.E.
22/09/2023
 
 
 

I really dont know if they are being resold.  
 
yes I hope to also have pearwood blocks but first I have to get it so I am fully stocked with boxwood.  
 
So it will be a while before I have those.  The two on the right are a test in pear.  The second one is a different mystery wood that I liked and tested.  Its a beautiful lighter brown color.  The first is boxwood.
 

 
Chuck 

Hi All
 
Thanks for the likes and comments and thanks to Fishhooks for posting on the error in the mast dimensions provided in the plans.  This is what the forum is about after all, I've learned a lot and continue to do so and hopefully this build log will prove some assistance to those who are in the middle of building this model or who are considering starting.
 
I started this on the 28/12/2020 and finally finished on 05/09/2023.  The model out of the box builds fairly well and I think the preceding posts point out all the main pitfalls I came across.  The only things I've changed are the making of my own rope and the addition of the two cannons at the stern.
 
The following photos show the end result of a model I've enjoyed building.
 
 
 

 









 
 
Thanks again for stopping by
 
 
Mark
 
 

Ladies and gentlemen please take a moment to recognize this historic moment in time!! Today, the twenty-first day of September in the year 2023, I did in fact reach the summit or the highest point of my Heller Le Soleil Royal. This is truly an auspicious occasion. Proud to say looking at the ship from the stern I see all three mast, and all 3 sections of each, line up behind one another! I did aggressively trim back the cross trees and trestle trees of the fore and main mast as well as remaking all 3 topgallant masts with wood dial rods. The very fragile trestle tree on the mizzenmast did suffer some damage and I will need to repair it before I can add the topgallant shrouds. 

Silver. Need to figure how to polish it now. 

good morning everyone
thank you for comments and likes
day 204-7
apologies for not interacting with the forum much recently, lots going on in the background, nothing at all bad, just busy
before you all laugh at me about my way of rigging this build, i vowed i would start at the front and work aft, most lines are still just temp and still to be fixed into position, today the foemast mast yard will be mad up, then hopefully get the ratlines done
it might all just bite me on the bum
 
the line between the fore and main is a temp backstay as non are fitted

 

Some pics under bright sunlight with the now finished prop spinners. Unfortunately it is very windy, so no risky angles, the wicked woman would have gone airborne .

Cheers Rob
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our pooch celebrated his first birthday yesterday. He’s a ball of energy.

So a good days work really. My plan is to have the rear area open 

With the main course buntlines completed I started working on the Mizen top sail tie and halliard, the fiddle block is made up using 1.5mm and 2mm blocks and a 1.5mm block in the top with the halliard end going to the pin rail. Up next will be the Mizen top sail yard then complete the remaining rigging on the Lateen yard, bowlines, tack and sheet. Thanks for looking.
 
Michael D.
 

Thank you druxey for your confimation. Very appreciated!
 
A little project in between, the Vic's fire buckets on the railing of the cabin deck.





And since the good pieces are made of leather and not metal, I gave them a little deformation as a little dafinistic touch.



XXXDAn

The castles are done, minus the ladders and any potential other stuff i decide to put there. At this point, basically everything above the actual top of the hull itself is made out of card.

Orlop deck ,Pump Well and Shot locker done - used Beech for the Orlop deck and I'm not sure I like it , I think I might get some Limewood and compare!

 
 

The planking on the port side is done, and the cannonports are installed.
Ready for a first sanding.
Sanded

Good to see, the irregular placement and the different sizes of the cannon ports.

What is that thing doing on MY table

A close up

Next to do: the starboard side

SEA TRIAL #2 !!!!!
 
While getting set up for this trial, I noticed my supply to the Arduino was intermittent (thank God for the power indicator LED on the board). Without a USB connection from a laptop, the Arduino gets its power from a 9V battery connected via a jack and the Arduino regulates it down to 5V. Two issues: (1) my 9V battery was giving barely 6.5V so the regulator was close to not being able to work (needs a certain amount of ceiling above 5V at its input), and (2) I forgot to solder one of the connections in the jack (!). So that's why the problem in Trial #1.
 
This time I simulated the second tier of oars by adding suitably sized slices of pine to the existing oars' blades with rubber bands. I am delighted with the result, she moves much better. I now look forward to making and adding the second tier of oars, finishing up the hull, adding the removable deck, and painting her.
 
Here's a video of this trial. I remembered this time to try out the various turning features i.e. inside oars stopped, inside oars reversed, depending on how sharply rudder is turned.
 
 

Hi, thanks @king derelict and @landlubber for your kind comments above.
Before tackling the finishing of the main airframe, I am tackling now the small bits.
I pre-painted with white all the details that need to be yellow, to avoid that the gray substrate make the final yellow shade to appear too cold a tint.

I also sprayed the interior of the landing gear well doors with the same color of the underside. After, I applied a clear gloss and some black liner to the doors. In the same picture, you see the landing gear struts cleaned and furnished with a brake line.

Then, I applied a very dark grey to the propeller and a black primer to the landing gear.

I used the dark grey because I want to reproduce some discoloration of the blades. For this, I sprinkled some sugar crystals on the wet blades and then I sprayed the same dark gray with some more black added to it. It is difficult to capture the result in the pictures, but, in presence, is quite subtle and nice.

Finally, these are the landing gear parts, aluminium painted, with some details picked up and with a final coat of matt transparent. 

That's all for now, thanks for keeping an eye on this build,
best regards,
Dan

Hi,
I masked the yellow stripes on the leading edge and after having sealed the edges of the tapes, I sprayed a light coat of white and then several coats of yellow.

This is the result after removing the tapes which basically conclude the main painting phase of the airframe.

The edges of the yellow bands now need some light sanding to eliminate the little ridges that were formed by the many layers of paint, but this is not a problem. On the lower side, I removed the masking material from the wells and started to apply some dirt inside and some slight discoloration on the surrounding surfaces.

Thanks for following,
cheers,
Dan
 

A few more  addional   photo  edits   to  add   to the  others   - 
 
OC.

the grass scrub looks fantastic,
 

Lovely. Simpler models brought just as much fun and enjoyment IMHO. 

Sweet! Got to go on a carrier “plane guard” when our Navy flew them. 👍😀

Hi all,     this  was  the first  kit  I brought   many  years  back  that  got  me back into  modeling,  it  was  just a  basic  build  with  no  tools  just  the  contents  of  the box  that  included paints  a brush  and  glue,   it was  just thrown together  during a  few  afternoons  while watching  naval ship movements  through our  old window.
 
OC.

*sigh* stupid modelling obsessive compulsiveness is a disease , My brains been bugging me about the Limber boards....so guess what's got limber board's now🫤 ,gone with appearance more than scale exactitude but their in now!
Should have known this would happen seeing my main hobby is 1/35 and 1/16 scale armour , usually with an interior with the 1/16 ones! , now I'm looking at the Bitt's and extending those now😏..

Hi, after having masked the stripes, I sprayed the black color. Actually, it was a mix of pure black with some white to obtain a sort of off-black hue. It was sprayed in a non-uniform way to leave a blotchy appearance, although not very visible in the pictures.



Next, the yellow stripes on the leading edge of the wing will follow.
Best regards,
Dan

Making progress:

The issues with the glue spots will be solved when I seal the parts after making the door frames.