puckotred

Hi Pukotred and thanks Schubbe for the interest.
The cover is lead or aluminium foil recovered (very carefully) from the tops of wine bottles.
Have been harvesting this material for years.
Not so common now because of screw tops and plastic seals.
The seam necessary because I had to use two pieces of material.
Formed by folding over one side and glueing then, superglueing down to the other side.
A very thin bead of thin superglue along the outside of the seam forms a seal.
Then three or four coats of ordinary water based domestic paint applied by  "dabbing"
with a stiff brush to give texture.
Being formed from lead it is easy to form and keeps it's shape.
 
Hope this helps,
Sam.
 

 
 

Hi, thanks for visiting and all the likes.
Ships boat finished and located.
Lantern and anchors done.
These will be fixed later.
Next will be the deadeyes.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

 

Hi, and thanks for visiting and, the likes.
Planking finished with no real problems.
Next is sanding down and, the rubbing strakes.
Have decided to fit a cover and paint the outside.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Post Thirty-eight
 
Planking completion
With the plank lines re-marked, I begin the final push for completion of the hull planking.
I am now alternating strakes both up and down.
 
As each strake is  fitted I keep an eye on the likely requirements for the final spiled plank.
Something of a forlorn hope that the kit strip wood will meet without a gap.

1248(2)
With four strakes to go it is clear that a wider strip will be required for the final plank.
 
The last few strakes take a while to fettle but  at 1643 gmt on 20th November planking is completed to my great relief.
This last stage of the planking has taken five days the last one is put into place after a full days work on the model.

1267(2)

1266
The final spiled planks, the tape is used as a template.

1268(2)
The two darker planks are of wider strip and had to be used as I ran out of the paler stuff of the right dimensions.  Fortunately they are positioned well beneath the round of the hull and out of sight in the normal display position.
 
So after three months work the basic hull is completed, time will now be spent sanding the hull to get as good a finish as I can.
 
B.E.
21/11/21
 

Started on the ships   barge.
Good quality ply sheets provided.
Instructions say   --   glue false keel and frames to baseboard provided.
Then sand frames and fit planks starting from the false keel.
It then suggests you fit the first plank following the marks on the frames
closest to the base.  I went for the common sense approach.
The marks for this plank are slightly hit and miss. A5 is 2mm out this side, correct other side.
Then the keel will be fitted
Then fix up and down ending in the middle with a plank sharpened at both ends.
Once the garboard strake is fitted I will remove the structure from the base board,
trim the tops of the frames down to the top plank and fit the covering board.
After planking will be fixed the rubbing strakes and the thole pins.
Not bothering with the insides,  I intend fitting a canvas cover to keep the
rain and seagulls out.  Might paint the outside white.
 
Regards,
 
Sam.
 

 
 

Hi, and thanks for the likes.
Channels fitted.  The plywood brackets came away from the sheet very cleanly
and needed no prep work apart from removing the laser char.
Next would be the lower deadeyes but still mulling over what to do with the chains.
Might replace with real chain as Mark's postings.
In the mean time having a go at the ship's boat.  This should be interesting.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Hi,
Thanks for the likes and comments.
Just adding four guns to the upper deck.
Will add gun tackle later, maybe when my hands stop shaking.
Next is the channels and lower deadeyes.
Regards,
Sam.
 

Hi and, thanks for visiting.
Head timbers fitted.  These are all supplied laser cut
and as usual didn't fit.  All scratch built except for
pieces 138 and 133 which merely needed re-shaping.
The trimming pieces to the hawse holes disintegrated
as they were being detached from the sheet and,
as for the windshields part no. 181   -   there was only one
supplied on the sheet.  No big problem because the supplied 
part didn't fit anyway.
Compared the one third scale side elevation with the photo's supplied.
Checked to see what Mark and Sferoida did then went my own way.
This is my first build that doesn't supply full size plans.
How much is a piece of paper  ???
Next steps are   -  four guns on the upper deck then.
channels and deadeyes.
The lantern,  anchors, falconets,   ships boat
and touch up to follow.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

 

Standing rigging is a bit futther and shrouds are ready to climp the masts!

Hi All,
Something newish for me thanks to the inspiration of others on this site.
 
I started this build several years ago, 2008?
I got  the basic hull and some Superstructure almost compete and thought it was time to drag it out again....
Reasons for this is that I am tired of sitting on my Chuff for the last couple of months waiting for surgery on a torn  right Rotator Cuff and looking like I'll be languishing for a couple more month's to come.
 
