JesseLee

Still working on the ship's stand. I cut out one cradle and now I have to finish sanding it and staining it. 

Many thanks for yours feedback!
So I cleaned and cleaned the bottle again. Then I determined the volume of the future sea.  I also finally fixed some parts of the rigging and cut off their free ends.  In general, I carried out a final check of all elements of the model before the process of filling up.  And finally, I disassembled the model into parts, at the same time drawing up an assembly diagram and marking the threads.
 

Thank you very much Michael,
 
The model is now standing under the window on a side board, in good view from my desk working place...
I was so happy to get all the glas panes without any damage or breakage. Together with my wife we got the glasbonnet gently and slowly down from above and on to the guide pins
 
Nils
 

 
 

Happy Thanksgiving to all of those in the US!  Unfortunately the  shipyard has had to suddenly close due to a minor, but messy, health and safety violation involving a clumsy thumb and Xacto knife - nothing serious but plasters/band-aids preventing fine work.
 
Good opportunity to sit back and ponder gun rigging as I'll need to order additional materials from Syren.  Think I'm done with additional detailing on the cannons in the interests of sanity;
Monograms are from Syren, given a quick dash of 'dark iron' Cpaint and glued into place with CA Cap-square eyebolt made with wire and the cap square joint bolt is one of the smaller PE ring bolts.  
 
First mock up of potential rigging, as previously discussed, the breech rope is 0.88mm Syren line.  This line does make the half hitch a little more cumbersome, but think it can still work, even though they will be somewhat hidden even for most visible guns in the waist.  Going to live without the wheel lynch pin and cap square pin/chain.
 
Cannon rigging:
Breeching rope does require some dilute PVA to hold into position on the button.  Wanted to give the hauling tackle a feeling of 'weight', and have been experimenting assembling these off the model using a serving machine to get consistent spacing and also do the frapping.  Procedure still to be finalised…
 
Details as follows:
Block are 1/8" (3.18mm) single/double blocks from Syren Blocks are stropped with 0.012"(0.3mm) line Port tackle line is 0.008" (0.2mm) line Hooks are 4mm from Syren (these are black plastic which I ordered some time ago and don't think Chuck still offers them which is a shame as they seem easy to work with)

Congratulations, Nils.  She is a beauty.
What a wonderful, whimsical piece of art to have in your home. 
And you will always know that it was made with your own hands.
Bravo!
Dan
 

I'm starting to build a stand for my boat since none comes with this kit. 

Igor that looks wonderful! If you have too many of these small models and they are filling up your display space you can always send it to me, I would send you my address if you need it.  Please!
 
Michael

Hello to all!
So ... The boat stood on the shipway during almost a year in anticipation of the process of placing in the bottle. About a month ago, I returned from vacation and, in the remaining few days before going to work, I, nevertheless, poured the sea, put the parts of the hull in a bottle and ... In general, as of sundays evening, everything looked like this -

 
I'm going to tell about the process of moving the model into the bottle a little later.
 
Best Regards!
Igor.

Today the casing has been completed, the Chebec fitted inside, and sowith the project come to an end....
 
Nils
 

Volume wise this is my largest glass case ever built....
 

 
 

 
 

 
 


 
 

 
 

No, there is nothing in this kit. Everybody has to come up with their own.
 
Jesse

Jason. Your build makes me want to burn all mine. LOL. Seriously...awesome job!

Mike - yes, the scuppers are PE from the kit...and yes, I had the same experience as you!  The carpet monster also ate a few, and I don't even have carpet!  I found the technique of attaching to masking tape, smearing some CA glue on the back side and then positioning, seemed to be enough time to adjust before it fully set.  Holes were drilled at an angle to the hull to try and give the impression of the tube angling up to the deck,  but that proved a little hit or miss.  Closeup, think the PE definitely looks overscale, but from regular viewing distance they blend in OK, and they will probably blend further when the other hull fixtures are added.
 
Well, I asked the question and MSW answered!!  Thanks everyone for your input, you've swayed me to the larger size, not a single vote for the smaller dimension.  Of course the larger rope will require far more taming but I'll solve that in due course.  Now to figure out how to attach to the ringbolt with a scale appropriate solution...
 
Just before putting this to bed, here is a picture I found from Endeavour which shows a smaller size breech rope which initially played into my deliberation.
 

 

Rich there is discussion on this forum on that very subject:
 
 
 
Dave

I finished the rudder chains and because the Argus has superstructures in the stern and pictures I have of an old model of the Argus makes me believe that the chains run through the hull into the superstructures just like on the USS Constitution where they run through the hull into the gun room for emergency steering.

I started to install the rudder chains or pendants. I'm not sure how detailed I'll be. Run the lines all the way to the deck or just clip them to the hull?

Thanks Chuck, Having a quality kit and great plans and instructions sure make it a lot easier!
 
Hi Joe, Thanks for the kind words. I might be persuaded to stop by with it.
 
Thanks everyone for the likes too! Very much appreciated.

Ok after much delay I've finally got the display case and mounted the barge!
 

