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WBlakeny reacted to ziled68 in H.M.S. Triton 1:48 scale cross section - FINISHED
Greetings to all,
Another minor update to my Triton but update just the same. I know that it’s been a while since my last update due to the fact that I went on vacation to Puerto Rico (which I might I add I enjoyed immensely). Upon returning, I decided to tackle the starboard side gangway with its wooden brackets. Upon completion of the gangways, I then made and added the ladders to each gangway and finished it off the gangway with simulated treenails. If you note, there is a height on the aft QD from the gangway that I find to be too high for a man’s natural step. I will add one step at the base of the QD’s beam in order for a man to step naturally from gangway to QD. I have also finished the entry steps to both sides of the Triton, added each side’s fenders, and also added the brakes to the ship’s cistern system.
The next thing on my agenda is to make and install the QD rails, add the skid beams, work on the mast, make and install the lower hold’s platform ladder, and add barrels and ballast. I know that there is still quite a few items left to work on but I figure that if I make a temporary checklist in order to be sure that I tackle the main items, I won’t get to the end and realize that I missed something.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Michiel in Prins Willem 1650 by Michiel - 1:50 - POB Zeeland ship from own plans
Hey Michiel, I've just finished reading your build log, she's becoming a real beauty.
Those old dutch ships, they surely have a certain charm about them .
I like your workshop, wish i had a space like yours to create a similar shipyard.
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WBlakeny reacted to ziled68 in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Good Morning Chris,
If you are careful with the amount of pressure you use on every pass of the triangular file, up to the depth of your rabbet line, you will not mark the outside too bad. Just remember to go slow and careful. I've attached a photo so you can see that the rabbet is not too deep.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Rustyj in Bomb Vessel Granado by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:24 - cross-section
Wow! Nicely done and to be proud off.
Hats off.
Chris
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WBlakeny got a reaction from VACorsair in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it. But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet. The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from VACorsair in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Working on the midships bulkheads, those need to be hollowed out to form the inner cabin.
I first drilled some wholes in the bulkheads.
Those wholes permitted me to insert the saw of the scroll saw. I then sawed along the line of the cabin floor and the lines for the thickness of the frame. Leaving an upper beam for strength, it'll come off afterwards, when the planking will be done.
Afterwards i used the drum sander of my Dremel to roughly sand the inner contour of the cabin.
And finishing off with the file.
Dry fitted the finished midship bulkheads.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from VACorsair in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Hi Don and welcome to my build log.
I continued my work on the keel. I first glued some black paper on the keel.
Afterwards I glued the different pieces to each other.
I just did the stem, as I’ve noticed the pieces at the stern were not long enough. There’s a gap between them and the profile former.
Back to the saw to fabricate new pieces.
There's also a small gap at the sterm but since that part will dissapear when the planking will be done, i'll just glue a small filler piece between them.
For the curved piece of the keel, I made a simple jig to keep enough pressure on the parts till the glue dries and to make sure, the pieces are flat to each other.
An overview of the whole keel and the profile former with the stern pieces and profile former not yet glued to each other.
Now I was wondering if have not made a mistake here. I used black paper to simulate the caulking, but are those pieces really supposed to have caulking between them?
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WBlakeny got a reaction from jct in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Then it was time to make my first sawdust. I glued all the bulkheads on a sheet of ply and then cut them out using a scroll saw.
After sawing them out (i had to leave enough on them), i used the sander to finetune the bulkheads.
I printed the plans a couple of times, en used them to cut out the forms to make the keel. I temporarily glued them using a paper glue on a piece of cherry wood. First time i used this wood, and it sure is a difference from the wood used in kits. It feel and looks so much nicer.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from dewalt57 in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
First thing i noticed when examing the bulkheads, is that on some of them, the sides were not equal.
Perhaps it was not that bad, maybe in the case of fairing up it would have dissapeared. But i was afraid of taking the risk, so i took the bulkheads and with the aid of my computer i took a mirror image from one side.
Result, both sides equal now
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WBlakeny reacted to KennyH78 in H.M.S Triton Cross Section by KennyH78 - FINISHED - 1:48
Got the frame work started for the lower deck. I still need to make and install the ledges and knees. Right now I have it fitted to the hull, but will glue it in once the frame is complete. The deck planking will be done with some nice maple that I have and then I think I will move on to planking the outside hull up to the wales.
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WBlakeny reacted to ziled68 in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Hello Blakeny,
Your model is coming along nicely. If you have not started your rabbet you may try using the method I use for making them. I'll draw my rabbet line where it needs to be and then carefully follow the line with an X-acto blade just to score the line. Once that is complete, I will run a triangular file along the score and press ever so slightly with every pass until I get the correct depth of my rabbet.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from jct in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it. But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet. The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
My keel broke off!!
Apparently the black paper i used is too thick, the bond between the two parts with the paper is not strong enough, because the glue can't penetrate the paper.
In the DVD "Model ship building secrets", dr Mike said that black paper is good quality paper. And that white paper should be used because it is of inferior quality. So I tried with some white paper which i colored black with a marker, but it wasn't much good either.
