puckotred

At last some progress.
Lower large deadeyes and chains sorted ready for assembly and painting.
There are a few spares provided but these bits are easy to lose.
The brass rod provided with the kit was far too springy.
Tried stretching and annealing it but not at all happy with the result.
Ended up using soft copper wire around the deadeyes and,
aluminium wire for the chains. The chains will be tweaked after assembly
and during fitting.  The lower chains will be bent to suit individual
locations.  Apologies for the "light bounce" in the centre of the photo.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Here -> Occre missing parts

Thanks Bob!

Thanks Bob!

Oh you guys... ☺️
 
Thank you for the kind words....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

Thanks Bob!

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

Beautiful tram diorama, Mr. Pucko! I have the San Francisco tram on order.

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

Hi and, thanks for the likes.
No real progress.
Still not sure what to do with the deadeyes and chains.
Decided to cut material for the yards, booms, boomkins and flag mast.
Seem to have a lot of dowel left over.
Either I'm missing something or OcCre have been generous.
Have put spares back in box until I find out which.
Lots of work to be done on the yards so putting off
the chainplate decision until later.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Hi and, Happy New Year everyone.
Basic masts constructed and temporarily located.
Usual discrepancies between parts list and plans
but it all went together fairly well.
Appear to have too many dowels of one size
and not enough of other sizes.
Yards are painted black so I can use the walnut dowel
from my spares box.
It pays to plan out all materials and fittings well in advance
for this kit to make sure you have enough good quality pieces
for each stage.
Yards next then painting and fixing blocks etc.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Shrouds continue and am making my thoughts/investigations about the yards. Dontknow if they were black or pure. Do know though how they were shaped from Bellabarba's book.

Working ahead on superstructure, as I've waited for suitable outside weather for hull painting.  Didn't know I would need watch-maker skills assembling PE brass.  Work to date.  Tried easy PE parts to gain skills.  At present, I plan to leave the assembled PE brass unpainted.  I think I'd rather look at the PE "in the raw" than have a fully painted mode.  To that end, I've been priming and paining any wood that will not be covered with PE brass either grey or black, as determined by the manual pictures.  I'm leaving the plastic parts unpainted, where suitable.  I may paint the stack after gluing together the two halves, if it looks like I will want to fill the seam, but that will be the base for all the PE detail parts that get attached to the stack that will stay brass.  If I persist in this plan, I'll do an overall spray of clear matte paint over the whole model for durability and consistent sheen.  Where there are large plastic parts in the superstructure that attach to wood, I've been using epoxy, rather than CA.  It offers a longer working time to get the position just right and I just trust it more than my skills attaching large pieces of plastic to the wood understructure.
 
A note to other builders:  When you assemble the many pieces of laser-cut ply to fabricate the superstructure pieces, be very careful to get all of the ply pieces fully seated in their respective notches.  I found it better to do just a few pieces at a time and allow them to cure before going on to attach more pieces to ensure that each part is firmly in it's slot/niche.  The reason for this will become evident as you start attaching the plastic and PE pieces and discover that you left a 1mm gap in a place where a piece of plastic or PE brass attaches.  Since I'm using PVA glue for the wooden parts, this has added time to the assembly process. "Tain't a hobby if you hurry".

Basic lower masts temporarily located.
Started topmasts.
Parts list calls for 10mm diameter masts  -  drawings show  8mm dia.
I noticed this after the masts had been cut to length and lower chocks fitted.
My spares box is taking a hammering again.
Also mizzen mast part 318 (preformed metal) has gone walkabout.
Both problems easy to deal with but frustrating.
Really looking forward to rigging this monster.
 
Happy New Year,
 
Sam.
 

Hi and, thanks for the likes.
Started on the lower masts.  
Slightly unusual construction but worked well.
Tops partially finished, cross trees to add then rear railings
and drilling.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

@Patrick Matthews I like it, if it does the job for 20+ years, then it must be doing something right. I do like the idea of the magnetic sheets. If I didn't have a 3D printer mine would probably look something like yours  
 
Yeah the blades I will change to the square single edged ones, the scalpel blades are just what I had to hand but it will be a pain to change. The plastic is quite hard and not even scratched yet but we'll see how it holds up after a few 100 cuts  and the fence only goes out to 55mm so that needs tweaking for longer repeat cuts. Great thing about 3D printing is I can just print a fence with different geometry in a few minutes.
 
I'll post V2 when it's done.

Not been around for a while but I recently bought a new ship kit to keep me occupied over Christmas (no doubt a lot longer than that). I need a plank cutter for making multiple repeat 90 degree cuts. Yes I know I could have bought one, but I figured I would make use of my other hobby and 3D print one and thought people here might like to see it.
 
It takes a Swann Morton scalpel blade and lets me do any angle between 45 and 90 with adjustable/removeable fences to make repeat cuts.
 
This is the first version and already thinking about changes to improve it. Probably change it to use standard double edged razor blades among other things.
 

First layer of planking has been largely completed. I now have a shaped hull to begin cleaning up for the second planking layer of a yet to be determined wood species. The kit came with walnut for the hull, and while I will use it for accent colors, I want the field to be a lighter coloring. I’m leaning towards a cherry wood at the moment… we shall see. 
 
The upper works still need to be cut and shaped as right now they are left long and high to be cut to correct shape later. I’m also having some issues with the forecastle elevation. To me, it seems awfully tall so I am looking back through drawings and the Anatomy of a Ship book for Royal Caroline to see what makes sense. 
 
On the interior, I have begun to locate and plan for the cabin builds. Not much beyond some measurements and markings thus far, but it all starts somewhere. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi and, thanks for the comments and likes.
Basic bowsprit construction finished.
Just got to add the blocks and fix into position.
Still undecided on how to make the deadeyes and chains
so will make the masts  to the same level.
This will give me time to sort out the deadeyes (hopefully).
 
Regards,
 
Sam.
 

Hi and, thanks for visiting.
Schubbe  -  Not just wine but good German wine.
Snug Harbour Johnny  -  agree with your comments.
It was the thick ribs and one piece cover board that put me off.
I have noticed some  1/48 scale ships boat kits available.
These may be the answer. Though at £45  -  50 a pop added to the extras
already used on this build I decided to use the supplied pieces where possible.
Still mulling over what to do with the deadeyes and chains so put it off for a few days
and moved on to the bowsprit.  Photo shows basic construction.
A lot more work required.
 
Regards,
Sam.