 
This is a wonderful kit and a lot of fun to build. Thanks Chuck.
 

I basically installed the hammock nets. Now I just have to clean them up and trim. This was like dealing with spider webs the netting is so fine. Worse than putting toothpaste back in the tube

Carl  - sadly Victory doesn't have any 18lb'ers...
 
Found the exact info I needed after a lot of digging in the 'armament' section:  This translates as follows:
24lb 6 1/2" circumference - 0.82mm diameter at 1:64 18lb 5 1/2" circumference - 0.69mm diameter at 1:64 9lb 4 1/2 circumference - 0.57mm at 1:64  
So not surprisingly, the smaller size is slightly too small (91% of actual), and the larger too large (127% of actual).  Mathematics would point the smaller size being least inaccurate, so as always it seems it comes down to the 'eye of the beholder'.  Interestingly, I had initially leaned toward the larger size as well, but changed my view.
 
Cannons on Trincomalee are 18lb'ers, but the breech rope do look bulkier, however no info to suggest that these are indeed the 'period correct' size either.  And so the modelers dilemma, follow sources, try to replicate (possibly inaccurate) real life examples, and/or follow your eye!  (The cheesed hauling tackles jump out at me as a little incongruous being probably not contemporary practice (rather than more practical frapping) but this is a look modelers follow because it does look good!)
 
The jury is still out...of course, this isn't a matter of life and death, its way more important than that 🙂 
 

 
 
 

@Pat - I tried using a very fine sanding stick after coat of primer had been sprayed on.  This worked in some cases, but less so in others, and not at all in all those hard to reach corners.  I've never seen many samples of 3D printing to compare to so I may be being a little unfair, and of course it comes down to the materials supplied.  I ordered the "Smoothest Fine Detail' option which was the 'best' finish of those available.  Its odd as one side is almost perfect, the other much rougher...https://www.shapeways.com/product/9VPR7D8CW/1-64-lower-capstan-18th-and-19th-century?optionId=64749325.  I suspect other materials offered by other suppliers could give better results.
 
Taking stock:
 
Not too much time in the shipyard this weekend, trying to get the garden ready for winter.  The shipyard did however get a bit of a spring cleaning as I was getting a little bit tired of working in a 2"x2" square on my cutting mat despite working on a pretty large table.  A few overall shots of where things stand as its been a while.  Now the channels are glued, the chainplate locations could be drilled as well as the emergency rigging eyebolt positions.  The scuppers have also been completed.  The positioning of all of these things requires quite a bit of planning and luckily I didn't encounter any problems with the airing ports.  (I seem to recall leaving off the foremost one because it is very tightly positioned between preventer links and would have been impossible to locate correctly and likely resulted in a necessary compromise with the chain alignments. 
 
Nearly all the parts for the upper gun deck have been completed an I'm still following the mantra of not gluing something into place until it absolutely needs to progress.
 

 
Syren rope will be used, and I would welcome peoples' opinions on which size to use for the breech rope.  Picked two sizes that seemed most appropriate, left is 0.025"/0.63mm, the right is 0.35"/0.88mm.  Even though I'm sure it exists, I can't find info on what regulation would be - and even if I did, the carriages and barrels are best efforts at matching scale and undoubtedly not spot on, so the right "look" is probably more important.  Upon consideration, I think I'm leaning toward the smaller size, but again would appreciate input...
 

 

I fixed the sharp edges on the longboat tiller, but as usual, the crappy wood from this kit just crumbled when I tried to sand it. I had to "graft" on a repair.

further on with the Chebec`s glass case making....
 
the slotted rods unfortunately come only in 900mm lengths, due to the required length of the base and the glass panes, the rods will have to be shafted. I chose a brass reinforcement profile in order to strengthen the shafted joints. The complete glass bonnet and its frame will be guided and centered in 6 places for removal..... (at four corners and one on each length side)
 
Nils
 

this is my little model, which I take to the glasser, when ordering the panes, together with a scetch comprising the dimensions, pointing out why the dimensions and tolerances are important to hold
 
 

corner / side guide sleeves and pins to centre the removeable bonnet later on
 

shafting the bottom length sides at 25° angle, with brass reinforcement profiles (assemly with CA)
 

the reinforcement will hardly be visible afterwards
 
 

the frame will be flush with the upper outside base contour
 

Yes you are right Rich, the kit supplied wood is awful. I had to use other wood for many parts too, especially the fife rail.
 
Jesse 

Starboard side nets are finally finished. Now I'll start on the port side

Thanks for all the likes again everyone.
Well the jeer blocks, slings and lower lift blocks are attached to the masts, the masts are glued into the hull and the chain plates are attached to the hull as well.
Just a few photo's of the very simple setup I used to line up the masts and of the components mentioned above.
I did notice on the close-up photo's that my netting has turned out very sloppy. Not too happy with that in hindsight but I am not keen pulling that apart and starting again. I'll learn from it for the next one (hopefully...).
Looks like rigging is next...
Cheers, Peter