I then tried drilling some wholes in the keel to reinforce it with a dowel, but i should have used a drill press to drill the wholes. Big mistake! One of the wholes came out sidewards, and where visible from the side.
So for the third time, back to the saw. (Now i know why scratch building takes so long )
I first traced the false keel to the plans to have the exact outline of the keel pieces. I wanted to make sure, i've no more gaps.
Then it was back to sawing and sanding the keel pieces with finally glueing them.
I used an old mirror as surface upon i glued the pieces to each other. As such i was certain the surface was perfectly flat. This time i didn't use black paper but i just used a pencil on the parts.
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WBlakeny reacted to Chuck Seiler in Gunboat PHILADELPHIA 1776 by Chuck Seiler - Scale 1:48 - from Model Shipways plans
Bow gun and fore stay spreader mounted.
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WBlakeny reacted to Randy in Randy's Triton
All of the forecastle beams are in place. The hanging knees and lodging knees are installed. Any suggestions are appreciated. pictures are included.
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WBlakeny reacted to Michiel in Prins Willem 1650 by Michiel - 1:50 - POB Zeeland ship from own plans
And some more detials for the gun deck
A bilge pump:
and the last four lanterns:
Best,
Michiel
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WBlakeny got a reaction from piperjoe in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it. But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet. The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from yvesvidal in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
My keel broke off!!
Apparently the black paper i used is too thick, the bond between the two parts with the paper is not strong enough, because the glue can't penetrate the paper.
In the DVD "Model ship building secrets", dr Mike said that black paper is good quality paper. And that white paper should be used because it is of inferior quality. So I tried with some white paper which i colored black with a marker, but it wasn't much good either.
I then tried drilling some wholes in the keel to reinforce it with a dowel, but i should have used a drill press to drill the wholes. Big mistake! One of the wholes came out sidewards, and where visible from the side.
So for the third time, back to the saw. (Now i know why scratch building takes so long )
I first traced the false keel to the plans to have the exact outline of the keel pieces. I wanted to make sure, i've no more gaps.
Then it was back to sawing and sanding the keel pieces with finally glueing them.
I used an old mirror as surface upon i glued the pieces to each other. As such i was certain the surface was perfectly flat. This time i didn't use black paper but i just used a pencil on the parts.
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WBlakeny reacted to mtaylor in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
Don't use India Ink. Use artist's pigment from an art store. It's powdered. Mix a small amount (very small) with a bit of water to make a slurry and then mix it with a bottle of glue. EdT explains it here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/?p=120375
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Omega1234 in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it. But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet. The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Barbossa in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
My keel broke off!!
Apparently the black paper i used is too thick, the bond between the two parts with the paper is not strong enough, because the glue can't penetrate the paper.
In the DVD "Model ship building secrets", dr Mike said that black paper is good quality paper. And that white paper should be used because it is of inferior quality. So I tried with some white paper which i colored black with a marker, but it wasn't much good either.
I then tried drilling some wholes in the keel to reinforce it with a dowel, but i should have used a drill press to drill the wholes. Big mistake! One of the wholes came out sidewards, and where visible from the side.
So for the third time, back to the saw. (Now i know why scratch building takes so long )
I first traced the false keel to the plans to have the exact outline of the keel pieces. I wanted to make sure, i've no more gaps.
Then it was back to sawing and sanding the keel pieces with finally glueing them.
I used an old mirror as surface upon i glued the pieces to each other. As such i was certain the surface was perfectly flat. This time i didn't use black paper but i just used a pencil on the parts.
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WBlakeny reacted to mtaylor in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
A nice save.... One way around the paper problem is to punch many small holes in the paper so the glue can soak through to the other side. I forget who's doing it, but they are using black tissue paper. The paper is thin enough to allow the glue to soak through. Another way is color the glue. EdT talks about this in his Naiad log and it works as have tinted a bottle of Elmer's wood glue and it works very well.
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WBlakeny got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it. But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet. The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.
-
WBlakeny got a reaction from Aussie048 in Corsair by WBlakeny - FINISHED - 1:32 - SMALL - Bermuda boat - First scratch build
My keel broke off!!
Apparently the black paper i used is too thick, the bond between the two parts with the paper is not strong enough, because the glue can't penetrate the paper.
In the DVD "Model ship building secrets", dr Mike said that black paper is good quality paper. And that white paper should be used because it is of inferior quality. So I tried with some white paper which i colored black with a marker, but it wasn't much good either.
I then tried drilling some wholes in the keel to reinforce it with a dowel, but i should have used a drill press to drill the wholes. Big mistake! One of the wholes came out sidewards, and where visible from the side.
So for the third time, back to the saw. (Now i know why scratch building takes so long )
I first traced the false keel to the plans to have the exact outline of the keel pieces. I wanted to make sure, i've no more gaps.
Then it was back to sawing and sanding the keel pieces with finally glueing them.
I used an old mirror as surface upon i glued the pieces to each other. As such i was certain the surface was perfectly flat. This time i didn't use black paper but i just used a pencil on the parts.
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