The scale and size makes things a little easier to accomplish with my left hand. 🙂
 
The Partworks version is essentially an Amati offering in 140 magazine issues and it seemed too good an opportunity to re-start proceedings.
(I have the Trumpeter 1/200 version with MK1 Detail set and the Tamiya 1/350 version also.)
 
I began this afternoon by ensuring all subsequent issues and contents  were present and put aside the 1/400 Titanic for a future when I have both arms fully operational 🙂
 
So, don't know how far I can get but my best shot and it's better than casting around feeling "Disabled."
 
The Hull looks good for the time it's been in storage, some attention with filling, sanding and primer will help
The Superstructure components will be wrapped in PE
 
I'm looking forward to getting stuck in!! 
 
(A very big "Thank you" to the Gentlemen currently building the Amati version, it's given me much needed inspiration!!)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 

Here we go again, heart deadeyes from Syren Ship Model Co shop.... great dead eyes!  Standing rigging has started.

Hi and, thanks for visiting and, the likes.
Loading  skids and access steps fitted.
Instructions said to form the steps by filing 2 x 6mm strip to form an L shape.
Instead superglued 2  1mm thick strips of different width together
to form the required profile. A lot faster and, neater.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

here's some final shots, that's all folks

The additional ornament on the stern gallery was another story. As the curve was delicate, I splitted it up in 2 halves.
Next pics show my woodcurving skills are limited, less to say equal to zero
 
The decoration strips under the window are an assembly of 2 styrene strips : a half round 1,5 mm and  a 1x2mm strip

Next update : the quarterdeckgalleries. Especially the windows

....But I felt unhappy, so what do you do ?
Of course...you rip it off and start all over again.
So I took the opposite way : 2 small paper strips upon a black rail.
Much better.

For present update, I shifted my attention towards the bow section.
Decoration rails, first attempt :
 
Manaufacturing a relief-shape into a curved strip was a bit tricky, thus I avoided this roadblock by adding a black paper strip in the center....

Hi, and thanks for visiting.  Also thanks HardeeHarHar for the encouragement.
Basic jury masts made and mounted so that I can see how much room there is
to fix the blocks at the base of the masts.
These will be finished, fixed and chocked into position at a later date.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

This time I photographed the top BEFORE globbering it up with paint, more or less so I can show how I built it up using planks imitation of how the real one may have been built up. I read somewhere (probably Lees') that around about this time the Royal Navy authorized the tops to be built up in two parts, to be assembled aloft. This makes some sense, as it's basically two "leaves" with the cross-members bolted into position and pinched between the crosstrees and a set of upper sister-crosstrees. Of course I glued them because tiny bolts are not feasible. Later, I will add blackened pin-heads and "iron" (black paper) reinforcements per the original, which hopefully will make them look better, as I still do not like the white paint. I've also worked on the sprit and jib-boom, adding bees, cleats and iron banding around the cap. 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 

Any acrylic primer and paint will do. Sanding, you have to be careful. Begin with a fine grit and see how much it bites. But I must say that the supports are very sloppy placed. When I print in resin I try to place the supports where they will be as hidden as possible. At least they didn't just break them off, that would leave "dimples" on the pieces. Sand them away carefully.

Thanks for the likes and,  GP for the comments.
Samson posts made, painted and fitted.
 
Usual mix up between photo's,  plans,  parts list and timber supplied.
Went with plans and material from spares box.
 
When fitting brass pegs I try to leave as short a length out of the bottom
as I can and still provide a decent shear key.
This is because I have a big problem with drilling vertically and the shorter
the length of peg the more chance the post will sit vertically in position.
This is a bodge but with gap filling glue works quite well.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

 

Any acrylic primer and paint will do. Sanding, you have to be careful. Begin with a fine grit and see how much it bites. But I must say that the supports are very sloppy placed. When I print in resin I try to place the supports where they will be as hidden as possible. At least they didn't just break them off, that would leave "dimples" on the pieces. Sand them away carefully.

Any acrylic primer and paint will do. Sanding, you have to be careful. Begin with a fine grit and see how much it bites. But I must say that the supports are very sloppy placed. When I print in resin I try to place the supports where they will be as hidden as possible. At least they didn't just break them off, that would leave "dimples" on the pieces. Sand them away carefully.

Any acrylic primer and paint will do. Sanding, you have to be careful. Begin with a fine grit and see how much it bites. But I must say that the supports are very sloppy placed. When I print in resin I try to place the supports where they will be as hidden as possible. At least they didn't just break them off, that would leave "dimples" on the pieces. Sand them away carefully.

Pucko, thanks for the link.  I watched a few and will watch the rest.  Good info!